Quoted from ian866:Just to be clear, you'd removed the connectors but the cable ties are still in place ?
Correct. Several hours of play after the connector was removed, and more the next day. I was playing a bunch since it was so nice not having to worry anymore, or so I thought.
But I left the zip ties on the motor leads, assuming that any damage was already done there, and if not, we would see, and see we did! Although I doubt it would have made a difference in the long run...
Quoted from Peak-Pin:If your Node 10 is still good, then maybe the motor wires themselves are the issue... maybe the wires are truly broken. You can check using an ohm meter. With power off and motor unplugged from node board, you should measure 9.2 ohms between the red and blue wires and 9.2 ohms between the black and green.
Sorry it took me so long to check, but maybe this is worth the wait!: The wires are NOT broken! Both sides still measure about 10 ohms from the board connector.
And my Node 10 board is still alive and flashing, which explains the game not complaining. Apparently just the motor driver chip got toasted, I figure from gradually overloading due to those stretched, not quite broken wires.
I suppose everyone removing the overtightened zip ties would relieve the pressure on the insulation and smoosh the stretched wires back together some, but I'm afraid that would only be forestalling the inevitable. Now I really think the thing to do is to cut the motor leads off entirely from the first zip tie on, and splice in new wires.
If it is true that the clock uses the same motor and they are also zip tied too hard, logically the same thing would be prudent for it as well. Yay!
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