Well, I finally took the time to replace the crate decal tonight. I searched and scoured Pinside, and I could not find a single thread or post on how to take it apart, so I dived in and did it. This was SUPER easy.
First, you have to go about getting the crate top off. Easy peasy - (2) philip head screws, and it comes right off.
Next, unplug the LED "crate eyes" pcb, and unscrew the additional (2) philip head screws. Then, remove the pcb from the game.
Now, you will see that the crate door is held on by a rod, which is held in place by an e-clip on each side. I chose to stand on the left side of the game, take my smallest microdriver/jeweler's flat head driver, and GENTLY pry at it. I had my index finger directly on the flat head blade (same index finger as the hand holding the micro driver), and the other hand's thumb behind the e-clip so it couldn't go "PEEEEEEEEEEEWWWW!" out and across the room, never to be seen again.
Once (1) of the e-clips is removed, you can slide the rod out. You'll note a spring that the rod goes through. The spring opens out and away from the crate door. Think of it like a gator's mouth...the gator's mouth is opening AWAY from the crate door. Remember that configuration when you re-assemble.
With the rod completely out, you can now remove the crate door entirely from the game.
This is how mine looked before I took it out of the game.
You can see how worn away my decal was. Well, as I removed the decal, there was actually ANOTHER ONE underneath it. I was blown away. Why are people so fucking lazy???? If you have taken that much time to get the crate door out, WHY would you put a decal directly over another?!?!?!?!
Anyways...I got my trust Goo Gone out, poured a tiny bit over the entire label, got my wire brush and began scrubbing. I lathered, rinsed, and repeated these steps for about ten minutes until all the residue from both decals was gone, and the crate door was perfectly smooth and clean. I then washed it off, rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and let it air dry.
Once ready, I took my new decal from PPS and lined it up with the top and left side. I peeled the decal slowly and rubbed it flat with my finger as I went until the entire decal was now on the crate door, and I rubbed and rubbed to ensure all air bubbles were gone.
Then I took this fine product from Fellowes (product #: CRC52215)
This stuff is like mylar, but MUCH more forgiving and can be moved around multiple times/ more trial-and-error.
I cut a piece too big and placed it over the crate decal.
I then laid the crate door upside down so the inside of the door was facing me, and I cut the excess vinyl off with a box-cutter/razor blade. Any remaining edges were gently melted away with a butane torch at the lowest setting and the flame pointing parallel to the decal so only the vinyl edge would melt and become flush with the door.
Now ready for re-assembly:
The game was then re-assembled and tested before cleaning the glass and putting it back over the game. When putting the e-clip back on, I put the e-clip teeth up against the rod, and i placed my flathead's blade flat and flush against the body of the e-clip. That way, the whole blade body was pushing against the e-clip to get it back on the rod. If you try to do that with just the edge of the blade, the blade edge will almost always slip, the the flathead will go wild and the e-clip will prolly fly to the moon....just words of advice from me to use the whole blade body of your flathead scredriver and NOT just the corner of the blade.
Whew, SO much better : ).
20190411_223002 (resized).jpg 20190411_222601 (resized).jpg