Is the transistor the same thing as a diode? There is no diode on my coil. And when I swapped both coils its always the left side that doesn't work. Is the transistor on the board?

So, no, a transistor is not a diode - the transistor that drives that coil is on the Driver board - the biggest board in the backbox....there is a page titled Solenoid/Flasher table in the manual - that will tell you what connector (J-118) the coil runs through - the transistor number (q67) and the coil number (which is easy to read on the coil regardless)...since both coils share the same voltage on J135 - it's unlikey that's an issue - so I'd unplug J-118 to see if that continues the fuse to blow - this will eliminate anything outside of the driver board - and if that does blow the fuse - the transistor at Q67 is likely bad...and needs to be replaced..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-test-transistors

OK. Here is what I have done. I unplugged J-118 and everything works (all coils fire) with the exception of BOTH token coils (which I understand is to be expected) and the fuse 103 did not blow.

Then I tested Q67, and I had continuity. In fact, I tested all of the ones in the pic below. The circle is where I found Q67.

Did I find the right transistors to test? I am not sure what to do next. Thank you for all your help.

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You've narrowed it down....if J118 is removed (which only has the 2 token coils on it - so just 2 wires) and F103 doesn't blow - OR when you disconnect the violet/yellow wire from the left of the 2 coils going to J118...and F103 doesn't blow - that wire is shorted, the coil is still somehow bad or something mechanically is binding causing F103 to blow when that coil is activated? I'd test the wire to see if it's grounded (have both ends unplugged) and it has continuity between J118 and the spade connector at the coil (again both ends disconnected). If that's clear - you have something mechanically binding the coil causing it to blow....if that's not the case - then the coil is bad.....and I'd put the right coil on that side and see what happens....

And now that I've slept - do all those things - and if not...your TIP102 or TIP36 transistor must be bad such that when the circuit is complete....the fuse blows because those transistor(s) have gone bad - which is fairly common - and it looks as if your board has had some work done...

Matt

I tested the violet/yellow wire and it had continuity. I had also swapped the coils so I know the coil is good since it worked on the other side. I am able to move the coin plate quite easily so I don't think it is mechanically binding. I will report back on the TIP102 and TIP36 in a few hours. Thanks again. I feel like we are getting close to discovering the issue.

So I tested Q67 (it's a TIP36C), Red lead on top, and black lead to each of the 3 legs. I am pretty sure that is the right way to do it.

All three legs give me a continuity sound. Is that good or bad?

Huge thanks to Sonic for helping me pinpoint the culprit. I have a bad TIP36C. Going to send the board off tomorrow for repair.

My knowledge is so limited in these type of issues, but I did learn a ton with his help.

So why stop there? Wouldn't you want to try and repair it yourself?

Good point. Just not enough confidence to do it. Baby steps for me. The troubleshooting process of determining the issue expanded by knowledge of how the board works. Just because I know what needs to be done, doesn't mean I have the skill to do it. As of now, I think board work should be left to those more experienced than me. I don't mind trying and failing, but I would rather not tackle what is required for this project as my first project.

I assume you could teach me the finer details of the repair?

While replacing a transistor is a pretty simple process, if you're not experienced with soldering work on electronics then I would not let this be my first project. You want to learn on boards that are worthless.. find some scrap electronics boards and just practice removing and replacing components on them. There's bound to be tons of youtube videos dedicated solely to teaching people how to solder. A minimal investment in good equipment is necessary, too; you don't want to work on an expensive/somewhat delicate board with cheap junk (non-temp-controlled iron for example) and damage it making repairs far more difficult.

So on one hand I would discourage you from jumping right in on your SC's boards, but DO encourage you (if you have an interest) in looking into learning this skill as it will serve you well in your pinball hobby.

Richard

I am all for learning. Maybe my secret Santa can send me some crappy boards to work on. I have already ordered a better DMM as the one I have is really cheap. I also need to get a better soldering iron as well. Any recommendations?

I noticed this in the market place and thought it might benefit someone in the club if they didn't notice it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/125786

I'm not registering balls rolling through the 3 lane at the top. Are there replacements for the rollover lane proximity sensors? If so, how do you remove the existing ones? They seem glued in place.

Or is there something else I should test/check?

Here to help...PM sent....we are the current manufacturers of those switches...

Matt
M&M Creations

I just want to point out here that Matt is AWESOME!

He sent me a PM after this post asking me to call him, so he could help me work through the problem. He then proceeded to spend an hour on the phone with me (not all of it was regarding the switch issue), telling me how to remove the switch (it's funky how they are even connected), how to test it, and 3 different ways to get the switch to work -- SO I WOULDN'T HAVE TO BUY A NEW ONE FROM HIM.

What kind of guy gives a sales pitch to NOT buy from him?

Bottom line, the switch worked, and I have it adjusted so that it functions in-game now. No need to buy a new switch, but Matt did earn a new customer. I'll be buying several switches to solve other issues in other games like R&M and Shadow.

Great guy (that knows WAY too much about magnetic switches - LOL) who was extremely generous with his time and willingness to help.

Thanks again Matt!

Talking people out of buying from you (when they don't need the item) is a good business practice that not many actually practice. I've been that guy in the truck parts business. It feels good when you earn people's trust by simply being honest.

Richard

Makes me feel good to help....thanks for the kind words!

Merry Xmas!

Matt
M&M Creations

Just an idea, would anyone want to trade their Safe Cracker for a Hot Wheels loaded with less than 260 plays?

Pm me if interested.

Happy Holidays everyone.

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Happy new year!
Rope lights in stock, ready to ship

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Hey Guys, I was hoping someone might have some insight to help me get my ropelight going in my game. I picked up one of the lights from Babysha, and he was fast and friendly in helping me trouble shoot the problem, but I was unable to get my issue resolved, so I was hoping to get some ideas from here. I installed the light in my game, but it only turns on very dim. I checked my voltage and I am at ~19v from my 20v line. The ropelight is 24v with a +/- 10% range. I am out of range. I saw there are little step up converters available on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-Adapter-Vehicle-DC9-20V/dp/B01EFUHFW6/ref=sr_1_3

I was wondering if i could install one, and it would get the light the power it needs.

Thanks,
Aaron

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Help!! Where does this plastic go?

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to let people know...problem was fixed with converter btw. Voltage was too low from powerboard

Right below the drop targets and left of the pop.
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Hi all,

I need the following domestic tokens:

1 Armored Truck
2 Burglar through Manhole
1 Dice

I have other domestics I can exchange or internationals (3 for 1) to trade. Will pay shipping.

Hi, i have some stuck on lights on the backbox boar ( always same). I replaced all 4094 but no changes. Any idea ?

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it was 2N6426 transistors to change .... x9 ! this happened when i badly connected the J1 connector....

by the way this is my fully restored safe cracker ! lot of hours spent...

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What a fantastic restoration! Looks amazing......and thanks for the heads up on the backbox transistor fix...

Matt

So Jealous!

Is that the original rope light?

I bought a replacement rope light many years ago that was more white. I liked the golden rope light better, but thought maybe it had just yellowed over time.

it's amber rope light i sell ,
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1344-shashop/05330-rope-light-safe-cracker

Excellent. Play at https://richcasino365.com/ with the best promotions and good chances to win most games!

Pretty psyched to get an original topper for my machine today. Happy to see a piece of cardboard from 1996 survive.

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Where/how did you get that? Willing to say the price for it? I'm looking for one myself. Has this item been repro'ed?

I got it from a very generous pinsider for $20. eBay has repos at around $45 made out of plastic.

Hey all, happy to be posting here as I recently received my freshly restored SC. After finally making it to Assault the Vault I discovered one small problem. I would get random tilt warnings including occasional "slam tilts" as the balls were firing - never able to finish AtV before too many tilts.
I have narrowed it down to when there is a ball sitting in the B lane scoop AND a ball is in the shooter lane at the same time - it will always tilt. This can also be replicated during regular game play when I put a ball in the scoop and manually depress the shooter lane switch.
I'm a newbie when it comes to diagnosing problems with pins so any advice on how to start trouble shooting this would be welcomed.

Forgot to mention that this will also often times add players to the game. So after a couple tilts and ball is over there will be a player 2, 3, etc.

I restored this pin and for some reason didn't have this happen during test play. Do people agree this sounds like a ground fault switch error where 3 switches are triggered at the same time and causing the issues he is having that? What would be the best way for him to diagnose the offending switch?

We talked about some trouble shooting and op found the switch to the B lane scoop was wired incorrectly and the diode was reversed. He switched that out and everything seems to be working correctly now.

Thank you for all the help!

Does anyone know if the brackets for the topper sign are available for sale anywhere ?

I could use a set of those also

I used these brackets from Home Depot. They work and they are cheap. See a pic below. Ignore the back paper I have taped to the side of the backbox. I get a lot of sunlight on that side of the pin and I do this to avoid fading.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-Black-Corner-Brace-4-Pack-13741/300985591

Hope this helps.

Ken

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Hey all, i am in the process of building my Safe Cracker.
I have a complete playfield, a new cabinet, all the boards and a partially assembled translite board.
What am I missing ?
The complete token chute area is missing: basic brackets, token chute, etc. Does anyone have parts lying around, or could someone disassemble the brackets and send me the dimensions so that I can have the brackets made?

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Happy birthday Amanda and Ryan!

Purchased an amazing armored truck from mjenison for my Safe Cracker, which I painted to try to match the design on one of the tokens (including the light on top -- tied in to the flasher circuit). What a great mod!

https://media.giphy.com/media/NNWJgPLUahw2fBOlYD/giphy.gif

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Has anyone reproduced the "Win Magic Tokens" topper? I see one place in Germany selling them. Would prefer to get one in the USA if possible. I see Treasure Cove has a decal, but I'd still need to get the black background to mount the decal. Any feedback on Treasure Cove's product? Anyone else know of one?

Or on a long shot, anyone selling one, repro or original?

Joe