https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5PHXYA

These are NOT the original ones.

But they are better than nothing....

Here you go have at it . ebay.com link: 0

Hi guys,

The lower 4 globes flashers are not working.
Transistors are ok, so is continuity.
Any idea of what would cause this issue?

Check to see if you are getting 20V from pin 6 of J133.

I picked up a Scared Stiff a week ago and have it running perfectly except for the Spider Hole kickout. I've tinkered with it for hours and nothing I do seems to get it to kick out consistently. The first thing I did was tighten up the coil, which seemed to help a bit but eventually went back into it's cycle of rejection. I then started playing with the angle of the bracket, installed one washer, then two washers, then bending...nothing improved. Since then I have installed a completely new popper weldment, no change. I then bought the ramp repair kit and installed the top bracket, which does keep them from flying out the top and onto the playfield, but did nothing for consistent kicks. I swapped back to the original weldment last night, inspected every single part involved on the lower playfield, measured for straightness of the bracket and nothing appears to be wrong and everything is snug and straight.

I'm at a complete loss here, if this thing is actually this sensitive I cannot be the only one that has problems with it. Does anyone have any tips? I have not installed the rest of the ramp kit because I don't think the game needs it but if people found that helped I will pull the ramp.

Yep, 20V is fine, as are all the transistors

Put it in flasher test mode, and pick one of the flashers that is not lighting up. You getting any voltage reading there?

Did you check the bulbs with a new one? I had a game where all 4 were bad and I was trying a bulb from another socket that was also bad

Do you know what ramp you have? Do you have the new thicker one? Take a look at the where the ball hits the flap. Make sure it is not hitting the edge of the ramp hole. look at the steel strap over the hole make sure that the ball allows for enough clearance so the flap can close. Sometimes that strap is too close to the ramp and the flap hangs up on it or the ball won't make it all the way through to get it closed. If all of that is ok, it most likely is the angle is off just a bit.

Ok so the angle was off. Typical. Yeah SS spider hole operation is very touchy but once you get it dialed in, it should be good to go. Mine will still misfire once in a blue moon but it doesn't bother me. "Hey, It's Only Pinball"

Went to flasher tests mode: strictly no flasher lit up, even the ones that do work in-game :-s No voltage, nada

Lawnboy: they're unfortunately good

Did you have the coin door open?

Yes

Closed it and all others are ok, but still the same issue with the same 4.
No voltage going there.

I’ll double check the wires when I get a chance.

If you are getting 20V at the pin but not those flashers, I suspect you have a broken connection from the pint to the flashers affected. It may be a daisy chain connection that starts at the flashers closest to the PCB responsible for delivering the power to the flashers, and if that one connection is broken as a daisy chain, none of the others will work.

Check to make sure the wiring is intact at the spades for the flashers. Consult the manual to see the wire I am talking about. It goes to all 4 affected lights.

I just bought Scared Stiff and arranged and paid for the shipping today. Coming from Virginia to California and I will have it in about 2 weeks (getting picked up next Wednesday). Looking forward to this pin and already buying plenty of mods for it. The pin I bought is in very nice shape and 100% working supposedly. Looks good in all the videos I got. So should be able to play it upon arrival with minimal work.

Anyway, cant wait! It will sit between my WOZRR and JD.

Congrats! I have had my game since 06. Still love playing it. I am just now finding out that you can combine certain items on the Spider Wheel with Jackpots and Skill Shots to get special bonuses like Extra Ball and a Super Skill Shot. You would think that after 13 years I would have see/done it all with this title but that is not the case with me.

Same here...bought mine in 06, and just this weekend started playing it more...forgot how fun it is. There are lots of hidden bonuses. I always chuckle when people talk about how easy the "wizard" mode of scared stiff is easy to obtain. Then I ask them of they've achieved spider multiball....crickets. Thats the real wizard mode and very difficult to achieve.

If it comes out of a cold truck into your warm house, give it 24 hours for any condensation that forms on PC boards to evaporate.

.

Wondering at the end of a ball are you able to press both flippers to stop the bonus sequence early. I tried it on my SS and it doesn’t stop but it does stop on other WPC games.

Mine does that as well, no way to stop the bonus sequence early. Always wondered if that was normal.

Sounds good, thanks for replying.

Hey SS Guys
The opto board wiring is not available in the SS manual. So when when putting together my SS ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/there-s-one-more-scared-stiff) had to check an original and make notes. Hope that it helps if you are ever troubleshooting this board.
Wally

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Thanks Wally! These notes are burned in to the owner thread now for reference. Feel free to share anything else you have encountered on your SS journey.

Hey W166
I put a link to all of my SS wiring notes on "There's one more Scared Stiff"
Wally

Cool thank you sir.

Well, I finally took the time to replace the crate decal tonight. I searched and scoured Pinside, and I could not find a single thread or post on how to take it apart, so I dived in and did it. This was SUPER easy.

First, you have to go about getting the crate top off. Easy peasy - (2) philip head screws, and it comes right off.

Next, unplug the LED "crate eyes" pcb, and unscrew the additional (2) philip head screws. Then, remove the pcb from the game.

Now, you will see that the crate door is held on by a rod, which is held in place by an e-clip on each side. I chose to stand on the left side of the game, take my smallest microdriver/jeweler's flat head driver, and GENTLY pry at it. I had my index finger directly on the flat head blade (same index finger as the hand holding the micro driver), and the other hand's thumb behind the e-clip so it couldn't go "PEEEEEEEEEEEWWWW!" out and across the room, never to be seen again.

Once (1) of the e-clips is removed, you can slide the rod out. You'll note a spring that the rod goes through. The spring opens out and away from the crate door. Think of it like a gator's mouth...the gator's mouth is opening AWAY from the crate door. Remember that configuration when you re-assemble.

With the rod completely out, you can now remove the crate door entirely from the game.

This is how mine looked before I took it out of the game.

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You can see how worn away my decal was. Well, as I removed the decal, there was actually ANOTHER ONE underneath it. I was blown away. Why are people so fucking lazy???? If you have taken that much time to get the crate door out, WHY would you put a decal directly over another?!?!?!?!

Anyways...I got my trust Goo Gone out, poured a tiny bit over the entire label, got my wire brush and began scrubbing. I lathered, rinsed, and repeated these steps for about ten minutes until all the residue from both decals was gone, and the crate door was perfectly smooth and clean. I then washed it off, rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and let it air dry.

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Once ready, I took my new decal from PPS and lined it up with the top and left side. I peeled the decal slowly and rubbed it flat with my finger as I went until the entire decal was now on the crate door, and I rubbed and rubbed to ensure all air bubbles were gone.

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Then I took this fine product from Fellowes (product #: CRC52215)

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This stuff is like mylar, but MUCH more forgiving and can be moved around multiple times/ more trial-and-error.

I cut a piece too big and placed it over the crate decal.

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I then laid the crate door upside down so the inside of the door was facing me, and I cut the excess vinyl off with a box-cutter/razor blade. Any remaining edges were gently melted away with a butane torch at the lowest setting and the flame pointing parallel to the decal so only the vinyl edge would melt and become flush with the door.

Now ready for re-assembly:

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The game was then re-assembled and tested before cleaning the glass and putting it back over the game. When putting the e-clip back on, I put the e-clip teeth up against the rod, and i placed my flathead's blade flat and flush against the body of the e-clip. That way, the whole blade body was pushing against the e-clip to get it back on the rod. If you try to do that with just the edge of the blade, the blade edge will almost always slip, the the flathead will go wild and the e-clip will prolly fly to the moon....just words of advice from me to use the whole blade body of your flathead scredriver and NOT just the corner of the blade.

Whew, SO much better : ).

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Great info and pictures. Thanks---. Have you tried the Fellowes vinyl on the playfield such as in front of the crate where the kickout lands or on other playfields?

I have actually - I put it in my pop bumper area when I did the PF swap on AFM as well as the SOL hole, the FILM insert on CFTBL as well as the Move your Car Lane in that game. When doing it on a PF, it is best to have a flat card (like a credit card) ready, lay the vinyl down slowly and press it down with the credit card and rub it with the edge over and over as you to go to get out as many air bubbles as possible. You'll practically won't even notice that it is there!

Here are two pictures of it on the pop bumper area of AFM as I did the PF swap. You can just barely see the edges if you look closely enough.

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Another good thing to do for the crate is change from the plastic crate to the metal one. The metal one is bullet proof! You can't tell the difference by looking at it so no one will ever tell it is the metal one by looking at it.

You mean this one.... : )?
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At about 2:15 or so, the camera turns a little, and a Scared Stiff is revealed.

You have to Wait For It!

My hack for pinmame to let it drive a DMD from a Raspberry Pi is proceeding well. Here is the Scared Stiff ROM running in attract mode:

I'm still working on a couple of bugs, but it's 90% there at this point.

Hi All. I recently picked up a scared stiff and my game is missing the 3 leapers on a stick. I see marco has them sold out. Any idea where I can purchase a set, or do any of you fine members have some to sell? Thanks in advance.

Just checked they are out. Try Ministry of Pinball.

Sorry I had missed the text !!!!

Hi guys after years and years of research I finally became owner of SS, personally I give it back one of the only favorite pinball machines Unique !!!!!!
Paid really little but it's a disaster !!!
I'm doing a good restoration ...
A good game for everyone !!!!!

. Man! Did it go to war or what???

Do you own a 3d printer?
I can send you the file .... I created them like this

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Completely destroyed ..... he played little in the hall

I would largely prefer to not have to pay AU shipping, but I guess beggars can't be choosers, huh?