(Topic ID: 328734)

Rush Node Board 10 issues list and research

By Jamesays

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by PinMonk
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“Rush/Godzilla Node Board 10 issues and Non issues list”

  • Rush LE/Premium with issues 69 votes
    35%
  • Rush LE/Premium no issues 123 votes
    62%
  • 3 votes
    2%
  • 2 votes
    1%

(Multiple choice - 197 votes by 195 Pinsiders)

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#501 1 year ago
Quoted from lapean111:

Guys, Stern is sending me a repair kit that removes the connector. They hear us. I mentioned it earlier in the thread. The original repair kit they sent me blew in 2 games. The new kit will have a motor that has the wires go directly to node 10.

So with that in mind, will Stern replace everyone’s stepper motor with a harness that goes directly to the Node board? Or are they going to sit on the sidelines until everybody’s out of warranty and those that blew got fixed and those that don’t have to buy their own parts later outside of warranty? Considering the cost of these machines, I don’t think it would be out of line to supply a new stepper motor to a customer on a $9000 investment.

#502 1 year ago

If anyone here has failed node boards that they wouldn't mind giving up, I'd love to have them for failure analysis and repair method practice/validation.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#503 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

If anyone here has failed node boards that they wouldn't mind giving up, I'd love to have them for failure analysis and repair method practice/validation.

I will have 2 for you once my new kit arrives.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#505 1 year ago

The chip that fails is a $10 chip at typical suppliers. The chip is a QFN48 (tiny) package which is 7mm by 7mm with 12 pins per side with a heat sink plate under it. It is a real bear to get aligned and soldered in place without burning up the chip or aligning it improperly.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Trinamic/TMC5041-LA-T?qs=TiOZkKH1s2R677V44glmWw%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

Good luck Chris, I hope you have better luck than I did.

The node board started right up after I removed the failed chip. Nothing else was damaged. I think the failed chip was pulling down the 3.3v or 5v supplies on the board.

#506 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

TMK, there's not been a single report of a blown node 10 on a game with the connector removed.

Quoted from SterlingRush:

I believe there is one report, within the last 2-3 pages, but we asked to see pictures, which have not been provided of the fixes.
How it was done, and the experience behind it, might have been a factor, not sure without pics.

That was mine. Me, the first person to suggest removing the connector, the guy who came up with the term "connectorectomy."

To sum up, I removed the connector and everything seemed fine. Then my Node 10 smoked anyways, many plays later, after a few days.

Funny thing was, the game did not subsequently complain about my Node 10, it evidently went bad slowly enough as to not blow the card I/O, just the motor driver chip.

Turns out my motor lead zip ties were crazy tight, which had to have stretched the flimsy braided wires internally and compromised them. Pics were provided. I don't remember anyone asking to see my splice job, there's nothing to see but some shrink tubing, and anyway the circuit on each side of the motor is still 9 ohms, although the weakened wires evidently cause trouble under actual load conditions.

Thus the best fix would be to replace the motor with one that has leads that reach all the way to the node board.

And if you're doing a connectorectomy, if the zip ties are smooshing the extra rubbery insulation on your motor leads at all, I'd cut the wire ahead of them and splice in another set of wires to the other splice.

Crazy how two modes of failure arose on the same component!

Disclaimer: it could be that I just had a weak node board; one anecdote is probably not conclusive proof of anything...

#507 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

FUCK!!!!!!!!! My Life!!! iam sooo over this fucking pinball machine!!!! Blew another board!!!! I did exactly what I was told!!! Cut the connector out, solder the wires, removed all tie straps, checked EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Iam Done!!!!

I thought DiabloRush was referring to this post.

#508 1 year ago

so we have 2 blow after removing the connector,well 1 for sure

#509 1 year ago

Oh well. Sold my premium and buying a Pro. No more Sterns after this.

#510 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

I thought DiabloRush was referring to this post.

That’s the one, forgot about @danqverymuch, so yea two reports known.

#511 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

That’s the one, forgot about DanQverymuch, so yea two reports known.

sorry I got half of Your name wrong

#512 1 year ago

Fellow pinsider fixed mine in 20 minutes, right before a home tourney. Also Uncrimped the wires and now livin in the limelight.

A4E31885-212C-4013-AF01-22A009D84D74 (resized).jpegA4E31885-212C-4013-AF01-22A009D84D74 (resized).jpeg
#513 1 year ago
Quoted from GranpaDave:

Fellow pinsider fixed mine in 20 minutes, right before a home tourney. Also Uncrimped the wires and now livin in the limelight.
[quoted image]

Let's hope yours and mine stay in the Limelight

#514 1 year ago
Quoted from GranpaDave:

Fellow pinsider fixed mine in 20 minutes, right before a home tourney. Also Uncrimped the wires and now livin in the limelight.
[quoted image]

I did this same thing yesterday. Found both sides of the 4-pin connector, all 8 pins, male and female, had the insulation crimped over and looked like wires where not soldered. I'm amazed it was even working with those poor connections.

Like stated by others... No need for this connector. I also took it one step further and removed the zip ties and bundled the wires with shrink tubing. No chance that will smash the soft motor leads. The motor leads use a very soft insulation compared to the "jumper harness", so inspect those wires for "pin holes" from the zip ties.

20230311_094819 (resized).jpg20230311_094819 (resized).jpg Added 16 months ago:

BTW. Godzilla uses the same stepper on the building. I was cha-ching out my buddy's and found he also had the over-tightened zip ties. His motor lead harness was smashed worse than my Rush. So... maybe Zilla owners should check.

#515 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

That was mine. Me, the first person to suggest removing the connector, the guy who came up with the term "connectorectomy."

To sum up, I removed the connector and everything seemed fine. Then my Node 10 smoked anyways, many plays later, after a few days.

Hey DanQverymuch "thankyouverymuch" for the failure analysis summary on your "connectorectomy." Makes sense to me, and gives us hope that the final solution is either a motor with long wires going directly to the node 10 connector, or to remove the connector and splice new wires in "upstream" of any previous zip ties on the motor and node 10 leads.

I've had 2 node 10 failures (already listed earlier in the thread). Stern sent the 1st replacement after I sent detailed photos of wires with zip ties removed and the connector, and it died too. I'm waiting on a 2nd replacement with a ramp motor this time. I was one of the lucky ones to get a node 10 board from Marco @ $199 last month, and may do the improved "connectorectomy" if it takes Stern too long.

While waiting, I'm going to take enough top side elements off in order to replace the factory rings with Titans, and to install all the NinjaCamp TPU mods. I have the improved scoop protector mechanism with the 2 blue bumper pads, but the ability to have the ball sneak in from the side (per original design) and the proven track record (so far) of the TPU make the effort seem worthwhile.

When I do the topside work, I'm going to investigate the clock motor and wiring too, just to make sure it is not a potential failure mechanism.

#516 1 year ago

If I were replacing the connector - I'd simply do the rest of the job while I was at it.. and place the new junction so that any of the motor's wiring that was under zip ties was replaced too. If you are getting a new motor, obviously that is not needed, but for anyone trying to bulletproof their existing game there is no reason to leave that suspect wire in place. Just replace it with new wire to extend to where you need.

#517 1 year ago
Quoted from JeffHecht:

Let's hope yours and mine stay in the Limelight

All the credit goes to you, Jeff! Thanks for keeping up on this thread and taking care of my game. Cheers.

#518 1 year ago

I have several spare stepper motors (from upgrading Prusa 3D printers), and these motors have the same specs as the LIN motors Stern uses for the ramp mech. Importantly, these motors have robust 20 gauge wiring (compared to the flimsy 24 gauge on the Stern motor). I was thinking of swapping. Would be good to know if alternate motors work. The key specs are number of poles and the degree of rotation per pulse. The Prusa stock motors are the same in this case. Then again, if its not broke, don’t fix it…

#519 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

I have several spare stepper motors (from upgrading Prusa 3D printers), and these motors have the same specs as the LIN motors Stern uses for the ramp mech. Importantly, these motors have robust 20 gauge wiring (compared to the flimsy 24 gauge on the Stern motor). I was thinking of swapping. Would be good to know if alternate motors work. The key specs are number of poles and the degree of rotation per pulse. The Prusa stock motors are the same in this case. Then again, if its not broke, don’t fix it…

These motors are a direct replacement and come with leads long enough to reach the node board. Not worth messing about. The cable size isn't really the issue, it's how much it's been abused that is. Ignore the picture :-

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/lin-engineering/WO-4118S-04S/11564463?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwEYEA4DOBaADHVIC6AvkA

#520 1 year ago

My game has a problem with the ramp and the clock not working. I read most of the posts here. Is anyone's game fully functional aside from the ramp? Is anyone else's clock not working? The wires on mine are zip tied tight. The crimps are done with the wrong pins (same as photo in one of the earlier posts here). I Contacted Stern via the support email. Never received any response. So, next I contacted my distributor. Told him what I read here, asked him for verification, and any available kits. I received a node board and no info. I don't want to complain really. I also don't want to talk out of turn about the guy here on Pinside. I was really hoping Stern or my distributor would verify, deny, or clarify. Has anyone gotten any documentation that they would like to share with this thread? Something from Stern or their distributor that affirms this issue officially and/or officially fixed? Thanks guys.

#521 1 year ago
Quoted from Flips365:

I read most of the posts here

Hmmm

#522 1 year ago
Quoted from Flips365:

My game has a problem with the ramp and the clock not working. I read most of the posts here. Is anyone's game fully functional aside from the ramp? Is anyone else's clock not working? The wires on mine are zip tied tight. The crimps are done with the wrong pins (same as photo in one of the earlier posts here). I Contacted Stern via the support email. Never received any response. So, next I contacted my distributor. Told him what I read here, asked him for verification, and any available kits. I received a node board and no info. I don't want to complain really. I also don't want to talk out of turn about the guy here on Pinside. I was really hoping Stern or my distributor would verify, deny, or clarify. Has anyone gotten any documentation that they would like to share with this thread? Something from Stern or their distributor that affirms this issue officially and/or officially fixed? Thanks guys.

Pro tip, if one board already blew, don’t slap the other one in there, without addressing the issue that caused the first board to blow.

Even if it works for now, the problem remains, and you’ll blow the 2nd one.

#523 1 year ago

You got me. I read a ton of posts, no kidding. Then, I skipped a ton, and went to the end. Going back through now.

Quoted from SterlingRush:

Pro tip, if one board already blew, don’t slap the other one in there, without addressing the issue that caused the first board to blow.
Even if it works for now, the problem remains, and you’ll blow the 2nd one.

When people say "blown board" are they referring to just the motor not working or the whole game is down? My entire game functions with the two exceptions clock and ramp.

#524 1 year ago

Here we go. New motor installed with direct connection to the node board , and this will be #-4 Node-10 board installed (11-months chasing this issue) I'am soo nervous right now!!!! Latest code has always been installed, I"am ready to flip the switch!!!

#525 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

Here we go. New motor installed with direct connection to the node board , and this will be #-4 Node-10 board installed (11-months chasing this issue) I'am soo nervous right now!!!! Latest code has always been installed, ram ready to flip the switch!!!

is anything different than when You installed the last Board ?

#526 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

Here we go. New motor installed with direct connection to the node board , and this will be #-4 Node-10 board installed (11-months chasing this issue) I'am soo nervous right now!!!! Latest code has always been installed, I"am ready to flip the switch!!!

Let 'er rip baby!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

11
#527 1 year ago

Yes!!!!!! Success!!!!!!! Finally after 11-months and 4-Node Boards the game is playing phenomenal!!!! Iam afraid to turn it off!!! I don’t advocate emailing the CEO-Mr Seth Davis, but he is the guy that finally got my parts mailed out!!! I”am over the moon that one of my favorite games is finally working perfectly!!!! Yes , I always play 10-balls!!!! Its tbe Ramp Motor for sure!!!!

03898F07-5810-48BC-955B-C2FDA5F21FB6 (resized).jpeg03898F07-5810-48BC-955B-C2FDA5F21FB6 (resized).jpeg
#528 1 year ago
Quoted from Flips365:

You got me. I read a ton of posts, no kidding. Then, I skipped a ton, and went to the end. Going back through now.

When people say "blown board" are they referring to just the motor not working or the whole game is down? My entire game functions with the two exceptions clock and ramp.

The issue that takes out the Node 10 board, affects the clock and ramp motor. So far, seems like the rest of the game is fine, from others reporting.

#529 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

Here we go. New motor installed with direct connection to the node board , and this will be #-4 Node-10 board installed (11-months chasing this issue) I'am soo nervous right now!!!! Latest code has always been installed, I"am ready to flip the switch!!!

show photos of the new setup please,We are all Happy You are able to enjoy Rush again.

#530 1 year ago

‘Node Boy’

Glad you finally have your pin back and functional

Quoted from MJK-911:

Yes!!!!!! Success!!!!!!! Finally after 11-months and 4-Node Boards the game is playing phenomenal!!!! Iam afraid to turn it off!!! I don’t advocate emailing the CEO-Mr Seth Davis, but he is the guy that finally got my parts mailed out!!! I”am over the moon that one of my favorite games is finally working perfectly!!!! Yes , I always play 10-balls!!!! Its tbe Ramp Motor for sure!!!!
[quoted image]

#531 1 year ago

The answer to this entire Nightmare is the Ramp Motor, at least in my situation, I did remove the molex connector and solder the wires, but it blew instantly, I believe the 24ga wires/cat hair are soo small I might have cut a few not realizing what i did. Stern eventually mailed a new ramp motor that plugs directly into the node board. Now with the clock finally working, its kinda neat to watch it tell time, but the best part is that the Ramp finally works correctly. Love when it’s down and the ball fires back wicked fast, but then when its up, it will grab the ball, hold it, or eject it out the front or back, i sure missed my Time Machine!!!! I can say Stern will make things right, maybe with moving to a new building slowed things down. Love how the game counts the number of loop shots out loud. Game is blast and definitely a keeper. I apologize if I offended anyone in my earlier post, This has been one of the most frustrating pinball experiences ever, it was a $200 mistake 4x and the hours searching for the problem. Remember I only had 25-plays from NIB when the Node Board blew. Marco charging $700 for a $180 Node Board speaks volumes about the type of people they are. Soo glad this looks to finally be over. I truly thank everyone in this thread also doing their best also, Pinball Community really has alot of Good People. Thanks

#532 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

The answer to this entire Nightmare is the Ramp Motor, at least in my situation, I did remove the molex connector and solder the wires, but it blew instantly, I believe the 24ga wires/cat hair are soo small I might have cut a few not realizing what i did. Stern eventually mailed a new ramp motor that plugs directly into the node board. Now with the clock finally working, its kinda neat to watch it tell time, but the best part is that the Ramp finally works correctly. Love when it’s down and the ball fires back wicked fast, but then when its up, it will grab the ball, hold it, or eject it out the front or back, i sure missed my Time Machine!!!! I can say Stern will make things right, maybe with moving to a new building slowed things down. Love how the game counts the number of loop shots out loud. Game is blast and definitely a keeper. I apologize if I offended anyone in my earlier post, This has been one of the most frustrating pinball experiences ever, it was a $200 mistake 4x and the hours searching for the problem. Remember I only had 25-plays from NIB when the Node Board blew. Marco charging $700 for a $180 Node Board speaks volumes about the type of people they are. Soo glad this looks to finally be over. I truly thank everyone in this thread also doing their best also, Pinball Community really has alot of Good People. Thanks

Fingers crossed for you man! That's a long haul. The only comparison I have to that is waiting 11 months from order for my GNR. And that's nothing compared to having a pinball machine sitting in your house you can't use after 25 games. Take a week off and get a few hundred games in!

#533 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

The answer to this entire Nightmare is the Ramp Motor, at least in my situation, I did remove the molex connector and solder the wires, but it blew instantly, I believe the 24ga wires/cat hair are soo small I might have cut a few not realizing what i did. Stern eventually mailed a new ramp motor that plugs directly into the node board. Now with the clock finally working, its kinda neat to watch it tell time, but the best part is that the Ramp finally works correctly. Love when it’s down and the ball fires back wicked fast, but then when its up, it will grab the ball, hold it, or eject it out the front or back, i sure missed my Time Machine!!!! I can say Stern will make things right, maybe with moving to a new building slowed things down. Love how the game counts the number of loop shots out loud. Game is blast and definitely a keeper. I apologize if I offended anyone in my earlier post, This has been one of the most frustrating pinball experiences ever, it was a $200 mistake 4x and the hours searching for the problem. Remember I only had 25-plays from NIB when the Node Board blew. Marco charging $700 for a $180 Node Board speaks volumes about the type of people they are. Soo glad this looks to finally be over. I truly thank everyone in this thread also doing their best also, Pinball Community really has alot of Good People. Thanks

Glad to hear! Rock on dude!

#534 1 year ago

So, I guess the million dollar question is Stern going to be proactive and send out fixes for the previous fixes? I am a bit confused. So apparently the fix kits people received last month are not the latest fix kits? Should people now be expecting fix 2.0? This is getting strange.

#535 1 year ago

My Rush just turned a year old, with 1266 plays. It hasn’t blown any node boards, so I’m tempted to leave it alone. If I do the connectorectomy and my node 10 goes, that’s on me. I’m skilled at soldering and splicing wires, but the motor wire gauge does scare me.

#536 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

My Rush just turned a year old, with 1266 plays. It hasn’t blown any node boards, so I’m tempted to leave it alone. If I do the connectorectomy and my node 10 goes, that’s on me. I’m skilled at soldering and splicing wires, but the motor wire gauge does scare me.

Same here. A friend was replacing his and wanted me to poke around,I said hell no, took a lot of pics, he got installed and up and running. I don't wanna touch ours

#537 1 year ago

I get it. Thats a pretty good run without issue. Like most everyone, I do wonder what the working ones without modification with that many plays look like for comparison...

#538 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I get it. Thats a pretty good run without issue. Like most everyone, I do wonder what the working ones without modification with that many plays look like for comparison...

I posted a picture of one of my pins. I think they just crimped them correctly in that first batch of games. That may be the only difference.

#539 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I posted a picture of one of my pins. I think they just crimped them correctly in that first batch of games. That may be the only difference.

Ah, my bad, I didn't connect you with yourself.
You are the guy that let your friend fry your node 10 in his pin right after he fried his... you're a friend indeed.

#540 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

My Rush just turned a year old, with 1266 plays. It hasn’t blown any node boards, so I’m tempted to leave it alone. If I do the connectorectomy and my node 10 goes, that’s on me. I’m skilled at soldering and splicing wires, but the motor wire gauge does scare me.

Definitely remove overly-tight cable ties. They will eventually break the wires.

#541 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I posted a picture of one of my pins. I think they just crimped them correctly in that first batch of games. That may be the only difference.

This. There are 16 crimp pins associated with the motors. Four of those pins are the wrong ones. Of the Rush machines I've worked on, they've all had more crimp problems than just having the wrong pins. All of the badly crimped pins have had the wire inserted too far and the insulation crimped where the bare wire should be. Like the ones I posted in #478. I'm surprised the motor ever worked at all. Really bad quality issues.

Cable ties are the other thing. Some machines are fine, others are horrible and I've had to splice the wires.

The overriding issue is the lack of protection circuits on the node board.

#542 1 year ago

Yeah, I did remove the cable ties. No damage that I could see, but I’ll take a closer look tonight.

Quoted from Peak-Pin:

The overriding issue is the lack of protection circuits on the node board.

Whoever comes up with a plug-and-play circuit protection mod (if that’s even possible) is going to sell a lot of them.

#543 1 year ago

I know many of you guys have been concerned about the wire gauge, but remember this wire is what has been spec'd and internally connected by the motor manufacturer. They have determined this is all the motor requires. If this was a problem across the board I'm sure that manufacturer would have adjusted their design. It seems the real problem has been Stern's poor crimping (wrong terminals and/or procedure) and/or the abuse with zip ties. Heck, maybe someone in the factory was picking up the motors by the wire harness which is explicitly stated as a no-no in Lin Engineering's datasheet for the 4118S-04S motor.

#544 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

Definitely remove overly-tight cable ties. They will eventually break the wires.

If the ones on your motor leads are overtight, the damage is already done and it is a ticking time bomb.

The tiny braided wires within have been stretched lengthwise and not going to magically unstretch back to normal if the ties are removed. Some will have snapped and now the "good enough" wire gauge will have been rendered even smaller and thus inadequate.

If my game is any indication, the bright side is the node board will fry slowly and not take out the board I/O so at least the game will boot normally...

Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

maybe someone in the factory was picking up the motors by the wire harness which is explicitly stated as a no-no in Lin Engineering's datasheet for the 4118S-04S motor.

... because that would also stretch the wires.

#545 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

I too received this package today! Interestingly, my new ramp motor doesn't have any zip ties, but it definitely has more appropriate pins
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Welp - there goes Node 10 number 2! I had the new motor with the "fixed" pins as well.

Stern wanted the last one back, but if they don't I'll be shooting you a PM, ChrisHibler - you're just down the highway from me. I've actually got a couple games here that Chuck had you work on on behalf of Troy at Tilt, based on the tags on the MPUs. Unlike my RUSH, THEY don't try to light themselves on fire!

I'm no stranger to surface mount work, but I don't generally work on things that are quite as crispy.

IMG_2975 (resized).JPGIMG_2975 (resized).JPG

#546 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

Welp - there goes Node 10 number 2! I had the new motor with the "fixed" pins as well.
Stern wanted the last one back, but if they don't I'll be shooting you a PM, ChrisHibler - you're just down the highway from me. I've actually got a couple games here that Chuck had you work on on behalf of Troy at Tilt, based on the tags on the MPUs. Unlike my RUSH, THEY don't try to light themselves on fire!
I'm no stranger to surface mount work, but I don't generally work on things that are quite as crispy.
[quoted image]

Just curious, so your new motor still had the connector midway, not straight wires to the board?

Sorry to hear chief

#547 1 year ago

From Stern:

Action required.

As you are aware, we have identified improvements for the Rush Premium and Limited-Edition ramp motor connections. This motor connection improvement addresses a small number of issues received related to Node 10 board failures.

We are recalling the supply of Rush ramp motor replacements you just received. We have identified further improvements that will reduce the number of total connections required. This will make the part more reliable.

Stern Pinball is requesting that you send back the recently received initial shipment of Rush ramp motors at Stern Pinball’s expense.
Please take precautions with your logistics team to make sure the Rush ramp motors you just received get sent back to Stern and are not distributed to your customers. Pre-paid shipping labels will be emailed to you early next week.

Your PAM customer service representative will let you know when your new and improved batch of Rush ramp motors ship. Contact your Stern Pinball sales representative with any questions.

#548 1 year ago
Quoted from Ten31:

From Stern:
Action required.
As you are aware, we have identified improvements for the Rush Premium and Limited-Edition ramp motor connections. This motor connection improvement addresses a small number of issues received related to Node 10 board failures.
We are recalling the supply of Rush ramp motor replacements you just received. We have identified further improvements that will reduce the number of total connections required. This will make the part more reliable.
Stern Pinball is requesting that you send back the recently received initial shipment of Rush ramp motors at Stern Pinball’s expense.
Please take precautions with your logistics team to make sure the Rush ramp motors you just received get sent back to Stern and are not distributed to your customers. Pre-paid shipping labels will be emailed to you early next week.
Your PAM customer service representative will let you know when your new and improved batch of Rush ramp motors ship. Contact your Stern Pinball sales representative with any questions.

Thank You for sharing

#549 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Just curious, so your new motor still had the connector midway, not straight wires to the board?
Sorry to hear chief

Right - I was in the early attempt at a fix with a motor that had a 4 pin connector that connected into the existing harness to the node. Based on what Ten31 just posted, it sounds like I was in the small window where they were sending replacement motors, but not motors with the entire wiring from motor to node. Womp Womp.

#550 1 year ago

aamauzy
That is a shame.
Happy to give it a try.
The hardest part is removing the damaged part. Whoever builds those for Stern uses Lead Free solder. It has a higher melting temperature and parts really want to stay where they are. Especially parts with an exposed pad under them. No harm in trying. It’s nothing but a coaster as is.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

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Indian Land, SC
$ 154.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
From: $ 55.00
Lighting - Led
Lermods
 
From: $ 20.00
Lighting - Led
Gameroom Mods
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
arcade-cabinets.com
 
$ 140.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Drumstarr mods
 
$ 210.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
$ 22.00
Playfield - Other
Pin Monk
 
$ 16.99
Playfield - Plastics
Lermods
 
13,500
Machine - For Sale
Nashville, TN
$ 427.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
 
8,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Florissant, MO
$ 75.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
FlipMods
 
$ 29.99
Playfield - Decals
Cento Creations
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
WilliPinball Mods
 
8,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Camano Island, WA
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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