(Topic ID: 45292)

RS blowing F103

By Hammerhead

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

Almost have my RS shopped, just have one issue to resolve. In test mode, F103 blows when I test any of the solenoids on that fuse, which are:
- all three pop bumpers
- both slingshots
- Red ball eject

These all used to work with the exception of the left pop bumper. It was disconnected when I got the game, the wrong solenoid was installed, and the sleeve inside that solenoid was bubbled like it had been melted or something. No obvious signs of a short anywhere.

Replaced that solenoid with the correct one, and on my initial test last night the different solenoids fired until I got to the left pop bumper at which point F103 blew. Now F103 blows no matter which solenoid I test.

Obviously the first step will be to disconnect the new solenoid to see if that makes a difference. Aside from that, any other help or suggestions would be great.

#2 11 years ago

Just guessing - the bad solenoid torched the TIP that runs said coil. replace board component (hopefully the damage did not get further up the board) and make sure your new coil is still good by checking resistance

#3 11 years ago

Make sure the diode on the left pop bumper is wired correctly and then check it with a DMM to make sure it's good. As coz6 said check the coil resistance while the diode is un-soldered.

Did you replace the fuse with the correct amperage and a slo-blo?

Check the driver transistor for the left pop bumper with a DMM in diode/continuity mode.

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Make sure the diode on the left pop bumper is wired correctly

It shouldn't have a diode on it.

LTG : )

#5 11 years ago

Quick update:
- using 3A slo-blo fuses
- no diodes on the solenoids
- F112 was also blowing (7A slo-blo)
- disconnected the left pop bumper solenoid, now all solenoids work with the exception of the left pop bumper (obviously)
- checked and found no resistance across the tabs of the left pop bumper solenoid (good)
- checked transistors for all affected solenoids (TIP 102), get readings of "18" on one leg and "750" on the other leg, centre leg is "0" - I thought these should typically be around 500 to 800?

Is it possible to hook up these solenoids backwards? Should I switch the wires to the opposite tabs?

#6 11 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Is it possible to hook up these solenoids backwards?

No diode so you can put wires on either side. Coil doesn't know the difference and works the same either way.

Left pop bumper solenoid - if wires are off, it should have at least a few ohms, no resistance is a shorted coil.

LTG : )

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

- checked and found no resistance across the tabs of the left pop bumper solenoid (good)

There should be 4-15 ohms on that coil. 0 ohms is a short and should blow your fuse.

#8 11 years ago

Well this is embarassing. Took a look and in fact there is a diode on the new coil! So I had it wired wrong and the coil was running wide open causing the short?

So, the other pop bumper coils have no diodes. Do I remove the diode from the new coil so that they all match, or wire the coil correctly and leave the diode in place?

#9 11 years ago

Remove the diode. There's diodes on the board (which I always forget about) for the bumper solenoids.

#10 11 years ago

If the diode was forward biased with the power feeding it then Id plan on changing the transistors that drive the coil. If it was forward biased then that would cause a short. The pop bumpers always have the diodes on the boards for later games, as far as I know anyway. Try removing the diode and check the resistance of the coil. The diodes on coils/flippers are "flyback" diodes meant for the emf a coil produces as power is removed.

#11 11 years ago

Removed the diode, now all solenoids fire as they should. However, the left pop bumper is now "on" all the time, so the transistor is shot. * Sigh *

#12 11 years ago

Yep. That's what happens when reversing a diode.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Yep. That's what happens when reversing a diode.

...100% of the time.
Don't try to suck the solder from the transistor, unless you have significant experience. Cut it off, heat the legs, then remove with needle nose or equivalent.

Check the predrive transistor too.
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#14 11 years ago

IT LIVES!

After three months of debugging hacks, replacing broken parts and a great deal of cleaning I can finally play a game of Road Show! Now all I need is to replace some broken plastics, new cabinet decals, new blue legs (all cosmetics) and it'll be done.

Thanks to everyone who's helped me to this point to get her up and running!

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