Scared Stiff
Bally, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mrnanaba.
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Hi. Fairly new owner of A Scared Stiff machine about a year. Recently have been wondering about maintenance of the machine. One thing I've been looking at are the rubber bumpers around the outlanes. Wondering if this looks normal see pictures. Seems like the rubbers that span two or three posts should be individual rings vs one over several. Any guidance would be a help. Loving the game!
Quoted from bigd1979:They are supposed to be individual but the way it is works and really wont change anything . Your really sld clean them and the playfield tho...
Yes it needs a good cleaning and possible tuneup. The ball gets stuck on several of the lane switches even when ejecting from the coffin and up by the deadheads. When ejecting from the spider hole it sometimes fails to go into the beast and rolls toward the middle drain or it will get stuck in the metal flap of the entry to the beast. And most concerning, but I got it this way, the play field is peeled/pitted under the numbers of the stiff meter that I'm trying to figure out what to do (see pic). Any thoughts? I may be looking for a local expert soon.
Quoted from Reality_Studio:I had that happen on my Who Dunnit. The connector going from the dmd to the board in the head was just dirty. Unplugging it, cleaning the connector and putting it back fixed it.
I turned it off and disconnected one of the cables to the dmd and shot some air and the connection points. So far so good. Looks like it’s time for a dusting in there. Thanks for the tip.
Hi all. My DMD is dead I think...just looking for some reassurance I’m not missing something. It’s dead as in there are no dot lights at all - completely black. A few games before it went dark it was doing a partial display.
Sine it has gone dark I’ve tried removing cables/ribbons to the board and reattaching, cleaning the area of dust, looking for any disconnects - with no success. Game still plays fine and registers score and progress with all call outs. Which leads me to believe the DMD died.
The one thing I noticed and am questioning is this board that looks to attach to the DMD. The top right area with the “white” part seems slightly burnt and after leaving the game on it gets hot to the touch - is this normal and/or can this cause the DMD to not display?
Thanks for any suggestions.
C7796932-B826-4FE5-A366-815D8ADC8FDA (resized).jpegD1639070-8E32-4562-95BF-F73CB05DDAC6 (resized).jpegThe four fuses in the pic looked to be intact. I’ll keep looking around for other stuff...yes I think the color DMD will be the way to go. Now to research that...then explain to my wife who is always thrilled when stuff happens.
Thanks for the reply and explanation on the fire resistors.
Quoted from BioBa:Don't buy a new DMD before you have checked out your board first! Can you swap your DMD with one from a different machine? Had the same issue. Turned out faulty board component. $50 repair bill vs.new DMD which would not have worked anyway.
Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:This. Also, check your voltages while you have the multimeter out. That could be another source of failure.
Quoted from Marcbud:Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.
That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!
Grabbed a basic multimeter...
On either of these is there a guide to help know how to test the boards and voltage?
I found fuse f113 out on the power board. I switched it with the same fuse that controlled the flippers it didn’t resolve my DMD issue...so something else to understand.
Quoted from MrNanaba:Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.
Got home. Realized I don’t have a basic extra DMD and don’t think the one in AC/DC looks compatible and if was not sure I’d want to pull that one out.
Looking more and more like a color upgrade is coming...even if I do find something wrong elsewhere.
Quoted from Marcbud:I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore. This "might" get around your current issue. https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF
Think I’m going to go the color DMD route....difference on LED vs LCD...and do both options connect the same?
Quoted from neverahighscore:LCD is an excellent choice for this game. Graphics look very sharp. You will be very pleased!
[quoted image]
Went with LCD. Looks great and all is working. Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions.
Next up - I grabbed a 1.5 ROM chip. Just a bit nervous on pulling a chip off the board the 1st time so want to make absolutely sure I switching the right one. How do I know/identify the chip to swap?
6A5A84DC-1A05-4AA4-8602-11AAD3B463FF (resized).jpegRunning into two issues which have been bugging me for awhile:
1. Fuse F113 keeps blowing. I think this just lights the spider hole and th ramps. Can’t find any loose or touching connections.
2. When crate multi ball starts, occasionally, the crate jackpot stops and it’s like playing the machine in ‘regular’ mode with two balls.
Any suggestions.
Quoted from Marcbud:1) Strange, but I had a problem with that exact fuse blowing. This is the power to the string of lights with the white-orange wiring, light around the bottom of the table, the bottom bumpers and the rail that feeds the outlanes to the flippers. This drove me crazy and I tracked it down to a short in one of the bulb sockets, the ones used in production are not very good quality. Finding the right socket is a PITA. With the fuse out and power off, I used a multimeter in continuity mode (it beeps when a short is detected) and took all the lights out. I then wiggled them one one at a time adding a burnt out bulb until I heard the beep. New sockets are < $2 at pinball life, but you will need to solder to remove the old one and put the new one in.
2) The only reason that I can think that this would happen is that the table "thinks" that you have lost one of the balls, likely due to a faulty sensor, does this only happen for Terror from the Crate? What about Stiff in the Coffin? Has the table ever acted like you lost a ball in normal play when you had not?
1. That’s for the suggestion, I’ll have to find the time to try and track down a short along that wire.
2. Haven’t ever noticed the Coffin multiball cancelling out with more than 1 ball in play. I agree with the sensor idea. Tonight when I played a couple quick games during one game it suddenly gave me a second ball in play - with no multi ball activated.
Thanks for the ideas...now just have to find the time to do the work.
Quoted from whthrs166:Wow dude just noticed you are from Gurnee! My dad was born there. My grandpa built his house on Stern School Road. It was demolished to build Great America. Anyway...
Drive by Six Flags twice a day almost everyday. I’ll put checking that switch on my list.
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Gurnee, IL