Do you any of guys know if Stern is going to do Elvira III this year?
Just wonder if any of you guys have any Monsters in Monster’s Lab? I did this little mod with a couple of extra pop tops on the jets. I took a wood dowle and screwed it the tops so boogiemen would fit on the dowles that way the jump when hit the jets. It works really nice and dont need any glue to hold them on.
There are always limits. So are you saying I stepped over the line? Every mod I did can be easily removed. Mods are personal touches that appeal to some and not others. Purists spit on modding and I am ok with that. My line in the sand is: The mods have to able to be easily removed if needed.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:
Dude, no! Wow, please, chill.... I even posted a pic of my also fully modded machine!!!
No worries! Mods can be a toxic discussion with some people. The lockbar and legs I airbrushed on. I just like to pass on any mod info so others can do it. Especially if it is low cost easy to do stuff that's tasteful.
Quoted from weaverj:
you want to see people get butthurt, start talking about LED's.
What do you guys think about that stadium lighting? I just picked up a Champion Pub that has it and it's stunning. It might not be what I would choose for SS though. I kind of like it on the Dark Side. I used Pinball Bulbs and Coin Taker for this game. I put one of those spinner (Coin Taker) LEDs in the TV. Looks pretty cool
Here are a pair of originals. I am in the process of restoreing these two. They are an extra set.
These are are pair I bought from someone on Ebay (can’t remember who)
I think I paid $100 for the pair.
I took my originals off so wouldn't break them. I used the ones I bought on Ebay (Apparently the Marco ones) they work fine with the dancing boogiemen option.
Quoted from per3per3:
Looking for a replacement for the large plastic shown in the pic for underneath the coffin. I'm hoping someone perhaps has an extra from parting out a full plastic set. Please PM if you have one that I could buy.
That's a tough one! Those are almost always broken.
nice job on the cabinet. Those new decals have a brighter slimyer green than the original. What mods do you have? Skull pile leds, dancing boogiemen, Glow bones, ect...
Quoted from hAbO:
Has anyone removed/replaced the inner backboard or backglass detail? I have one however I never installed it. Just wondering how difficult it is because it seems like its a decal with adhesive.
Yes and it is not nice to change. There is no special talent needed, just a lot of patients. Getting the old one off is the worst of it.
Quoted from hAbO:
That's what I was scared to hear I wonder if the freeze method would work or the opposite - heat gun on a low setting
I did use the hairdryer but it comes off bit by bit. What stinks about it is that the new one is glue on instead of a sticker. I think you just have to lump it and take your time.
Quoted from per3per3:
haven't attempted the bulletin's solution and wanted to see if anyone else has or if they implemented something different
I have done this but not to my SS. It’s a plunger to ball alignment issue. It will move the plunger to hit the ball so it will come out of the VUK smoothly
Take the glass off, set the test mode for the coffin vuk to operate toss a ball in and see how it is kicking it out then throw all three in the lock and watch them come out. Once you get the plunger aligned right the problem will disappear.
I have done a lot of the side rails. The best method I have learned is to use a hair dryer and heat up the rail to where it hurts to touch it. Then use a thin (as thin as possible) metal scraper. Do not use a plastic scraper! Go slow and gently push the scraper through the two sided tape under the rail. You can pull out slightly gently as your moving the scraper through the tape. As for the nail in rear of the trim, Just like the previous post. Heat it, push the sraper under the area with the nail and pull out gently just to raise the head of the nail. I use a small pair of vise grips. You have to turn (CC) the nail as it comes out because it is spiraled (twisted) Good Luck
Side rails vary in difficulty to remove. I have had a few that were a real PITA! The tape was really stubborn and I needed a lot of heat to get the job done. Some games like MB, CC and CP have really fragile decals and the decal will try and come off with the side rail. Those game you sometimes have to take a razor knife and cut the decal along the very bottom of the side rail so the rail will come off (with the portion of the decal that the rail is stuck to) and not disturb the cabinet decal. Once the new rail is on, it looks perfect. Some side rails almost just fall off with a little heat.
All W/B side rails use a commercial equivalent of two sided tape. It is gray instead of white. When you reinstall them you use two sided tape. The gray stuff is not nice to remove and you hope that most of it sticks to the side rail and not the cabinet. I use alcohol to remove the old stuff. Anything stronger can damage the cabinet plus you don't want to breath that stuff.
Plastic or metal? I replaced mine with a metal one. Much stronger when beat on with a large metal ball!
There was a guy here on Pinside that was making some. Maybe post a wanted ad and see if he materializes?
I really like your Light up cabinet protectors. I want to try some of those. One thing you might want to try, Put one of those spinner LEDs for the TV in back box. Cointaker has them. I have one in mine and once it gets going it looks really cool. I also put color changers in for the candle and the flash light. SS has the best back box in Pinball!
Do you think the LED green cabinet protectors would look good behind my black legs?
Yes. It’s called spider multiball. It is very difficult to be “Spider Champion” (get everything on the wheel).
I have mine set up a bit harder. You have to hit it up the BB ramp twice to get the lock. You have to hit the crate twice as many times as default to get Crate Multiball. The rest are the same. Look at the difficulty table in the manual. It will explain how much has to be done to get each tale. SS has some really hard things to get so I can't understand how people always seem to say it is too easy. I can play SS just to try for spider champion. And lets see how many times you can get into the Secret Passage in three balls! Getting Double Jackpot isn't really easy either.
Ohhho Now if you think I am going to spoil it for you... Think again You have to find it.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
I just got gr secret passage on a throw away game today. My second one in a month! But you can’t hit it on purpose. It’s like the SIM card shot on dialed in. Just pure luck.
It's strange my wife hits it all the time. I should start calling her weak shot sally. The other game that has a prize for a weak shot up the left orbit is Cirqus Voltaire with the Juggler Sneaky Lock. Both of those shots are a "Hole In One" in my Pin Golf course!
Quoted from Marcbud:
icked up a Scared Stiff recently and have joined the club! My 3 year old grandson Jack was very happy and is telling everyone that “Baba bought me a pinball machine!” That is true enough, I guess.
The cabinet and playing field were in fantastic shape, and the game itself
played very well. I thought the flippers were a bit weak, a light or two was out, and the flipper rubber showed wear. The electronic test report showed EOS Right Error. Also, the sensitivity on the crate hit shot seemed off, it would not register some direct hits.
Being an Electrical Engineer by trade who loves to tinker, I planned for several upgrades, LED Lights, adding a ColorDMD, and a flipper rebuild kit among several other squeaks. Boogie Man Mod using 3D printed parts will follow.
Congrats on your new game. Sounds like you are jumping in with both feet! Those original Eddy boards have to be tweaked every so often. Pinbits has the Auto Eddy boards where no tweaking needed. ColorDMD and Prosound are no brainer mods for this title. My game has the dancing boogiemen, Skull Pile LEDs and the glow bones set. Those were the factory mods that were discontinued (for cost) I also recommend the glow in the dark rubbers. Good luck
Yes I have gone with Pinball ProSound (Pinball Pro) It is a speaker kit with a sub woofer. All my games have this kit and it brings pinball to a whole new level for me.
Yep that effect is cool. I have a color changer from Cointaker there. I also recommend a spinner LED (Cointaker) for TV. It looks cool. You have a nice HUO example there. Mine is also HUO. I paid $2995 for it in o4. I wanted a nice one then because there were few parts available for it at that time. Mine also has the prototype shooter rod. The cabinet art feels very different than a restored one with decals. It almost feels like the art was painted on. I used the dreaded clear cabinet protectors on this game and they look invisible. (dreaded because they were made from a different plastic that was very brittle so if the cabinet wasn't perfectly square on the corners they would crack and break like glass)
The other thing I did. Since it was an HUO game I didn't want to replace the side rails. So I just elongated the holes a little bit on the green rails and installed them over the originals. They fit so tight and matched up so well that if you didn't know that they were installed over the originals you wouldn't notice it.
The whole point of (capping) the rails was not to permanently alter an HUO game. All my armor can come right off in 5 minutes and back to original. Side rails can really be a PITA to get off without disturbing the artwork sometimes. It can be a sizeable risk to an HUO low play machine. If I ever wanted to sell the game it would be appealing to a more traditional buyer with the original look. And yes, I agree with you, stainless just doesn't do it for this title.
Now all you need are some of the rubber boogiemen. Ebay used to have a nice selection.
Any of you guys that haven't done the Black Out mod (Pinbits) on SS, should consider it. It blacks out the GI in the BB when the PF GI goes out. That means that when you spin the spider your doing it in the dark. Very Cool! And a bit more challenging. Also on summation (Game Over) when the flashers are on the Monsters/Wolves Eyes are very bright. Well worth the $35.
Quoted from mrf_pa:
I need to replace a couple of bulbs in the backbox behind the floating plastic islands (where the TV is), silly question, but, is there a recommended way to remove the floating plastics to minimize the potential for cracking the plastic?
The I do it is I press the two little ears that (keep the plastic from coming off the post) then gently pull up on the plastic. If it is the two post plastic then just turn it so you can remove the bulb, that way you don't have to remove the other post.
Quoted from MrNanaba:
Tonight when I played a couple quick games during one game it suddenly gave me a second ball in play - with no multi ball activated.
Wow dude just noticed you are from Gurnee! My dad was born there. My grandpa built his house on Stern School Road. It was demolished to build Great America. Anyway...
I had a friend over yesterday and My Game did that add a ball too. At the end it gave me a switch error 67. Turns out switch (67 Right Ramp) it's that one leaf switch that is right at the beginning of the right ramp with the rubber. The switch just activates a buzzing noise that compliments the Monsters Lab Popps electricity noises. It was stuck closed. That made the game do some weird stuff like releasing all the locked balls, optos for the right ramp not work sometimes and some other stuff. It seems like it messes with the opto board. SS is a sensitive game. It seems to freak out on little malfunctions and power surges!
Quoted from pin-pimp:
i made my own boogie man extensions out of aluminum on my cnc mill, really came out nice and work good. did some out of plastic but they didnt hold up.
It's nice that you guys can do those for folks. It really is a must have for SS. I am sure there lots of people that would love to have a set of those.
I see you made your choice! Welcome! Feel free to pm me if you have any questions. Your gonna love it! Your game looks Awesome!
Color DMD, Pinball Prosound speaker upgrade or a Polk Audio psw10 subwoofer. The slimy game blades look awesom. Dancing boogiemen mod is a must also. The Skull topper is pretty inexpensive and easy to build.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:
How necessary is an LED OCD board in this thing
It depends on what you like for your GI. WPC games typically will strobe or black out the GI for certain modes or achievements. The OCD board may interfere with that. I like the strobing of the GI on games like SS, MB, CV and CP. That strobing of the GI can be intensified by adding spotlights (tied to the GI) above the slings aimed at the PF. Dark games like MB can really be cool during MOSH Pit when the strobing of the GI happens. I didn't utilize the spots on my SS because I like SS somewhat dark. So to answer your question: Not as necessary as the black out mod! IMHO
That is Awesome! Thanks for the info.
Here is one for ya to try. Get Double Trouble on the spider wheel, Now lock a ball, Then hit the Skill Shot. The Game will sound the noise that you get when you hit Secret Passage and will give you a Super Skill Shot! Pretty cool! I did this the other night for the first time.
Quoted from tonedef131:
I picked up a Scared Stiff a week ago and have it running perfectly except for the Spider Hole kickout. I've tinkered with it for hours and nothing I do seems to get it to kick out consistently. The first thing I did was tighten up the coil, which seemed to help a bit but eventually went back into it's cycle of rejection. I then started playing with the angle of the bracket, installed one washer, then two washers, then bending...nothing improved. Since then I have installed a completely new popper weldment, no change. I then bought the ramp repair kit and installed the top bracket, which does keep them from flying out the top and onto the playfield, but did nothing for consistent kicks. I swapped back to the original weldment last night, inspected every single part involved on the lower playfield, measured for straightness of the bracket and nothing appears to be wrong and everything is snug and straight.
I'm at a complete loss here, if this thing is actually this sensitive I cannot be the only one that has problems with it. Does anyone have any tips? I have not installed the rest of the ramp kit because I don't think the game needs it but if people found that helped I will pull the ramp.
Do you know what ramp you have? Do you have the new thicker one? Take a look at the where the ball hits the flap. Make sure it is not hitting the edge of the ramp hole. look at the steel strap over the hole make sure that the ball allows for enough clearance so the flap can close. Sometimes that strap is too close to the ramp and the flap hangs up on it or the ball won't make it all the way through to get it closed. If all of that is ok, it most likely is the angle is off just a bit.
Quoted from calfdemon:
I just bought Scared Stiff and arranged and paid for the shipping today. Coming from Virginia to California and I will have it in about 2 weeks (getting picked up next Wednesday). Looking forward to this pin and already buying plenty of mods for it. The pin I bought is in very nice shape and 100% working supposedly. Looks good in all the videos I got. So should be able to play it upon arrival with minimal work.
Anyway, cant wait! It will sit between my WOZRR and JD.
Congrats! I have had my game since 06. Still love playing it. I am just now finding out that you can combine certain items on the Spider Wheel with Jackpots and Skill Shots to get special bonuses like Extra Ball and a Super Skill Shot. You would think that after 13 years I would have see/done it all with this title but that is not the case with me.
Quoted from wallybgood:
Hey SS Guys
The opto board wiring is not available in the SS manual. So when when putting together my SS ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/there-s-one-more-scared-stiff) had to check an original and make notes. Hope that it helps if you are ever troubleshooting this board.
Thanks Wally! These notes are burned in to the owner thread now for reference. Feel free to share anything else you have encountered on your SS journey.
Another good thing to do for the crate is change from the plastic crate to the metal one. The metal one is bullet proof! You can't tell the difference by looking at it so no one will ever tell it is the metal one by looking at it.
Quoted from epthegeek:
Are the micro repros good on all the hole sizes/placements/markings and quality? Or should I focus on looking for a fixed up original/fixing he one I have?
My personal opinion is fix the original if it has good inserts and low wear otherwise. I did a monster Bash Mosh Pit Hole and it turned out great! I installed a Mantis protector and then repaired the hole with the Mantis as a guide. I used a wood colored Epoxy and then painted the inside edges with a wood color tan paint and air brush. Anyone can do it it's simple to do. I will see if I have some pics.
I am completely confused by this write up. (maybe I am the only one) I will pick just one: The Boogieman mode is switch based? Hmmm... The boogieman mode on my game uses the holes to gain Boogieman points. (You hit the ball into as many holes as you can which takes out the Boogiemen) If you get lots of Boogieman points Elvira has a really special message for you when it's over.
Quoted from JamesUK:
Hey whthrs166 - the hole does increase the value per switch, but the switch is what actually scores the points... so you get 15k I believe it is per switch up by 5k per switch depending on which sink hole you go into...
What else didn't you understand - or more to the point, did my writing fail to deliver on?
OK here is what I am having trouble with on your write up. It does not matter about the switch actually scoring the points. (that's a technicality) Hitting the ball into the holes is what you have to do to get the prize. It kills off the Boogiemen. Look at the display when you hit it in there! You want your reader to understand how the game is played when they read your article by seeing what you think is wonderful about the game play. When you say it is switch based you mislead the reader (at least you did with me) by thinking that all you do is hit switches. That my two cents worth. Maybe some others can read it and chime in.
Looks Awesome! Did you use a green LED strip under the apron behind the flippers?
Alright James, I am locked and loaded! A couple things: Don't refer to the top lane switches as roll overs. Rollovers in pinball are very different. Rollovers are spring loaded buttons that are found on a playfield. Yes it might be a bit picky, but it does mislead the reader into thinking there are buttons up there. I don't think you accurately described the music for SS. You used the phrase "General Loop Backround Music". Scared Stiff has 6 Main Theme Tunes. That's a lot for a pinball game! I really like how you can progressively change the Main Theme Tune as you achieve your goals on the Six Tales Of Terror for Scared Stiff. I Become very board of the same old theme music playing on and on and on as you play on other machines. The only way to get away from that theme music is to change the mode. No so on Scared Stiff. In your write up you complain about The Dead Head jokes she tells when you hit the DH switches. OK I get it, it's your opinion but that is a very large part of Elvira and her TV show. She was that Jokester and yes some of the jokes weren't "Knee Slappers" but that was her Gig Man! So You might leave out the complaint. (just my opinion) OK Lastly, (and this is biggy) You left out some real important game play aspects. 1. Secret Passage. Secret Passage is one of the hardest shots in pinball. So much so that you can't purposely make it. It's a "God Shot" If you shoot Secret Passage you get a Tale. The first shot is Coffin. If you shoot it twice you get the next Tale clockwise on the wheel and so on. The best I have ever done is three. 2. Spider Champion. To get Spider Champion you have to get everything on the wheel. Then you get Spider Multiball. Very Difficult! I have never done it. These two Put Scared Stiff ahead of Monster Bash for difficulty. (in my opinion) If there is anything I can't stand it's someone that says SS is too easy and never achieved these two.
Love the haunted house Arcade! Very Cool! Yeah I used those pinblades too. They do match well the slimy armor. Nice Job!
Quoted from BobC:
I need to replace my crate door decal (actually I also have a full metal crate / door and decals if needed),
but I was looking at the playfield and I think I might have to remove the whole assembly from underneath?
I looked at the manual diagram and it really wasn't helpful.
Can I get a brief walkthrough?
Also... What's the deal with shooter rod springs? I put in white ones which are supposed to be the correct strength (?),
and after a short while it lacks the power to hit the crate.
Brown which I believe is the next step up makes it very difficult to get the spider hole skill shot.
I can't figure out why I can't get mine to plunge like other SS's.
I've even tried modifying springs.
I guess just use a brown spring and wait for it to fatigue?
I have the silver one in mine. Never had a problem. Make sure that your plunger isn't hitting your auto launch mech. I have had this issue with other Williams/Bally games that I have that have manual plunger with auto launch. (Cactus Canyon, No Good Gofers)
I thought I would share with you guys something I bought at Expo this year.
This little mod is pretty neat and the people I bought it from are Pinball Inc. They make these and say they have the license to do so. I hadn’t heard of them before (nothing new) and hadn’t seen these anywhere else for sale. They only had one left at the show when I got there.
The Stiff glows when The Coffin Tale is lit.
It is subtle (glow) but really looks cool when you play in the dark. Price was $59.99.
Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:
Mine is Brighter and the graphics are not Blurry like the one in the picture shown. I suspect that these new ones that are available started out as a Scan of the Original printed version......
The pic is a bit blurry because it is a phone camera. Thanks.
Quoted from Kenz:
I have this mod but it doesn’t work. Can you show me what it’s connected to?
It just connects to the Coffin Tale Bulb holder under the play field. The connection is most likely polarized so if it is connected backwards it wont work. Also the mod has a ribbon cable. Make sure that cable is not broken with a continuity test.
Quoted from calfdemon:
Just to update this, I went to their site and tried to buy it (it is listed and sale went through). They refunded my payment and said this product is no longer available. So you must have gotten one from their final batch.
Wow yeah he must have sold out. Thanks for posting that.
Quoted from wayinla:
I bought a Mantis spider hole protector and it was a very tight fit. They cut it to allow for some adjustment but it was still tight and required a bit of gentle persuasion with a hammer. Finally got it in but it appeared to alter the ball trajectory form the VUK, causing it not to get up to the ramp. Has anyone had this same issue? Took it off and there were no problems.
The geometry of the VUK to the ramp flap is very touchy. Try tweaking (bending) the angle of the VUK just a bit either way checking how it fires each time. You can usually dial it in after a few tries. This adjustment is so touchy that I have had to adjust it after leveling a game.
You can manually trigger it in test/ solenoids. The game does it with the mode change from Dead Heads to Lab.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:
Now, the flasher bulbs behind scared stiff and eyes on upper right dont come on. are they only in game play, or should they work in attract mode?
If you mean the Big Hairy Monster (upper right) and or the Wolf (lower left) those are separate flashers. You can test them in Test Mode/Flashers/
Quoted from dnaman:
Is this supposed to solve the kick up problem or help protect the ramp and spine?
That metal arch keeps the ball from flying off the ramp and adds strength when it kicks out of the VUK. The geometry of the that ramp VUK is really touchy! The best way to get your VUK to operate between 95 and 100% (because that is about the best you can get) is to tweak the angle of the VUK (providing your VUK and ramp are installed correctly) just a bit either way to get it to fire correctly. It takes some patients but persistence will pay off.
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