(Topic ID: 211888)

RZ coil fuses blowing

By sulakd

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by PinChatt
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 6 years ago

My Rob Zombie has been down for about two weeks. Spooky support has given me things to try, but nothing worked. I'm on software version 23beta, which I was running for a few weeks before issues started. Basically, if I turn on the machine and start a game, using either flipper (even before plunging) blows the fuse associated with that solenoid bank. I ordered 3a slow blow fuses from pinball life, which are supposed to be correct fuses. I also took an original 3a slow blow from elsewhere in the game just to be sure, and it blew after a three flips. The pinball life slow blows are single-wire style while the originals in the game are the coiled looking fuses. But like I said, I tried an original coiled style and it blew too.

I measured resistance at the flipper coils. There's three lugs on each. For the left coil, left to center was 5 ohm (this one was really hard to get a reading on, really had to poke the probes into just the right spot to get any reading), center to right was 130ohms, left to right was 127ohms. For the right flipper, left to center 4.6 ohm, center to right 132 ohm, left to right 128 ohm. Checked all other coils and they're in the 5-6 or 12-13 range. Does it matter where I probe them when I'm checking? I'm just probing the solder bulbs or trying to poke the wires directly when needed. Also, does it matter that those two fuses are burnt out while checking the resistance?

#2 6 years ago

The PinHeck board in this game works exactly the same as most Wms, Stern, DE, etc... only 3 parts to the chain and a fuse popping means 1 of 4 things.

Bad coil (like a hold winding), bad diode, bad mosfet, or perhaps a wire shorting out.

You just need to isolate to the exact coil causing the problem. Use the wiring / board chart found on our website to help isolate the culprit: http://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

The PinHeck board in this game works exactly the same as most Wms, Stern, DE, etc... only 3 parts to the chain and a fuse popping means 1 of 4 things.
Bad coil (like a hold winding), bad diode, bad mosfet, or perhaps a wire shorting out.
You just need to isolate to the exact coil causing the problem. Use the wiring / board chart found on our website to help isolate the culprit: http://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/

Thank you. But the left flipper blows one Sol bank and the right flipper blows the other. They're on separate Sol banks. And my resistance readings posted above seem good if I'm doing it right. What's the next step I should try?

#4 6 years ago

So tech support's suggestion is to buy new coils. Can someone help me narrow it down so I don't have to replace every coil? And is that even likely to help? The left flipper blows Solenoid bank 1 and the right flipper blows Solenoid bank 2. Is it really likely that I'm looking for a bad coil as the root of that problem?

#5 6 years ago

There are a few things you can test or replace before the coils. First because the fuses arent blowing immediately upon starting a game, but only after using the flippers the mosfets on the board are probably not shorted on. You can look on pinwiki for how to test with a meter to make sure.

So even though you are showing good resistance at the flippers you could still have a bad winding. To have it on both flippers is fairly unlikely but it could happen. If after testing the mosfets on the board they look ok, change the diodes on the flippers.

Report your findings and we can take it from there.

#6 6 years ago

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I should have said this before, but one of the things I tried was firing the coils in the test menu. When I do that, they do NOT blow the fuses.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I should have said this before, but one of the things I tried was firing the coils in the test menu. When I do that, they do NOT blow the fuses.

Are you able to "test" the flippers repeatedly in the test menu (simulating a "flip-flip-flip-hold-flip-etc). E.g. are they demonstratably working fine in test but not in gameplay?

#8 6 years ago

No, I can't do a 'hold' but I fired each flipper about ten times rapidly, and it does not blow the fuses in the test menu. Each flipper coil has a menu item for high and low. Spooky told me the low is for hold. If I manually hold a flipper in the up position I'm supposed to be able to use the low test, but I can't get it to do anything other than kinda pulse a little bit.

I put new fuses in again just now, pulled glass, started a game, plunged ball, and rolled ball around firing all of the coils (slings, pops, vuk). All coils fired except the right slingshot. It does fire in test and it looks like I have a broken switch wire. Confirmed it's not grounding/shorting. Then I tried the flippers, and the right flipper blows the Sol 2 fuse and the left flipper blows the Sol 1 fuse.

Machine is HUO with 292 plays. My only NIB, and I'm not really sure what kinds of things should be getting worn out at this point.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

So tech support's suggestion is to buy new coils.

Did you call Chris at King Pin Games ?

LTG : )

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#10 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you call Chris at King Pin Games ?
LTG : )

Yes, I've been emailing with him for the past week. I came here to see if anyone had any other ideas. I don't know enough to understand how the flippers can fire fine in the test menu but immediately blow their respective fuses when a game is running. It must have something to do with the high-low functions, as only the high is really being tested in the solenoid test.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

I came here to see if anyone had any other ideas. I don't know enough to understand how the flippers can fire fine in the test menu but immediately blow their respective fuses when a game is running.

In test they may be the only thing drawing power. In game play, something else is sapping power.

LTG : )

#12 6 years ago

Is it possible to reload the operating system ? Maybe yours got corrupted ?

LTG : )

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is it possible to reload the operating system ? Maybe yours got corrupted ?
LTG : )

There's an SD card for updating software. I'll try reinstalling the software and report back. Thanks.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

There are a few things you can test or replace before the coils. First because the fuses arent blowing immediately upon starting a game, but only after using the flippers the mosfets on the board are probably not shorted on. You can look on pinwiki for how to test with a meter to make sure.
So even though you are showing good resistance at the flippers you could still have a bad winding. To have it on both flippers is fairly unlikely but it could happen. If after testing the mosfets on the board they look ok, change the diodes on the flippers.
Report your findings and we can take it from there.

Looks like two diodes on each flipper. Can I just unsolder one end of each diode and check with a dmm?

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from sulakd:

There's an SD card for updating software. I'll try reinstalling the software and report back. Thanks.

Since you are running a beta release of v23, I’d suggest rolling back to v22 when you reinstall.

#16 6 years ago

I had this problem out of the box, king pin told me to buy new coils. I ended up fixing it, pm me and we can chat about it on the phone, I'm on my phone now and don't want to type it up..

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

Since you are running a beta release of v23, I’d suggest rolling back to v22 when you reinstall.

So I asked tech support about this initially and explained that I was on 23beta for at least a couple weeks with no issues, and I never got an answer as to whether this could be a software issue. I just rolled back to v22 . . . and game is up and running again! Unfortunately, the reason I went to v23beta is because the ball-drain error makes v22 unplayable on my machine (I know some others don't have an issue or seem to have it occur less frequently, but it was crashing my machine almost every game). I'll ride it hard tonight on v22 and see if maybe just reinstalling that version has made it any better as far as that error on my machine. Since V23 worked for a couple weeks then started acting funny (corrupted, i think LTG said), maybe something similar was going on with my v22 when I had it installed initially. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

8 months later
#18 5 years ago

I've got a very similar problem with Domino's Spectacular Pinball Adventure. This is also a Spooky PinHeck system game. I've had this game for about 5 months now and it just started blowing the fuse for solenoid bank 1. The left flipper and two scoops are on that bank. No problems with the right flipper at all. I can put a new fuse in and hit all the coils on bank 1 as many times as I want in the solenoid test and it never blows the fuse. But once I start a game, it blows the fuse after 5 flips or so. The coils on both left and right flippers measure the same resistance (4 ohms on the high side and 128 ohms on the low side). I have never updated the code on this game since I've had it. I was going to go ahead and order a new coil, but now I'm wondering if this is caused by corrupted code.

BTW, the fuses that Pinball Life sells as slow-blow are GMC series fuses. Those are actually a medium time delay fuse. The original fuse that was used in these games are GMD series, which is a longer time delay fuse. The only place I've found that carries them is DigiKey.

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