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(Topic ID: 29319)

SCARED STIFF Club...Members Only


By spfxted

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,672 posts
  • 392 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by wayinla
  • Topic is favorited by 134 Pinsiders

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There are 3672 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 74.
#3051 2 years ago

My Scared Stiff finished

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#3052 2 years ago

Looks Great! Man that thing screams Come Play Me! Nice looking game room too!

#3053 2 years ago

it's never finished.

#3054 2 years ago

Very green and scary! What is that Taxi/GoT game next to it?

#3055 2 years ago

What does everyone think about the music on this game, as far as it being balanced? Mine has a Rottendog a/v board on it, and it was sounding extremely tinny. So much high end, no bass st all.

replaced the speakers and it is much improved but I just compare it to my Monster Bash which sounds like a damn bomb went off with all the bass. (It has FF speakers) I am thinking about swapping the A/V boards and seeing the result, but if that’s just how the game sounds, I won’t bother. In other words, I’m curious if it’s the rottendog board or just how the music is mixed

#3056 2 years ago

my SS had pinball pros in it. thought it was fine. factory boards though.

#3057 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

my SS had pinball pros in it. thought it was fine. factory boards though.

PinballPro and FF have basically the same configuration, crossover (which really isn’t needed on WPC95 games), etc. So I still suspect the rottendog board. Argh...

#3058 2 years ago

My new to me RRR SS got a minor beauty upgrade with new moon dust black powder coat and webbed mirror side blades. I am So happy I found this HUO jewel only took me 8 years to find one in this condition. The Bill Davis clearcoat still shines like a mirror of perfection. Time to play with some mod ideas.....

The Mod Couple

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#3059 2 years ago

A very simple mod anyone can do at low cost and Really cool (hot actually?) effect is to swap the #44 bulb behind the candle in the backbox with a Comet Flame bulb! Perfectly placed behind the candle flame the effect is really nice with the candle flickering. Minor but effective!

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#3060 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Looks Great! Man that thing screams Come Play Me! Nice looking game room too!

Many thanks

Quoted from weaverj:

it's never finished.

Unfortunetly it’s true

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Very green and scary! What is that Taxi/GoT game next to it?

It’s just new decal for my arcade game

#3061 2 years ago

After foolishly selling my Scared Stiff about 2 years ago to hop on a GB LE pre order, I'm glad to have come back to my senses and found another one to give home.

The wifey likes it too.. (obligatory-suggestive three-way joke goes here)

#3062 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

very simple mod anyone can do at low cost and Really cool (hot actually?) effect is to swap the #44 bulb behind the candle in the backbox with a Comet Flame bulb! Perfectly placed behind the candle flame the effect is really nice with the candle flickering. Minor but effective!

Yep that effect is cool. I have a color changer from Cointaker there. I also recommend a spinner LED (Cointaker) for TV. It looks cool. You have a nice HUO example there. Mine is also HUO. I paid $2995 for it in o4. I wanted a nice one then because there were few parts available for it at that time. Mine also has the prototype shooter rod. The cabinet art feels very different than a restored one with decals. It almost feels like the art was painted on. I used the dreaded clear cabinet protectors on this game and they look invisible. (dreaded because they were made from a different plastic that was very brittle so if the cabinet wasn't perfectly square on the corners they would crack and break like glass)

#3063 2 years ago
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#3064 2 years ago

The other thing I did. Since it was an HUO game I didn't want to replace the side rails. So I just elongated the holes a little bit on the green rails and installed them over the originals. They fit so tight and matched up so well that if you didn't know that they were installed over the originals you wouldn't notice it.

#3065 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

The other thing I did. Since it was an HUO game I didn't want to replace the side rails. So I just elongated the holes a little bit on the green rails and installed them over the originals. They fit so tight and matched up so well that if you didn't know that they were installed over the originals you wouldn't notice it.

Really looks great. Can’t say I have ever seen anyone install rails over the rails but as long as it works. Pulling the old rails wasn’t really tough and luckily no art got damaged. Just a great title that deserved a bit more than stainless in my opinion. Game is looking great!

#3066 2 years ago

The whole point of (capping) the rails was not to permanently alter an HUO game. All my armor can come right off in 5 minutes and back to original. Side rails can really be a PITA to get off without disturbing the artwork sometimes. It can be a sizeable risk to an HUO low play machine. If I ever wanted to sell the game it would be appealing to a more traditional buyer with the original look. And yes, I agree with you, stainless just doesn't do it for this title.

#3067 2 years ago

any pinstadium owners out there and if so, where did you hook up the flasher and how?

#3068 2 years ago

lpierrick has Stadium lighting ^^^ I am sure he knows.

#3069 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

A very simple mod anyone can do at low cost and Really cool (hot actually?) effect is to swap the #44 bulb behind the candle in the backbox with a Comet Flame bulb! Perfectly placed behind the candle flame the effect is really nice with the candle flickering. Minor but effective!

Yes!...I also have the either slow fade or fast fade behind the TV....looks cool!

#3070 2 years ago

Made it to Monster Multiball for the first time today! Had 2 crap games and made it there on ball 2! I even started Scared Stiff twice!

I think I must have Gotten 3 extra balls.. all of which I basically wasted after getting MMB *shrug*

#3071 2 years ago

A pinsider mailed me a 3D model for the Boogie Man Mod, very DIY, but I thought you guys might enjoy some photos. I have extra parts, PM me and I'd be happy to send them along. Warning: You'll need a good drill (a press is best) to attach the part to the kicker arm.

A link to the final product in action:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ouzTqqW2cBqMWRJx6

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#3072 2 years ago

Now all you need are some of the rubber boogiemen. Ebay used to have a nice selection.

1 week later
#3073 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

A very simple mod anyone can do at low cost and Really cool (hot actually?) effect is to swap the #44 bulb behind the candle in the backbox with a Comet Flame bulb! Perfectly placed behind the candle flame the effect is really nice with the candle flickering. Minor but effective!

I added the Comet Flame bulb behind the candle and a slow color change bulb behind the TV on the back panel and they look great! Thanks for the suggestion. I also put a "tower flasher" LED bulb in for the "Ready to Get Scared Stiff" big circle in the middle of the table, and that lights up a lot better than the normal LED flasher I had in there.

#3074 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

I added the Comet Flame bulb behind the candle and a slow color change bulb behind the TV

That looks great!

1 week later
#3075 2 years ago

Any of you guys that haven't done the Black Out mod (Pinbits) on SS, should consider it. It blacks out the GI in the BB when the PF GI goes out. That means that when you spin the spider your doing it in the dark. Very Cool! And a bit more challenging. Also on summation (Game Over) when the flashers are on the Monsters/Wolves Eyes are very bright. Well worth the $35.

#3076 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Any of you guys that haven't done the Black Out mod (Pinbits) on SS, should consider it. It blacks out the GI in the BB when the PF GI goes out. That means that when you spin the spider your doing it in the dark. Very Cool! And a bit more challenging. Also on summation (Game Over) when the flashers are on the Monsters/Wolves Eyes are very bright. Well worth the $35.

Also worth noting is that the GIOCD board can do the same thing - you set the #4 and #5 string to react to string #1 and it will also shut off, just like the pinbits mod. A bit more
Expensive but has other very important benefits..

#3077 2 years ago

Argh! I just noticed my 3Gory Eyeball Mod is not set up right. All 3 eyes flash at certain times, but it is supposed to reflect the Deadhead Skulls and be interactive lighting.

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1 week later
#3078 2 years ago

My stiff suffered a rather painful injury...

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#3079 2 years ago
Quoted from Mar:

My stiff suffered a rather painful injury...[quoted image]

Looks like you a limp bone issue...

#3080 2 years ago

oh, nooooo.

#3081 2 years ago
Quoted from Mar:

My stiff suffered a rather painful injury...

Yeah that sucks when you have the boney flippers. I have the glow in the dark ones with the glow kit. It would really suck if that happened to me!

1 week later
#3082 2 years ago

It looks like the flipper itself cracked, wow. You could try some Gorilla cyanoacrilate or epoxy, but I'll bet it needs to be completely replaced. Is the bone just glued on top of a standard flipper?

#3083 2 years ago

Hey guys - my game is playing fine but I just saw a switch 32 error. I believe that's in the trough which I have no issues with. I did try to trigger it but the ball goes through and no 32 pops. This is a 4 ball game right?

Anyone experience this?

#3084 2 years ago

I was recently replacing all of the rubber rings on the playfield. Of course, I have one screw I cannot remember where it goes. I was hoping someone might recall being familiar with this screw. It looks like a wood screw, but doesn't have any wood remnants on it. And it has a nut. I'm not sure if this thing is stock or who knows which previous owner may have added.

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#3085 2 years ago

That's a European PZ screw. No idea where it went, but it definitely is not stock...

#3086 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hey guys - my game is playing fine but I just saw a switch 32 error. I believe that's in the trough which I have no issues with. I did try to trigger it but the ball goes through and no 32 pops. This is a 4 ball game right?
Anyone experience this?

Anyone have any thoughts on this before I open it up to the full forum? It's weird bc game plays fine.

#3088 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Anyone have any thoughts on this before I open it up to the full forum? It's weird bc game plays fine.

Sounds like you have a loose connection or the opto is starting to go bad. Check your wiring and solder connection. This is one of those things that happens on these games, the way the trough is set up those optos take a beating

#3089 2 years ago

Here is the write up from the manual for the error as well as the location of the sensor, which appears to be the second of 5 opto ball detectors in the main ball return mechanism.

Here is my take sight unseen from your description: You should be able to look at this detector directly and look for a broken connection, and if the wires are good, replace the sensor directly. Since the other four right next to it are not reporting the problem, the controller that they all connect to is likely ok.

Also, given that the other sensors are working, it makes sense that the pin will function normally as it can still count all four balls.

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#3090 2 years ago

Not sure if this will be helpful, but I've had a similar opto issue in the spider hole. Everything else was fine (boards, connectors, solder joints). I replaced both emitter and receiver (both white and black sides) just to be sure. Works like a charm.

Also, not sure it works with all phones. But you can hold your phone (on camera mode) over the opto emitters (and look at them through the phone screen) to make sure they are making light. Pretty cool trick

Here you can see it in action towards the end of the video.

Good luck!

#3091 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcbud:

Here is the write up from the manual for the error as well as the location of the sensor, which appears to be the second of 5 opto ball detectors in the main ball return mechanism.
Here is my take sight unseen from your description: You should be able to look at this detector directly and look for a broken connection, and if the wires are good, replace the sensor directly. Since the other four right next to it are not reporting the problem, the controller that they all connect to is likely ok.
Also, given that the other sensors are working, it makes sense that the pin will function normally as it can still count all four balls.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I hear you.... So maybe there is a bad opto but bc they're are only 4 balls required and 4 of the 5 optos works it's not resulting in any gameplay issue..... Right?

#3092 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I hear you.... So maybe there is a bad opto but bc they're are only 4 balls required and 4 of the 5 optos works it's not resulting in any gameplay issue..... Right?

That is my take, since 33 and 34 are still working, the game can still count 4 balls at the beginning, so everything works fine. The Opto Emitter and Receiver LED's are $0.75 each on PinballLife.com, but you would need to be able to solder to make this fix. No real need to fix unless the error code annoys you (which to me personally, it definitely would, to my son, it would not; but of course he would just call me to come over and fix it for him lol).

#3093 2 years ago

Is there a source for the spider in the backbox? I know that there is a NOS spider on ebay, but this is for an art project, so I don't need it to be a perfect replacement. I have a spare translite that is a little beat up, and I was going to make it into an interactive art piece for the house, with a spider that randomly spins.

1 week later
#3094 2 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Is there a source for the spider in the backbox? I know that there is a NOS spider on ebay, but this is for an art project, so I don't need it to be a perfect replacement. I have a spare translite that is a little beat up, and I was going to make it into an interactive art piece for the house, with a spider that randomly spins.

Hey Dude
I used a spider purchased from Amazon. Does not look original but I kinda' like it. amazon.com link »
Wally

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#3095 2 years ago

That looks nice! After I got outbid on the NOS spider, I found this: ebay.com link » Hard Plastic Tan Spiders Halloween Decor Lot 2 4 X 6 Nwt

They look pretty close, so I decided to grab some. I'll throw them on an indicator and see how it looks.

#3096 2 years ago

That looks pretty good!

#3097 2 years ago

Hi all. My DMD is dead I think...just looking for some reassurance I’m not missing something. It’s dead as in there are no dot lights at all - completely black. A few games before it went dark it was doing a partial display.

Sine it has gone dark I’ve tried removing cables/ribbons to the board and reattaching, cleaning the area of dust, looking for any disconnects - with no success. Game still plays fine and registers score and progress with all call outs. Which leads me to believe the DMD died.

The one thing I noticed and am questioning is this board that looks to attach to the DMD. The top right area with the “white” part seems slightly burnt and after leaving the game on it gets hot to the touch - is this normal and/or can this cause the DMD to not display?

Thanks for any suggestions.

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#3098 2 years ago

I think what you are referring to are the large white fire resistors on your board. Those get hot by design. That is why they are in the white material. It allows some to heat to dissipate without bursting into flames. Looks like you need a new DMD. I would suggest just biting the bullet and getting a color one from Color DMD. They are the bomb.

#3099 2 years ago

Did you check all your fuses? Just wanted to make sure it wasn't something simple.

#3100 2 years ago

The four fuses in the pic looked to be intact. I’ll keep looking around for other stuff...yes I think the color DMD will be the way to go. Now to research that...then explain to my wife who is always thrilled when stuff happens.

Thanks for the reply and explanation on the fire resistors.

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