Can someone recommend a good way to try this with large objects, like clear ramps?

I just did this with some white posts out of the Stars that I'm trying to restore. I'm pretty happy with the results and this was only sitting out in the sun for about 3 1/2 hours.
The two white plastics that sit in the back part of the play field are severely stained yellow and I'm terrified to try this because I don't want to get rid of the art.

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anyone try this with clear colored post to see if it cleans them up?

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Exactly.

Will peroxide remove discoloration caused by incandescent heat/burn? -Especially in pop bumper caps.

No. In that case, the plastic is burned, not yellowed by bromine in the plastic. Once it's burned, it's permanent.

Just another recent project:
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This time I just used regular First Aid peroxide.
(The restoration also included a new bezel and repairing lines on the screen).

I'm always amazed at how well these old games come up.

I had a couple of goes recently on some yellowed pinball parts but didn't had great success.What is the % strength is the First Aid peroxide and were you using this straight or in a mix with oxy? Do you use a UV light or just the sun, I had it outside for a couple of days but not sure where I need to improve my technique. Any help appreciated

3% and sunlight. I'm surprised this one turned out as well as it did. It was on and off again overcast that day.

Thanks I'll have to give it another go

Try this: One quart of 3% peroxide, 16 oz. of water and 2 Oz. of Liquid Chlorox 2. Got these results over the last two days with a SEGA Dreamcast:

Before ...
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After ...
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That's awesome - was it out in the sun for 2 days or did you use a UV lamp?

One day for each half (had trouble finding a container to fit this in). the second picture is after I had done the to /lid assembly. I didn't realize just how bad the bottom was until I laid the top piece on top of it. The cover for the modem wasn't as bad and was clean in about 4 hours.

I've tried UV lamps before, but they don't work as well as direct Sunlight.

Note. Once again remember: When you use peroxide and/or the Clorox 32 solution, make sure the container is NOT sealed tight or at least put a pin-hole in the top to vent off the oxygen that is released, or else the lid will pop open. I forgot to do this and the lid came loose and I ended up spilling a lot of the solution when I picked up the container off a cinder block wall.

LOL Yep I've experienced that first hand

I tried this on screened plastics. The UV alone can fade artwork (in my experience reds and purples). I first tried complete coating in salon 40 creme and uv blacklight on both side, which worked great on the clear but bleached purple art to white. Next I masked the underside direct over the artwork before applying cream and light to topside only, which greatly reduced fading but still had areas of fading/damage. Last I masked art over just the topside, applying salon 50 creme to only top side, then only shining light on top side with art masked over. This limits you to only whitening the clear perimeter, but end result was huge improvement with no art damage (the simple "after" image attached

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This after 1 Hour HP & UV Lamp.

If doing white plastics with paint on them be careful not to touch the paint until the piece has dried. I removed most of the W and had to touch up paint it.

But pretty happy with the result! Just wish I could safely use it on my flat plastics!

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