What exactly has changed between you having 5V at TP1 and now not having any voltage at TP1?

I was reseating the connectors to try and get lucky. When I plugged in the second set of 32. I missed the #1 connector, or the number 33 pin for the set of 64.

It made nosies so I checked the voltage and had 5v then noticed I missed a pin and moved it over, lost my 5v

Remove the sound board and have a good look at the soldering on the pins of the J1 connector on the back of the board. Some of those pins might have fractured soldering which you'll need to resolder.
If you can, post a clear high res picture showing the soldering on that connector before you resolder any pins for our curiosity. Also a picture showing the actual pins in case they're badly tarnished/corroded which might be giving you poor connectivity. Check the 32 pin J5 connector on the MPU board too for tarnished/corroded pins (though your MPU board does otherwise look in decent condition).

Alright, finally got some time tonight. Pictures below. I notice some blackish looking areas on the back of the sound board, could be the culprit

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You mean the dark spot above the middle of the long connector? I can't tell if the trace is burnt, or whether it's just solder rosin. Can you check and comment?

Are you measuring 5 volts at the TP1 test point on the sound board now?

BTW, I can't quite tell from your pictures but the J5 pin header on the MPU board doesn't look in good shape (tarnished).

Well, we have sound!
I ended up lightly hitting the j5 pins with a wire brush just to knock surface stuff off, and I switched the 1-16 and 17-32 connectors on both boards and when I booted up there was sound!

I appreciate the help with this, hopefully it wasn’t a fluke, I’ll kick power back on tomorrow and see what happens,

Now one pop bumper rebuild (gonna be another first for me) and drac will be %100

Thanks again

Cool. If the tin plating fell off and exposed the copper/brass on some pins from the wire brush, then longer term the problem might come back at which point you'll probably have to replace that J5 pin header on the MPU board. If you're not equipped to do it, just leave it and see how it goes.

Thanks, I tried my best to hit it as lightly as I could, doing some reading on pin connectors i saw stuff opposing really getting into them because of the reason you mentioned above. I haven’t replace a pin header yet, and have only soldered on a board once. But From my short experience so far, I’ll have to figure it out sooner or later haha.

Having a similar no sound what so ever on a stern magic. Here are my TP’s below, I did recap the board, and have a new cable. I also continuity tested the header pins and the ones with traces worked a few that must go to ground plane? Some were finicky.

TP1 5.375
TP2 2.49
TP3 2.49
TP4
TP5 2.489
TP6 4.9
TP7 13.8

Not sure the sound ever worked, it was kind of a barn find. Also has a weebly mpu. I’ve twisted volume knob a bunch and don’t hear anything not even a buzz

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It looks like someone had a go at that sound board already and made a mess. Header pin solder joints look like it could be an issue.

You've confirmed the speaker is ok? Does it measure 8 ohms?

What test tools do you have? Multi-meter, logic-probe, oscilloscope?

Ya those headers look ugly :/

I need to test the speaker still, forgot to do that when I was there last.

I have a dmm, logic probe and oscilloscope!

An oscilloscope is your friend with analog audio circuits!

But it will get tricky if you don't have the game with you.

barakandl , do you remember what happens if the volume pot is open circuit/disconnected? Does the sound board go to maximum volume or dead quiet?

Not off hand, but I'd assume it goes silent.

Ah ok, ya I really was thinking there should be some sort of hum or buzz from the speaker. I’ll verify the volume pot and speaker and report back

Sooo I think c51 is backwards

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Indeed, it's across the 12V supply rail from the SDB. It will eventually blow up like that but it's not the problem with the sound board being silent.

Speaker ohmed about 5.4-5.5 ohms

The pot seemed odd. From full left to right it would go up slowly, then around the mid point drop back down near 0-2 and go back up. In diode/continuity test it 0L most of the pot and only beeped when all the way to the left.