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Frame assembly instructions:

To assemble the frame you will need some or all of the following tools/equipment.

* 2mm allen key
* 2.5mm allen key
* posi screwdriver (aka multi-headed)
* 2mm socket
* 2.5mm socket
* ratcheting socket handle
* wire cutters
* wire strippers
* 2 pieces of 18awg or 20awg wire (each 14"-15" in length)
* vice
* cloth for cleaning

a couple of things before we get started:

note: make sure you have a decent sized work space to assemble everything. lay a soft cloth or towel down first to assemble everything to avoid damaging the plastics.

note: you will need to be very careful when handling electronics in general but even more so when handling the plastics as it's very easy to build up a static charge. make sure to ground yourself regularly by touching a piece exposed metal. alternatively, you can wear a ESD strap if you have one.

note: when tightening the screws, DO NOT over tighten them as you can risk cracking the acrylic panels. tighten up (finger tight) to get everything assembled and then apply another 1/16-1/4 turn to snug them up.

if you've purchased a frame kit from me, the hardware pieces will comprise of the following (otherwise, you will need to source them):
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A (6) M4x40 hex spacers (nylon)
B (8) M3x30 hex spacers (nylon)
C (4) M3x16 hex spacers (nylon)
D (6) M4 nuts
E (4) M3 nuts
F (8) M3 washers
G (6) M4x12 black allen screws
H (12) M4x12 silver allen screws
I (12) M3x12 flanged allen screws
J (4) M3x8 flanged allen screws
K (1) low profile ICD connector

assembly:

the photos shown here represent assembly using the green PCB colored DMDs from the AliExpress

1) peel the protective paper off one side of the rear acrylic panel so that the small and rectangular holes are on the right side and the hangers are positioned right-side up (larger, circular sections at the bottom)

try and handle the plastic by the edges when removing the protective film (and when handling them in general) to avoid fingerprints. some static will be generated when peeling the film, so ground yourself straight away to reduce dust attracting to the acrylic pieces

you may also notice some white 'dust' on the acrylic pieces which is residue from the laser cutting. this can be easily dusted off with a soft cloth. I used a microfiber cloth and a swiffer. there is no need to rub the plastic hard, as you'll only risk scratching it and building up more static

remember to periodically ground yourself during the assembly process.

2) with the large cut out and the square positioned so that it is in the right side corner, insert four of M3x12mm screws (I) into the PCB mounting holes. use the four M3 nuts (E) to hold them in position before screwing the four small M3x8mm spacers (C) onto them. the nuts will extend the height of the spacers giving enough clearance for the pc board
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3) using a vice, attach the low profile IDC connector by squeezing the 2 pieces onto one of the ribbon cables as shown
NOTE: the orientation of the connector should be opposite of both of the other connectors

you can cut off the original connector nearest the new, low profile connector. however, if it you attach the new connector close to the end, it really doesn't get in the way
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4) on one set of provided cables, cut off the connectors and strip one end of the wires (exposing about 3/16" to 1/4" of the wire) and twist the exposed strands that came with the LED display panels as shown in the image below. this end will get inserted into power connector on the pc board
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5) assemble the Run-DMD PCB as instructed in the manual, inserting the ribbon connector and securing the power cable as shown below
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secure it to the M3 spacers (C) on the rear panel using the four short M3x8mm screws (J)
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insert the DC extension (if you bought one) or the original power cable into the Run-DMD PCB, but don't turn the power on yet.

6) preparing the DMDs. place the DMDs face down on your work surface. (note the orientation of the arrows on the DMDs, this is important)

strip approximately 3/8" to 1/2" from both ends of the two lengths of 14" wire, twist the exposed strands and connect them to the 2 power connectors on the back of the LED displays as shown. make sure that you connect ground to ground (earth to earth for you british folk) between the displays and to the ground wire leading from the pc board. do the same for the live wire connections.
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connect the 2nd ribbon cable as shown to join the data connection between the 2 displays. not that the red strip [pin 1] of the ribbon cable is positioned so that it is at the top of the display (with relation to the arrows)

7) attach the eight long M3x30mm hex spacers (B) onto the outer sets of mounting studs as shown
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connect the new [blue] low profile IDC connector to the right hand DMD, note the orientation of the red stripe on the ribbon cable (as shown in the image below)
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9) attach the displays to rear acrylic frame using the remaining 8 long M3 screws (I) and the M3 backing washers (F). the washers will prevent the stand-offs from getting pulled [into] the holes of the rear frame when tightening the screws.
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NOTE: do not tighten the screws completely. the holes were intentionally made a little large by FrancoB so that you can line the two DMDs up perfectly. once they are lined up, you can gently tighten the screws. do not use excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise you may risk stripping the nylon stand-offs

10) before proceeding any further, now would be a good time to test everything to make sure that everything is functioning correctly. turn it on to verify your work up to now and then turn it off afterwards.

11) insert six of the silver M4x12mm screws (H) through the back of the assembly and fasten them with the M4 nuts (D)
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NOTE: the nuts not only secure the screws, but also add the necessary height required so that there is enough room for everything to fit between the two acrylic panels.

12) screw the six M4x40mm hex spacers (A) onto the M4 silver screws
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11) strip the protective paper from both sides of the front panel and make sure the tinted piece of acrylic is dust free before securing it to the M4 spacers (A) using the six remaining silver M4x12mm screws (H) or the six black oxide M4x12mm screws (G)

you're finished! turn it on, step back and bask in the awesomeness!