And I'm in.....just picked up a HUO Safe Cracker today - now to go through it more thoroughly and see what needs tidying up....open to all ideas, tips and suggestions!
(Topic ID: 102277)
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Safe Cracker
Bally, 1996
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Bummer news....Paul replied that he sold his last set - just last week - and has zero plans to make anymore due to dwindling demand......Not sure where else to look - I doubt anyone bought an 'extra' set for any reason....if anyone has some ideas I'm open....
Hey Crackers......here's the deal - I spoke with Paul Drabik (Paul makes the SC playfield support rails) this afternoon and he asked if I could get a list of names together to gauge interest to make another run.....he's completely out of rails and will approach the machinist (whom according to Paul is very near retirement) to see if another run could be made (which could be THE last)......so if interested - simply reply and I'll collect the handles/names and tally them up for Paul and see what we got.
Quoted from Sonic:Hey Crackers......here's the deal - I spoke with Paul Drabik (Paul makes the SC playfield support rails) this afternoon and he asked if I could get a list of names together to gauge interest to make another run.....he's completely out of rails and will approach the machinist (whom according to Paul is very near retirement) to see if another run could be made (which could be THE last)......so if interested - simply reply and I'll collect the handles/names and tally them up for Paul and see what we got.
Paul rolled the dice and he's put in another order for more rails with his machinist!!!! So if you own a SC - take a good hard look at picking up a set - the PF has a simple design flaw and the PF will warp - these rails fix/prevent that....it's no different than a Cliffy/Mantis on the Bank hole or the lock ramp Y....so hit Paul up....there will be a time - when they just won't be viable to make anymore....
1 week later
I got a ramp protector - looking for the best way to remove the wireform to install it.....I'm sure there is a simpler way than I'm looking at.....thanks!
Quoted from joemagiera:So what's the story on the "win magic tokens" (WMT) topper? I read somewhere that the originals were just cardboard. Is that true? Wow, it's amazing any of them survive. I found repro decal/stickers for the WMT, for those of you that have used that, what did you mount it on? I'm guessing some custom cut clear plexi? Where/who/how did you get the plexi cut? Does anyone have any other solutions on this? Are there any WMT repros that come ready for mounting? i.e., already on a plexi or something? Thanks,
Joe (joemagiera at ameritech dot net)
[email protected]
Not really cardboard, a little more durable than that - but not terribly far off.....the L brackets that are used are available at Pinbits - thus getting the decal and then using Coroplast or similar would be the way to go....I don't think plexi is necessary......but certainly more durable....
Quoted from Sonic:I got a ramp protector - looking for the best way to remove the wireform to install it.....I'm sure there is a simpler way than I'm looking at.....thanks!
Just getting around to installing it today - it seems the left ramp has to be removed to facilitate removing the wireform that crosses over to the right ramp - is this the case? Got to be an easier way.....hopefully someone has an shortcut....thanks!
Quoted from Sonic:Just getting around to installing it today - it seems the left ramp has to be removed to facilitate removing the wireform that crosses over to the right ramp - is this the case? Got to be an easier way.....hopefully someone has an shortcut....thanks!
Figured I'd end up answering my own question....looks like the right ramp is the key....remove the nut in the back right corner, remove the 3 nuts up front by the coil - and loosen up the metal plate nuts on the ramp (all 4) and that should do enough to get the wireform out of the way to put the protector on....not too bad....next thing to figure out...why the stupid shooter rod rubs against the auto plunge mech - seems like a design flaw to me....
Quoted from jake35:Thanks guys. I manually moved the mechanism to release one on each side, and it still wasnt working (even when I went in to the test menu) so I factory reset the settings and it's working now, dispensing coins and credit dot gone. Not sure why but I guess maybe it somehow set itself to pay out credits instead of tokens. Cool little game. I replaced the rubbers (wouldnt be surprised if they were the original!), burned out bulbs and think I have it up and running 100% now.
Be sure to install a Mantis protector on the outhole (if it's in good condition, if not go Cliffy), a Cliffy ramp protector, Drabik's playfield support rails, and if the auto=plunger rubs the shooter rod (giggity) you simply drill a hole through the auto=plunger plate and add a screw into the playfield to reduce the gap that gets created....
1 week later
Got my rails from Paul Drabik in the mail yesterday and promptly installed....frankly - can't see owning a SC without them....my HUO SC had ~1/4" bow in the playfield......now, none.......well made, well machined parts - excellent instructions.....I followed the recommendation of replacing one outlane adjustable post washer with a smaller one and moved one pop bumper diode connection screw a little further over and the install was simple...recommend going slow - thinking it out - clamping and using long magnetic nut drivers.....also make sure to dimple properly and on center before driving the screws....thanks Paul!
1 week later
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:Big Thanks to Sonic!! providing me with over the phone advice , & tips that helped me get these installed over the weekend my game had quite a bit of warpage more than most perhaps nevertheless was able to get them clamped down & installed Very Pleased ...Great product! Thanks also to Paul Drabik for getting them made
Fantastic news! I knew you'd get it! Man was your's warped...1" of warp-age - crazy - mine was barely 1/4".....curious - did you notice any different gameplay - like I said - first few games, my son and I had to adjust our reaction time as the ball was coming down a bit faster than we were used to....just a few games - then we were adjusted....
Quoted from Cheeks:I have an old set of these that I never installed. I planned to put them on when I did a full disassembly shop of the game (which I haven't gotten to yet). It sounds like it's possible to install these while the playfield is still in the game? Is there any online documentation of the process?
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/installed-safe-cracker-pinball-support-rails/
Also, hit up Paul Drabik for a set on his instructions - which are detailed and flawless......
3 weeks later
Quoted from Sonic:Question....I just noticed that SC has unique flipper coils FL-20867's.....I found zero info on them....where do they sit in the strength chart? Anyone ever measure the resistance?
Best to answer my own question..... looks like FL-20867 is ~5.3/153.3 ohms....I couldn't find that referenced anywhere, so I measured....that said, it would seem from a strength field - this Williams flipper coil sits between the weak "green" FL-11722 and the standard "red" FL-11630. So if you like your playfield pitch higher, but still want to make it up the ramp - I guess one could use FL-11630's for a little more power (if that's what you wanted, not endorsing it)..... #safecracker
6 months later
Quoted from CNKay:Anyone?? I figured a club thread and I would get a response in a couple hours. Still looking for that S4 file. PM if you can help.
Take a look at this thread - maybe reach out to these guys to see their resolve? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/safe-cracker-sound-roms
1 month later
Quoted from hlaj78:I did clean the opto, but there wasn’t anything on it. When I run a ball over it at medium or slow speed, it does register. However, high speed balls almost seem to fly over and don’t register. I am thinking of bending the support bracket so that the opto comes up closer to the hole.
That's one place I've wanted to experiment with using an MRS instead of the opto - underneath the ramp - it seems to me it'd work better than an opto....but haven't tried yet....
2 weeks later
Quoted from mjenison:Ok, thanks to another Safecracker owner, my 15 year quest is nearly complete.
I only need the following domestic tokens:
1 Armored Truck
2 Burglar through Manhole
1 Dice
1 Hand w/Stop watch
I have other domestics or internationals (3 for 1) to trade.
Something to consider - don't know if these are domestic or international? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85669
1 month later
Quoted from jake35:Set of never installed support rails in the marketplace I listed if anyones interested.
I'm always shocked how many Safe Cracker owners either do not have them or have never heard of them - they are not a mod or a 'nice-to-have' for SC owners - they are an absolute necessity........
1 month later
Hey guys - just making a repro part announcement. We began making repro MRS' (as found in SC - there are 3 - in fact, 1st pin to have them) in mid-2019 - but only announced on the RFM page (they are handmade and didn't want to get overwhelmed with orders). We've been branching out more to other pin clubs that utilize this crazy unobtanium switch....the MRS stands for Magnetic Reed Switch - and they are also found in CV, NBAFB, NGG, SWEP1 and CC ...they went unobtanium half a dozen years ago or so - so my partner and I at M&M Creations decided to remake them. Our MRS is plug/play - it is lighter, thinner and more sensitive (which we've found is key when playfields have clear-coats applied!) than the original MRS. You can see a pic of the repro MRS solo and in a lineup with an original Williams MRS, a Sega MRS (used in Maverick, Space Jam and SW:Trilogy) and a repro M&M Creations MRS. My wait list was caught up recently and time to help more folks...just PM if interested!
Matt & Dan
MRS-R (resized).jpgmrs_compare (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from monkfe:looking for this title, if anyone is looking to sell...reach out....I have a nice TOM to trade too if that sparks any interest....
4 months later
Since it's the ball lock - I think a pinball going into a safe kind of graphic (I'm not an artist) - in the tone of the rest of the artwork - would be really nice.....
3 weeks later
Quoted from Green-Machine:Parts - For Sale
Safecracker NOS ramp (Red)
New!
New “Super delicious candy red safecracker ramp”
2 hours ago
Dayton, OH
250 (OBO)
Green-Machine
Can you get a closeup of the Y ....I don't see a protector with the ramp and it looks damaged?
Quoted from Green-Machine:[quoted image]nothing damaged. Cliffy protector? They don’t come with ramps that I’ve ever known[quoted image]
Yep...Cliffy has had them for years now... http://www.passionforpinball.com/scpro.htm
3 weeks later
Quoted from Khsjsilver:I am a new member of the Safe Cracker Club. This is actually my second Safe Cracker. I had one from 2007 to 2017. There was a short in my game that I could never diagnose. Change out the driver board multiple times. It was out of commission more than it worked. Finally got rid of the game and always regretted it. I’ve already done the Heat Shrink around the Lanyard (Maybe this is what was causing the short on my old game!). I do have a few questions:
1) Anyone know where I can get a set of Support Rails? I’ve contacted Paul Drabik and he no longer has any rails left.
2) My new game is missing the Rope Light. Can someone give me some details and send me a pic of where the Rope Light plugs in? I can’t find anything in the manual about it. I am looking for a replacement. I saw the multi-color one, but I think I might wait until I can find an “original” looking replacement.
3) My game still has the Version 1.1 Rom. Is it really worth upgrading to the Version 1.8?
Thanks for all your help.
Glad to be a Safe Cracker owner again.
Ken[quoted image]
#1 Paul is the guy - if you can't twist his arm - I'm not certain what you can do - he makes them from time to time - but he's the end all....
#2 Someone on here may know - I've not looked before
#3. Absolutely upgrade...yes...
2 weeks later
I like his decal, but I would have loved it to be a pinball 'launching' into a safe - would have made more sense I think...the whole ball 'lock' concept and all that...something like that...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I design to what the customer wants, and he thought the shooting gun worked with the overall theme. If you or anyone else would like an alternative design, I already have the shapes of the decals down so it would just be a matter of integrating the artwork you prefer.
Very cool! I may take you up on that....hopefully you didn't take my comment in a negative light - wasn't meant that way.....and good to know to the flexibility you have for decals.
1 month later
Quoted from marcmarasco:I'm thinking about buying a SC in the future. Are Paul's machined support rails un-obtainium at this point? If so can someone help me with a template or measurements to try to homebrew my own? With less than 2000 SCs in the wild, I'd feel really bad if I let one go saggy on my watch. Thanks. #safecracker
Hit him up...when I bought mine 2 years ago - he wasn't making them - but did a run when I got enough folks together to make it worthwhile...his are very well machined/engineered....
1 month later
Quoted from blubboman:Hi all
I have some Safe Cracker spinning disk decals and drop target decals. The spinning disk is $5 shipped (US) and a full set of drop target decals is $9 shipped (US). Full set $14 shipped. Let me know if you are interested.
[quoted image][quoted image]Added today: Hi all
I have some Safe Cracker spinning disk decals and drop target decals. The spinning disk is $5 shipped (US) and a full set of drop target decals is $12 shipped (US). Full set $17 shipped. Price change because I don't know how to count....
Let me know if you are interested.
Ahhhhh, the old 9 vs 12 drop target miscount....happens everytime!
3 months later
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/installed-safe-cracker-pinball-support-rails/
Paul Drabik here on Pinside is the maker... 
WannaPinball
Quoted from Babysha:thanks i sent him message. from what i understand the playfiled bent from the middle due to weight . what you think about 2 brackets inside cabinet , should do the job no ?
[quoted image]
Don't go your own route - buy Paul's solution - the reason is the weight, in part - it's also because WMS made the fatal flaw of cutting the wood rails topside...take a look again and you'll go - what the heck!
Matt
1 week later
Quoted from Babysha:i didn't have answer from WannaPinball
Visit here - he lists his number - just call him...
Matt
1 month later
wolftownjeff Domestic tokens are just under 30mm in diameter, and International is just over 30mm IIRC....there are no 35mm tokens that I'm aware of....
I'll bet these are International - the implication being they are arguably less 'desirable' (I don't share that view) than the original, and very rare, Domestic tokens...
1 month later
I'd suggest a mantis for the kickout (don't fool yourself) when you restore a playfield - mantis is the way to go....however, Cliffy makes the ramp protector - a must have. There is a coil-cover for the ball lock available - it makes things look nice - consider it. If your drop target decals and flat playfield spinner decal is needed - PM for those. Consider NVRAM of course.
Matt
1 month later
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Great thank you!! Yep. Have a new sticker to put on, but noticed the disc had a missing tooth so a new disc should be here tomorrow or Saturday from Marco!
Did you get the sticker from us?
Quoted from jetmechinnc:No, I bought the decal from pinball decals Inc. Do you have a link to your site so I can see what you offer?? Always interested in buying from different vendors to support the community. Especially since I always find myself restoring games from people around me more and more. Have done 7 full cabinet and playfield restorations/replacements so far this year!
Thank you,
Jason
Oh man Jason, we don't have a website as we sell only by word of mouth/testimonial - We primarily make MRS' - magnetic reed switches - as the 3 found in the Safe Cracker you are restoring. But we dabble in unobtainium stuff as well - and things that are ridiculously expensive that shouldn't be - like decals - so where you paid $15 for the dial decal (plus shipping) - we sell it for $5 ....shipped - the all of the drop target decals included - is a total of $17 shipped....we typically post (look at #474 here) in the club forums for the things we offer....
Matt
1 month later
Quoted from ruralcollector:Thanks for the guidance! Not a ribbon cable issue unfortunately. Dmd tests out fine in another machine and so does the ribbon cable. I installed the 1.8N roms on the MPU but left the original sound roms on the A/V board. I know on some machines if these don’t match it can cause problems, but I’m not finding any evidence of that for WPC95.
What happens when you put the old ROM back in?
Quoted from marioparty34:I am looking for some help.
My fuse 103 keeps blowing. I have traced it back to specifically the Violet/yellow wire on the left token mech. If I don't connect the violet/yellow wire, then everything works (with the exception of the left token coil of course). Once I plug it in, and run a coil test, POOF goes fuse 103.
I metered the coil (which showed 4.7 ohms) and I also swapped it with the right side one and the left side coil works just fine on the right side. So I know it's not the coil.
Any ideas? Not having a token shoot out makes it a duller game.
Thanks!
If the coil is removed - as you did - does the fuse still blow?
Then you want to go ahead and find the corresponding transistor to that coil and test it, it's likely that it is faulty.....
So, no, a transistor is not a diode - the transistor that drives that coil is on the Driver board - the biggest board in the backbox....there is a page titled Solenoid/Flasher table in the manual - that will tell you what connector (J-118) the coil runs through - the transistor number (q67) and the coil number (which is easy to read on the coil regardless)...since both coils share the same voltage on J135 - it's unlikey that's an issue - so I'd unplug J-118 to see if that continues the fuse to blow - this will eliminate anything outside of the driver board - and if that does blow the fuse - the transistor at Q67 is likely bad...and needs to be replaced..
Quoted from marioparty34:OK. Here is what I have done. I unplugged J-118 and everything works (all coils fire) with the exception of BOTH token coils (which I understand is to be expected) and the fuse 103 did not blow.
Then I tested Q67, and I had continuity. In fact, I tested all of the ones in the pic below. The circle is where I found Q67.
Did I find the right transistors to test? I am not sure what to do next. Thank you for all your help.
[quoted image]
You've narrowed it down....if J118 is removed (which only has the 2 token coils on it - so just 2 wires) and F103 doesn't blow - OR when you disconnect the violet/yellow wire from the left of the 2 coils going to J118...and F103 doesn't blow - that wire is shorted, the coil is still somehow bad or something mechanically is binding causing F103 to blow when that coil is activated? I'd test the wire to see if it's grounded (have both ends unplugged) and it has continuity between J118 and the spade connector at the coil (again both ends disconnected). If that's clear - you have something mechanically binding the coil causing it to blow....if that's not the case - then the coil is bad.....and I'd put the right coil on that side and see what happens....
Quoted from Sonic:You've narrowed it down....if J118 is removed (which only has the 2 token coils on it - so just 2 wires) and F103 doesn't blow - OR when you disconnect the violet/yellow wire from the left of the 2 coils going to J118...and F103 doesn't blow - that wire is shorted, the coil is still somehow bad or something mechanically is binding causing F103 to blow when that coil is activated? I'd test the wire to see if it's grounded (have both ends unplugged) and it has continuity between J118 and the spade connector at the coil (again both ends disconnected). If that's clear - you have something mechanically binding the coil causing it to blow....if that's not the case - then the coil is bad.....and I'd put the right coil on that side and see what happens....
And now that I've slept - do all those things - and if not...your TIP102 or TIP36 transistor must be bad such that when the circuit is complete....the fuse blows because those transistor(s) have gone bad - which is fairly common - and it looks as if your board has had some work done...
Matt
1 week later
Quoted from Cheeks:I'm not registering balls rolling through the 3 lane at the top. Are there replacements for the rollover lane proximity sensors? If so, how do you remove the existing ones? They seem glued in place.
Or is there something else I should test/check?
Here to help...PM sent....we are the current manufacturers of those switches...
Matt
M&M Creations
Quoted from Cheeks:I just want to point out here that Matt is AWESOME!
He sent me a PM after this post asking me to call him, so he could help me work through the problem. He then proceeded to spend an hour on the phone with me (not all of it was regarding the switch issue), telling me how to remove the switch (it's funky how they are even connected), how to test it, and 3 different ways to get the switch to work -- SO I WOULDN'T HAVE TO BUY A NEW ONE FROM HIM.
What kind of guy gives a sales pitch to NOT buy from him?
Bottom line, the switch worked, and I have it adjusted so that it functions in-game now. No need to buy a new switch, but Matt did earn a new customer. I'll be buying several switches to solve other issues in other games like R&M and Shadow.
Great guy (that knows WAY too much about magnetic switches - LOL) who was extremely generous with his time and willingness to help.
Thanks again Matt!
Makes me feel good to help....thanks for the kind words!
Merry Xmas!
Matt
M&M Creations
3 months later
Quoted from Babysha:by the way this is my fully restored safe cracker ! lot of hours spent...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What a fantastic restoration! Looks amazing......and thanks for the heads up on the backbox transistor fix...
Matt
8 months later
Let's see....
An original is ~29.80mm in diameter and ~2.18mm in thickness....the Texas token is ~2.12mm in thickness and ~30.12 mm in diameter...
I don't know what International size is....but those two are pretty damn close...the thickness is the same - well within measurement error...whereas the diameter has a little more discernable delta...but still .3mm....
I don't believe the Texas token could be considered International size...
Matt
IMG20221203205557 (resized).jpgIMG20221203205605 (resized).jpgAh the Seattle tokens...
~1.85mm in thickness...visibly thinner than Texas and the original - so much so that I could easily get the Texas and original to stand on end, but found great difficulty in getting the Seattle token to stand on end... ~30.05mm in diameter...identical to the Texas...bigger than the original....
I think that covers it? I'd reckon the Texas is closer in size to the original, just a tad bigger in diameter...the Seattle is thinner and bigger in diameter than original, but arguably closer to the Texas...
Oh, DropGems I have to say I think SC has an amazing degree of shots and diverse gameplay - I cringe when folks say novelty....I don't believe they've played it enough or owned one...those I know that own one (good luck now!) - tend to never let them go or hold on for a long time....
Matt
IMG20221204095129 (resized).jpgIMG20221204095138 (resized).jpgIMG20221204095144 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from someotherguy:Opinions? It's a rare enough game; leave it original. I personally believe mods like that which are a little bit more work to un-do detract from the value of the game. Same as customization on a car - you think you'll keep it forever, but we rarely do, and the time/money you put into the custom work does not net a return in value when you go to sell it. The next potential owner rarely sees the value that you saw in it.
You asked for opinions; there's mine.
Richard
I'm with Richard!
1 month later
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:I have a friend looking for a set of the Paul Drabik play field support rails if anyone has a lead. His play field needs them desperately.
WannaPinball is Paul's handle here!
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Richfield, MI
Montréal, QC
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