(Topic ID: 29319)

SCARED STIFF Club...Members Only


By spfxted

8 years ago



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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Calfdemon
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There are 3756 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 76.
#3701 72 days ago

My machine has version 1.2 as well, bought the 1.5 ROM from Matt’s Basement Arcade. Looking forward to seeing the difference in the animations for coffin multiball plus you need this version ROM in order to get a color DMD.

Added 66 days ago:

EDIT: You do not need version 1.5 to install the color DMD it will work with 1.2 you just may not have all frames colored as intended.

1 week later
#3702 60 days ago

Dang, this sure is a slow thread, where are all you stiffers? I have an issue where some lamps come on/flash when you press the flippers or ball hits other switches. I was hoping to upload a video but the extra ball and the 3 on the stiff o meter go on. Any ideas to what is causing this?

#3703 60 days ago

Come on guys! Help yuriijos out....

#3704 60 days ago

Are your LEDs in the play field nonghosting?
Sounds like an LED ghosting issue.

#3705 60 days ago
Quoted from waveman:

Yes - I believe it's just swapping the ROM chip.

yes new rom

#3706 60 days ago

They are non ghosting. When you check individual lamps no others go on which I thought was a good way to test.

#3707 60 days ago

OK so go to your lamp matrix. See if you can find a relationship between the ones that are coming on that are not supposed to. Oh and one more thing. Check to make sure your power driver board is not loose and has good ground. While your in there, reseat your ribbon cables going to the cpu board.

#3708 56 days ago

Does anyone now what size the 9 pin molex connector utilized by skull pile? Need to make a splitter to power topper as well as the skull pile.

#3709 54 days ago

Recently joined the club! Loving the game so far. It also came with a Kuzman repro playfield. I’m excited and scared to do my first swap. Does anyone have a count of what t-nuts I need for the new playfield?

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#3710 54 days ago

Congrats and you are a braver soul than I am trying your first PF swap on SS. There is quite a bit going on with this game for a first time, but hey, gotta start somewhere!! I highly recommend the Color DMD mod for your game. The color was done very well on SS!

#3711 54 days ago
Quoted from Tablewicked:

ecently joined the club! Loving the game so far. It also came with a Kuzman repro playfield. I’m excited and scared to do my first swap. Does anyone have a count of what t-nuts I need for the new playfield?

OK, My first suggestion is to take pictures of the underside of your playfield in the game. Make sure they are close ups of the wiring, lamp boards, Mechs all of it.
Then take pics of the upperside. These pics are not for show, they are for documentation so close up to show detail. The more detailed you are, the better reference you will have. Secondly, when you take the topside apart, set up a table so you can set each component out in the order it goes on the playfield. All the screws go with it's respective component. Thirdly, (underside) label all wiring where it goes to each component. (the colors and what the component is) Example red left, white center, blue right left flipper coil. Now when I do a playfield, I do not desolder the wires from the underside components. I just remove them and lay the whole harness down in the cabinet. Now there maybe some situations (games) that you can't do that or it wouldn't be needed to do that. My CP all the wires unplugged, so I just unplugged everything and labeled the wiring. It's a big job and this way takes longer, but you will keep things in order and enjoy the journey.

#3712 54 days ago

As mentioned in the last post- YOU CANNOT TAKE ENOUGH PICTURES! That really is the key. Different angles, different views, from the top from the side, etc. I did a complete restore with new cabinet and playfield. I saved all my pictures in case you need something. Good luck!

#3713 54 days ago

SCARED STIFF FINAL (5) (resized).JPG
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SCARED STIFF FINAL (86) (resized).JPG

#3714 54 days ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

What a gorgeous SS. That is truly stunning. I have a fully restored SS too, but with black powder coat instead of chrome. When chrome is done right, it can really make a game look like a million bucks. Here’s mine in black.

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#3715 54 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I have a fully restored SS too, but with black powder coat

I went with black also but added some slime!

#3716 54 days ago
85B301FF-9BB7-4330-8D36-46BD68CB2BC3 (resized).jpeg99433CE9-94C0-4D71-864F-F4951D83415F (resized).jpeg
#3717 54 days ago
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#3718 54 days ago

It has been about a month but I did finally make a little progress towards a dual material 3D printable sling alternative.

8D8338A9-98FC-4504-96F9-EA498BA33C8D (resized).jpeg

My red translucent filament isn't a great color match but it sure is stronger than the original material. They have a good way to go before they would look as awesome as the original but I'm pretty excited to be able to run these as spares and save my originals since they've been so hard to find lately.

FB4DBFCF-0E70-4683-8518-7E40137B7340 (resized).jpeg65F0609C-C28A-4268-9C0A-619CFDD73381 (resized).jpeg

3D print files and my journey so far is here:

http://arcadeshenanigans.com/blog/2020/12/1/3dprinting-scared-stiff-slings2

Just doing this for fun and to fill the need, feel free to use my models as a starting point for your own personal restorations and mods.

#3719 54 days ago
Quoted from visi0n:

3D print files and my journey so far is here:

Looks great! Nice work!

#3720 52 days ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

OK, My first suggestion is to take pictures of the underside of your playfield in the game. Make sure they are close ups of the wiring, lamp boards, Mechs all of it.
Then take pics of the upperside. These pics are not for show, they are for documentation so close up to show detail. The more detailed you are, the better reference you will have. Secondly, when you take the topside apart, set up a table so you can set each component out in the order it goes on the playfield. All the screws go with it's respective component. Thirdly, (underside) label all wiring where it goes to each component. (the colors and what the component is) Example red left, white center, blue right left flipper coil. Now when I do a playfield, I do not desolder the wires from the underside components. I just remove them and lay the whole harness down in the cabinet. Now there maybe some situations (games) that you can't do that or it wouldn't be needed to do that. My CP all the wires unplugged, so I just unplugged everything and labeled the wiring. It's a big job and this way takes longer, but you will keep things in order and enjoy the journey.

This.

I also recommend taking photos of each area from multiple angles, as you will find some things get obscured by stuff around or above it. Having different angles helps resolve blocked views.

#3721 46 days ago

Crate question. Are you supposed to be able to hit the crate ALL the time during every circumstance? My crate registers about 50% of the time.

#3722 46 days ago
Quoted from BasementFacts:

Crate question. Are you supposed to be able to hit the crate ALL the time during every circumstance? My crate registers about 50% of the time.

If I recall correctly there is an Eddy sensor below the crate door to detect the ball, have you checked that it is calibrated properly? The LED on the sensor board shall light upp when you hold a pinball directly at the crate door and turn off when the ball is removed. If this isn't the case then calibrate it by turning the tiny pot on the same pcb card.

#3723 46 days ago
Quoted from BasementFacts:

Crate question. Are you supposed to be able to hit the crate ALL the time during every circumstance? My crate registers about 50% of the time.

He’s correct, the Eddy sensor under the playfield can be adjusted by carefully turning the round dial with a mini screwdriver counter-clockwise until the light comes on, then turn it gently clockwise just until the light goes off, as I understand it. There are threads that discuss fine tuning this sensor. I just did this myself on my SS about a month ago, when my crate suddenly stopped registering about half the hits. Now it’s good to go again. Also, just FYI, there is a replacement board for the Eddy sensor that is supposed to be self-adjusting, or somehow never requires it. See below. Good luck!

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#3724 43 days ago

I had a completely non functional spider. I replaced the board today, and it worked. Yay! Then, it was off, pointing at the wrong things. I tightened down the spider some more, and it seemed to work again. Yay! So, I was testing it with the glass off, and after about 4 or 5, it quit working and started to use the moving lights. I tried to spin it by hand, and it worked. I ran the test, and it would spin as long as I wanted. But, in a game, it consistently only gives me a few spider spins before failing.
My thoughts are:
1) I replaced this board with a spare I had from a Jokerz. It could have problems, as well.
2) The motor could be bad.

Thoughts? Does one sound more likely than the other.

#3725 41 days ago

Where do I find this back panel art (or any back panel art)?

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#3726 41 days ago

Used to be on ebay a lot, I think. Haven't noticed one in a while. Too bad, since I need one myself. Maybe I'll have an artist come up with something cool.

#3727 41 days ago

So, I guess if you aren't hammering the spider while testing, it never messes up.

#3728 41 days ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

So, I guess if you aren't hammering the spider while testing, it never messes up.

Correct. 10/10 success rate for me after my last adjustment. First spider vuk during a normal game... DENIED!

#3729 41 days ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Also noticed that some transitions are not ok, especially when not at game-play, when I could pay more attention... sometimes a colored animation begins in white, and it takes a few time (less than a second), to turn into the proper color!

I just installed the latest colordmd file and my transitions are the same... starting in white then colorized. Is this normal? My guess is they're using a programming trick for the transitions, which are not able to be colorized. The colorization process is probably frame-by-frame?

#3730 41 days ago
Quoted from BasementFacts:

Where do I find this back panel art (or any back panel art)?
[quoted image]

Hey Basement

https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/scared-stiff/scared-stiff.htm

Wally

#3731 38 days ago

Need one plastic - hate to buy a whole set.
Anybody happen to have an extra layin around ?

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#3732 38 days ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

Need one plastic - hate to buy a whole set.
Anybody happen to have an extra layin around ?
[quoted image]

Doh! I had to buy a whole set for that same plastic. Could not find one by itself anywhere. Now, of course, I have plenty of extras of every OTHER plastic... Lol
Good luck with your search!

#3733 38 days ago

I know it's a long shot, but did anyone sock away a wiring harness that they might want to sell?

#3734 38 days ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

Anybody happen to have an extra layin around ?

I may have one(I'll have to dig around for a while to find out), but it looks like a pretty simple one to recreate with this method:

Since there are so few completely visible plastics on SS, I've contemplated creating a new set with more exciting artwork than just the electrical arcing. I'll have to play with it some to decide if it's a good idea.

#3735 37 days ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

Need one plastic - hate to buy a whole set.
Anybody happen to have an extra layin around ?
[quoted image]

I have one
Is this it

DE057D17-827E-4C55-B98C-C020D8CDEA90 (resized).jpeg
#3736 32 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Does anyone now what size the 9 pin molex connector utilized by skull pile? Need to make a splitter to power topper as well as the skull pile.

Recently joined the club. Just like enchantress I would like to hook a topper and the lighted skull pile to the same 9 pin molex connectors. How have others done this? Does anyone sell a splitter or were you able to make your own splitters? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

#3737 32 days ago

This is what I do with my kits....You can make up your own too.

Mickspinball.com

IMG_5771 (resized).jpg
#3738 32 days ago
Quoted from TheMickster:

This is what I do with my kits....You can make up your own too.
Mickspinball.com[quoted image]

Thank you so much themickster I guess it's time for me to learn how to crimp. Would 22AWG be a good wire choice? Looks like the connectors are 9 pin .062 terminals.

#3739 32 days ago

Fast 1981...you are good with all of that..

1 week later
#3740 24 days ago
Quoted from fast1981:

Thank you so much themickster I guess it's time for me to learn how to crimp. Would 22AWG be a good wire choice? Looks like the connectors are 9 pin .062 terminals.

Made a couple of "Y" connectors for under $10. Found all the parts at Marco Specialists -

- Connector housing 9 pin .062" terminals - 5791-09138-00
- Connector 9 position .062" terminals - 5792-09139-00
- Crimp terminal .062 inch female - 5821-09079-00
- Crimp terminal .062 inch male - 5820-09078-00
- Wire 22awg red / ft - CW-30022-2
- Wire 22 awg yellow - CW-30022-4

20201231_191622 (resized).jpg
#3741 23 days ago

My buddy's son is dating a young lady who was from the Chicago area and I told her that I enjoy pinball. She said her dad helped make pinball machines and every once in a while as a kid he would pass by a game and say "I helped make that." Found out her dad is Joe Loveday who was part of the design team for the Scared Stiff mechanics.

#3742 23 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

My buddy's son is dating a young lady whose dad who was part of the design team for Scared Stiff.

Does she have a sister?

#3743 23 days ago
Quoted from fast1981:

Made a couple of "Y" connectors for under $10. Found all the parts at Marco Specialists -
- Connector housing 9 pin .062" terminals - 5791-09138-00
- Connector 9 position .062" terminals - 5792-09139-00
- Crimp terminal .062 inch female - 5821-09079-00
- Crimp terminal .062 inch male - 5820-09078-00
- Wire 22awg red / ft - CW-30022-2
- Wire 22 awg yellow - CW-30022-4[quoted image]

Wow, Very impressive with the wiring of those connectors, great job, very nice, but you really only needed to do 5 wires as shown in my picture to make a Y splice for two accessories for the skull pile etc...

The original connectors from the factory were only made to splice all of those wires, and originally did not have any purpose at the time..

Fun learning anyway...

Enjoy..

1 week later
#3744 16 days ago

Has anyone ever added 3 leaf switches to the monsters lab area around the pop bumpers, and tied them to the switch near the left side of the bat ramp entrance? The holes are there from the factory, like they were going to use them, but saved production costs and eliminated them.
Curious to hear what the results might be.

#3745 16 days ago

Edit: I am in the club. Found one and it will ship in the next week.

#3746 15 days ago

HELP! So my two Blue LED Skull Pile 5mm Bulbs went out on me and I just replaced them and the new bulbs work great, but in opening up the Scared Stiff Game I must have messed something up with the Spider Wheel. It does work/spin although I get an error message in Test Mode (basically told to check everything) but if the ball drops into the Spider Hole the Spider Wheel doesn't spin and there's no spinning audio. I can't see where I disconnected a cable which I thought I might have done when I had the playfield in the upright position. Any advice here? I unplugged the game for the time being. My e-mail is cinemashorts@mac.com and any insights or ideas are much appreciated. Thanks! Mark

#3747 15 days ago

Quick follow-up - when the ball goes into the Spider Hole the Spider Wheel doesn't spin and the audio doesn't say "Stop the Spider" (it just says "Look Out! -"The Spider Is Waiting"). The ball does get kicked out of the trough so the solenoid is working, and the Spider Wheel does spin in Test mode (although I get a general error message to check everything) so the Wheel and Motor aren't the problem.

The only thing I did was tilt the Playfield into the upright position and I've checked and don't see any loose wires or connections.

Thanks again for any insights! Mark (cinemashorts@mac.com0

#3748 15 days ago

Check the opto and opto wires in that popper assembly. Clean the opto with some alcohol and q-tips. Replace the opto if needed.

#3749 15 days ago

Will do! Much thanks!!

#3750 15 days ago

Anybody know where to get the blue plasma disk mod by chance? I see battery operated ones but not ideal for a pinball machine.

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