(Topic ID: 29319)

SCARED STIFF Club...Members Only


By spfxted

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by spfxted
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There are 3595 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 72.
#3101 1 year ago

Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.

That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!

#3102 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.

This. Also, check your voltages while you have the multimeter out. That could be another source of failure.

#3103 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!

True! Worth the dough!

scared stiff color display (resized).JPG
#3104 1 year ago

Don't buy a new DMD before you have checked out your board first! Can you swap your DMD with one from a different machine? Had the same issue. Turned out faulty board component. $50 repair bill vs.new DMD which would not have worked anyway.

#3105 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr-Tommy:

Not sure if this will be helpful, but I've had a similar opto issue in the spider hole. Everything else was fine (boards, connectors, solder joints). I replaced both emitter and receiver (both white and black sides) just to be sure. Works like a charm.
Also, not sure it works with all phones. But you can hold your phone (on camera mode) over the opto emitters (and look at them through the phone screen) to make sure they are making light. Pretty cool trick

Here you can see it in action towards the end of the video.
Good luck!

This is my exact issue - I can confirm LED #2 is not lit when I look through my camera. How did you replace it and what part? Thanks

#3106 1 year ago

A follow up to my post about the spider I found. It fits well and looks right to me. My super custom version continues to grow...

20181002_213623 (resized).jpg
#3107 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

This is my exact issue - I can confirm LED #2 is not lit when I look through my camera. How did you replace it and what part? Thanks

Here is a link to the part on PinballLife. $0.75, but you have to do some light soldering. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-transmitter-emitter-for-opto-assemblies.html

#3108 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

A follow up to my post about the spider I found. It fits well and looks right to me. My super custom version continues to grow...
[quoted image]

I think I like that better without the big red tongue pointer!

#3109 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

A follow up to my post about the spider I found. It fits well and looks right to me. My super custom version continues to grow...

Pretty cool! Where did you get it?

#3110 1 year ago
Quoted from spfxted:

Pretty cool! Where did you get it?

EBay. There are a few variations of them. These were the tan ones. It was from a Halloween decoration brand called "Eerie Alley."
I think that the skeletonized spiders they sell in various places this time of year might also look good, especially if you painted them to match the bony beast.

#3111 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

Here is a link to the part on PinballLife. $0.75, but you have to do some light soldering. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-transmitter-emitter-for-opto-assemblies.html

Thanks for sending the pointer Marcbud!

delt31, since the spider hole only has one per side, I replaced just the little boards with the led already on it. Part A-14231 and A-14232.

But in your case you just have to remove the non working emitter from the board and replace with the part referenced by Marcbud.

Since theyre so cheap, might be worth getting a few in case others start to go (hope not)...

#3112 1 year ago

Anyone have a spare crate door? I got outbid at the last minute on the one on eBay.

#3113 1 year ago

Does anyone know how to replace the optos or lights on the trough board as 1 of mine is out. Parts and is soldering required? I think it is...

#3114 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Does anyone know how to replace the optos or lights on the trough board as 1 of mine is out. Parts and is soldering required? I think it is...

Looks like it. It's all through hole if I recall. Should be fairly easy.

#3115 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Looks like it. It's all through hole if I recall. Should be fairly easy.

what part though - do you know to buy?

#3118 1 year ago

I have been enviously eyeballing this thread for years and I want in.

If anybody on the west coast wants to trade for a nice Williams IJ do let me know. Dr. Jones needs a new home and I need a dark mistress.

#3119 1 year ago

Sounds like a good trade to me. IJ is a awesome game. I am sure you would find a taker there.

#3120 1 year ago

I need to replace a couple of bulbs in the backbox behind the floating plastic islands (where the TV is), silly question, but, is there a recommended way to remove the floating plastics to minimize the potential for cracking the plastic?

#3121 1 year ago
Quoted from mrf_pa:

I need to replace a couple of bulbs in the backbox behind the floating plastic islands (where the TV is), silly question, but, is there a recommended way to remove the floating plastics to minimize the potential for cracking the plastic?

The I do it is I press the two little ears that (keep the plastic from coming off the post) then gently pull up on the plastic. If it is the two post plastic then just turn it so you can remove the bulb, that way you don't have to remove the other post.

#3122 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

The I do it is I press the two little ears that (keep the plastic from coming off the post) then gently pull up on the plastic. If it is the two post plastic then just turn it so you can remove the bulb, that way you don't have to remove the other post.

You might try putting a flame flicker LED bulb behind the candle and a color changing LED bulb behind the TV while you are in there. It is a nice effect (and not my original idea).

#3123 1 year ago

Thanks, really appreciate the tips on the back box. LEDs certainly make it fun to experiment with different looks..

1 week later
#3124 1 year ago

Saw this on the Mr. Pinball Classifieds, if true (of course you should do some due diligence) seems like a pretty good deal:

Scared Stiff, 1996 Bally: $5500.00
Machine in mint condition - collector quality. In my personal home collection for 10+ years. I like to sell one a year to make way for a new machine. Will ship anywhere in the US.
Armand, Phone: (409) 599-7863
Dickinson, Texas 77539

If it is true, I sort of wish I would have held off buying my SS (would have a little more money in my pocket! oh well, live and learn).

#3125 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Don't buy a new DMD before you have checked out your board first! Can you swap your DMD with one from a different machine? Had the same issue. Turned out faulty board component. $50 repair bill vs.new DMD which would not have worked anyway.

Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.

#3126 1 year ago
Quoted from MrNanaba:

Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.

There are voltage differences. The older ones are high voltage. The newer Stern models are low voltage. I drive mine(a newer one) from a PC power supply.

#3127 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

This. Also, check your voltages while you have the multimeter out. That could be another source of failure.

Quoted from Marcbud:

Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.
That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!

Grabbed a basic multimeter...

On either of these is there a guide to help know how to test the boards and voltage?

I found fuse f113 out on the power board. I switched it with the same fuse that controlled the flippers it didn’t resolve my DMD issue...so something else to understand.

Quoted from MrNanaba:

Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.

Got home. Realized I don’t have a basic extra DMD and don’t think the one in AC/DC looks compatible and if was not sure I’d want to pull that one out.

Looking more and more like a color upgrade is coming...even if I do find something wrong elsewhere.

#3128 1 year ago
Quoted from MrNanaba:

On either of these is there a guide to help know how to test the boards and voltage?

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm

Quoted from MrNanaba:

Got home. Realized I don’t have a basic extra DMD and don’t think the one in AC/DC looks compatible and if was not sure I’d want to pull that one out.

It should be the same I/O interface, just different voltages. If you have an Arduino, you could write a quick test(or I could dig up my old code). I have also written a test for the Raspberry Pi, prior to hacking Pinmame to drive it directly.
But, I would imagine that you could find a spare Stern DMD for a cheap test, especially if it's one with a bad pixel. Ask around locally to see if someone has swapped one out. One of my friends had one that I borrowed when figuring out the timing for my code.

#3129 1 year ago

I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore. This "might" get around your current issue. https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF

#3130 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore.

Right. It uses the same ribbon cable(the I/O logic) but feeds from a lower voltage source afterwards. That's why you could use a Stern DMD to replace a WPC DMD if the high voltage circuit is shot.

#3131 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore. This "might" get around your current issue. https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF

Think I’m going to go the color DMD route....difference on LED vs LCD...and do both options connect the same?

#3132 1 year ago
Quoted from MrNanaba:

Think I’m going to go the color DMD route....difference on LED vs LCD...and do both options connect the same?

Go LCD on this game the animations are very well done and worth the few dollars more.

#3133 1 year ago

can switch modes with LCD, too.

#3134 1 year ago
scared stiff color display (resized).JPG
#3135 1 year ago
Quoted from MrNanaba:

Think I’m going to go the color DMD route, but LED vs LCD?

Quoted from weaverj:

Can switch modes with LCD.

I have ColorDMD LCD on seven games, including my SS. But my friend Rick has ColorDMD LED on his SS and the LED colors are a lot brighter. So I've purchased one ColorDMD LED and I'm going to try it in my SS and see how it looks in between MB and AFM (both with ColorDMD LCDs).

#3136 1 year ago

LCD is an excellent choice for this game. Graphics look very sharp. You will be very pleased!

SCARED STIFF FINAL (86) (resized).JPG

#3137 1 year ago

Love the chrome. I might do that to mine now. Looks great. Do you mind posting a couple more pics?

#3138 1 year ago
Quoted from Lawnboy:

Love the chrome. I might do that to mine now. Looks great. Do you mind posting a couple more pics?

Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!

SCARED STIFF FINAL (81) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (65) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (60) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (55) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (34) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (28) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (24) (resized).JPG

#3139 1 year ago

There is no such thing as too much chrome!

#3140 1 year ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!
[quoted image]
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That is one fine looking machine for sure!

#3141 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

That is one fine looking machine for sure!

Thanks. I basically saved the boards and harness from a SS I purchased and built a new one. Sold all the old stuff and created this beauty. Took awhile but I think it came out amazing!

#3142 1 year ago

I have a couple of these plastics available. The one next to the kick out hole that always breaks lol.
$12.50 plus $3 postage if anybody is interested.
IMG_20181022_115713 (resized).jpgIMG_20181022_115746 (resized).jpg

#3143 1 year ago

Does anyone sell the trough board with the 5 LEDs already on it? I know you can buy the LEDs off the board individually. This is the board closest to the player. Thanks

Added 17 months ago:

OK

Added 17 months ago:

OK - works fine as is b/c only 4 balls.

#3144 1 year ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

LCD is an excellent choice for this game. Graphics look very sharp. You will be very pleased!
[quoted image]

Went with LCD. Looks great and all is working. Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions.

Next up - I grabbed a 1.5 ROM chip. Just a bit nervous on pulling a chip off the board the 1st time so want to make absolutely sure I switching the right one. How do I know/identify the chip to swap?

6A5A84DC-1A05-4AA4-8602-11AAD3B463FF (resized).jpeg
#3145 1 year ago

Does anyone have some spare pop bumper caps and centers?

#3146 1 year ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!

Beautiful, nice work!

#3147 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Does anyone have some spare pop bumper caps and centers?

Me too please. I had to substitute one blue one with a red one.
The blue ones seem not available anywhere but I think there are still some red ones.

#3148 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Me too please. I had to substitute one blue one with a red one.

I'd even take clear ones that I could mod with blue LEDs.

#3149 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

There is no such thing as too much chrome!

There is if your poor like me... lol

#3150 1 year ago

My cabinet was made on Halloween day but my game was assembled the day after. Pretty cool!

3557248F-8AA8-4D2B-AD3E-605445F499DA (resized).jpegB85AA6DF-F8A8-4BC0-8447-216776669E0E (resized).jpeg
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