(Topic ID: 190575)

Royal Flush no scoring or chimes

By Boise_D

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Boise_D
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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0Royal-Flush-Work-06 (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

I hope someone can help figure this out.
Game seems to start up correctly and put a ball in play.
Switches activate, like pop bumper and slings, but no scoring or chimes.
One exception, the joker hole scores 1000 with chime.
Bonus counts down, ball count moves correctly, even player count if more than one player. Game ends after ball 5 like it should.

I think Q relay and AX are both required for this to work. I think they are both working properly, as best as I can tell.
I also checked Z1 and Z2, both seem ok.
I can manually trigger 10 or 100 switch from backbox, or 500 from below playfield. All of these score and chime properly when I do.

I recently did the CFH recommended mod to the continuous hold relays Q and U. I think game startup and finish suggest those are good.

Any advice from the EM experts?

#2 2 years ago

First thing I would check are the jones plugs from the playfield.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

First thing I would check are the jones plugs from the playfield.

I agree with D-Gottlieb. Because the 10 point chime activates through a simple circuit on the N 10 point relay, and the 100 & 1000 point chimes activate similarly through the M and L relays.
It's also possible that the Black wire to the chimes is broken upstream.

#4 2 years ago

Hi Boise_D +
Does "no scoring, no chimes" means "ball hits a target on the playfield --- but no scoring" ?
Nice - the exceptions "Bonus-Count-Down" works, "Joker-Hole" on the right works.
Here I faulty wrote 100-points: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-royal-flush-help-1#post-3475368 --- correct is: The L-Relay is the 1000-point-Relay.
"B" is the Pop-Bumper-Relay, "D" is the 3000-Relay, "E" is the Bonus-Score-Relay.

Here I also show the M-100-point-Relay, N-10-point-Relay. Every one of these (L,M,N) relays has a short wire running from one side of the COIL to a switch mounted on the relay. ON THE SAME blade / solder-lug are the interesting wires soldered-on, example "L-1000-point-Relay": Wire-of-color-Green-White-Red. Follow this wire in the Backbox to a Jones-Plug --- all good ? Wire broken-off ? Plug oxidated ? Greetings Rolf
P.S.: Please explain / show a link "CFH recommended mod to Q- and U-Relay" --- I'd like to learn about.

0Royal-Flush-Work-06 (resized).jpg

#5 2 years ago

Thank you for the replies. I will check the jones plugs this morning.

See the section "Modifying the continuos duty relays..." And picture of two burned up coils here:

#6 2 years ago

I cleaned every connector on the 4 jones plugs in the backbox, and also the two on the bottom panel. I followed CFH's advice for cleaning them, using a wrapped 400 grit. I also inspected them and saw no disconnected wires. Bummer, no difference in the symptoms.

A ball in play will not score any points or activate chimes no matter what it hits, with the one exception of the joker hole on the right side, which will score 1000 points and ring the chime. The pop bumper and slingshots activate, flippers too. The right side middle lane will award and open the shooter lane gate correctly (gate is right outlane).
The game is not tilted, but the tilt still works properly.

how I test:
Turn on (Q and U start holding)
Push start: reels reset, targets reset, motor spins and stops.
Playfield is up, so I manually activate the outhole switch from underneath, which pops the coil. Then I activate the switch under the apron to simulate the ball rolling over it on the way to the shooter lane. I think this completes the start sequence of putting a ball in play.
Push drop target or pop bumper to test. Coils fire, but no score or chime.

Any other advice? I tried to read the schematics to see what is required for 10 points & chime, or a drop target to score and chime, or slings. Pretty much everything it seems have the Q and AX relay in the circuit. Is there a way to bypass these to maybe confirm they are not faulty?

I can manually activate the 10's or 100 relay and it works correctly. Same for the 500 or 3000 relay on the bottom panel. So, what is upstream from those that makes them activate, other than a target?

thanks again for any help.

#7 2 years ago

It could be the AX contacts. The AX is delicate to adjust, and requires fine tuning to work properly. Clean the contacts and ensure that everything opens and closes at it should.

Also check that the tabs are straight and solder is secure.

#8 2 years ago

If you can manually activate the scoring point relays and they work, this would mean power is not reaching those relay coils. Look at one problem and examine why the 10 point relay doesn't activate. This is a simple circuit and includes the playfield scoring switches and one score motor switch 1C. This score motor switch also controls power to the 100 and 1000 point relays. Check score motor switch 1C with the yellow/black wire and red/white wire. Make sure the switch is clean and adjusted properly.

#9 2 years ago

Hi Boise_D
in the JPG, post-4, N-10-Point-Relay, Wire-Slate-White-Red soldered-on to one side of the Coil. Toggle-off and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - lift the playfield and inspect it --- at some places You have stand-up leaf-switches behind a rubber --- see one ? See on the switch the same color Slate-White-Red ? Establish an permanent jumpering connecting "Playfield-switch-color-Slate-White-Red" to "Coil on N-10-Point-Relay, side Slate-White-Red". Then plug-in, toggle-on, start a game --- question: Do You NOW get some ten points ? Greetings Rolf

#10 2 years ago

Hi Rolf,
Thank you for this bypass testing suggestion.
I will try it as soon as possible. I will be at the pinball show in Tacoma this weekend.

1 week later
#11 2 years ago

I tested the L, M, N relays and they seem fine. I did a tone (continuity) test to the jones plug also. Interesting the that all 3 go to the same 2 jones plug wires.
Next I looked at the 3C motor switch, and one contact was never closing. Aha! I manually tested it first and it worked! I got both chimes and score. I adjusted the switch. I'm wondering if my cat somehow bumped this open. I don't think I have been near the motor switches.

Now, I have discovered a new problem. The out hole is not kicking the ball over to the shooter lane. This was working before. Anyway, I am very happy the score and chimes are working again, and I'm making progress. Thank you for the score motor switch suggestion fredsmythson .

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