(Topic ID: 29319)

SCARED STIFF Club...Members Only

By spfxted

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RussMyers
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There are 3,920 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 79.
#3751 10 months ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Anybody know where to get the blue plasma disk mod by chance? I see battery operated ones but not ideal for a pinball machine.

Mezel mods has the monster bash one
Lighted pinball mods has the plasma bumper cap mod

#3752 10 months ago

I think the Mezel mods one only works on the MB SE, that’s what it states anyway. Judge Dredd pinball on eBay use to sell them but don’t see them anymore. Those pop bumper caps are pretty cool but too pricey. Damn.

#3753 10 months ago

All 4 of my 5v (lg base) flashers on back board not working, any thoughts? Fuses are fine and no other flasher issues. Just that one circuit.

65FEA722-BB30-492C-A90B-C326432CA363 (resized).jpeg
#3754 10 months ago

I have some spare parts I’m looking to sell. Have 2 coffin popper weldments, one brand new ($75 shipped) and one used that is slightly bent at the coffin lockout but has the coffin decal ($45 shipped). It worked fine before taking out, just wanted a perfect coffin. Also have a set of painted lane guides ($16 shipped).

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#3755 10 months ago

Might you have an extra set of left entry ramp brackets (couldn’t find proper term listed in manual)

60036CE9-6600-483B-8463-C2931F967578 (resized).jpeg6559DBFE-26FF-42AA-8527-36B8C837DC4B (resized).jpeg
#3756 10 months ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

I have some spare parts I’m looking to sell. Have 2 coffin popper weldments, one brand new ($75 shipped) and one used that is slightly bent at the coffin lockout but has the coffin decal ($45 shipped). It worked fine before taking out, just wanted a perfect coffin. Also have a set of painted lane guides ($16 shipped).
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PM sent for the guides

2 weeks later
#3757 10 months ago

go into light test, middle gi's are dim for some reason. Upper and lower are all fine. checked plugs on boards, can't find any broken wires or loose connections anybody seen this before.... they work just dim.

#3758 10 months ago

Have you checked the voltage at the GI header and then again at one of bulb bases? Could be a voltage drop causing the issue. If you find it at the board, unplug the load and see-if it changes. Also could be a bad ground.

#3759 10 months ago

Ball Saves. Feature Adjustments 8: A.2 08. I set it to OFF and I still get ball saves. The OFF setting is retained, but it still gives me ball saves.

Does U9 Presets/ Game Difficulty override A.2 08? I am on MEDIUM which defaults to ball saves, but I figure A.2 08 should have precedence.

Software 1.5

I don't like losing a ball off the plunger, but I don't need Elvira's pity. Any ideas would be helpful, I am probably missing something simple.

#3760 10 months ago

Any tips or suggestions on removing both ramps to clean and get access to the lamps? Also, does anybody know for certain what type of lamp sockets are under the ramp entrances so I can order the right LED lamps? Probably go with warm white in both.
EDIT: Never mind. Found thread which described this exact issue.

#3761 10 months ago

Lethal_Inc WackyBrakke has just removed the ramps from his SS this week. Reach out to him, I’m sure he can send you some photos of the areas you need.

#3762 9 months ago

Anybody know why no body carries the leaper frog target switches, part # A-20783-7? Has this switch been discontinued? Also saw on the Pinball Center website that Part # A-16816-7 which is a standup target switch black, small (rear mount) that the mount can be changed to be used on Scared Stiff. Is this correct? Marco carries the A-16816-7 switch and it looks like the mounting bracket can be switched to either the front or the back.

1 week later
#3763 9 months ago

I'm about to acquire a used SS. What (specific to this game) should I check for?

#3764 9 months ago

Make sure the light under the left ramp works. (and better if it's an LED)

#3765 9 months ago
Quoted from chaz009:

I'm about to acquire a used SS. What (specific to this game) should I check for?

I would say the trickiest past is the spider hole kickout. Verify it launches the ball reliably up onto the bone beast ramp. Also, check the ramp itself above the spider hole isn't cracked.

#3766 9 months ago

Make sure the diverter works and the spider motor control board too.

#3767 9 months ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Anybody know why no body carries the leaper frog target switches, part # A-20783-7? Has this switch been discontinued? Also saw on the Pinball Center website that Part # A-16816-7 which is a standup target switch black, small (rear mount) that the mount can be changed to be used on Scared Stiff. Is this correct? Marco carries the A-16816-7 switch and it looks like the mounting bracket can be switched to either the front or the back.

Anyone know where to get the leaper switches or if the ones above would work if you can change the mount.

#3768 9 months ago

EDIT: Wrong thread

#3769 9 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

So, the teardown begins.
Someone sort of fixed the right mist ball gate. It doesn't open all the way, so the mist multiball fails. I need to replace it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you mean for this to be in the BSD thread?

#3770 9 months ago
Quoted from hAbO:

Did you mean for this to be in the BSD thread?

*sigh* Yup, I did. It's been that kind of morning.

#3771 9 months ago

Ok, How can I paint these to look better?

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#3772 9 months ago

I used a paint marker. Fill it in then quickly take a rag and wipe off the excess. Turns out pretty good. Good enough for me anyway...

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#3773 9 months ago

I does look good. Doing it! Thanks!

#3774 9 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Ok, How can I paint these to look better?
[quoted image]

I used a stain my buddy had laying around. Same idea, rub it on then wipe off the excess. I did a light spray of rattle can clear as well.

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#3775 9 months ago

What color is the marker you used?

#3776 9 months ago

So I’ve acquired my SS and I’m having an issue with a plunging. If I shoot as hard as I can I’m lucky if I make it to the spider hole.

My immediate thought was the shooting rod was Weak due to the gap between the rod and the ball (see pic). In my limited experience with pinball machine repairs, my first attempt was to extend the rod by mover the rubber on the rod up. It did very little to nothing.

I contacted the seller and he immediately said to check the auto plunger. And when I did, I noticed a screw holding the auto plunger forward (see pic). I’d like to try to take that screw out but since the screw has slightly cracked the wood I’d be very worried about screwing it back in if needed.

I also took a slow mo video to see if the ball is bouncing back and forth while traveling up the the lane and it did not appear to be the case.

I’m looking for advice if I should try taking the screw out or is there some way I can easily extend the shooting rod? The game seems to auto plunge very well as is.

Any help would be much appreciated.
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#3777 9 months ago

1. Your autoplunger is out too far due to the screw. This causing the shooter rod to contact the ball very late in it's travel causing weak plunges. 2. Only one tang of the autoplunger is contacting the ball. Both tangs need to contact the ball. What probably happend here is the autoplunger was not plunging well due to the contact issue so someone put the screw in there to make the auto plunge stronger defeating the shooter rod plunge. Take the screw out and bend the tang on the auto plunger so both tangs contact.

#3778 9 months ago
Quoted from Tablewicked:

I used a stain my buddy had laying around. Same idea, rub it on then wipe off the excess. I did a light spray of rattle can clear as well.
[quoted image]

Looks good. Wish me luck!

#3779 9 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

1. Your autoplunger is out too far due to the screw. This causing the shooter rod to contact the ball very late in it's travel causing weak plunges. 2. Only one tang of the autoplunger is contacting the ball. Both tangs need to contact the ball. What probably happend here is the autoplunger was not plunging well due to the contact issue so someone put the screw in there to make the auto plunge stronger defeating the shooter rod plunge. Take the screw out and bend the tang on the auto plunger so both tangs contact.

I really appreciate the advice.

Are “tangs” the two forks at the end of the auto plunger (the metal that makes contact with the ball)?

#3780 9 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

What color is the marker you used?

Black

#3781 9 months ago

Does anybody have an extra boney beast rib? I have one that busted when I was opening it wider to go over the ramp sides. All I need is one. Thanks.

#3782 9 months ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Anybody have an extra boney beast rib? All I need is one.

So you want to purchase just one rib? Maybe you should check with Chris Rock.

#3783 9 months ago

Ha ha. Funny. Yes, how much for 1 rib?

#3784 9 months ago

Joined the club. Added 1.5 code, speaker lights, inside decals, need to get color dmd . Has a red one now. Opened out lanes up.

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#3785 9 months ago

I have extra ribs pm me

#3786 9 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Joined the club. Added 1.5 code, speaker lights, inside decals, need to get color dmd . Has a red one now. Opened out lanes up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on your SS! Looks like you found a nice one. It looks great in your classic 90s pin lineup, and it deserves a spot there. Such a fantastic game. It will look great with a color DMD too!

#3787 9 months ago
Quoted from chaz009:

So I’ve acquired my SS and I’m having an issue with a plunging. If I shoot as hard as I can I’m lucky if I make it to the spider hole.
My immediate thought was the shooting rod was Weak due to the gap between the rod and the ball (see pic). In my limited experience with pinball machine repairs, my first attempt was to extend the rod by mover the rubber on the rod up. It did very little to nothing.
I contacted the seller and he immediately said to check the auto plunger. And when I did, I noticed a screw holding the auto plunger forward (see pic). I’d like to try to take that screw out but since the screw has slightly cracked the wood I’d be very worried about screwing it back in if needed.
I also took a slow mo video to see if the ball is bouncing back and forth while traveling up the the lane and it did not appear to be the case.
I’m looking for advice if I should try taking the screw out or is there some way I can easily extend the shooting rod? The game seems to auto plunge very well as is.
Any help would be much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Update to my post: I removed the screw (Pictured above) and the plunger is very strong now. I believe the previous person put a stronger spring to compensate for the ball be far away from the ball.

My new minor problem is that the shooting rod catches the auto plunger slightly. Not sure how I can adjust this? Everything seems to work fine otherwise, should I really even worry about it?

#3788 9 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

So you want to purchase just one rib? Maybe you should check with Chris Rock.

For those of you who didn't get the joke...

#3789 9 months ago
Quoted from chaz009:

My new minor problem is that the shooting rod catches the auto plunger slightly. Not sure how I can adjust this? Everything seems to work fine otherwise, should I really even worry about it?

I adjusted the shooter rod on a SS. I don't think I had to play with the auto plunger in that case. I just loosened up the mount screws and centered it. I don't recall doing anything else, but it's been a while.

#3790 9 months ago

I am looking for someone that has installed the light up coffin decal. Where does it connect to? The installation instructions with the decal are not clear. Also I removed the coffin lid to replace it. There is a tiny spring under it. I did not notice how that spring is positioned when reinstalled. If someone has a chance to look under the coffin lid at the spring would you please try to describe or get a picture of which way it goes?

#3791 9 months ago

I recently picked up a scared stiff and found a pretty nice one. Only problem I am having is the spider does not stop where it is supposed to. Is there an easy way to adjust it? Or a hard way for that matter?

#3792 9 months ago

Does it stop at all when the flippers are pushed? Where does the spider point when the game is first started? The spider stopping on mine is a bit of a timing issue. It kind of drifts maybe 2 items before it stops once the flippers are pushed. What exactly is yours doing?

#3793 9 months ago

It’s stopped at about 630 on a clock when I start a game. It does stop when I press the flippers just not in the right

#3794 9 months ago
Quoted from PittPin:

It kind of drifts maybe 2 items before it stops once the flippers are pushed.

As far as I can tell, that is normal. On every game I've ever played with a working spider, you time it a little less than 2 items ahead, mine included.

Now, mine will occasionally hang, kill the current spider spin without an award and switch to the lights. It comes back online if you just shut down the machine for a bit. I suspect the stepper motor is gunked up and needs to be replaced or disassembled. It could also be a cold joint on the connector. I'll deal with that when I do the cab and playfield swap.

Quoted from Don44:

It does stop when I press the flippers just not in the right

Does it award you the right thing when it stops? For example, if you manage to stop it on the crate, does it award the crate?

I would pull the spider arrow off of the stepper and look at the diverter. Is it broken and not blocking the optos? If it is, are the optos working? Could you have a flaky opto board or connector? Check the solder job and see if you have a cold joint. There is an aftermarket board and stepper available.

#3795 9 months ago

Have tried running "wheel Test" T.16? The problem is isn't doesn't say much about what makes the test pass or fail. I had trouble with mine and found several threads dealing with the spider circuit and the motor. I'll see if I can locate them and point you to them. I have a long write-up that I saved that explains how this thing works. I'll try to pm it to you or maybe I'll need email to attach the file.

#3797 9 months ago

Make sure the bolt that mounts the spider to the motor shaft is tight or It can slip and not stop a the correct location. Be very careful as can easily be stripped

#3798 9 months ago

If you need to replace the motor here is what I used and it worked perfectly ($15)

https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=9238

#3799 9 months ago

Shouldn't the home position of the spider pointer be at 1 o'clock?

#3800 9 months ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

As far as I can tell, that is normal. On every game I've ever played with a working spider, you time it a little less than 2 items ahead, mine included.
Now, mine will occasionally hang, kill the current spider spin without an award and switch to the lights. It comes back online if you just shut down the machine for a bit. I suspect the stepper motor is gunked up and needs to be replaced or disassembled. It could also be a cold joint on the connector. I'll deal with that when I do the cab and playfield swap.

Does it award you the right thing when it stops? For example, if you manage to stop it on the crate, does it award the crate?
I would pull the spider arrow off of the stepper and look at the diverter. Is it broken and not blocking the optos? If it is, are the optos working? Could you have a flaky opto board or connector? Check the solder job and see if you have a cold joint. There is an aftermarket board and stepper available.

It does not give me the award its pointing at but the one that lites up.

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