(Topic ID: 102277)

SafeCracker club ... dig up your coins!

By Pigjes

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 680 posts
  • 139 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 30 days ago by Santis
  • Topic is favorited by 56 Pinsiders

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#105 7 years ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

Just picked up a safe cracker. Great game.
One issue I've noticed on my game is the ball lock kicker (bottom of right ramp) tends to misfire (~weak hits), requiring usually two or three hits to get the ball up to the ball lock at the top. Anyone run into this before? Any luck fixing this by adjusting the sensor or realigning the kicker?

Yep. There is an easy fix for this.

The problem is that the ramp is too wide where the ball kicks up to the lock. When the kicker kicks, the ball isn't guided up smoothly as it just has too much space to move and rattles around. I took a piece of self adhesive foam stripping (1/4" thick) and placed it on the left side of the ramp between the kicker and where the crossover ramp enters. In the picture below you can see where it was placed. This effectively narrows that part of the ramp keeping the ball going straight. Works 100% on mine.

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2 weeks later
#121 7 years ago
Quoted from carbonROD:

Are SC cabs screen printed?
Pumped to have joined the club two weeks ago & feel like this game's worthy of a full restore. I've stripped the game & was ready to hit the cabinet with the heat gun to remove the original decals...but on closer inspection it appears the art's been screened directly on.
Was B/W screening cabs to the very end? I'm certain I'm not just looking at an amazingly well applied decal...

All WMS games were direct screen printed with the exception of a few games such as MB and CC. There are some exceptions (mainly backboxes) having decals applied to them for STTNG and RS. Early MB games did not use decals. You can do what you want, but I never remove original artwork and replace with a decal unless it was originally a decal.

1 year later
#265 5 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

also I have looked very carefully at all the dispenser mechs & they work fine when the coil rod is moved manually on either side to dispense a coin from the tube

Go to switch edge test and run the switches by hand to see if they register. That will clear the credit dots. Put tokens in the tubes and run coil test for right and left tube dispenser coils.

#269 5 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

I do not have a manual for the game

Make sure your coin door is closed during the coil tests or you are pushing in the white door buttons with one hand while using the black/red diagnostic buttons with the other or none of the coils will fire.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3782

The manual is under documentation just above the pictures. The coil test is under tests...usually test T4. The tube test is T18.

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