Dude, what an awesome easter egg. I love it - had no clue about that!

Wont be long now....Finally will be in the club!!!!

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Interested in any responses. Every supplier I have check shows out of stock including all the overseas guys.

All right guys, I finally got my Scared Stiff today! I noticed that once the coffin opens for MB, it stays open, and the rod that kicks the door open doesn't retract when turned off, leading me to believe it's mechanical, and I am willing to bet that coil sleeve has NEVER been changed.

This looks like a pretty thorough job to get to that sleeve. Are there any writeups anywhere on how to disassemble this area?

Also, how are the frogs held in? I have some hexnuts with - no joke - some bolts that were sawed in half to hold the nuts in place. I anticipate the frog's rods underneath the PF are held in place with hexnuts that are locked down by means of 10-32 x 1/4" set screws?

Nicely done. My frogs have this craziness in place.

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Well, I went ahead and made my own Skull Pile Mod. I took my time doing this as the online instructions were a lil' tricky to get the hang of at first. All in all, this makes the game REALLY pop.

The second video gives a bit more detail on the background and how to do it yourself. I did this on a whim, and really didn't expect to go this deeply into it, but I figured what the heck - might as well. If you want more detail on how to do it yourself, let me know!

I was able to go about 5 days, a record for me in terms of waiting, before I ordered a ColorDMD tonight. Couldn't go any longer. This monocolor DMD has to go....!

Check to see if you are getting 20V from pin 6 of J133.

Put it in flasher test mode, and pick one of the flashers that is not lighting up. You getting any voltage reading there?

If you are getting 20V at the pin but not those flashers, I suspect you have a broken connection from the pint to the flashers affected. It may be a daisy chain connection that starts at the flashers closest to the PCB responsible for delivering the power to the flashers, and if that one connection is broken as a daisy chain, none of the others will work.

Check to make sure the wiring is intact at the spades for the flashers. Consult the manual to see the wire I am talking about. It goes to all 4 affected lights.

Well, I finally took the time to replace the crate decal tonight. I searched and scoured Pinside, and I could not find a single thread or post on how to take it apart, so I dived in and did it. This was SUPER easy.

First, you have to go about getting the crate top off. Easy peasy - (2) philip head screws, and it comes right off.

Next, unplug the LED "crate eyes" pcb, and unscrew the additional (2) philip head screws. Then, remove the pcb from the game.

Now, you will see that the crate door is held on by a rod, which is held in place by an e-clip on each side. I chose to stand on the left side of the game, take my smallest microdriver/jeweler's flat head driver, and GENTLY pry at it. I had my index finger directly on the flat head blade (same index finger as the hand holding the micro driver), and the other hand's thumb behind the e-clip so it couldn't go "PEEEEEEEEEEEWWWW!" out and across the room, never to be seen again.

Once (1) of the e-clips is removed, you can slide the rod out. You'll note a spring that the rod goes through. The spring opens out and away from the crate door. Think of it like a gator's mouth...the gator's mouth is opening AWAY from the crate door. Remember that configuration when you re-assemble.

With the rod completely out, you can now remove the crate door entirely from the game.

This is how mine looked before I took it out of the game.

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You can see how worn away my decal was. Well, as I removed the decal, there was actually ANOTHER ONE underneath it. I was blown away. Why are people so fucking lazy???? If you have taken that much time to get the crate door out, WHY would you put a decal directly over another?!?!?!?!

Anyways...I got my trust Goo Gone out, poured a tiny bit over the entire label, got my wire brush and began scrubbing. I lathered, rinsed, and repeated these steps for about ten minutes until all the residue from both decals was gone, and the crate door was perfectly smooth and clean. I then washed it off, rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and let it air dry.

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Once ready, I took my new decal from PPS and lined it up with the top and left side. I peeled the decal slowly and rubbed it flat with my finger as I went until the entire decal was now on the crate door, and I rubbed and rubbed to ensure all air bubbles were gone.

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Then I took this fine product from Fellowes (product #: CRC52215)

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This stuff is like mylar, but MUCH more forgiving and can be moved around multiple times/ more trial-and-error.

I cut a piece too big and placed it over the crate decal.

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I then laid the crate door upside down so the inside of the door was facing me, and I cut the excess vinyl off with a box-cutter/razor blade. Any remaining edges were gently melted away with a butane torch at the lowest setting and the flame pointing parallel to the decal so only the vinyl edge would melt and become flush with the door.

Now ready for re-assembly:

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The game was then re-assembled and tested before cleaning the glass and putting it back over the game. When putting the e-clip back on, I put the e-clip teeth up against the rod, and i placed my flathead's blade flat and flush against the body of the e-clip. That way, the whole blade body was pushing against the e-clip to get it back on the rod. If you try to do that with just the edge of the blade, the blade edge will almost always slip, the the flathead will go wild and the e-clip will prolly fly to the moon....just words of advice from me to use the whole blade body of your flathead scredriver and NOT just the corner of the blade.

Whew, SO much better : ).

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I have actually - I put it in my pop bumper area when I did the PF swap on AFM as well as the SOL hole, the FILM insert on CFTBL as well as the Move your Car Lane in that game. When doing it on a PF, it is best to have a flat card (like a credit card) ready, lay the vinyl down slowly and press it down with the credit card and rub it with the edge over and over as you to go to get out as many air bubbles as possible. You'll practically won't even notice that it is there!

Here are two pictures of it on the pop bumper area of AFM as I did the PF swap. You can just barely see the edges if you look closely enough.

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You mean this one.... : )?
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If you need JUST the frogs....

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=04-10510.1

I bought 5 of them, and they are 100% identical to the stock ones.

Might have to make your own with the frogs at Action pinball. I can use my vernier calipers get the thickness and measure the length of them if need be.

Mine is LED'd, and I dont feel like those are necessities. YMMV

Because I randomly feel like being nice, here are the wire combinations to get the Skull Pile LED mod going if you DIY.

This was specific to my game, and I anticipate this should be universal across all SS.

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Thank you for that! Ordered 4 of each part - can't hurt to have a spare of both the ring and the "jacob's ladder" part. Just in case....

I'm considering selling mine when i return from my deployment. ColorDMD, skull pile mod, and a shitload of work I performed to get 100%. Replaced crate decal and placed clear vinyl over it to keep it looking 100% clean for a long time.

Tell your friends. I'll be back home January 2020.

Roll over switch in the left orbital before the ball gets to the Deadheads.

Find the online manual at ipdb.org and determine if it is a particular row or column. I had this exact problem on a Johnny Mnemonic, and it ended up being a bad connection for one of the pin connection on the power driver board.

Flashers: gameplay only.

Eyes...do you mean the skull pile? If so, gameplay as well.

Prolly an LED strip