(Topic ID: 294331)

Save those legs!

By Gotemwill

2 years ago


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  • 61 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by jrpinball
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    #8 2 years ago

    I've never tried EvapoRust, but for lightly rusted parts, CLR works pretty well. I've brought back many sets of legs with only hot water, soap pads, and elbow grease. I'll lightly wire wheel any really bad spots, and around the base. A slightly dull razor blade is also useful to remove any heavier rust. Try it! This step will significantly speed up any further rust removal process.
    To get them really dry, after cleaning them, I heat them lightly with a propane torch, until surface moisture haze no longer appears. This is important, because you don't want to trap moisture in the pores (yes, metal has pores!) by coating with wax or polish.
    I finish them off with Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. Can do a set of four in about an hour, and it's a good upper body workout as well.
    It's often amazing how well a set of legs or a coin door can come out, considering what they looked like before.

    #14 2 years ago

    I think these are beyond saving. Going out in the trash.

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    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from Gotemwill:

    This thread is called “Save those legs”!!!

    Ok, ok! I'll keep them around. Coarse wire wheel treatment, and Hammertone paint will at least make them useable. Let's see how close a sow's ear can approach being a silk purse. One already has the leveler stud broken off in it, and I'm not counting on the others to come out easily. They really are heavily rusted.

    #30 2 years ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    Every time I use Evaporust I get frustrated that the parts look *amazing* at first glance once first removed, but then quickly seem to take on a sort of residue film if I leave them lying for even for just a minute or two. Of course it stands to reason the parts should be rinsed off anyway, but as soon as I do so they look dull... as if they need to be repainted or sanded or plated or whatever. For parts that were originally "plain bare metal" this is aggravating especially if most of it had been OK except for the rusty portion, and is now uniformly dull.
    I've yet to do an Evaporust treatment that left the part ready-to-use. Which is understandable to a point, but how are you folks getting away with using it without having to rework every last part after all?

    I've found this with CLR as well, but not with all metals. I know that if you leave parts in CLR too long, they will start getting a black coating on them. I rinse the parts with very hot water and scrub them with a brush, as soon as I remove them, but usually I need to polish the part with Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish to get it looking good and bright.

    #32 2 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Rinse off the part with hot/warm water as soon you take it out of the Evapo-Rust. Then dry it right away with a hair dryer. Now apply some chrome polish to the part.

    Yup. Get the part good and dry before polishing. Hair dryer, heat gun, or a propane torch.

    #33 2 years ago

    Not meaning to turn this thread into "the saga of JR's decrepit legs", but I decided to get started on making these decent and useable again.
    I managed to get the broken off leveler stud out, and that was the first one I figured I'd work on.
    Got as much rust off as I could using razor scraper, and wire wheel.
    Then scrubbed with cleaning vinegar and steel wool. Rinsed, dried (with my trusty torch), and sprayed with Rustoleum Hammered Finish (dark bronze).

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    #34 2 years ago

    Started on the second one. No luck getting the rusted leveler out, and naturally it broke off very short.
    Whipped out the center punch and drill.
    Was able to clear the hole and re-cut
    the threads with perfect results.
    Don't hold your collective breaths waiting for the whole set to be finished. This may take a while as I have bigger fish to fry. I may give EvapoRust a try if I come across it.
    Manual methods of removing this level of rust are pretty taxing!

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    #37 2 years ago
    Quoted from DCRand:

    Also think we should maybe take up a collection to get JR a couple gallons. He has been working wayyyyy too hard removing rust. LOL

    I appreciate that. I've just never come across it anywhere.
    CLR works pretty good too, and I see it everywhere.

    #38 2 years ago
    Quoted from Skidave:

    I have used the Coca Cola and aluminum foil trick for chrome legs with pitting and light surface rust. Works great. I actually now use Coke and a copper pot scrubber I found at my grocery store. Same thing, heat and dry...then wax. I sold the last set on a game I sold, so no pics on hand. I think I posted pics on another thread here somewhere.

    Coke contains phosphoric acid, which is what helps remove rust.
    I've never looked into getting pure phosphoric acid for rust removal, but I imagine it must be available.

    #42 2 years ago

    Well, I got the other two levelers out.
    One had to be drilled and retapped, and I managed to get one out by cutting off the foot close to the base of the leg, and unscrewing it toward the inside of the leg using Vise Grips.
    Got two more of the legs derusted and sprayed with Rustoleum Hammered Finish, but was stopped short derusting the last leg on the wire wheel, when my right middle digit took a dive into the rotating wire wheel. Ouch! Just a nasty abrasion, but I figured I'd call it quits for today. I'm probably going to need another can of Rustoleum to finish the last leg anyway.

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    #48 2 years ago
    Quoted from RonSS:

    I tried PB and a torch on rusted levelers, got nowhere.
    Soaked them in vinegar a few days and they spun right out.
    Added bonus, no digit abrasion.
    Yes, it took several days (of non-work), but the actual time spent was about 2 minutes.
    JR, you're working too hard!

    What kind of vinegar do you use?
    I bought a jug of cleaning vinegar at the grocery store, but it doesn't seem to be significantly stronger than salad vinegar.

    Quoted from MikeO:

    Heat from a propane torch on the leg around a rusted leveler after it has some PB Blaster applied for a while usually loosens them up enough you can back them out. The heat will expand the leg out from around the leveler thread.

    Tried heating too. It helped on the first one, but not on the other two that I had to eventually drill. When the rust has eaten away at the thread profile, it isn't going to come out.
    One thing I learned on the last one though (which I thought would be the worst one); if the leveler is screwed in where you have an inch or so protruding inside the base, cut off the rest of the foot as close to the bottom of the base as possible, file it smooth, and then use vise grips and unscrew it from the the inside. That way you won't be dealing with any length of buggered up or rusty threads, and the piece should come out fairly easily in a few turns. Once it's started, squirt some oil or whatever on the thread, and work it back and forth a few times and then it'll come out easily.

    #53 2 years ago

    Yeah, I'm wondering what game would look good and be at the correct height with these 31" dark bronze hammer-finished legs.

    #58 2 years ago
    Quoted from aahgo:

    You will probably need at least 2 gallons to start. I have 3, but also use it in other containers for different size parts.

    I ordered two gallons. Going to get my PVC pipe rig at Lowes.
    I'm sure I'll be coming across some rusty legs which will need the treatment. Gotta get more Mother's too.

    #59 2 years ago
    Quoted from Topcard:

    Here you go Joe. once you try it, you'll never use anything else. I've been using the pvc pipe trick for years. The only thing with evaporust is it doesn't work well in cold temperatures. So in a cold garage in the winter it isn't very effective. Otherwise, great stuff.
    amazon.com link »

    Thanks. Ordered two gallons.

    3 weeks later
    #61 2 years ago

    Ok, so those rusty stems have been spared! I finished them with Krylon Fusion Hammered Silver, but I'm not really happy with the finish. It's not even close to the authentic hammered finish you get with Hammerite spray. More of a fuzzy kind of finish. But, they're going to be used again instead of getting scrapped.

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