Grand Prix
Williams, 1976You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider EMsInKC.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from FatPanda:I was going to try it the easiest way I know how, find the lug with the same colored wires on them (W-GRN) on the relay side and the socket side, and use the continuity function on my DMM...unless I need to think about it differently?
Just jumper off a good GI light in the backbox. That will at least tell you if the sockets are good.
Assuming the bulbs are good, it's pretty common to lose ground on backbox sockets.
Quoted from MarkG:If mechanical vibrations make the light work that makes me suspicious of the socket. Corrosion often works its way between the socket barrel and the bracket which breaks the connection or makes it intermittent. Sometimes you can get the socket to work by twisting the barrel relative to the bracket. A better solution is to solder the two together:
[quoted image]
If you go the solder route, you'll need to give the solder good clean surfaces to bond to on both parts. A wire brush or sandpaper should help, along with a little flux if you have any.
Backbox sockets are tougher to do this on. I'd just replace them.
The flickering is ghosting which happens with LEDs unless you buy non ghosting LEDs.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider EMsInKC.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/same-player-shoots-again-backglass-lights?tu=EMsInKC and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Kansas City, MO