Scared Stiff
Bally, 1996Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.
That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!
Quoted from Marcbud:Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.
This. Also, check your voltages while you have the multimeter out. That could be another source of failure.
Don't buy a new DMD before you have checked out your board first! Can you swap your DMD with one from a different machine? Had the same issue. Turned out faulty board component. $50 repair bill vs.new DMD which would not have worked anyway.
Quoted from Dr-Tommy:Not sure if this will be helpful, but I've had a similar opto issue in the spider hole. Everything else was fine (boards, connectors, solder joints). I replaced both emitter and receiver (both white and black sides) just to be sure. Works like a charm.
Also, not sure it works with all phones. But you can hold your phone (on camera mode) over the opto emitters (and look at them through the phone screen) to make sure they are making light. Pretty cool trickHere you can see it in action towards the end of the video.
Good luck!
This is my exact issue - I can confirm LED #2 is not lit when I look through my camera. How did you replace it and what part? Thanks
Quoted from delt31:This is my exact issue - I can confirm LED #2 is not lit when I look through my camera. How did you replace it and what part? Thanks
Here is a link to the part on PinballLife. $0.75, but you have to do some light soldering. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-transmitter-emitter-for-opto-assemblies.html
Quoted from ThatOneDude:A follow up to my post about the spider I found. It fits well and looks right to me. My super custom version continues to grow...
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I think I like that better without the big red tongue pointer!
Quoted from spfxted:Pretty cool! Where did you get it?
EBay. There are a few variations of them. These were the tan ones. It was from a Halloween decoration brand called "Eerie Alley."
I think that the skeletonized spiders they sell in various places this time of year might also look good, especially if you painted them to match the bony beast.
Quoted from Marcbud:Here is a link to the part on PinballLife. $0.75, but you have to do some light soldering. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-transmitter-emitter-for-opto-assemblies.html
Thanks for sending the pointer @Marcbud!
@delt31, since the spider hole only has one per side, I replaced just the little boards with the led already on it. Part A-14231 and A-14232.
But in your case you just have to remove the non working emitter from the board and replace with the part referenced by Marcbud.
Since theyre so cheap, might be worth getting a few in case others start to go (hope not)...
Quoted from delt31:Does anyone know how to replace the optos or lights on the trough board as 1 of mine is out. Parts and is soldering required? I think it is...
Looks like it. It's all through hole if I recall. Should be fairly easy.
Quoted from delt31:what part though - do you know to buy?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5671-12731-00
and
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5163-14114-00
I need to replace a couple of bulbs in the backbox behind the floating plastic islands (where the TV is), silly question, but, is there a recommended way to remove the floating plastics to minimize the potential for cracking the plastic?
Quoted from mrf_pa:I need to replace a couple of bulbs in the backbox behind the floating plastic islands (where the TV is), silly question, but, is there a recommended way to remove the floating plastics to minimize the potential for cracking the plastic?
The I do it is I press the two little ears that (keep the plastic from coming off the post) then gently pull up on the plastic. If it is the two post plastic then just turn it so you can remove the bulb, that way you don't have to remove the other post.
Quoted from whthrs166:The I do it is I press the two little ears that (keep the plastic from coming off the post) then gently pull up on the plastic. If it is the two post plastic then just turn it so you can remove the bulb, that way you don't have to remove the other post.
You might try putting a flame flicker LED bulb behind the candle and a color changing LED bulb behind the TV while you are in there. It is a nice effect (and not my original idea).
Thanks, really appreciate the tips on the back box. LEDs certainly make it fun to experiment with different looks..
Saw this on the Mr. Pinball Classifieds, if true (of course you should do some due diligence) seems like a pretty good deal:
Scared Stiff, 1996 Bally: $5500.00
Machine in mint condition - collector quality. In my personal home collection for 10+ years. I like to sell one a year to make way for a new machine. Will ship anywhere in the US.
Armand, Phone: (409) 599-7863
Dickinson, Texas 77539
If it is true, I sort of wish I would have held off buying my SS (would have a little more money in my pocket! oh well, live and learn).
Quoted from BioBa:Don't buy a new DMD before you have checked out your board first! Can you swap your DMD with one from a different machine? Had the same issue. Turned out faulty board component. $50 repair bill vs.new DMD which would not have worked anyway.
Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.
Quoted from MrNanaba:Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.
There are voltage differences. The older ones are high voltage. The newer Stern models are low voltage. I drive mine(a newer one) from a PC power supply.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:This. Also, check your voltages while you have the multimeter out. That could be another source of failure.
Quoted from Marcbud:Since you had partial operation since it failed completely, it is probably not a fuse, but visually inspecting a fuse is sketchy and is better done with a multimeter set to measure Ohms which you can get for $9 on Amazon. It should measure 0 for a good fuse.
That said, the ColorDMD is a huge upgrade IMHO, it makes the entire game look a lot better. I highly recommend it!
Grabbed a basic multimeter...
On either of these is there a guide to help know how to test the boards and voltage?
I found fuse f113 out on the power board. I switched it with the same fuse that controlled the flippers it didn’t resolve my DMD issue...so something else to understand.
Quoted from MrNanaba:Great thought. Didn’t think or know this...Are DMDs interchangeable? I have the original that came with MMR when that got a color upgrade at purchase. I will try that. Also could I use the color DMD off that machine or is there special software that comes when you buy the color one to make it work? I also have my AC/DC that I could borrow from.
Got home. Realized I don’t have a basic extra DMD and don’t think the one in AC/DC looks compatible and if was not sure I’d want to pull that one out.
Looking more and more like a color upgrade is coming...even if I do find something wrong elsewhere.
Quoted from MrNanaba:On either of these is there a guide to help know how to test the boards and voltage?
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm
Quoted from MrNanaba:Got home. Realized I don’t have a basic extra DMD and don’t think the one in AC/DC looks compatible and if was not sure I’d want to pull that one out.
It should be the same I/O interface, just different voltages. If you have an Arduino, you could write a quick test(or I could dig up my old code). I have also written a test for the Raspberry Pi, prior to hacking Pinmame to drive it directly.
But, I would imagine that you could find a spare Stern DMD for a cheap test, especially if it's one with a bad pixel. Ask around locally to see if someone has swapped one out. One of my friends had one that I borrowed when figuring out the timing for my code.
I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore. This "might" get around your current issue. https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF
Quoted from Marcbud:I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore.
Right. It uses the same ribbon cable(the I/O logic) but feeds from a lower voltage source afterwards. That's why you could use a Stern DMD to replace a WPC DMD if the high voltage circuit is shot.
Quoted from Marcbud:I do remember that when I installed my ColorDMD, that it connected to a completely different part of the machine, and in fact, you don't use the original cable anymore. This "might" get around your current issue. https://www.colordmd.com/installation/ColorDMD%20LED%20Installation%20Instructions%20WPC%20WPC95%20Rev1.PDF
Think I’m going to go the color DMD route....difference on LED vs LCD...and do both options connect the same?
Quoted from MrNanaba:Think I’m going to go the color DMD route....difference on LED vs LCD...and do both options connect the same?
Go LCD on this game the animations are very well done and worth the few dollars more.
Quoted from MrNanaba:Think I’m going to go the color DMD route, but LED vs LCD?
Quoted from weaverj:Can switch modes with LCD.
I have ColorDMD LCD on seven games, including my SS. But my friend Rick has ColorDMD LED on his SS and the LED colors are a lot brighter. So I've purchased one ColorDMD LED and I'm going to try it in my SS and see how it looks in between MB and AFM (both with ColorDMD LCDs).
Quoted from Lawnboy:Love the chrome. I might do that to mine now. Looks great. Do you mind posting a couple more pics?
Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!
SCARED STIFF FINAL (81) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (65) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (60) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (55) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (34) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (28) (resized).JPG
SCARED STIFF FINAL (24) (resized).JPG
Quoted from neverahighscore:Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!
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That is one fine looking machine for sure!
Quoted from Marcbud:That is one fine looking machine for sure!
Thanks. I basically saved the boards and harness from a SS I purchased and built a new one. Sold all the old stuff and created this beauty. Took awhile but I think it came out amazing!
Does anyone sell the trough board with the 5 LEDs already on it? I know you can buy the LEDs off the board individually. This is the board closest to the player. Thanks
Added over 5 years ago:OK
Added over 5 years ago:OK - works fine as is b/c only 4 balls.
Quoted from neverahighscore:LCD is an excellent choice for this game. Graphics look very sharp. You will be very pleased!
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Went with LCD. Looks great and all is working. Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions.
Next up - I grabbed a 1.5 ROM chip. Just a bit nervous on pulling a chip off the board the 1st time so want to make absolutely sure I switching the right one. How do I know/identify the chip to swap?
6A5A84DC-1A05-4AA4-8602-11AAD3B463FF (resized).jpegQuoted from neverahighscore:Probably went overboard with the chrome. But I like the way it came out!
Beautiful, nice work!
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Does anyone have some spare pop bumper caps and centers?
Me too please. I had to substitute one blue one with a red one.
The blue ones seem not available anywhere but I think there are still some red ones.
Quoted from BioBa:Me too please. I had to substitute one blue one with a red one.
I'd even take clear ones that I could mod with blue LEDs.
Quoted from BioBa:There is no such thing as too much chrome!
There is if your poor like me... lol
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