(Topic ID: 166924)

Documentation of all differences in a sample Twilight Zone

By lyonsden

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 months ago by sulli10
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#40 7 years ago

Some info -
Check for T-Nutted posts, all of them. (If they ARE T-Nutted, change out the ones you can.)
Colors in front of right ramp are different.
Your have a very early sample game, like mine. My UR Magnet was installed as well.
Extra Optos are "Clock Passage" (in front of clock between Piano and Slot), "2nd BigKick", and the UR Magnet.
Check the spiral insert. On mine the original "GUM-BALL" text was scraped off.
Your Door light board, yes, has holes for all 4 door flashers (see my linked video in TZ Owners Thread to see how they fire..)
Check the bottom/top of playfield over by plastic flasher in bumper area for a drilled/filled hole.
Shooter ramp/ball guide is two parts, not one.
No pop bumper came with colored skirts - that was done after-the-fact, I did it in my game as well.
TZs were originally to come with 7 balls - 6 steel, 1 ceramic. It was changed. Our early samples have a decal that still state that.
Looks like yours wss made about 2 weeks before mine.

#42 7 years ago

To expand on a few of those items -

The backbox art is no longer a sure-fire way to tell a sample, as someone reproduced decals with that artwork, so anyone could re-decal their cabinet with the white doors up there at top.

The artwork differences on the playfield are one of the changes that is still unique - mainly because Mirco, when he reproduced his 'early' playfield (with the three magnets) wasn't aware that some of the art was changed as well. Specifically, in front of the main ramp - you'll notice the inserts are surrounded by a green rocket design - instead of white. Also, next to the autofire ramp (detail below), there's a post that was removed in productions games - sample games had the artwork rounded off for the post (regardless of whether the post was there or not.)

The autofire ramp & behind the UR flipper guide - originally this was two pieces - the ramp was mounted where it is now. But the metal guide on the left side of the ramp ended in a short postwith a rubber on it. Then another short ball guide mounted behind the flipper (same part # as the ball guide mounted to the right of the slot machine). They realized that having the autofire kicker ramp bordered by two rubber-wearing posts made it more difficult for the kicker to get balls up and around - so the ramp was changed to one piece - the left wall of the ramp comes down and ends down right above the rocket kicker. Funny enough, production manuals STILL show this as two parts. Check it out!

T-Nutted posts, at least in TZ, are difficult to keep tight. All the single short posts were routed on the underside of the playfield to accept T-Nuts. At some point, the posts were changed (longer threaded area) to accept nylon locknuts. This is another sure way to tell an early sample from a repro, as I'm pretty sure (not 100%) that Mirco's playfields don't have these either.

The "roof" plastic by the pop bumpers - you will note that there is one star post holding up this dual-layer plastic, and two metal posts. If you look in the manual - yes, even production ones - you will see that the star post, which is directly left of the bottom pop bumper, in the manual is moved out some - it is NOT up against the wood rail. You'll notice that the TOP plastic is also larger than the one under it, showing how the two used to be. On my playfield on the bottom side, there was a hole where this post should have been - it was filled in with a dowel and glued into place, then sanded down. As far as I can tell, this happened BEFORE the field went to printing - as I couldn't find any trace of seam on the top side. (And, unfortunately, I forgot to have HEP look for anything out of the ordinary when Chris restored my playfield.. so now, I'll never know.) I wouldn't be surprised if yours has a hole down there as well.

Oh - your Mini-Playfield likely won't have the spring / leveling feature. If it does, it was added later by an owner.

Your instruction card (it's a strange color.. Mine was white.) likely ends in "-1" instead of "-2". The only differences? A period was added, and font-size was enlarged.

You SHOULD have a wiring harness for the top two door flashers - look for an unused 4-pin .156" header, with three wires going to it. That will plug into flasher board.

Your game was probably also sent with the left spiral sign. Mine was installed - the same tech that scraped off my 'GUM-Ball' insert and put the decal on the right spiral sign removed the left one, and left it in the cabinet. (Idiot me, long ago I figured I didn't need them. I threw away the mounting bracket, and then later, somehow lost my plastic. Argh.) You may find screw holes on the mini-playfield up where that mounted.

You will also have a plastic shield over the main ramp switch. (I do too..) This was changed and removed - to be replaced by a grey rubber booty.

The optos - the 'Clock Passage' opto just scores you some points. (During 9.4H testing, I had asked Ted if he could play a sound like when Camera was lit, or Town Square Madness was going - like when the ball comes out of Lock or is caught by the magnet. He declined, stating that it would go off far too much. After thinking about it, I agreed with that..) The 2nd Big Kick opto doesn't really do anything - though if it's blocked, the game will try to fire the autofire a few times, before giving up. Apparently - and I haven't found any confirmation of this, I don't think - there was an idea of using the autofire kicker as a second 'ball lock' area.

Oh, and in the backbox - you'll find your 8-driver PCB (the small one that's connected to the MPU via the 'Display' cable) is mounted on the left side of the backbox - instead of where they moved it in production games - the upper right.

Yes, I know far, far too much about sample/prototype/production differences. I had a webpage up that went over MUCH of this before Gameroom ran their article. Since I was working at the arcade when we took delivery of the Sample TZ, and then made it into my collection.. it'll never leave.

#47 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Wow! Thanks Coyote! This is quite a list to go through. Right now, I checked the right spiral insert and it is covered by a decal with a rectangle size of clear/decal removed from the insert below it.

Yup, so likely yours is like mine - a tech came out right after delivery from Greater Southern and scraped off the original artwork and put on that decal. On my game, the Midway guy that came out forgot the decal - so he told me to 'put it on this light when he mailed it to us'. We never got it in the mail, so, mine's been blank since then. Cool, as I've never seen another with that change.

User LITZ has an early sample too, but I'm not sure if he had the art change. I know he still has his left 'Spira' sign though, darnit.

#62 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I'm not quite sure that I am following everything, but there is what looks like rounded off artwork for a post near the UR flipper and autofile ramp. It looks to be two pieces, but again, I'm not quite sure. Photos attached.

Yup, that first pic is the area - see my game here:
IMG_20141109_161351 (resized).jpgIMG_20141109_161351 (resized).jpg
Interesting that yours doesn't seem to have the hole drilled.. this may be significant, see below.. But, in this pic I have the post removed, but my game has it normally. You will notice my autofire ramp - with the rusted blue there - looks like it's uneven on the left side by the post. This is because this ramp is a replacement. My original ramp got far too rusted (likely bad polishing), and back in the late 90's I ordered a new ramp. When I got the new one, it had the full ball guide down. Not knowing why the 'new' ramp didn't fit my 'old' ramp, instead of removing the ball guide and post, I cut the ramp. D'oh.

Quoted from lyonsden:

I noticed this in the rubber guide in the manual when I was replacing them. Mine is pushed up against the wall.
Mine does not look to have a filled hole.

Yup, that's how it is on production games. And again, strange that you have no marking underneath. See my game here:
IMG_20141109_113849 (resized).jpgIMG_20141109_113849 (resized).jpg
Just to the right of the T-nit is a dowel-filled hole. It was like this when it came from the factory. But the topside looked untouched, which doesn't help me determine if this was actually the old planned location for that post or not.

Quoted from lyonsden:

No leveling springs on the mini playfield. Not sure where they would be put, but here is a photo of where I would guess them to be.

I don't have a picture of them - someone with a production game would have to grab a shot. But, it's mounted on the top of the post going into the bottom playfield.

Quoted from lyonsden:

Unfortunately, no plastics or other spare parts were in the game except this metal thing, what I don't think came from the game (but I could be mistaken.) Also, the coin box is red, but could have been swapped from another game.

I haven't seen that before - that's new to me. Looks like it may be a drop-target reset plate?

Quoted from lyonsden:

I documented the clock passage extra opto previously and here the one for the UR magnet. Where is the 2nd BigKick?

If you look closely down at the autofire kicker - you'll see two optos in there. (Or, at least, two locations for optos..)

A note about playfield changes - interestingly, artwork and CNC wasn't all changed 'at once'. I've seen sample games with no post hole (up there by the autofire ramp) but with the artwork masked off, and I've seen playfield with a hole there, but the artwork NOT masked off. I have no clue as to why - maybe PF manufacturer and different orders? Maybe the post was removed long before samples were done, but the company who CNC's and printed my playfield didn't have the updated files, and yours had an updated CNC file. (It LOOKS like you don't have a hole there.. But, I can't be certain.)

Also, something I forgot to mention - check the Rocket Kicker arm. Check that it's NOT a slingshot kicker arm with a lip over the top of the plastic. My game was assembled with a slingshot kicker arm - that top notch (to keep rubbers from sliding behind the arm), over 20 years, drove the ball into the playfield and completely destroyed that area. That's why I had to get my PF restored by Chris @HEP.

If you got any other questions though, post here, because I'm sure there's some folks out here that may know something or two that I missed. (Example? The white backbox art behind Rod? I *never noticed that* until about 2008... seriously. I just never noticed.)

#64 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Thanks again for the info. There is a hole drilled for that post and a T-nut under the playfield. Also, many thanks on the rocket kicker. I think it is a slingshot kicker arm and there is damage starting at the switch. I ordered cliffys to protect that area (and the others on the game), but do you know the correct arm for the rocket?

That's the right arm - you're good there! Yeah, the cliffy's help protect the area (I get some ball bounce-out since putting the cliffy down, but it's something I can live with.)

And interesting then - you have the full piece ramp. Cool little difference there.

Oh, and I forgot something (I always do..)
On prototype and some early sample games, the crossover wire form (the ramp leading to the mini playfield) had it's leg too short - so to keep angle right, they put in two or three washers under the leg, on top of the post. WMS released a bulletin informing that if operators replaced the ramp, the washers weren't necessary. As far as i can remember, mine was fine, so yours is likely fine as well.

#65 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Mine has the grey plastic booty. Also, there are a lot of "extra" holes in the main ramp. Not sure if this was an initial fit problem at the factory, due to the previous owner stripping holes, or a change in that cover.

Oh, and with this -
Check the other switch on the ramp - over in the top right corner. You'll see it' covered with a hard plastic shell. Mine has it as well - they changed this out to the grey booty sometime later. And for the extra holes - yeah - the bottom most screw on the left side of the top overlay plastic - that was moved later in the production run. I can get a pic of mine tonight to show you where it was moved to. (Though it looks like, on yours, someone just made new holes and moved the whole thing..)

3 weeks later
#69 7 years ago

Bumping this, because even after 23 years, I *still* learn things about this game.

Back in the 90's there was, at some point always some discussion about how to stop balls from bouncing out of the rocket kicker after a successful skill shot. People recommended putting a post in one of the metal bracket screwholes behind the UR flipper to slow the ball down.

I never did this in my game, for some reason I never had to. I rarely had balls bounce out of there.

Well, because I had my playfield restored, and I put down a cliffy over the rocket kicker area, balls were getting occasionally trapped on the edge of the metal adjustable rocket guide and the cliffy. My adjustable guide is original to the game, and the end of it is pretty banged up where balls would hit it. So, I figure getting a new guide is in order.

Here's my original guide:
IMAG0092 (resized).jpgIMAG0092 (resized).jpg
It's difficult to see, as my camera kept trying to focus on the jukebox, but you can barely make out the dented in end on the right side there.

Now, here's a picture of the new guide I ordered (on the left) with my original (on the right):
IMAG0095 (resized).jpgIMAG0095 (resized).jpg
Well, isn't that interesting! This is why people have so many problems with ball bouncing out of the rocket kicker, and I never did. (You can also see the banged up end better in this shot.)

So, add that to the list - the rocket kicker adjustable guide was cut in so balls wouldn't hit the metal edge sticking out, instead hitting the rubber post. This inadvertantly caused balls to bounce out easier. (Which they do - I put the new one in for a few games, and sure enough - balls dribbled out over 3/4ths of the time.)

#71 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think its time to reproduce the original guide to solve the problem.

I've contacted a few people to see if they can reproduce it. I personally do NOT like that new one.

#73 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe make a little template so that people could just modify their existing one?
Or just make a little picture of the dimensions.

Can't! The one with the cutout is the new one - the one without the cutout is my old one.

1 week later
#85 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

After all this work documenting the differences between the samples and regular TZs (thanks again Coyote!), I found this very old web-page on archive.org: https://web.archive.org/web/20031006184206/http://www.frii.com/~foxtrot/games/tz_smp.html

Holy shit. That's my old page..! I'll have to review that, some info may be outdated now as new things came to light, etc..

#87 7 years ago

Off-topic, I checked out that archive for other old pages. Some that are interesting -

A list of unused sound bytes that existed in the CV ROMs..
https://web.archive.org/web/20081020064951/http://www.tsqmadness.com/games/cv_unheard.php

Same, for unheard sound bytes in Road Show..
https://web.archive.org/web/20081019115412/http://www.tsqmadness.com/games/rs_unheard.php

Same, except for animations used in Safe Cracker..
https://web.archive.org/web/20081020065002/http://www.tsqmadness.com/games/sc_freegift.php

I don't know if I still have the sound files / animations. I don't believe I do, but I'll check this coming week. These pages are after I left the 'frii.com' (old ISP, when I was in Colorado) and got my own domain - 'tsqmadness.com'. (And yeah, that's 'Town Square Madness'. )

Edit: Kinda sad that they didn't archive the Safe Craeker images, when other small images (like the 'Magical Drop 3' characters..) are. Strange.

1 month later
#92 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Do I risk some sort of danger by having the magnet installed, if the corresponding optos are not there? (I also have a TAF so a little sensitive to that

No - if the switch for the UR magnet is blocked (opto 'active') on game bootup, the code assumes that there is no magnet installed. It will pulse the magnet in test mode, but won't do anything in game.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks Lloyd! I am really confused about which wires to use for which optos - the Pinbits kit assumes you have a production TZ; since mine is a sample, I was under the impression I could use the existing molex connectors to the opto board.. just not clear which ones go where.

You should already have the 2x 7-opto boards. The sample optos are:
1st Autofire Kicker ('Big Kick 1') - Switch 72.
UR Magnet - Switch 82.
Clock Passage - Switch 86.

Hook them up to the 7-opto boards where those switches would be connected. (One board is column 7, one is column 8.)

#94 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That's the piece I was unclear on. Man, thank you Coyote! Thank you Lloyd! I actually may have time to complete this before work tomorrow...

Check you don't already have the plugs for the optos down under the playfield. I had them in my game, dated 3 days before yours.

1 week later
#103 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Question about the plastic over the left spiral: what the heck did this look like? I've seen the one that's transparent with the yellow header, and another one that's black & white with the spiral graphic. Are either of these the 'real' one?
Mine is long missing so I'd love to recreate it somehow.

It's the clear with yellow top. The actual plastic, however, had text on it that read something akin of 'Spiral Award When Lit'. After the sign was removed from the game, they kept the plastic in the plastic set, but removed the text. The one with the spiral design is some 'mod'.

2 years later
#109 5 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

That's interesting. The manual shows them reversed, with the slope in front. I don't have a TZ yet- do they fit when turned around?

The manual is incorrect - they should be with the slope in the back.

#111 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The ones in my game were never changed. Slope facing backward.

I mistyped. Post fixed. Your game is fine.

4 years later
#113 7 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

Thank you, precious information. I tried everything to make the ball fall into the rocket autofire but still not making it 100%. Ball is hitting the corner of this ball guide, it's too short. I'm going to make a new one, something in-between the sample and the production run. It should solve the problem

I'm curious what you come up with! Let us know!

2 weeks later
#115 7 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

Update. You can see, from left to right, original, a 3D printed one with smaller cutout and the final one without cutout like the sample one. The printed one improved a little. The final one is perfect, ball stay inside the rocket all the time. I don't see problems with the ball hitting the edge yet. Even the aiming to the hitchhiker improved a lot, much more consistent. I'm happy. Now I just need to mirror polish it
[quoted image]

Well done, I'm impressed!

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