Hey SS members - I need some help. My original slingshot plastics are repaired and I can't find a suitable replacement. Here is the problem: The originals allow for the dancing boogie man mod while the replacements are narrower between the feet. If I Dremel out the replacement to accommodate they look a little funny. I've have tried two different aftermarket SS slingshots plastics and didn't like or use them for that reason. Who sells a good set that will work with this mod? Thanks in advance.

Thanks whthrs166 - I'll give it a try. I hope the 3rd time is the charm. I hate wasting funds on subpar replacements.

There isn't a board. It is a cable harness with LEDs installed. Same story with the candle flames. You can buy it here:

http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/SS_Page.html

Does the area have the flashers installed? You might need that also.

That is funny. See that hole with nothing in it closer to the back side of the Boney Beast. That is where red flasher goes. Please see photo:

The remaining holes is where the flasher should be that backlights the skull pile. I don't think the blue doom is part of the assembly.

SS PF (resized).png

So if you buy the skull pile, LED eyes and the candle flames you should be good to go. Just have to move a few things around.

I think what you are referring to are the large white fire resistors on your board. Those get hot by design. That is why they are in the white material. It allows some to heat to dissipate without bursting into flames. Looks like you need a new DMD. I would suggest just biting the bullet and getting a color one from Color DMD. They are the bomb.

Did you check all your fuses? Just wanted to make sure it wasn't something simple.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5671-12731-00

and

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5163-14114-00

Paint them yourself. Bone is super easy to paint. It is a dry brush technique. There are YouTube videos on how to do it.

Probably some previous owner’s inventory system. It was part of a fleet or something. I got an Haunted House from a movie studio and it has a prop department tag on it with a number. Same type of thing.

I have games that needed the LED OCD board. In my opinion, SS isn't one of them. Comet LEDs are the way to go but not the "retro" ones (not enough light). I would go with 2SMD bulbs in sunlight for your GI and then color match your inserts. Do the ghost busters ones for your inserts. It will look great. The only down side is you will loose the "dimming effect" by not having the LED OCD board.

I have a problem with my first generation Boney Beast Real Eyes mod made by F-2NIRO. I wrote him but he hasn't responded yet. I was wondering if anyone else is having the issue? The problem is one or both of the eyes locks up or drops color after about 10 minutes of game time. They have always been flaky but I really like the look. Anyway, I got tired of it and pulled out my modified head (the original is now installed). The eyes are basically digital camera screens. This got me thinking. Digital cameras usually run on a single battery. That battery is usually 3.2 to 3.6 volts. I'm testing my theory now. I have the modified snake head on my shop power supply set for 3.5 volts DC and it is working perfectly for several hours now. I believe the 6 volts generated by the pinball machine is out of specs for these screens. A simple solution to this problem (if true) would be to add a DC to DC convertor into the wire harness (like a $2 part on eBay). Anyway - Just curious if anyone else is have an issue and / or cares about this possible fix. If so, I can post my findings.

20191111_195946 (resized).jpg

Just an update on my Boney Beast Real Eyes mod. F-2NIRO has reached out to me and wants me to test a few things for him and report back (input and output voltages on his board). He informs me that his mod does trim the voltage down to the correct level. I’ll make another post when I know more. The onboard voltage regulation may have failed.

That is one of my symptoms also. I’m still working on a fix. Out of the game everything works great. The problem might be electrical noise on the game’s wire harness. I’m considering a dc power converter plugged directly into the ac service plug of the game.

I have figured out what is wrong with my Boney Beast Real Eyes mod. The unit works perfectly on my test bench when given clean 5.5 - 7 DC volt power. When installed in the pinball machine on a 6 volt DC circuit it fails after 10 minutes or so. So, what's the difference? The only thing I can come up with is noise on the game's wiring hardness. When features get activated or stop it causes small power fluctuations on the wire harness which seems to negatively impact this mod. On my game the attract mode will even cause the failure. To duplicated the test I hooked my snake head back to my test beach and increased and decreased voltage rapidly by .25 of a volt and got it fail rather quickly. The dips and spikes are still within the hardware's specs but it seems unable to handle the variances. The mod's creator has suggested that I find a different source of power in the game and try that. There might be a more stable 6 volt DC circuit (I was using the recommended one going to the crate) but a sure thing would be plugging a 6 volt DC convertor into the service plug of the pin and using that. The service plug has it's own problem because it is always on. It would need to be modify to turn off (which is fairly easy) or you would need to plug in the DC convertor when the game is being used (and unplug when not in use). For me personally, I think I'm over this mod. While it wasn't working I got use to the OEM snake head again. The "real eyes" look cool but knowing how many balls are locked seems to out weigh the coolness.

Did Bally actually make one? I thought they were all aftermarket.

Lexan washers are the easy fix. A better fix is to cut out and shape a peice of Lexan and pop rivet into place. Here is a photo of that type of repair on another ramp. I use a demel to shape the Lexan and then drill 1/8" holes on both sides of the patch and ramp (these are for the pop rivets). Drill a larger hole in the patch for the ramp mounting screw and your done.

20210123_102033 (resized).jpg

Why do you need one? Those are super easy to fix if there is a problem. Usually they just need the solder re-flowed and you are good to go.

Are you talking about the flashers with the red lenses? Why not use red LEDs? That’s what I use.

An opto in the trough is bad or there is an extra ball in the game. Switch test should point you to the culprit.

Why does Elvira have wings? This sculpt is done well but always confused me. Elvira isn't a vampire.

Most resets are caused by two things. A drop in 5 volt power from a failing driver board or flaky pins. Sounds like you have a pin issue. Any connections look toasty? They might just be fatigued too. I would replace anything that looks suspicious.

Isn't that product only coated on one side? I think it is. I also think the coated side is the topside. That's why you need to use ammonia free products when cleaning your glass. Let the leapers fly as designed.