(Topic ID: 29319)

SCARED STIFF Club...Members Only

By spfxted

8 years ago


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  • 3,865 posts
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  • Latest reply 9 days ago by JOESCHALL
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There are 3865 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 78.
#3851 12 days ago

Vexed and perplexed with a problem related to the eddy sensor board. Any leads are appreciated. My tech skills are pretty limited.

Here is the situation and what I've tried:

(1) Originally, hits on the crate all registered but then gradually only registered sometimes, and finally not at all.
(2) With the crate no longer registering hits in switch test mode or gameplay, I replaced both the flat eddy sensor that sits under the playfield insert and the eddy board with a new one from pinball life. Installing the new flat sensor and new eddy board resulted in no change.
(3) I tested the small two-pin connector for continuity coming from the flat sensor, and there is continuity.
(4) With both the old and new board, the LED light STAYS LIT as soon as the game boots and never goes off. I see that the old and new board both have a potentiometer and I have read a website about adjusting the pot, so on both boards I have adjusted the pot with a screwdriver to its minimum, midpoint, and maximum and run a switch and gameplay test again, but with no change. Meanwhile, even with adjusting the pot with the game turned on, the LED light on the eddy never goes off. A meter test confirms that adjusting the pot on both the old and new board does show a change in resistance.
(5) All LED lights on top of the crate do light in attract mode, and both optos in the crate under the playfield do work (perhaps irrelevant, but just in case).
(6) THE BIG ONE: During gameplay, if selecting the crate from the spider hole, the crate DOES register a hit, despite the eddy board not registering any.

So any ideas? I feel like the problem is not actually in the eddy boards, but in one of the backbox boards, which may not be communicating with the eddy. If so, which board and what could be the problem?

Grateful for any advice!

#3852 12 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Vexed and perplexed with a problem related to the eddy sensor board. Any leads are appreciated.

Could there be anything else triggering the eddy sensor (e.g. a metal hole protector)? Maybe try and remove the sensor from the playfield and see if the LED turns off when it's in mid-air.

Just this weekend my crate stopped registering hits and when I checked the sensor the LED was permanently on. Thankfully I was able to just tune the pot a little. The LED should be off in steady state and turn on when you pass a pinball close to it.

Quoted from JOESCHALL:

(6) THE BIG ONE: During gameplay, if selecting the crate from the spider hole, the crate DOES register a hit, despite the eddy board not registering any.

I believe this is just done in software -- the game grants a hit to the crate when you select it from the spider. But it does show that the LED drivers are working.

#3853 12 days ago
Quoted from waveman:

Could there be anything else triggering the eddy sensor (e.g. a metal hole protector)? Maybe try and remove the sensor from the playfield and see if the LED turns off when it's in mid-air.

Just this weekend my crate stopped registering hits and when I checked the sensor the LED was permanently on. Thankfully I was able to just tune the pot a little. The LED should be off in steady state and turn on when you pass a pinball close to it.

Thanks so much for the response. The LED light state information is useful, as is the idea of whether something else metal could be triggering the sensor or eddy board. Based on a test I also did by letting both the flat panel sensor and eddy board dangle from the playfield and passing a ball over the flat panel sensor (with no response), I don't think there is something else triggering it, but it's worth a closer look. Also, even if I unhook the flat panel two-pinned sensor from the board, the LED light on the eddy sensor board stays on, so I'm still puzzled.

Anyone else have any other ideas?

#3854 12 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Also, even if I unhook the flat panel two-pinned sensor from the board, the LED light on the eddy sensor board stays on, so I'm still puzzled

This is completely expected.
A ball passing over the sensor changes impedance for it to be 'out of' range of the expectation, so it activated the switch/LED.
Unplugging the loop board will do the exact same thing.

#3855 12 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

This is completely expected.
A ball passing over the sensor changes impedance for it to be 'out of' range of the expectation, so it activated the switch/LED.
Unplugging the loop board will do the exact same thing.

Thanks for the response, Coyote. Still puzzled as to what the problem could be, given that I have tried two different boards and adjusted the pot on both, with the LED light staying on no matter what the pot position is.

#3856 12 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

I have tried two different boards

I saw you mention this before - which board(s) were different? Two different driver (board with the pot and LED) and loop boards? Or did you only change the driver only? Did you try adjusting the pot with the loop board not mounted on the playfield?

1. It's possible the loop board is shorted, or bad,
2. It's possible that like someone else mentioned, that something (metal) is interfering with the loop board.
3. It's possible that the cable connecting the two is picking up interference or not making a solid connection.

For #3, for example, it's a common fix in TZ to hard-solder the connecting cable, as interference, iffy, and loose connections to the plug can cause bad inductance readings.

#3857 12 days ago

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have replaced both the driver board and the loop board, and I have tried adjusting the pot without the loop board mounted to the PF. But I'll keep troubleshooting with what you said in mind. I may try the hard-soldering route as well.

#3858 12 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have replaced both the driver board and the loop board, and I have tried adjusting the pot without the loop board mounted to the PF. But I'll keep troubleshooting with what you said in mind. I may try the hard-soldering route as well.

Okay - some things to keep in mind: (And I only bring this up because in the past, I've had to deal with this in my career. You know those squares or circles you see on the roadway in front of traffic signals? Some railroads use them as well. Yeah, same detection technology here.) I'm not saying that these would be enough to set off the board here in SS, but it's issues I've run into before -

Depending on the sensitivity, some things you think may not interfere can cause issues - including a person's fingers simply holding the loop board. A dirty board, or a scraped solder mask (green coating on the board) can cause issues.

I am ALSO assuming that the LED is a sensor LED and not a +12v or +5v indicator LED. I don't have this game in my collection now, and I don't remember having to ever mess with the board, but the manual says that the LED is representing the output and not voltage present. If you have a 3rd party board, though, I would double-check.

The cable connecting the two will be BEST if the two conductors are twisted and not loose. Help minimize noise.

The cable connecting the loop board with the driver board has no polarity. (Because the 'loop' board is just that, a loop.)

Honestly, I would check your cable connecting the two boards - likely there is a loose/intermittent connection on the IDC connectors.

#3859 12 days ago

Some useful ideas. The next chance I get I will experiment further. Thanks!

#3860 12 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

I have adjusted the pot with a screwdriver to its minimum, midpoint, and maximum

See the attached photo on a good calibration technique. The sensors are very sensitive and you might (hopefully) just need to fine tune it.

Note - this applies to the OEM PCB. I don't know about the PL one.

Screenshot_20200619-155832_Chrome (resized).jpg

#3861 12 days ago

I have an issue that I'm having a hard time figuring out. The spider wheel works fine most of the time, but occasionally it will continue to spin a bit past the point when you hit the flippers. If you hit the flipper at Double Trouble, for example, it will light up. The problem is that sometimes the spider will continue past that point. Sometimes a little bit, sometimes a lot. The light and the pointer don't match up when this happens. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Thanks.

#3862 12 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

See the attached photo on a good calibration technique. The sensors are very sensitive and you might (hopefully) just need to fine tune it.

Note - this applies to the OEM PCB. I don't know about the PL one.

Thanks for the detailed instructions, amxfc3s. I will experiment. I do appreciate it!

#3863 11 days ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I have an issue that I'm having a hard time figuring out. The spider wheel works fine most of the time, but occasionally it will continue to spin a bit past the point when you hit the flippers. If you hit the flipper at Double Trouble, for example, it will light up. The problem is that sometimes the spider will continue past that point. Sometimes a little bit, sometimes a lot. The light and the pointer don't match up when this happens. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Thanks.

Also forgot to mention that everything works fine in test.

#3864 9 days ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Also forgot to mention that everything works fine in test.

In case anyone else has this problem, I reflowed the connectors on the spider board and everything is working fine now.

#3865 9 days ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

In case anyone else has this problem, I reflowed the connectors on the spider board and everything is working fine now.

Glad to hear it, and thanks for the update. I was going to take a look at my spider wheel this weekend to see if I had any notions, but you beat me to it. Congrats!

There are 3865 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 78.

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