(Topic ID: 102277)

SafeCracker club ... dig up your coins!


By Pigjes

5 years ago



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  • 386 posts
  • 98 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 48 days ago by marioparty34
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

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#65 4 years ago

Hi. New to the club (very late last year).

Can someone with a domestic (US) machine take a photo of their A-20949 coin door interface board? If there is a connector on J6 (ECA COIN DOOR) can you describe where that goes?

I picked up a re-import with a single coin slot. I replaced the door with a new double coin slot door but discovered that the A-20949 board had been hacked. Someone had cut out the W2, W3 and W4 jumpers and directly connected from a (thru board hole) point from J5-4 to J13-2 (with a jumper wire) enabling "LT COIN 1" to trigger "COIN 5" (token coin slot).

Cutting W3 disabled "RT COIN 3" and that coin switch no longer registers. I put a jumper back in W3 and restored that but I'd like to know how a domestic machine is wired so I can mimic that functionality. The schematic says W2, W3 and W4 are in. If I read the schematic correctly that indicates that J6-1 ("COIN 1") will trigger "COIN 5". I didn't think a domestic door had a connector for J6 (ECA COIN DOOR). Hence the ask for a photo.

#67 4 years ago

Thanks. The information on that page is great! It definitely reinforced my understanding. It also shows a photo with W1, W2 and W3 in.

Can someone with a US machine confirm that this is the configuration they have (a simple photo of the board inside the machine showing the components)?

If this is the case then, without some other jumper wire or a connection to J4-3 (or J13-2) somewhere, I don't see how "COIN 5" becomes closed for the software to register the token. The easiest points for connection are W4, W5 and W6. I'm trying to restore the board to US factory configuration. Please note I have mechanical (cradle) token mechanism (not an electronic coin validator).

9 months later
#106 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

I just picked one up, it was a static display in a museum, so looks in very good shape, and came with wings and tokens.
It's apparently the prototype version with red PCBs. I also noticed it has no roll-over switches, it's all proximity/ball sensors. Is this how all the prototypes were? It doesn't seem to be standard for all SC as I saw a few pics with traditional switches.
I've only played a few times so far, has a few small issues to clean up. I'm looking forward to load the tubes and and see if it all works, has the original token coin slot too. I've never played assault the vault before...

Nice score! Would be interested in seeing the differences. Mine is in pieces in totes and the cabinet is bare. If you have issues and want some local help feel free to PM me.

#109 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

How come yours is in pieces? It looked good at the NWPAS, and playing it helped move it up my wish list.

It was all original (not a bad thing and in great condition) but didn't look like it had been given a good clean in a while. It also had some minor issues (probably not easily noticed) but I am fussy about performance and playability. I also wanted to put LEDs in it. The playfield has some clear coat left on it but I wanted to add some more and make it outlast me! I'm particularly bugged by working on a machine and having black fingers after doing so.

#117 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

I've been getting to know my Safe Cracker and noticed another small issue. The "insert" (or what is it actually, a piece of wood?) under the 3 in the upper drop-lanes has risen, enough to catch a slow ball sometimes. Can I heat it up like a plastic insert to push it down? Does it require a lot of force, will I need to clamp it? Anyone had to do this?

Sorry. I got the PM you sent. I spent the better part of the middle of the day trying to fix that stupid HFT 5lb vibratory tumbler. I bought the 18lb one and it's FAR better built IMHO. That 5lb is a P-O-S. But I digress ...

Those are reed switches. Mine is also raised but not enough to catch a ball. I haven't determined what course of action I'll take but it'll likely level with the clear coat I intend to put on the playfield.

4 months later
#142 3 years ago
Quoted from jfh:

On an unrelated note, if anyone is interested in an NOS head assembly (the entire unit that pulls down in the backbox with tubes/boards/DMD etc.) I have one I'm not going to use that I'd sell.

I think butch2099 was looking for the tubes. Not sure if that's still the case.

2 months later
#194 2 years ago

Just finishing another Safe Cracker. This is a pre-teaser to the teaser I'll be posting in the 2017 Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show thread in the week prior to the show. The pictures here are more relevant to the club members - particularly those asking about the clear ramps. The game plays really well. I only ever got about 6 million once in Assault on the Vault for the other machine but this one I got 7 million the other day and then 8 million today (including TWO assaults from all sides)! The only issue with it is the token tubes don't dispense. I didn't clean the token dispensers but due to this failure I was forced to disassemble and clean the dispenser. I'll be re-installing the dispenser tomorrow (or in the next couple of days) and ensuring it dispenses tokens correctly. I'll have another photo of the tubes in about a weeks time.

Here are a selection (I don't take too many photos reassembling machines as I'm more interested in getting the next thing assembled) of the photos during reassembly.

For those of you who want to see this in person it's likely the ramps will only be installed for this year. Subsequent years will have the original ramps reinstalled. I wired my own harness on the ramps so swapping them out will be relatively easy - just swap the hardware (metal parts). For those interested in doing this I did hit a few snags as the new ramps are slightly thicker than the originals and the lockup mechanism gave me some grief (I had to shim the lockup release mechanism to get it to correctly detect locked balls).

I also installed those translucent bumper bodies that Zitt sells. I have another three I want to put into another (different) machine but I don't think I'll be using them again. Who knows though? They may grow on me.

This machine has (and still has to some degree in places) a LOT of corrosion and large patches of rust. I cleaned off all the rust. I pretty much replaced every fastener with preferably a stainless version or if magnetism was required a new zinc-plated fastener. I also installed the Paul Drabik support rails. The playfield only had slight bowing but it's straight now.

Enjoy!!!

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2 weeks later
#201 2 years ago

This was originally posted in the NW Pinball and Arcade Show thread. You won't likely see this quantity of tokens in token tubes.

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1 week later
#208 2 years ago

I think there are only a few ways to add a vault letter in normal play. A Candy 2000 code (such as PML or MOO), a cellar award and random awards from mysteries in the board game. There may be others.

In assault on the vault getting assaults from all sides awards vault letters. One letter for each assault from all sides. I usually only get one from all sides but I have had one game where I got two all sides.

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