(Topic ID: 328734)

Rush Node Board 10 issues list and research

By Jamesays

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Dipsy
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“Rush/Godzilla Node Board 10 issues and Non issues list”

  • Rush LE/Premium with issues 69 votes
    35%
  • Rush LE/Premium no issues 123 votes
    62%
  • 3 votes
    2%
  • 2 votes
    1%

(Multiple choice - 197 votes by 195 Pinsiders)

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#151 1 year ago

Maybe all these issues are the reason RUSH is not on the line this year?

#152 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Godzilla uses same board. The problem is not the board. Stern knows this. Problem seems to be power interruption, possibly coming from ramp stepper motor area. However with this game, there also is an issue with extremely tight zip ties that may be contributing to the power interruption, thus causing the node 10 board to go into automatic meltdown.

I’m fully aware of what’s been happening with Rush, just wasn’t sure about GZ. I wanted to put the info out there, as I still see people posting as it’s a bad Node board, and not something else causing the failure.

Hence, throw a new board in without double checking the other aspects, will still lead to another blown board. And since they’re already hard to come by, hopefully have them stop wasting Node boards......

#153 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

And since they’re already hard to come by, hopefully have them stop wasting Node boards......

I hear ya and could not agree more. I think in the current managment cycle at Stern, it as if the engineering team has very little say in what to do.

#154 1 year ago

Stuff a rubber ball under the ramp!!!! I removed all my white tie straps, massaged the dents out the wires. Removed clock, everything looks ok, I just can’t find anything that looks damaged. Why not just send everyone new parts associated with Node-10 ??? Get this mess over with!!! If it wasn’t such an enjoyable game it would have been gone. The game is just Epic , especially with the LZ expression lights!! I will never understand why wires need to be strapped so tightly, just Asking for problems

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#155 1 year ago

Living on the edge Here Stern

#156 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:Living on the edge Here Stern

38
#157 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

The poll doesn't let you vote more than once. I'm a pinball repair tech (and a former electronics engineer with stepper motor experience) and I've been in contact with 4 Rush Premiums/LEs. One of those has blown 2 node boards, the other 3 are fine so far. 25% failure rate.
The LE machine that has blown 2 node boards didn't have cable ties that were overly tight. It had a build date of June 21, '22 and 1900 plays. It's a later build date than most listed here and maybe by that time they weren't over-tightening cable ties.
I did the best forensic analysis as I could on both the node boards and the machine, without a schematic for the node board. I've also reviewed the datasheet for the TMC5041 motor driver chip.
I believe the problem is related to either a disconnect of the motor while power is applied (as Stern suggests) or a static discharge. Either of these causes a voltage spike to enter the outputs of the driver chip. Internally, the chip shunts those spikes to the 24 volt supply (which is a separate area of the node board). The spike on the 24V supply then blows either/both the internal 5V regulator on the motor driver chip or the 24 volt regulator on the node board. After that the chip basically melts down. All of the heat/burning you're seeing in Pinsider's photos occurs AFTER the driver chip has blown. The chip is only rated at 26 volts. The node board is supplied with 48V. If the 24V regulator fails, then you potentially have 48V burning up the chip. A heatsink isn't going to solve anything.
As both JeffHecht and ChrisHibler have said, ultimately, the fault lies with Stern not designing the board with the recommended protection circuits made by the chip manufacturer. That protection would guard against both disconnection and static.
The only thing I found in the machine wiring that hasn't been discussed previously (I alerted Stern to this a couple of weeks ago) is that wires on the ramp motor are tinned with solder prior to crimping terminals on the wire for the in-line connector. While solder is great for melting onto wires for making connections, the surface of the solder doesn't make for a good electrical connection once it's cooled. This was only done to the ramp motor on the in-line connector (the connector closest to the motor). Tinning the wires reduces the surface area of the crimp connection and leaves flux residue. The drum motor wires are crimped normally.
[quoted image]
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The easiest way to fix this is to solder the wire to the terminal. But there are a couple of problems for Pinsiders. You need excellent soldering skills because it's so small and too much solder won't allow you to reinsert the pin into the white housing. The other problem is getting the pin out of the housing -- you need a special extraction tool. I don't know if this is the absolute correct one for this connector, but it works: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0011030044/210947?s=N4IgTCBcDaIAwEYFwMxzgFgyAugXyA
I don't have any evidence this is THE problem. It's only another red flag.
On the LE machine that has blown the node boards, I also added a ground wire from the ramp motor/frame to a ground pin on the node board. This would hopefully help with static electricity discharge. I don't have a photo of this.
Time will tell if any of this remediation will help.
If I owned a Rush machine, I would unplug both motors from Node 10 (while powered off) and mechanically prop the ramp into the raised position and wait a few months for more information to surface or for Stern to issue a service bulletin.

I believe that I have found the basic problem. Stern is using the wrong sized crimp pins for the ramp motor connector. This is the in-line connector closest to the ramp motor. I've quoted my previous post above because the remedy is the same: either install the correct pins or solder the existing ones.

The ramp motor wires are 26 gauge. The connector pins they are using are spec'd for 18 to 24 gauge wire. (The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire.) The ramp motor wires are too small for the pin. So someone decided to "tin" the wires with solder to make them a little larger prior to crimping. This is not a good thing to do. The correct crimp pin is spec'd for 22 to 28 gauge wire.

I advised Stern about this issue a week ago and the only response so far was they would forward the info to the engineering department.

The problem is limited to only the one connector on the ramp motor side. The wires between the in-line connector and the node board connector are larger 24 gauge, so it's not a problem. And the drum clock motor is not affected because it's a different type of connector to the node board (which is why Godzilla is not affected).

I think Stern is going to have to swap out ramp motors to remedy the problem. There is at least one post in the owner's thread where Stern sent a replacement ramp motor along with the replacement Node 10 board, and it blew again. But the ramp motor they sent likely still had the wrong pins crimped on the motor wires. Knowing how fast corporations move to fix issues, it's probably still going to be a number of weeks before Stern is prepared to address the issue. And Stern's new CEO doesn't seem to have manufacturing experience and may not be a priority for him. (https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2022/12/20/stern-management-changes/)

See my previous post for photos of the connector (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list/page/2#post-7346100).
See my blog post for more details on identifying the connector pins: https://peakpinball.com/2023/01/17/rush-pinball-machine-stern-2022/

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

I believe that I have found the basic problem. Stern is using the wrong sized crimp pins for the ramp motor connector. This is the in-line connector closest to the ramp motor. I've quoted my previous post above because the remedy is the same: either install the correct pins or solder the existing ones.
The ramp motor wires are 26 gauge. The connector pins they are using are spec'd for 18 to 24 gauge wire. (The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire.) The ramp motor wires are too small for the pin. So someone decided to "tin" the wires with solder to make them a little larger prior to crimping. This is not a good thing to do. The correct crimp pin is spec'd for 22 to 28 gauge wire.
I advised Stern about this issue a week ago and the only response so far was they would forward the info to the engineering department.
The problem is limited to only the one connector on the ramp motor side. The wires between the in-line connector and the node board connector are larger 24 gauge, so it's not a problem. And the drum clock motor is not affected because it's a different type of connector to the node board (which is why Godzilla is not affected).
I think Stern is going to have to swap out ramp motors to remedy the problem. There is at least one post in the owner's thread where Stern sent a replacement ramp motor along with the replacement Node 10 board, and it blew again. But the ramp motor they sent likely still had the wrong pins crimped on the motor wires. Knowing how fast corporations move to fix issues, it's probably still going to be a number of weeks before Stern is prepared to address the issue. And Stern's new CEO doesn't seem to have manufacturing experience and may not be a priority for him. (https://www.pinballnews.com/site/2022/12/20/stern-management-changes/)
See my previous post for photos of the connector (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list/page/2#post-7346100).
See my blog post for more details on identifying the connector pins: https://peakpinball.com/2023/01/17/rush-pinball-machine-stern-2022/

Nice detective work! Soldering iron will be coming out before the next game on RUSH!!

#159 1 year ago

PeakPin: I really appreciate your detailed analysis. I also have received the cut and paste reply from Stern, "We will pass along your info to the engineering department." If this is indeed the solution, credit is due to you, not the Stern engineering department.

#160 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

I've quoted my previous post above because the remedy is the same: either install the correct pins or solder the existing ones

I’m pretty comfortable making cables with 0.1” connectors. Wouldn’t it be best to make a whole new cable with 18 gauge wire? Then use LOOSE zip ties to secure it.

Great detective work, BTW!

#161 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’m pretty comfortable making cables with 0.1” connectors. Wouldn’t it be best to make a whole new cable with 18 gauge wire? Then use LOOSE zip ties to secure it.
Great detective work, BTW!

What was the problem with the LE you worked on that was taking Node 10 out, believe it blew your board also ?

#162 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Nice detective work! Soldering iron will be coming out before the next game on RUSH!!

Use only the smallest amount of solder or else the pin won't go back into the housing. I know this from personal experience.

#163 1 year ago

Sure looks like Prem/LE people have issues, and not so much Pro machines.

My Pro #329190 has been fine as wine with the exception of that cruddy scoop guards, which I replaced with the Ninjacamp TPU bits.

No node board errors.

#164 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’m pretty comfortable making cables with 0.1” connectors. Wouldn’t it be best to make a whole new cable with 18 gauge wire? Then use LOOSE zip ties to secure it.
Great detective work, BTW!

The wires I'm referring to come directly out of the motor. They are installed by the motor manufacturer. These wires are not installed by Stern and is why the insulation (squishy) is not the same as the other Stern wires. All Stern did was install the crimp pins on the end of the motor wires and add a couple of cable ties. I don't recommend opening the motor and putting new wires on it.

#165 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

Sure looks like Prem/LE people have issues, and not so much Pro machines.
My Pro #329190 has been fine as wine with the exception of that cruddy scoop guards, which I replaced with the Ninjacamp TPU bits.
No node board errors.

That's because a Pro doesn't haven't node board 10 which is used for the motorized ramp and clock.

Knock on wood, but my Premium hasn't had any issues.... yet.

#166 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

The wires I'm referring to come directly out of the motor. They are installed by the motor manufacturer. These wires are not installed by Stern and is why the insulation (squishy) is not the same as the other Stern wires. All Stern did was install the crimp pins on the end of the motor wires. I don't recommend opening the motor and putting new wires on it.

Can you show pictures to which wires you are referring?

12
#167 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

PeakPin: I really appreciate your detailed analysis. I also have received the cut and paste reply from Stern, "We will pass along your info to the engineering department." If this is indeed the solution, credit is due to you, not the Stern engineering department.

Stern engineering working on the problem.

pjba6 (resized).jpgpjba6 (resized).jpg
#168 1 year ago
Quoted from Paddy-o:

Can you show pictures to which wires you are referring?

See my original post. The first photo is of the motor wires and the connector. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list/page/2#post-7346100

#169 1 year ago

Perfect. Thanks!!

#170 1 year ago

Maybe I'm not understanding, but if the ends are already tinned and just crimped to the connector, couldn't you just heat them up to effectively solder them on?

#171 1 year ago

Well, we all know Stern won't do a thing to remedy the issue, so it would seem best to solder those wires as Peak-Pin said. If you end up with too much solder and cannot get the pin to reset into the housing, order new crimp pins, crimp onto correct size wire, creating a pigtail. Then solder pigtail onto the other wire, insulated with heat shrink tubing. Or perhaps someone would like to pre-fab some pigtails?

#172 1 year ago

My guess is that you all are way past just collecting data, based on reading the root cause analysis late in this thread. But here is my info anyhow.

Rush Premium
Date game manufactured: 2022-04-26
Date game received NIB: 2022-06-30
Date node 10 board died: 2022-10-23 (# plays unknown)
Date replacement node 10 board received: ~2022-12-28
Date replaced node 10 board: 2022-12-30
***knocks on wood - working fine so far, as of 2023-01-23

My machines are plugged into Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra or Premium surge suppressors, which are plugged into Kasa smart plugs that turn on in the evening and turn off around 1:00 AM. My node 10 board died upon boot up (node board not found).

I had previously diagnosed and solved a problem where the wires to the switch on the ramp were tied too tightly, causing it to actuate at start up as the ball was ejected from the trough and the shaker rumbled (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-prem-giving-points-before-ball-plunged-no-song-choice#post-7008197).

In late December, before sending the node 10 board, Stern asked that I take a bunch of pictures of the wiring between the node 10 board and the motor with zip ties removed, and also the connector between node 10 and the motor, showing clean wire insertion. This was to ensure that the new node 10 wouldn't die upon install. Sent those on 2022-12-21.

I also took photos of old and new node boards on my work bench. I'll add some photos in another post.

#173 1 year ago

Some photos. Wires between node 10 and the motor with ties removed, the connector showing clean & full wire insertion, and old & new node 10 boards.

10 ramp motor to conn - ramp side zip rem (resized).jpeg10 ramp motor to conn - ramp side zip rem (resized).jpeg11 ramp motor to conn - conn side zip rem (resized).jpeg11 ramp motor to conn - conn side zip rem (resized).jpeg13 conn to node 10 - conn side zip rem (resized).jpeg13 conn to node 10 - conn side zip rem (resized).jpeg15b conn to node 10 - node side zip rem (resized).jpeg15b conn to node 10 - node side zip rem (resized).jpeg18 connector black blue (resized).jpeg18 connector black blue (resized).jpeg19 connector red green (resized).jpeg19 connector red green (resized).jpeg1 old top ambient light (resized).jpeg1 old top ambient light (resized).jpeg2 new top ambient light (resized).jpeg2 new top ambient light (resized).jpeg
#174 1 year ago
Quoted from metal-mods:

Or perhaps someone would like to pre-fab some pigtails?

unless you want to change out both ends and go with standard molex pins and connectors, you would need to purchase the following to use the same molex mini-fit jr. family of connectors:

crimping tool - $338.34
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0638191000/2327988?s=N4IgTCBcDaIGwGYAcBGAnAWhQBlyAugL5A
or
this service grade hand crimping tool may also work and is a bit cheaper - $160.07
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0640160200/2074097?s=N4IgTCBcDaIGwBYAMBGOBaJYlJAXQF8g

male pins - 22-28awg ($0.21 per connector, discounts for volume purchase)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0039000049/61451?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&s=N4IgTCBcDaIAxwMwE4EICzJAXQL5A

hand extraction tool - $26.18
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0011030044/210947?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIxwLQAYDMLkBZMgLoF8g

optional (if you want to make a new pigtail)
female connector - 22-28awg ($0.21 per connector, discounts for volume purchase)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0039000047/61454?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&s=N4IgTCBcDaIAxwMwE4EICwHYQF0C%2BQA

#175 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Maybe I'm not understanding, but if the ends are already tinned and just crimped to the connector, couldn't you just heat them up to effectively solder them on?

Kind of. Some rosin flux, which normally is in the solder core, would help get the solder to stick to the pins properly.

If you don't have any rosin flux by itself, it might be best to use some desoldering braid or a desoldering pump to remove most of the existing solder, then resolder sparingly with fresh rosin core solder.

One could also simply remove the connector entirely and just solder the wires together! Stern may void your warranty if they ever saw that, but the odds of your motor itself failing are low, and a connector cannot fail if it isn't there! So that's an option/risk to consider if your pin soldering fails or you can't get them back into the connector despite the care you've taken...

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#176 1 year ago

Perhaps someone has the proper crimping tool and wants to make up said pigtails?

Or, as PinballHaven said, maybe we just need to remove the pins from the housing and heat with a soldering iron to finish the bond between those pre-tinned wires and the connector pins?

#177 1 year ago
Quoted from metal-mods:

Perhaps someone has the proper crimping tool and wants to make up said pigtails?

Those wires run to the motor itself.

This would explain why there is no rhyme or reason to why build date isn't correlated to the failures. No doubt someone sat and added that connector to hundreds of motors at a time, so the occasional iffy ones are mixed in randomly.

And corrosion is no doubt making the rest "iffier" all the time, so hopefully everyone fixes theirs before their Node 10 goes poof! Somehow I don't see Stern sending out all new motors just because of the connector, but I could be wrong.

#178 1 year ago

It's understood that the end at the motor isn't modifiable. The incorrectly sized connector at opposite end from the motor would be snipped, and the pigtail soldered on.

Again, that would be an option if there was a problem reinserting the pre-tinned wire after soldering to the connector (as outlined by Peak-Pin in post #157)

#179 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

I believe that I have found the basic problem [...]

Excellent sleuthing!

My Node 10 journey seems to support your hypothesis. The original board went up in smoke after about 300 plays. Stern Support sends out a replacement, and that one made it approx 200 plays before failing. I tell them how the clock occasionally stops working until the next machine boot. They thought a bad clock motor might be the culprit, so they send out a Node 10 board AND a replacement clock motor with the 4-pin 0.100" connector already attached (the one that fits the header on the Node 10 board).

That was right around the time when the leading "root cause" theory was the gorilla with the zip-tie gun, and my ramp motor was definitely a victim of said gorilla... the insulation was mashed on the black and red wires so badly, it nearly severed them. Rather than counting the games until the third board went up in flames, I decide to order an OEM motor from the manufacturer (Lin Engineering) with the "flying leads" option, crimp my own pins onto it, and run it straight to the Node 10 board to ensure that it remained untouched by the zip-tie gorilla.

Replacement clock motor arrived with black zip-ties instead of the former white, but they were much more loose... I could even slide them across the wires to inspect the insulation beneath. Just to be safe, I removed them and substituted a few short pieces of heat shrink tubing in lieu of the zip-ties. When the new ramp motor arrived from Lin Engineering, I did the same thing. Both motors are now directly connected to the Node 10 board with the OEM leads, using the correct pins, and free from the guerilla gorilla's handiwork (see pic).

2 months and about 500 games later, and board number 3 is still performing like a champ! The ramp wires are a little too short to route through the existing path, but I'll take dangling wires any day, if it means this stupid issue is finally resolved!

One additional bit of info: I did open up the old ramp motor to see if the conductors could be easily replaced with 22ga leads, and they cannot. There is no chance in hell that I would attempt it, at least. It would involve disassembling the innards of the stepper, and from the way everything is packed in there with tight tolerance, the prospect of getting it all back together would likely be daunting (and unsuccessful). I would advise against opening the motors, period.

Final observation: The weird "clock stops working until next boot" issue has also gone away! So either the clock motor WAS bad, or maybe they fixed the issue with a subsequent code update... but either way, my clock and ramp are both rock solid as of today, and I'm a happy Rush camper again.
IMG_7530 (resized).JPGIMG_7530 (resized).JPGIMG_7531 (resized).JPGIMG_7531 (resized).JPG

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from XQJ-37:

I decide to order the OEM motor from the manufacturer (Lin Engineering) with the "flying leads" option, and crimp my own pins onto it, and run it straight to the Node 10 board, ensuring that it remained untouched by the Stern zip-tie gorilla.

The motor is also available from Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/lin-engineering/WO-4118S-04S/11564463?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwEYEA4DOBaADHVIC6AvkA

The picture is not exactly correct, but the datasheet shows the correct size.

#181 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

The motor is also available from Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/lin-engineering/WO-4118S-04S/11564463?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwEYEA4DOBaADHVIC6AvkA
The picture is not exactly correct, but the datasheet shows the correct size.

Oh wow... and almost $20 cheaper than what I paid the manufacturer!

It would have paid to shop around, especially since I'm ordering from Digikey on the regular. I grabbed the first one I saw. Live and learn.

#182 1 year ago

So basically, every LE/Premium is a ticking time bomb as that wiring is the same on all machines, no matter the manufacturing date? If that's the case, Stern needs to send everyone replacement kits.

Also, if this is a Stern problem, why are folks willingly paying a lot of money to fix the problem themselves? I should not be expected to buy a $340 crimping tool and/or a new 3rd party motor for starters. Stern needs to be held accountable.

#183 1 year ago
Quoted from jonboy71:

Also, if this is a Stern problem, why are folks willingly paying a lot of money to fix the problem themselves?

Because we are tired of waiting and this is apparently not a priority for Stern. If you don't believe me, contact them for yourself.

#184 1 year ago

Yep, it's only reasonable to think Stern would make it right, but they'll keep on throwing out their usual b@llsh!t "stay tuned " and never take care of it. Hell, it took a bunch of pinheads to have likely figured out their problem.

Save your game while you can.....

#185 1 year ago
Quoted from metal-mods:

Save your game while you can.....

Amen. For those who have not yet had the pleasure of receiving the standard "cut and paste" replies from Stern regarding node 10 issues, save yourself the agony and do what the above user did to his machine.

#186 1 year ago
Quoted from jonboy71:

So basically, every LE/Premium is a ticking time bomb as that wiring is the same on all machines, no matter the manufacturing date? If that's the case, Stern needs to send everyone replacement kits.
Also, if this is a Stern problem, why are folks willingly paying a lot of money to fix the problem themselves? I should not be expected to buy a $340 crimping tool and/or a new 3rd party motor for starters. Stern needs to be held accountable.

Nobody needs a $340 crimping tool. There are plenty of $40 ones out there that work and if you repair pinball machines you need one anyway.

That one is for commercial work like on the assembly line.

#187 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Nobody needs a $340 crimping tool [...].

Yep. This one is 23 bucks, and works beautifully.

https://smile.amazon.com/Crimping-0-08-1-0-18-28AWG-Ratcheting-Connector/dp/B01N1RFZZ4/ref=sr_1_1

#188 1 year ago

It would be great if Rush owners would record their serial numbers and what actions they took, or whatever solutions Stern provides, to remedy the Node 10 issue. As machines change hands over the years, someone can look up to see if the Node 10 remedies have been applied or not. Use the IPSND (Internet Pinball Serial Number Database). I've already done it for a couple of machines. Just list in the comment section which remedies you've done (e.g. replaced cable ties and swapped ramp motor provided by Stern). Ideally also submit a photo of the serial number. Your location can be left blank for privacy. I think you can do it without creating an account.

Rush Premium:
https://www.ipsnd.net/view.aspx?id=6845

Rush LE:
https://www.ipsnd.net/view.aspx?id=6846

#189 1 year ago
Quoted from jonboy71:

Also, if this is a Stern problem, why are folks willingly paying a lot of money to fix the problem themselves? I should not be expected to buy a $340 crimping tool and/or a new 3rd party motor for starters. Stern needs to be held accountable.

I agree that Stern should, and eventually will, take care of these issues. But I think it's important for the remedy information to be "out there". Think 10-20 years down the road. Rottendog will be making aftermarket Node 10 boards and someone's going to want to know how to prevent it from blowing. Stern, as we know it, may not exist anymore. Just look how fast Bally/Williams declined from their peak in the early 1990's.

#190 1 year ago

Wouldn't the easiest thing at the moment be to remove the connector to the ramp motor and solder the wires together ?

Seems to be the logical step as they can't shake apart or fail, it wouldn't cost anyone ( owner or Stern ) to make the mod to the loom, but is possibly the cure.

Stern need to step up and sanction this if they believe there is enough evidence to warrant the intervention so it doesn't become a possible warranty blocker in the future.

#191 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Because we are tired of waiting and this is apparently not a priority for Stern. If you don't believe me, contact them for yourself.

Quoted from metal-mods:

Yep, it's only reasonable to think Stern would make it right, but they'll keep on throwing out their usual b@llsh!t "stay tuned " and never take care of it. Hell, it took a bunch of pinheads to have likely figured out their problem.
Save your game while you can.....

Quoted from gandamack:

Amen. For those who have not yet had the pleasure of receiving the standard "cut and paste" replies from Stern regarding node 10 issues, save yourself the agony and do what the above user did to his machine.

It's always some kind of Bull Shit about stern pins and their complete lack of customer service and parts. They just keep giving a lot of the buyers with issues the middle finger.
Read through this one thread about an operator's nightmare with stern:
Parts trouble? !?! (Operator can't get parts/support from distributor or stern)

#192 1 year ago

Based on history, eventually Stern will publish a Service Bulletin on their website regarding the node board issues. (https://sternpinball.com/support/service-bulletins/) They will probably make a kit available with a new motor and you'll have to order it through your distributor. But the owner will have to take action to start this process. They aren't going to magically start shipping new motors with proper crimp pins to all owners of Premium/LEs. There are presently two service bulletins affecting Rush machines.

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

Based on history, eventually Stern will publish a Service Bulletin on their website regarding the node board issues. (https://sternpinball.com/support/service-bulletins/) They will probably make a kit available with a new motor and you'll have to order it through your distributor. But the owner will have to take action to start this process. They aren't going to magically start shipping new motors with proper crimp pins to all owners of Premium/LEs. There are presently two service bulletins affecting Rush machines.

This absolutely nails it. People can stop complaining about Stern, it's useless. Protect your investment if you want to, or don't. If it breaks, get in line with them and wait for parts. The Stern machine handles these matters consistently and it's not changing. Reference Rush scoop protectors or AIQ subway issues as reinforcement of this pattern in recent games.

#194 1 year ago

LE# 180
Build Date:2/10/22
Purchase Date: 3/4/22
Node 10 Failure Date: 5/27/22
Code Version at Failure: 0.96
Approximate Number of Plays at Node 10 Failure: 175
Receipt of Replacement Node 10 Board: 6/28/22
No Failures Since

I appreciate the effort that Pinsiders have made to determine the root cause, since it clearly isn't the Node 10 board itself. Hopefully Stern will release a permanent solution in the near future.

#195 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

The Stern machine handles these matters consistently and it's not changing.

Didn't you mean to spell "inconsistently?"

#196 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm:

Didn't you mean to spell "inconsistently?"

No, they consistently don't respond or give away parts to people that don't open tickets. They consistently produce service bulletins for issues once they have a viable solution. They consistently keep producing machines with little to no QC and don't apologize. I don't see any inconsistency in their approach.......expecting a different outcome is futile here and whining on pinside doesn't do anything. Vote with your dollars and learn what to expect from each manufacturer if you buy NIB. DYOR!

#197 1 year ago
Quoted from SuS:

I appreciate the effort that Pinsiders have made to determine the root cause, since it clearly isn't the Node 10 board itself. Hopefully Stern will release a permanent solution in the near future.

Actually it was pointed out by someone with electrical engineering skills that the node board design is the failure point with the chip set and voltages used not properly protecting the chip according to the chip manufacturers specs. I do hope Stern eventually redesigns the node 10 board to account for that, but you can be sure they will use up all current inventory before cutting over to a new design if it ever happens.

#198 1 year ago

How difficult would it be to add the protection components to the node board? Looks like the whole circuit is just a few varistors and potentially some 470pF caps.

#199 1 year ago
Quoted from metal-mods:

Yep, it's only reasonable to think Stern would make it right, but they'll keep on throwing out their usual b@llsh!t "stay tuned " and never take care of it. Hell, it took a bunch of pinheads to have likely figured out their problem.
Save your game while you can.....

Thing is with stern is.. they won't really share any 'in progress' work. They like to wait until they have a full field bulletin with fixes ready to ship. Same thing with the scoop protector and switch. Everyone knew it was a problem... but stern wouldn't really say anything until the full kit was ready.

Expect the same here.

Obviously there are easy options for people that don't include buying the true molex crimper.

#200 1 year ago

Would it be a reasonable request for Stern to update the code to allow the user to cut power to both the drum and the ramp and also allow the ramp to stay up until they can get a solution in place?

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