(Topic ID: 244950)

Grand Prix "Same player Shoots Again" backglass lights

By FatPanda

4 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by EMsInKC
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Socket solder (resized).jpg
SPSA (resized).jpg
#1 4 years ago

Sorting out a Williams Grand Prix and I noticed that the "Same Player Shoots Again" playfield insert lights up, but the backglass does not light up when an extra ball is earned. I read on a different thread that these lights are wired in parallel, which tells me that if one insert lights, the other should also light. My initial thoughts are to see if there was a break in continuity from the extra ball relay up to the backbox lights. Would this be a good start?
SPSA (resized).jpgSPSA (resized).jpg

#2 4 years ago

Yes, assuming the bulbs and sockets are good, and other backbox lights work. One approach would be to shut the power off, clip one meter probe to the white-green wire on the Extra Ball relay switch and measure the resistance to the same wire on the working bulb socket. Then compare that to the resistance from the relay switch to the non working bulb. If they're not about the same, trace the white-green wire back through the jones plug to see if you can find the discontinuity by checking resistance on either side of the jones plug.

/Mark

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

Yes, assuming the bulbs and sockets are good, and other backbox lights work. One approach would be to shut the power off, clip one meter probe to the white-green wire on the Extra Ball relay switch and measure the resistance to the same wire on the working bulb socket. Then compare that to the resistance from the relay switch to the non working bulb. If they're not about the same, trace the white-green wire back through the jones plug to see if you can find the discontinuity by checking resistance on either side of the jones plug.
/Mark

I was going to try it the easiest way I know how, find the lug with the same colored wires on them (W-GRN) on the relay side and the socket side, and use the continuity function on my DMM...unless I need to think about it differently?

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I was going to try it the easiest way I know how, find the lug with the same colored wires on them (W-GRN) on the relay side and the socket side, and use the continuity function on my DMM...unless I need to think about it differently?

Just jumper off a good GI light in the backbox. That will at least tell you if the sockets are good.

Assuming the bulbs are good, it's pretty common to lose ground on backbox sockets.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Just jumper off a good GI light in the backbox. That will at least tell you if the sockets are good.
Assuming the bulbs are good, it's pretty common to lose ground on backbox sockets.

The sockets should be good because the LEDs (I know, I know ) that I put there flicker ever-so-slightly when a solenoid fires. But I can still easily do this to confirm. Or I can jumper off of a controlled lamp (because I'm really a SS guy and am afraid of blowing anything up)

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

The sockets should be good because the LEDs (I know, I know ) that I put there flicker ever-so-slightly when a solenoid fires.

If mechanical vibrations make the light work that makes me suspicious of the socket. Corrosion often works its way between the socket barrel and the bracket which breaks the connection or makes it intermittent. Sometimes you can get the socket to work by twisting the barrel relative to the bracket. A better solution is to solder the two together:
Socket solder (resized).jpgSocket solder (resized).jpg
If you go the solder route, you'll need to give the solder good clean surfaces to bond to on both parts. A wire brush or sandpaper should help, along with a little flux if you have any.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

If mechanical vibrations make the light work that makes me suspicious of the socket. Corrosion often works its way between the socket barrel and the bracket which breaks the connection or makes it intermittent. Sometimes you can get the socket to work by twisting the barrel relative to the bracket. A better solution is to solder the two together:
[quoted image]
If you go the solder route, you'll need to give the solder good clean surfaces to bond to on both parts. A wire brush or sandpaper should help, along with a little flux if you have any.

It's not the mechanical action per se, it's the electrical pulses (?) that make the light flicker, like what you would see if you put LEDs in any old game. Not noticeable with the backglass on.

#8 4 years ago

There was a broken wire that should have been attached at the relay. It wasnt easy to detect on visual, because it was still "attached" but it must have been only by a few strands as it wasnt showing continuity. I resoldered it back on and all is good. Thanks guys!

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from MarkG:

If mechanical vibrations make the light work that makes me suspicious of the socket. Corrosion often works its way between the socket barrel and the bracket which breaks the connection or makes it intermittent. Sometimes you can get the socket to work by twisting the barrel relative to the bracket. A better solution is to solder the two together:
[quoted image]
If you go the solder route, you'll need to give the solder good clean surfaces to bond to on both parts. A wire brush or sandpaper should help, along with a little flux if you have any.

Backbox sockets are tougher to do this on. I'd just replace them.

The flickering is ghosting which happens with LEDs unless you buy non ghosting LEDs.

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