(Topic ID: 326307)

Rush: Fixing the loop.

By ejg10532626

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Happy Holiday all.
Apologies if there is already topic on this.

On Rush:
How are people fixing the top left loop shot from non registering?
--When you make the loop shot so fast it skips the rollover--
(Should have been an opto there - not a rollover).

I love the pin, but this is annoying.
Logical help appreciated - thanks in advance.

#2 1 year ago

I bought a clear plastic mod/cover from a vendor here on pinside. It helped, but the issue still happens.

#3 1 year ago

Ninja camp mod is the best fix out there

#4 1 year ago

I've tried the Ninja Camp mod and from time to time, it'll still not register the shot. I then ordered an MRS switch which I still have the problem. The MRS switch is really tempermental because if it's installed one way, it'll be 1mm closer to the center magnet and that will register the shot when activated. The MRS owner stated I need to add a shield barrier to prevent it, which I haven't gotten around to yet.

#5 1 year ago

There are a number of options. I summarized them here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/202#post-7184410

The 3D-printable option I designed is described in more detail here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/194#post-7154941

IMHO, the two best choices are the clear cover for the lane, or the part I designed. The few people who have told me they've installed my part, as well as myself, have found it solves the problem 100%. People who install the clear lane cover, at least some of them, also say that solves the problem 100%. Both solutions are specifically designed to simply hold the ball down on the lane, to ensure it triggers the switch.

The other options -- felt, the NinjaCamp part, or the MRS switch -- all involve a less-direct approach, either slowing the ball down a smidge or providing an alternative means of detection that can work even if the ball isn't on the playfield. They also seem to work, but there are always comments like those above noting that it's still not quite 100%.

I personally believe my design is the best, but I'm hardly an unbiased observer. Note that while I'm not in it for the money, and not providing printing services myself (because then I would have to charge something), if you don't have a 3D printer yourself, you may have low-cost printing services available locally -- a friend, a library, maker space, etc. -- and if it turns out that's not even the case, you can get one of the commercial companies like Shapeways or Xometry to print it for you, at a price comparable to or lower than the other parts being sold as retail solutions.

My design also has the advantage of not covering the lane, so if the ball gets stuck up there, it's easy to get out. Really slow balls rolling backwards in the lane have a small chance of getting hung up on both the mechanical switch as well as the magnetic one.

#6 1 year ago

pete_d Thanks for offering your design to everyone to print. It looks like a great option. Would it be fine to print with PLA or does it really need to be PETG or TPU? I only have access to PLA right now.

#7 1 year ago

I have a combo of the lexan covering the lane (which did not resolve my issue 100%) and Pete's 3D print. I'd say I'm at about 99% of loops registering, and for how well his help and communication is on it I would suggest starting with Pete's solution if you have access to a 3D printer.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from SteelNation:

pete_d Thanks for offering your design to everyone to print. It looks like a great option. Would it be fine to print with PLA or does it really need to be PETG or TPU? I only have access to PLA right now.

I think PLA would be okay. It's not quite as tough as PETG, but from the time in service the part's had on my machine (over two months now, hundreds of plays), it doesn't look like the part actually gets a lot of high-impact wear. Which is intentional; I designed it to catch the ball as it's coming around the curve and to meet it gradually.

Obviously, the forces involved in pinball mechanics can be very high, and I don't have the chops to do any sort of detailed analysis on the problem. But my intuition tells me you could probably get away with PLA just fine.

I obviously don't know what the restriction on your access to filament types is, but a 1 kg spool of PETG ought to cost less than $30, and only a tiny fraction of that would even be used to print this part (IIRC it's about 15-20 g or so...don't quote me on that, but it's definitely small ). So if you're leaning on a friend to print the part, they might appreciate a donation to their filament stock (or if price is a concern, maybe they'd split the cost).

#9 1 year ago

The ninja worked 100% for me. My only remaining issue is that when a ball gets stuck on the stern loop switch when going slowly around the curve. Is there a trick to lowering it so the ball can’t rest on it without losing activation (a specific way to bend it)?

#10 1 year ago

An MRS is an option.....many have had success with it.....
Matt
M&M Creations

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

I have a combo of the lexan covering the lane (which did not resolve my issue 100%) and Pete's 3D print. I'd say I'm at about 99% of loops registering, and for how well his help and communication is on it I would suggest starting with Pete's solution if you have access to a 3D printer.

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

FWIW, when I installed this part on my machine, the other thing I did was adjust the roll-over switch itself to be as sensitive as I could. This is a little fiddly; there's a fine line between adjusting it just right, and having it stuck in the always-closed state. But anyone with patience and a narrow-jawed needle nose pliers should be able to do it. Just have to remove a couple of screws to get the switch out to adjust it, then make sure when you put it back it, it's nice and straight in the slot.

I don't know whether this was necessary at all. Probably it would've worked fine anyway. But it made me feel better, to eliminate every little bit of slop in the triggering of the switch that I could.

The other thing, which I think I might have mentioned in the comments for the design -- I'll go double-check that -- is to make sure the part is pushed all the way down on the lane guide. If it's not, double-check the slot that the lane guide goes into to make sure there isn't any debris left from the printing process in there. Even normally it takes a fair amount of force to push it down all the way, but if there's extra plastic in there, obviously it would be impossible for it to get seated fully.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

An MRS is an option.....many have had success with it.....
Matt
M&M Creations

I have one, works perfectly

#13 1 year ago

Bend the switch up just a hair so the middle part sticks up a little more. Very easy to access the switch from underneath.

#14 1 year ago

Yeah I just bent the switch wire up a bit and now it’s 100 percent.

Didn’t realize it was an issue for many examples of the game.

1 week later
#15 1 year ago

Thank you very much for the good suggestions.
4 true solutions, sounds like anyway.

Will let you all know how it turns out.

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