(Topic ID: 34428)

RS Flashers stay lit all the time?

By dmklunk

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by dmklunk
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

Hi all!
Got a question on my RS (and a long story about it as well!).

We bought the machine about three weeks ago from a private owner in Maryland. Also picked up a Gilligan's Island from the same guy. (We later found that our Gilligan's Island, interestingly enough, was exported to Germany and then brought back to the US!) Anyway, it turns out that the guy we bought it from had no expertise in troubleshooting problems whatsoever (in fact, I don't think he ever even removed the playfield glass from either machine).

So, when we got RS home, we discovered that the flashers and shaker motor were not working. Long story short, we discovered that the Blasting Zone flashers were causing a short (the two wires were touching).

When we fixed the short, we found out that the Blasting Zone flashers now stay lit solid anytime there is any power whatsoever to the game. The other flashers and the shaker motor, however, all work perfectly. From what I can tell, it seems that the Blasting Zone flasher above the playfield (with a red cover over it) and the flasher under the playfield under the Blasting Zone sign both flash by the same sequence (i.e. both flash at the same time). Any explanation or ways to narrow down the reason they're always staying on solid?

Cheers,

Derek

#2 11 years ago

Check the transistor that drives them. It sounds bad.

LTG : )

#3 11 years ago

You're going to want to fix that. Locked on flashers get very hot!
--
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#4 11 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

You're going to want to fix that. Locked on flashers get very hot!

Chris knows what of he speaks.

Remove the bulbs until you do fix it so nothing important gets melted.

LTG : )

#5 11 years ago

Transistor Q10 on the Aux. Driver PCB is likely shorted from the 2 wires shorting together.

This is the small rectangular PCB in the upper right corner of the backbox with a ribbon cable running to it - NOT the big driver board.

Q10 is a TIP102 transistor.

You will also want to test its predriver, Q3, a 2n4403 transistor. Often times, when a transistor fails and locks on, it stresses the predriver.

Do you know how to test transistors? Do you have a multimeter? Do you know how to use it? I don't mean to insult your intelligence if the answer is yes, but I need to ask to know how to help you best.

In the meantime, remove the 2 flasher bulbs that are locked on until you can repair the board. They will melt plastic, and potentially further damage the board if they are locked on.

#6 11 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

You're going to want to fix that. Locked on flashers get very hot!

I'm with you on that! Last night when we found the problem, I discovered that even when the flashers stayed locked on for a few seconds, they got extremely hot to the point where I had to power it off and wait a few seconds to even remove the bulb.

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

In the meantime, remove the 2 flasher bulbs that are locked on until you can repair the board. They will melt plastic, and potentially further damage the board if they are locked on.

As I said in my last post, I agree, I did discover that last night... It was amazing because even the red cover over the bulb became very hot very quick! Thanks for the reply!

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Do you know how to test transistors? Do you have a multimeter? Do you know how to use it? I don't mean to insult your intelligence if the answer is yes, but I need to ask to know how to help you best.

I do have a multimeter, but I do not know how to check transistors. As for knowing how to use the multimeter, I know how to check continuity, but that's about it (I know there are a ton of functions). However I do have a friend who is really good with the multimeter, etc. and I could get some help from him!

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from dmklunk:

I do have a multimeter, but I do not know how to check transistors. As for knowing how to use the multimeter, I know how to check continuity, but that's about it (I know there are a ton of functions). However I do have a friend who is really good with the multimeter, etc. and I could get some help from him!

To test if a tip 102 os shorted to ground, put the meter into continuity mode then touch then test continuity between the tip of the transistor and the ground pad on the board. There should not be zero resistance.

#10 11 years ago

Mark's instructions work for a quick and dirty TIP102 test.

Another way... put your meter in diode test and remove the board from the game

TIP102: Put the black lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the red lead on the center transistor leg (collector), and a zero reading should be seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

2N4403: Put the black lead of the DMM on the center leg of the transistor (note this transistor doesn't have a metal tab). Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor one at a time. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

#11 11 years ago

Thanks to both of you. I'm out of town until after New Year's but I'll check on it when I get home.

Thanks again!

Derek

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