Well I never got my Safe Cracker after all of these years.
I have 17 tokens and time to sell them.
I was ready to sell them on E-bay but thought I should check here for any interest first.
Guy on ebay selling for $10+$5 shipping.
I have the following but really want to sell them as a set:
I am open to offers and if they sell here I will make a donation to Pinside.
Thanks for any advice and offers.

1. 1 ea. Large Satellite Dish
2. 1 ea. Sleeping Guard
3. 1 ea. Fist full of Dollars
4. 2 ea. Bally Token-Pin
5. 3 ea. Hand pushing button
6. 2 ea. Getaway Truck
7. 2 ea. Armor Car
8. 3 ea. Stop Watch,2 may be antiqued.
9. 1 ea. Guard with Doughnut
10. 1 ea. Pair of Dice

IMG-4034 (resized).jpg

IMG-4035 (resized).jpg

IMG-4036 (resized).jpg

IMG-4037 (resized).jpg

Are those standard tokens or international tokens? They are slightly different sized.

The tokens are all the same size.
These ended up being 2.98 mm.
Thanks for the comments!

wolftownjeff Domestic tokens are just under 30mm in diameter, and International is just over 30mm IIRC....there are no 35mm tokens that I'm aware of....

I'll bet these are International - the implication being they are arguably less 'desirable' (I don't share that view) than the original, and very rare, Domestic tokens...

Hi, i have few rope light to sell + connector. It's 3 wires Led color Amber. Price 65$ + shipping from Spain

236812898_562543121597831_2526877047563474407_n (resized).jpg236864652_379461370425933_7465953180048187068_n (resized).png237042174_558266332029986_8202534423047749622_n (resized).jpg

Hello, does someone have the orginal cards ( rules etc) apron ? i don't find it anywhere . Thanks

Don’t forget to add a RPM coin to your collection.

The joy is real.

B336F55D-EB93-4A1D-B914-92A31F169C94 (resized).jpeg

I'm happy to be joining the SC club soon! Found a very nice example that is currently getting a refresh/restoration but I had a couple questions that I hoped you all would have the answers to.
- Clear ramps - are they available from any sources other than Mad? How do they look in person? I get it's personal taste but I have never seen an SC with clear ramps in person.
- GI OCD - does it fit and does it have any benefits? I'm not concerned about the power-saving dimming after the game sits on for a while but if it dims during gameplay and it physically fits on the board I'd do it.
- Sound upgrade - Any suggestions? Been a while since I've played one of these but if there's some benefit to better speakers/amp on this machine I'm interested.
Thanks!

Congrats on joining the club soon!

- I have a set of NOS clear ramps. I got them years ago for my restoration but never put them in. DM me if you are interested.
- I have one in mine. I am not sure I have noticed a huge difference as in some other games like RBION.
- Since it's a smaller cabinet, I did not upgrade my speakers. I personally do not think you need to.

Curious to hear other folk's thoughts.

- PM sent on ramps.
- maybe Ill go with just LED OCD for now. Thanks for the tip.
- I enjoy good sound on a pinball if achievable. Pinsound doesn't have any mixes for SC so thats probably overkill. Maybe ill try a Flipper Fidelity kit. Not having the machine to look at here, would there be any issues with space for the deeper speakers in the back box?
Any other suggested adds on a SC restore? Playfield is getting cleared, new support rails, and a new rope light going in among other things. I think Ill keep cliffys/mantis out for now as this isn't going to get played very hard in my house and the playfield has beautiful edges on all its scoops & kickouts.

I'd suggest a mantis for the kickout (don't fool yourself) when you restore a playfield - mantis is the way to go....however, Cliffy makes the ramp protector - a must have. There is a coil-cover for the ball lock available - it makes things look nice - consider it. If your drop target decals and flat playfield spinner decal is needed - PM for those. Consider NVRAM of course.

Matt

I put Pinwoofer sound in mine. The quality is very good, service is great. And I hear many of the sound effects much clearer now. Love the upgrade!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/safecracker-club-dig-up-your-coins/page/3#post-3525404
this 3D printed bank to cover the metal ramp.

Thanks to marioparty34 for letting his clear ramp set go!

I found out that the restorer already had all of these things with the machine but thank you for the response.

Might be overkill on an SC but I pulled the trigger on a Pinwoofer.

Nice. Does anyone do custom painting on this or the original bank? I vaguely remember seeing them painted up somewhere. Might look nice having the details highlighted on both.

For anyone looking for a Rope Light, I purchased one of these and it worked great!!

Ken

Here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Bally/Bally_Safecracker_instruction_cards.zip

thank you !!

See post #345.

Hey all, i sold all rope light but i still have requests. If i have 3/4 more. i could launch a new set , just pm if you are interested ( and not hurry)

Got the rope light installed & works great!

73B2A402-904D-4DA0-968C-ACC80E55F5E1 (resized).jpeg

…but taking the old one out was TUFF! Like wrestling an anaconda from a mouse hole!

Anyone want it for parts? About 70% of it still works.

662FCF08-F68D-4E0F-B475-415CBFC0D1AF (resized).jpeg

It may seem like overkill, I removed the whole panel and took it apart when I changed my ropelight. A bit more work but easy and straightforward

I need some help and it's driving me crazy.

When I go to solenoid tests, both the right and left will dispense a token. But when I go to token test, it fails. I hear a sound like it's trying to engage the coil but nothing happens. No token is dispensed. However this only happens when the slider is on the left. It will not pull right to release the coin. If I setup it up so that the slider is on the right, the token will be released.

I don't understand how it can dispense a coin from both tubes under solenoid test, but not when I do a token test specifically when the slider is on the left.

Please help. What am I missing?

Update: Just loosen the coil stops a little and fixed it.

Glad that fixed it. Verify you have the new coil stops issued for this game to fix the problem, and not the originals.

Anyone looking for a replacement Safecracker playfield?

Got one as a plan for wall art, then realized no wall space for the art.

Feel free to PM for pics and such.

I am pretty sure I do. My coil stops have conic indentions in them vs having flat tops. Are
those the correct ones? Do you have a part number?

I have some safecracker lockdown bars the top shell NOS

I'm glad you like it ! and to see that it's in your beautiful place

Working on finish up restoring this cool pin. Quick question, is this downward facing lamp a flasher bulb? Not seeing it in the manual, or just missing it. I’ve put LEDs in the rest of the game. Just want to be sure about this one.

Thank you!

image (resized).jpg

Yes, #906 flasher (or equivalent). There should be a shiny/holo sticker on the wheel that the flasher shines on when you spin it.

Great thank you!! Yep. Have a new sticker to put on, but noticed the disc had a missing tooth so a new disc should be here tomorrow or Saturday from Marco!

Did you get the sticker from us?

No, I bought the decal from pinball decals Inc. Do you have a link to your site so I can see what you offer?? Always interested in buying from different vendors to support the community. Especially since I always find myself restoring games from people around me more and more. Have done 7 full cabinet and playfield restorations/replacements so far this year!
Thank you,
Jason

Oh man Jason, we don't have a website as we sell only by word of mouth/testimonial - We primarily make MRS' - magnetic reed switches - as the 3 found in the Safe Cracker you are restoring. But we dabble in unobtainium stuff as well - and things that are ridiculously expensive that shouldn't be - like decals - so where you paid $15 for the dial decal (plus shipping) - we sell it for $5 ....shipped - the all of the drop target decals included - is a total of $17 shipped....we typically post (look at #474 here) in the club forums for the things we offer....

Matt

Hi all , i'm going to make wings for my safe cracker , can someone give me the exact dimensions please ? ( this pic is from youtube )
thanks in advance

Capture d’e?cran 2021-11-11 a? 19.41.47 (resized).png

Start with checking the position of the flatcables.

Sorry for the late reply.

26 1/4" x 10"

Ken

did you try reverse the cable ? red line on opposite side on both sides? if something change it's certainly the cable

What happens when you put the old ROM back in?

Someone sell me your Safecracker.

20191202_211901 (resized).jpg

.

I am looking for some help.

My fuse 103 keeps blowing. I have traced it back to specifically the Violet/yellow wire on the left token mech. If I don't connect the violet/yellow wire, then everything works (with the exception of the left token coil of course). Once I plug it in, and run a coil test, POOF goes fuse 103.

I metered the coil (which showed 4.7 ohms) and I also swapped it with the right side one and the left side coil works just fine on the right side. So I know it's not the coil.

Any ideas? Not having a token shoot out makes it a duller game.

Thanks!

If the coil is removed - as you did - does the fuse still blow?

If I remove the coil, nothing blows.

As long as I don't connect the violet/yellow wire to the coil everything else works perfectly and fuse 103 stays good.

Here is a pic of the culprit. Once I plug it on the coil and run a solenoid test, it blows. If I unplug, the game plays fine, all other coils work. Swapping the coils also did not make a difference.

1638936765981720601716315196190 (resized).jpg

Then you want to go ahead and find the corresponding transistor to that coil and test it, it's likely that it is faulty.....

Can you please tell me how I find the transistor to the coil? I am a newbie when it comes to the electric stuff. And how do I test it?

Thank you for your help.