I Just put my SS back together after giving it a heavy cleaning and now when the ball kicks up from the spider hole there is so much strength that it pops over the right ramp and goes down the middle. How in the world do you adjust that area so it smoothly pops onto the right ramp?

Nevermind! I forgot there was supposed to be a ball guide there! All good!

This is what I have on mine. Has a remote so you can set the modes like flashing, random colors, slow color cycling, etc...

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Does your playfield have a date on it? Curious how much earlier it was compared to the shipping versions. Here's the date on mine.

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Hmmmm... No date anywhere on playfield. Here is the only marking.

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It's also got factory lights behind skull pile.

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I thought I would share with you guys something I bought at Expo this year.
This little mod is pretty neat and the people I bought it from are Pinball Inc. They make these and say they have the license to do so. I hadn’t heard of them before (nothing new) and hadn’t seen these anywhere else for sale. They only had one left at the show when I got there.
The Stiff glows when The Coffin Tale is lit.
It is subtle (glow) but really looks cool when you play in the dark. Price was $59.99.

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I bought mine about 8 years ago and the price ( new ) was $ 29.00
Got mine from the guy who originally developed it, but I can't remember who it was.....

So does yours just glow like that or is it brighter?

Cabinet says it was built Aug 1996.

Mine is Brighter and the graphics are not Blurry like the one in the picture shown. I suspect that these new ones that are available started out as a Scan of the Original printed version......

I would take a picture but mine is packed away right now.....

The pic is a bit blurry because it is a phone camera. Thanks.

I don't know how many samples are out there either, but I also have a partial one. (Identical to what you describe)

Cool, thanks for letting me know. Interesting that there are so many versions of this game.

I'm looking for a good replacement crate decal. Anyone got a good source? Thanks!

I have a problem with my first generation Boney Beast Real Eyes mod made by F-2NIRO. I wrote him but he hasn't responded yet. I was wondering if anyone else is having the issue? The problem is one or both of the eyes locks up or drops color after about 10 minutes of game time. They have always been flaky but I really like the look. Anyway, I got tired of it and pulled out my modified head (the original is now installed). The eyes are basically digital camera screens. This got me thinking. Digital cameras usually run on a single battery. That battery is usually 3.2 to 3.6 volts. I'm testing my theory now. I have the modified snake head on my shop power supply set for 3.5 volts DC and it is working perfectly for several hours now. I believe the 6 volts generated by the pinball machine is out of specs for these screens. A simple solution to this problem (if true) would be to add a DC to DC convertor into the wire harness (like a $2 part on eBay). Anyway - Just curious if anyone else is have an issue and / or cares about this possible fix. If so, I can post my findings.

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I have the same problem with one of the eyes. It will usually go rogue after 10-15 minutes. If you find a solution, I would be very interested if getting the parts and a "how to" so I can fix mine too.

I have this mod but it doesn’t work. Can you show me what it’s connected to?

It just connects to the Coffin Tale Bulb holder under the play field. The connection is most likely polarized so if it is connected backwards it wont work. Also the mod has a ribbon cable. Make sure that cable is not broken with a continuity test.

I have a pair of brand new/ unused laser cut stainless steel bat & spider web speaker emblems that I purchased for my Scared Stiff from a limited run by Pinsider Kapsreiter, but never got around to installing before I sold the game.

$95 includes shipping within the US

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/87597

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Just to update this, I went to their site and tried to buy it (it is listed and sale went through). They refunded my payment and said this product is no longer available. So you must have gotten one from their final batch.

Just an update on my Boney Beast Real Eyes mod. F-2NIRO has reached out to me and wants me to test a few things for him and report back (input and output voltages on his board). He informs me that his mod does trim the voltage down to the correct level. I’ll make another post when I know more. The onboard voltage regulation may have failed.

I'm also experiencing weird behaviour of the eyes. After 10-15 minutes one eye changes color. I've purchased mine in march '19.

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That is one of my symptoms also. I’m still working on a fix. Out of the game everything works great. The problem might be electrical noise on the game’s wire harness. I’m considering a dc power converter plugged directly into the ac service plug of the game.

Turned the machine on today, but didn't play it immediately. Came back like an hour later, still fine. Played one game, and now it does

this.

It is always the same eye with problems, maybe it's just a faulty screen? Maybe it's too sensitive to voltage fluctuations (because it only seems to happen during game play). I will contact F-2Nero also, see what he says about this.

Wow yeah he must have sold out. Thanks for posting that.

I did some work to fix my "Terrifying" issue today. I thought about trying the decal, but I know some said that it didn't match that well. I did it by hand and I'm happily with it.

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Great job! And better than the overlay!

Your snake looks like my dog. I tried to fix by rebooting him several times, but his eyes stay the same color.
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Potentially have a look here for a new screen. There are a few different ones. Don't have the mod but from what I've seen it's just one of these products running the, possibly modified, demo code from a teensy.

https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=Animated+eyes

I have figured out what is wrong with my Boney Beast Real Eyes mod. The unit works perfectly on my test bench when given clean 5.5 - 7 DC volt power. When installed in the pinball machine on a 6 volt DC circuit it fails after 10 minutes or so. So, what's the difference? The only thing I can come up with is noise on the game's wiring hardness. When features get activated or stop it causes small power fluctuations on the wire harness which seems to negatively impact this mod. On my game the attract mode will even cause the failure. To duplicated the test I hooked my snake head back to my test beach and increased and decreased voltage rapidly by .25 of a volt and got it fail rather quickly. The dips and spikes are still within the hardware's specs but it seems unable to handle the variances. The mod's creator has suggested that I find a different source of power in the game and try that. There might be a more stable 6 volt DC circuit (I was using the recommended one going to the crate) but a sure thing would be plugging a 6 volt DC convertor into the service plug of the pin and using that. The service plug has it's own problem because it is always on. It would need to be modify to turn off (which is fairly easy) or you would need to plug in the DC convertor when the game is being used (and unplug when not in use). For me personally, I think I'm over this mod. While it wasn't working I got use to the OEM snake head again. The "real eyes" look cool but knowing how many balls are locked seems to out weigh the coolness.

Thank you for looking into this. I agree, it needs it's own power supply. Maybe if we put a capacitor over the input of the board that will help, I'll ask F-2NERO about this. I also mis the original setup where you can see how many balls are locked by looking at the eye's of the beast, but I love the "real" eyes, makes the game look so much "fresher".

I have an apron decal set available for sale.

It does not appear to be pre-cut from what I can tell.

PM if interested.

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I'm considering selling mine when i return from my deployment. ColorDMD, skull pile mod, and a shitload of work I performed to get 100%. Replaced crate decal and placed clear vinyl over it to keep it looking 100% clean for a long time.

Tell your friends. I'll be back home January 2020.

Just an update... The decals listed a couple of posts above have been sold.

Thanks!

Hi group. I am a Scared Stiff owner (2nd time around). I have a real nice Scared Stiff machine I just recently bought, and although the playfield was really nice, I bought a spare IPB playfield that Ron Kruzman is currently doing his A+ treatment/clearcoat to that I will soon be installing. He asked me if I wanted to have him install the front side T-nuts before he does the final 2 layers of clear coat , but he needed to know the sizes of them. Currently, my machine is still put together so without taking it all apart, I would have no idea what sizes they would be. I was wondering if anybody out here has any info regarding this, either documented or otherwise. Thanks for the help!!

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Beautiful job! Looks better than the decal.

I bought one too at Pinball expo and now my SS is ready, have you idea where I can find instructions?

care to share the red paint you used?

instructions for what? installation?

Here is the instructional YouTube video for the topper installation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=Iyd0-qQihGI&feature=emb_logo

I used Createx red as a base and very small amounts of yellow and white.

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Mine is different... have different connectors.

Not these ones but 2 square

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Why are there little tiny holes in the remote and two extra behind the flippers ?

Anyone know ? All of them have it them . Though maybe a wire ball guide or something goes there .

I bought a Mantis spider hole protector and it was a very tight fit. They cut it to allow for some adjustment but it was still tight and required a bit of gentle persuasion with a hammer. Finally got it in but it appeared to alter the ball trajectory form the VUK, causing it not to get up to the ramp. Has anyone had this same issue? Took it off and there were no problems.

The geometry of the VUK to the ramp flap is very touchy. Try tweaking (bending) the angle of the VUK just a bit either way checking how it fires each time. You can usually dial it in after a few tries. This adjustment is so touchy that I have had to adjust it after leveling a game.

Thanks! That did the trick.

I had to saw off part of the end of the protector because of the tight fit but I think it worked out ok.