I kept regular g.i. bulbs. I matched all of the inserts with color leds, except I used white leds under the yellow. The backbox spider wheel inserts looked washed out and terrble in colors so I used white there. After changing the globes to led flashers, I went back to regular flasher bulbs to give the full fade effect that looks so cool at multiball. Oh yeah, a few of the insets on the lower center playfield that indicate mode completions have clear lettering and looked best with white leds rather than the corresponding color (to me).

You will not regret installing the ocd boards. Get them while he has them. I just purchased 4 more.
Magicchiz

Thanks guys for the input so far...!

How do you think the Stiff-o-Meter would look just with all warm white leds? Wondering if they would tend to wash out the yellows?
PS: haha glad you are using the ocd boards too.. Once I get organized here with this project I'll be visiting your site.

OKay this is exactly what I want to avoid, to have the color wash out any lettering. So I guess for the 6 tales of terror, I'll use warm whites for the red and orange, cool white for the green and blue inserts...

So far here are my notes:

1) Keep the regular bulb flashers in order to maintain the nice fade effects
2) GI (assuming the "frosted" led?) Warm white leds for most - however since the side and back PF plastics are blue with white electricity designs, I'm thinking cool whites would be better under there.
3) Backbox.. Warm whites behind Elvira and the bed, and cool for the TV and "Scared-Stiff" area? Would that make the backbox look too "unbalanced" in terms of color temperature?

Herg or yzfguy, do you have any pics of your lit PFs you can put up here? Anyone else with their favorite bulb ideas?

I'll keep you all posted as I make the transition (this summer..) ..!

With all warm white, I wasn't satisfied with the variation between the yellow and orange. It was more a matter of washing out the orange (making them look yellow) than the yellow looking too white. I think I still have warm white under the yellow. I'll try to get a good pic and maybe pull the bulbs to see what ended up under there. I'm looking into possibly upgrading to a nicer SS, so I kinda need to know what I used anyway.

Oh, I am knocking on the clubhouse door again. Won't be too long. STI is bringing me a rather (in)famous SS soon......

I almost sold my Scared Stiff, and then at the end I just couldn't do it. I still don't think I'm gonna keep it, I'm out of space and enjoying switching things up, but I might need a little more time with her still ...

A friend of mine is reproducing some pinball plastics and yesterday I finally received a very well made copy of this extremely sought rare item :

$_12 (4).JPG

I've been after one of these keychains for so long, but I just refuse to pay 99 bucks for it, as some ask on ebay....

I recently bought an SS. I have a problem with the spider. The spider turns as it supposed to when the pin is turned on and when put into test. I get a switch 12 error and the spider wheel error. I pulled the board out that has the opto on it that the spider turns in. The board LED shows that power is getting to the board but the opto does not seem to work when I test in switch edge. Can I get a new board? I can not find any part numbers

Finally (and proudly) in the club. I'm glad I waited, I got my fine example for not much more than I almost paid for an extremely well-played one. My grail found me.

ss3.jpg

Unpleasant dreams!

Trying to get my game dialed in, what is everyone using for replay and extra ball scores?

Can't remember if I shared this before.. One off Custom painted scared stiff play field my friend did.
Both Elviras have been changed, all the bubbles at the bottom have been redone by hand and are a neon lime color now with all the wording removed, the Orange circle around the center inserts is neon orange now. Lots of hours into this then clear coated. Some day it will go into a machine for leds to make the custom colors glow.
She now has garders and panty hose, her ass was thinned out, the red through the whole play field was redone with a metallic flake,.. Ect ect
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

HELP!

I shopped out my Scared Stiff. Once all cleaned and reassembled I am having some problems.

While playing a game; When the Bat ramp (right ramp) is shot, the game thinks the boney beast (left ramp) was made. Left Ramp (Boney Beast) is not acknowledged at all by game when that shot is made.

In switch test; Left Ramp (Boney Beast) Reads #44 left ramp enter. But does not see #46 left ramp made at all.

Right Ramp (Bat ramp) reads Sw #45 Right ramp enter and #47 Right Ramp Made.

What could be causing this? Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Wow, very nice. Unique but well done. Who is your friend and does he do custom work on the side?

Non pinball guy. Went to school at MassArt became a Pipefitter like me instead.
He's done some real nice mb figurines for me too. Took me like 8 months to get him to finish it. talented as hell, but not as ambitious as I wish he was. Could do a lot of nice stuff if he was.

Thanks for this club guys. I'm jumping on for the first time to pose a question I can't solve on my SS. On a feature light board (pictured below) one light works normally and the other three burn way too brightly and stay on. I'm stumped, and I can't find any replacement board. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem are appreciated.SS board 1.JPGSS board 2.JPG

Problem wouldn't be on the board, other than the diodes. With the bulbs out like that, check them. If they're bad, replace them. Likely, though, problem is off-board somewhere.

Thanks, Coyote. I tried replacing the bulbs with LEDs to see what would happen, and same result--the same ones shone way too brightly, and stayed on always. Any other ideas appreciated.

Do they light up even when the game is in test mode?

Go into test mode, and see if:
(1) The lights light up in individual light mode (and one of them is NOT selected to flash.), and
(2) How the lights react in Light Row/Column test.

I'm guessing that the answer to (1) will be that they're on, even with all other controlled lamps off (i.e. Boot-up mode of the game).. If I'm right, there's a wiring issue or a transistor is grounded..

--Me.

Thanks! I'll look into those ideas.

Any tips on dialing in the spider hole VUK? Struggling to get this working reliable after swapped in reproduction ramps. Tried replacing all the mechs on the up kicker including the bracket but the ball is still knocking back at times.

Finally got back to my SS after finishing off some other pin projects. Looked at the lights in game test mode as suggested above and found that three of the lights--right leaper, right ramp jackpot, and light spin spider--all light up when they should not when I test the lights in the adjacent columns in the switch matrix (i.e., right leaper lights when three bank middle or skill shot, in the adjacent columns, are tested, etc). This led me to look at the Q95 transistor on the power driver board and that transistor is clearly silver while the others around it are not (I seem to remember something from another thread about the color changing in a transistor when it goes bad). So my next step will be to replace that transistor to see if it corrects the problem, and if the transistor goes bad again then I'll check the associated connector (J121) at the board and wiring level. Thanks again, Coyote, for the tip!

Good! Let me know how it goes!

Steve young The Pinball resource has them in stock part # 20-9504-10 stand off display mount I just received mine on Saturday can't wait to get them installed. Thanks goes out to Who.scott on PB Bash for pointing me in the right direction!

Bought this for an "okay" price for the condition it was in (average) - seemed very cheap when it was advertise as a HUO (or in this case HUO after they bought it "shopped" from somewhere else). Lots of damage on playfield which had been repaired. Ended up getting a Mirco playfield and performed my first playfield swap, stainless steel crate, leds, colordmd, new targets, new Boneybeast ramp, leapers, plastics, pop bumpers and boogie men were the main things I replaced. Later on I'll redo the cabinet. Luckily after reassembling everything I only had one issue where I'd soldered the leaper target incorrectly. I'm really happy with how it turned out and it's given me a lot of confidence to attempt another machine. I love this hobby

Before:
terrifying_crate.jpg
spiderhole_wear_bb_ramp_damage.jpg
bolts_damage.jpg

After:
ss_playfield_swap_finished.jpg

Wow, nice job. I picked up a SS last week in similar condition, maybe a little better, but terrifying area was, well, terrifying. I'll touch it up, play the game for a while and then decide if i want to do a swap.

I could probably have lived with the dodgy terrifying area but those lightning bolts by the remote - urgh. I had to look at them every time the ball came down to the flippers - it's like that first scratch or dent on your new car - your eyes are just drawn to them. With the Australian dollar the way it is, plus shipping AND customs that Mirco playfield turned out to be pretty expensive but now I've changed it over I think it was worth every cent.

Nice work. I don't think there is a better looking pin than SS.

Definitely not!

elvira_sitting_ss_trans.gifss_keya.gif

Ted, you think there's any chance she'd come back to the Chiller Expo? I'm still kicking myself over missing her the last time she made an appearance.

I'd love to see her in character, but I'd be happy with an appearance either way.

Forgive me if this has been asked before, but I've had horrible luck with the search function, and I don't feel like reading thru all the ss posts right now. What I was wondering was if anyone knew all the references made during the match feature?

A most beautiful...TOTAN
The earth is under...AFM
It's a great day for...INDY500?
Tell me more...TZ?

Tell me more is from Who Dunnit.

Right on.

How about the other ones?

Move your...
Mother please...
Ah poo (maybe I get that one...)

Move your ... Is CFTBL

Cool

A most unusual...TZ?

Hey guys,

I need to replace the LED board on the crate as 2 of the 4 LED's are broke. I can not for the life of me figure out how to get the the top off the crate to get at the board.....

Thanks for the help!

There are a couple screws on top of the crate, take them out and the whole enclosure comes right up. Nice and easy. Also, if anyone is around you, that can do minor soldering, its real simple to just get a couple replacement LED's from one of the online retailers (think I got mine from Marco) and have them fixed. They are maybe a couple dollars tops! Why replace the entire LED board, there isn't much that can go wrong with it.

I can't seem to get the screws out, if in fact they are screws...really frustrating, can't find anything to get underneath them......

attached picture....

Thanks for the help

sscrate.jpg

Those look like rivets, mine are clearly screws. You likely will need to drill them out.

Wow... Definitely not like mine at all. Looks like the 3.8mm or 4.5mm security screws from old Nintendo 64, NES, and Gameboy stuff. you can find those bit drivers on Amazon and Ebay fairly cheap. If those aren't what they are, I would try to use a small cutting wheel to cut a slot in the across the top and use a flat tip screw driver to back them out. mine aren't in very tight. While you have it apart, you could replace the whole plastic crate with an stainless steel one with new decals. Looks really nice compared to the plastic on my SS... Good Luck!