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(Topic ID: 271499)

Royal Rumble ( Data East ) Lower GI String Flickering


By okgrak

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 73 days ago by okgrak
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 4 months ago

    I've got an interesting issue with my Royal Rumble. My lower GI string LEDs ( slings, flipper area , and coin door ) are flickering, which makes tracking the ball near the slings quite difficult. My power supply and PPB has been completely rebuilt, and the machine exhibits no other issues. I am using all single SMD comet LEDs.

    Measuring the voltage on this GI, I am reading 4.9Vac.

    From my understanding, this GI string (purple-black and back ) is not connected to the regular GI and relay on the power supply board. I've taken a slo motion video with my phone, which clearly shows that only the lower GI is flickering, with the rest of the GI behaving normally.

    Any ideas for how to diagnose this? I can't seem to find any info on this additional GI string in the manual/schematics. Thanks!

    #2 3 months ago

    bump. someone must have knowledge of this extra GI string added on later DE games.

    #3 3 months ago

    Have you repinned the connector? Flickering is pretty indicative of a burned/bad molex connector.

    #4 3 months ago

    My connectors have all been rebuilt. My power supply and power delivery board have all been recapped as well.

    #5 3 months ago

    Those lamps are special because they don't blink with the relay. DE is using half of the 12vac to power those lamps. That means they are have a 60hz flicker to them when LEDs are used so they do the strobe effect horribly.

    I did something crazy in my game because it bothered me. Half wave bridge to make DC volts. Electro cap to smooth. regulator to chop the 12v down to 5v-6v. Then I had a nice smooth DC voltage to power those lamps with no AC cycling flicker to it.

    You could run a new wires down around the relay to power those lamps with the normal 6.3vac

    you could move those lamps to run on the normal GI that blinks with the rest of the GI.

    #6 3 months ago

    Thanks. I think the best solution for me right now is to just connect that GI string to the other GI strings. I am using an EnerGI maestro, so the GI blinking is not that jarring.

    Do you think I'll have any current / burn connector issues running those additional GI LED bulbs from the other strings? My GI/Inserts are all comet single SMD.

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Thanks. I think the best solution for me right now is to just connect that GI string to the other GI strings. I am using an EnerGI maestro, so the GI blinking is not that jarring.
    Do you think I'll have any current / burn connector issues running those additional GI LED bulbs from the other strings? My GI/Inserts are all comet single SMD.

    It is like eight or so LED lamps so the extra load is minimal. Should be OK.

    #8 3 months ago

    Connected that GI string up to another. Beautiful flicker free lighting by the slings now. Huge improvement for DE machines that have this extra AC Gi string.

    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Connected that GI string up to another. Beautiful flicker free lighting by the slings now. Huge improvement for DE machines that have this extra AC Gi string.

    Be careful in games with trough optos. If I remember right Baywatch has a similar GI string by the flippers so they don't blink with the relay. The gotcha is the ground return wire also goes to the trough opto ground return. If you move those wires to the normal GI I don't think that opto circuit would like AC volts on what is normally the return wire.

    In that game I have a switching PS doing the GI. I ran an extra wire run before the relay (so no blink by flippers) to the PF lamps on this circuit and now the SMPS also lights up the trough opto. I get a bit anal about the GI strobe light effect. Smooth DC volts look so much nicer. EnerGI is probably doing something similar, but I am not really familiar with that product.

    Another trick which i don't know if it will bother your EnerGI is the put a power resistor across the relay. Low ohms, like less then 50, 10W resistor. That way when the relay turns off, the resistor still lets a trickle of power to the lamps making the blink of the GI not so hard on the eyes when LEDs are used.

    #10 3 months ago

    Royal Rumble does not use trough optos. I just isolated those 8 bulbs, but left the rest of whatever is on that string connected ( coin door and some others). Played a couple games and it’s working perfectly. Can’t believe I put up with that flickering for so long. Maybe most people don’t notice it?

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Royal Rumble does not use trough optos. I just isolated those 8 bulbs, but left the rest of whatever is on that string connected ( coin door and some others). Played a couple games and it’s working perfectly. Can’t believe I put up with that flickering for so long. Maybe most people don’t notice it?

    I will notice it right away. I think the strobe effect from 60hz and even 120hz bothers some people more than others. I remember back in CRT monitor days I would walk by someone's PC and notice they have the monitor on 65hz. I would bump up the frequency or show them how to do it. A lot of people did not even notice a difference but bothered me.

    If you set your phone to record slow motion video you will see how the AC GI lamps are blinking rapidly.

    1 month later
    #12 81 days ago

    Any advice would be appreciated——slid the playing field glass off to reset a DEAD target that got knocked out of place (didn’t touch anything else). After turning the game on, it says one ball missing and launches a new ball, and after the new game loads the tag button doesn’t do anything. However pressing the flippers a few times makes the ball launch. Finally, it doesn’t recognize the ball exiting the play field.

    1 week later
    #13 73 days ago

    okgrak I'd like to do the same on mine to reduce the flickering on the lower GI. How exactly did you do it? I see that lower GI (purple-black black) is on a different string but where along the wiring did you reconnect it to use the other GI string? I assume not rewiring the connection to each individual bulb socket, but it sounds like also not up by the connector?

    #14 73 days ago
    Quoted from catch20two:

    okgrak I'd like to do the same on mine to reduce the flickering on the lower GI. How exactly did you do it? I see that lower GI (purple-black black) is on a different string but where along the wiring did you reconnect it to use the other GI string? I assume not rewiring the connection to each individual bulb socket, but it sounds like also not up by the connector?

    My first step was finding where the purple and purple black wires coming from the backbox connected to a socket on the underside of the playfield. I believe it was in the lights in the slings. I then disconnected and terminated those feeds. Next I bridged power from a nearby gi string to power those 8 bulbs. It helps to sketch it out on paper so you can see the entire circuit as your machine might differ from mine. Basically follow the path of the wires to make draw a circuit containing all of the bulbs in the flickering gi circuit. Good luck. It makes a huge difference in playability to not have the flickering.

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