So who makes the best skull pile mod? I'd like to have the eyes lit on the skulls.
I'm ordering the sling kickers for the boogie men. ColorDMD will come soon.
Any other tasteful mods that I should have?
Quoted from djblouw:Any other tasteful mods that I should have?
I like the interactive glowing bloody eyeballs.....
Quoted from spfxted:I like the interactive glowing bloody eyeballs.....
[quoted image]
That looks interesting. But probably a bit much for me.
My game is bone stock original (with an amazing original pf). The crate door decal is barely worn, but I am replacing it to make it perfect.
Today is my SS’s 25th birthday, according to the tag on the back:
FF946FAB-7F57-4599-AC43-B61C986AC335 (resized).jpeg
When I got it, it had been in the same home for almost 20 years. It obviously didn’t spend much time on location. But it also didn’t receive much maintenance either. Here is how I got it:
74A4D831-A75A-46A2-8986-096D1BBB6518 (resized).jpeg
I spent some time taking everything off the pf, cleaning it all, and updating. It now shines and is a blast to play.20E199C1-615E-4368-BEF3-D3FEDCC40782 (resized).jpeg
2860CEEA-6DDA-4744-B684-13CC6D828E69 (resized).jpeg
D1F5AB4D-D240-49D0-A8BC-3CA5D09923CC (resized).jpeg
6EAE9AF6-8EA9-40E2-84ED-CD0E24029CC3 (resized).jpeg
Happy Birthday!!
Quoted from jake35:What's a early HEP protoype SS worth? Game is pristine.
Pics, How old is restoration.
Quoted from jake35:What's a early HEP protoype SS worth? Game is pristine.
There was 2 recent sales for $12,500 and $10,000 in excellent condition which is kind of crazy but not sure if prototype adds any value. Is the only difference is that one of the stiffometer is different?
Quoted from Don44:There was 2 recent sales for $12,500 and $10,000 in excellent condition which is kind of crazy but not sure if prototype adds any value. Is the only difference is that one of the stiffometer is different?
it also has red boards, a few other minor differences to plastics etc.
Quoted from Don44:There was 2 recent sales for $12,500 and $10,000 in excellent condition which is kind of crazy but not sure if prototype adds any value. Is the only difference is that one of the stiffometer is different?
Some inserts are different also, spider hole among others.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:Having a real weird opto problem on switches 37-left (crate) kickout and 42-middle coffin lock. The opto on the crate kickout works for a while when testing and then stops. Come back a little later and it does the same thing. Opto on switch 42 will work once or twice in test mode and then stops. Come back latter and it works once or twice then stops again. Both the transmitter and receiver on both switches have been changed out to new ones. Is there a problem with my 16 switch opto board underneath the playfield and how do I troubleshoot that? Why do both switches work intermittently and then stop?
id try reflowing solder on the board
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:id try reflowing solder on the board
Ended up being faulty opto receivers even though they were new. Got replacements and all is good.
Here's my prototype. It was one of Chris's early restores. He sent me the history on it, he built it from scratch many years ago with left over Williams parts
received_235205085001175 (resized).jpeg
received_252102709951782 (resized).jpeg
received_273029611065238 (resized).jpeg
received_3532552330182365 (resized).jpeg
received_3934844823262358 (resized).jpeg
Can anyone post a closeup pic or two of how the spring mounts to the coffin lid and keeps it closed?
I need to see position and orientation of the little spring on the metal rod.
I am obviously reassembling this incorrectly and the lid stays open by itself.
Thanks.
RussM
Looking for part A-20783-7 BLACK OBLONG TARGETs (frog targets). They seem to be a hard find. Anyone have a spare(s) they would be willing to sell?
Quoted from gripwhip:Looking for part A-20783-7 BLACK OBLONG TARGETs (frog targets). They seem to be a hard find. Anyone have a spare(s) they would be willing to sell?
Quoted from gripwhip:Looking for part A-20783-7 BLACK OBLONG TARGETs (frog targets). They seem to be a hard find. Anyone have a spare(s) they would be willing to sell?
Reason I am asking, is that Frog/Leaper #3 works great is switch mode, but during the game does not fire on a direct hit (especially fast ones) . It will sometime fire on a slow ball, but that does not happen very often. I tried removing it and cleaning it, but the same result. Any suggestions other than a new switch which are hard to find in the US?
Quoted from fast1981:Look at posts 3736 thru 3743 in this topic....
Thanks that is what I need.
Anyone have an extra set of the 3 leaper frogs on a stick or know a U.S. shop that sells them? Everywhere I check, they are discontinued. Don’t want to order from out of the country. Quality sucks.
Quoted from tatman9999:Anyone know have one of the scared stiff topper and know where the plugs hook up?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sweet topper! I have the three interactive skulls on mine, but not the awesome artwork backdrop! Are those available anywhere?
We bought a garage full of stuff from a guy that was big into pinball in the 90s and then just stopped.
This will be on eBay later today if anybody is interested.
Hard to put a value on something they haven’t made since the 90s. Will be interesting to see what kind of interest it gets.
The starting bid is high but I would expect somebody would pay that if they really need it. I doubt there any others for sale. I took my crate off recently to put a new sticker on the door and wound up losing the little spring that closes the door. I didn't realize it was there. I had to order a new one for 99 cents after looking for it for a half hour. I found it inside the speaker when I dropped a screw in the cabinet a few days later but had already installed the nos spring. lol That's probably the only part available to the mech.
Not to crap on your auction but FYI:
https://mantispinball.com/product/scared-stiff-crate-weldment/
Mantis sells the main bracket.
Quoted from Sethman:Not to crap on your auction but FYI:
https://mantispinball.com/product/scared-stiff-crate-weldment/
Mantis sells the main bracket.
No offense taken - I sold a bunch of the MM parts like this a year ago and couldn’t believe what people would pay.
That mantis part is one part of this assembly -
I have the LED board too if somebody wants/needs that. Also have some AFM LED boards that I’ll list soon.
We’ll see how the auction goes - I’ll drop the price until it sells
I'm still searching for a Scared Stiff wiring harness. Missed one on ebay last year and I've spent the time since kicking myself.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I'm still searching for a Scared Stiff wiring harness. Missed one on ebay last year and I've spent the time since kicking myself.
Did you see www.wirebot.xyz? Pinside thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/comin-soon-pinball-wire-
Probably too much effort if you need a whole wiring harness, but a great option if you need to replace some wires.
Hi, does anyone know where I can get this solder board for the Scared Stiff. It's the board that lights up the Leaper 3, Jackpot, Spin Spider.
The part number shows:
5768-14901-00
A-21288
I've search this part number and can't find one anyone. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!!!
Quoted from Albery:Hi, does anyone know where I can get this solder board for the Scared Stiff. It's the board that lights up the Leaper 3, Jackpot, Spin Spider.
The part number shows:
5768-14901-00
A-21288
I've search this part number and can't find one anyone. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Why do you need one? Those are super easy to fix if there is a problem. Usually they just need the solder re-flowed and you are good to go.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Why do you need one? Those are super easy to fix if there is a problem. Usually they just need the solder re-flowed and you are good to go.
I was actually wondering the same. If the pics are yours then the boards seem fine. You might need to reflow some solder but that's about it, nothing complicated with those boards.
I've always had problems with the shooter rod interfering with the auto launcher assembly; either resulting in an impossible skill shot or a weak auto launch.
Recently I got tired of this and investigated and realized it's the e-clip keeping the spring in place. Depending on how the shooter rod is currently rotated the e-clip might stick out 1-2 millimeters too far and rub against the autolauncher metal.
After some googling I found out that there are also c-clips for shooter rods and they are just a tiny bit smaller meaning it won't stand out as much. Ordered a few and mounted one and my problem is now finally resolved so I just want to share this if anyone else have the same problem.
Hi.
Last year I bought the SS pinball and now I'm restoring it.
Unfortunately the pin is completely without frogs, so I don't know how they are mounted or fixed.
I tried to look into the image gallery, but there is no answer on my question.
Could someone please take a picture of the frog and of its assembly, to allow me seeing how the assembly is positioned to the playfield ?
I bought this and no longer need it.
I don’t remember exactly where I got it , but it looks just like this one at micks Pinball
https://www.mickspinball.com/scared-stiff-topper-kit
https://www.mickspinball.com/scared-stiff-topper-kit-options
Mine has the Y connection - super easy to connect
$125 shipped to the lower 48
Quoted from Marco1973:Hi.
Last year I bought the SS pinball and now I'm restoring it.
Unfortunately the pin is completely without frogs, so I don't know how they are mounted or fixed.
I tried to look into the image gallery, but there is no answer on my question.
Could someone please take a picture of the frog and of its assembly, to allow me seeing how the assembly is positioned to the playfield ?
I don't have any good pictures of it but basically it's an L-shaped metal piece with a pin at the angle that it can pivot around. The frog/leaper is fastened to a thin metal wire and simply inserted through a hole on the upside of that metal piece. The ball hits the metal, front metal piece goes backwards and the upper metal piece goes upwards, sending the leaper upwards.
If you don't have a stopper on the leaper wire it can/will fall out when you raise the playfield.
Edit:
I'm talking about this part http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK-A-20782
It is shown upside down on the picture. The metal rests on two plastic posts with rubbers. The leaper wire is put into the tiny middle hole from above.
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