(Topic ID: 272861)

Royal Flush next problem: 2 players at start

By DCRand

3 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by DCRand
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

This is one of those games where every time I think I have the last problem solved, find or create a new one. Now at start up it shows two players. But never goes to second player after losing the first ball, and never goes to second ball at all in there how many balls you play.

At start up it fires both the player reset coil and the add a player coil on the ad player stepper. It’s not a mechanical problem the stepper is working fine. But I can’t find why it’s firing both coils instead of just the reset.

In fixing the last problem I had to unpin and hinge up the score motor and clean and adjust a number of score motor contacts. I’m afraid I did something to cause the current problem, because this is a new problem, just can’t figure out what..

#2 3 years ago

Check all the wire connections on the score motor for connections touching.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

Check all the wire connections on the score motor for connections touching.

Thanks, that is what I thought. Have looked twice. The add a player is fired through a switch on the U relay. And by blocking that switch I can keep it from firing. But it looks like the u relay is part of the normal start up. So I think I have to look down stream from the u relay.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

the add a player coil on the ad player stepper.

Are you talking about the "Add Coin Unit" solenoid or the "Add Player Unit" solenoid.
The Coin unit is near the chimes on the bottom board and the Player Unit is in the backbox.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Are you talking about the "Add Coin Unit" solenoid or the "Add Player Unit" solenoid.
The Coin unit is near the chimes on the bottom board and the Player Unit is in the backbox.

Coin unit. Not labeled in my machine, since it adds second through fourth players. Was calling it add a player.

I suspect that since it won’t go to second ball ( but second through how ever many balls kick out and score ) that the two problems are related. And since both started when I was moving and adjusting / cleaning switches on the score motor. That it should be a score motor switch or wire problem. But can’t find it.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

both started when I was moving and adjusting / cleaning switches on the score motor

Sorry but that was a mistake. This forum is full of posts from people who tried shotgun cleaning & adjustments, and caused more problems than they were originally trying to solve.
What to do instead: Slowly and carefully diagnose one problem at a time and then fix only that.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

Quoted from DCRand:

never goes to second player after losing the first ball, and never goes to second ball at all in there how many balls you play.

If the Add Player Unit relay (P) doesn't activate when the ball drains and then kicks across the Trough switch, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Sorry but that was a mistake. This forum is full of posts from people who tried shotgun cleaning & adjustments, and caused more problems than they were originally trying to solve.
What to do instead: Slowly and carefully diagnose one problem at a time and then fix only that.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

If the Add Player Unit relay (P) doesn't activate when the ball drains and then kicks across the Trough switch, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
[quoted image]

Howard, should clarify, wasn't a shotgun cleaning, learned that lesson quite a while ago. Was tracing another problem that went through three different motor switches, and to get to one of them had to pull the pin and tilt up the motor. In doing so, and moving wires to get to the switches needed, sure I goofed up something. Good news, the other problem was with the motor switches and it is solved.

Will do the tracing later this evening after work.

#8 3 years ago

Howard, 1 of 2 fixed. Will start on first player. Not positive but looked like the switch solder tabs on Motor 1C were just touching. Thanks for the help.

Still won’t move to second ball.

And while I was under the playfield decided to fix a few lamp sockets that were loose. And now I have a short in one of the sockets. LOL

#9 3 years ago

Howard, or anyone else who would like to chime in. Good news I found the solder drip, even though I had used a towel under where I was soldering, that caused the light short so that’s fixed.

But feel like I am being dense here. Trough switch is triggering the P relay. But the player unit is not firing. But unless it’s the player unit, I can’t find what makes the game know that it is time to go from ball one to ball two.

When a ball ends and enters the kick out hole, everything seems to work fine, Ball kicks out through trough, drop targets reset, bonus counts down, and if you fire the ball, scoring continues. But the game never moves past ball 1, including the ball count light which stays on 1. What am I missing?

#10 3 years ago

first ball relay energizes at the first scoring on the game. wont advance to P2 until it does, ie if you drain without scoring you get a do over. If it is energizing then there is a dirty contact on it (U relay) that is in the player drive circuit. A quick check of the diagram will give you the wire colors to look for on U.

A lot of times U relay is fried and needs replacing since it stays on more that the GO relay... 3 relay coils to be replaces, hold, GO and U, 1st ball. And if you must the coin lockout relay on the door.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

first ball relay energizes at the first scoring on the game. wont advance to P2 until it does, ie if you drain without scoring you get a do over. If it is energizing then there is a dirty contact on it (U relay) that is in the player drive circuit. A quick check of the diagram will give you the wire colors to look for on U.

A lot of times U relay is fried and needs replacing since it stays on more that the GO relay... 3 relay coils to be replaces, hold, GO and U, 1st ball. And if you must the coin lockout relay on the door.

Thanks, that was just the leap of logic my poor brain was missing. So pulled the U relay, cleaned the slate wh to slate black contact. Put it back. It pulls as soon as first point scores. But was very short on time and can’t tell if ball count advancing because now all back box lights are out. Jeeeezzzzzzz. Something to figure out when I can get back to it in the next couple of days.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Good news, the other problem was with the motor switches and it is solved.

I'm confused. Is "the other problem" the "2 Players at Start" (as in the title of this thread)? If so, what was the problem with the motor switches and what did you do to solve it? Nobody learns anything when you just say "problem solved".

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

I'm confused. Is "the other problem" the "2 Players at Start" (as in the title of this thread)? If so, what was the problem with the motor switches and what did you do to solve it? Nobody learns anything when you just say "problem solved".

Sudsy, the "other problem" is in a separate thread which I marked complete. See "Royal Flush odd drop target scoring problem" thread. The drops weren't scoring when hit, until at first after something else on the play field that scored points was hit which was a bit of an intermittent problem. Then they went to not scoring at all, and it was one of the three motor switches in that scoring sequence that was the problem. And I don't know which one, as cleaned and adjusted all three, then it worked. But my obvious ham handed moving of the score motor, started the next series of problems.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Sudsy, the "other problem" is in a separate thread which I marked complete.

So, you are still having this "2-Player start" problem then, DCRand ? You mention solder tabs were found touching on SCM 1C - not clear to me if that remedied this problem or another one you had.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Trough switch is triggering the P relay. But the player unit is not firing

If the Add Player Unit relay (P) doesn't activate the Add Player Unit solenoid, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires, starting with the Coin Unit wiper and disk.
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

So, you are still having this "2-Player start" problem then, dcrand ? You mention solder tabs were found touching on SCM 1C - not clear to me if that remedied this problem or another one you had.

No, that problem solved. See post number 8 in this thread. At the moment, there are now two problems. Three counting that I seem to be a human wrecking ball when it comes to this game. But of the actual two: Back box lights just went out, and it still won't advance from first to second player even though it will kick a ball out, reset the drop targets, and continue scoring for an infinite number of balls. Which would be pretty cool for running up a huge score, but boring after the 20th or 30th ball and still having the game show ball 1.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

If the Add Player Unit relay (P) doesn't activate the Add Player Unit solenoid, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires, starting with the Coin Unit wiper and disk.
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
[quoted image]

Howard, thanks. That is the circuit path I have suspected has the answer to this issue. But still fairly challenged when it comes to reading schematics. And wasn't sure about the turn back from left to right after the motor 1A switch. Haven't had time to work on it tonight. Will try to get back to it this weekend, around ripping out and replacing my bathroom cabinets. Darn life getting in the way of pinball work.

Also, was using jumper wires to try to diagnose trough switch to P relay, and think that is when I did something to blow back box lights. So first order of business, will be checking fuses for those lights.

As always, appreciate the help.

#18 3 years ago

Ok got it. Yes somewhere in the player advance circuit that HowardR shows is the answer. Although the first advancement (from player 1 ball 1 to player 2 ball 1) would go through the SCM 2C leg of the circuit. Since you have been playing with both the score motor and the U relay, it will likely be one of those switches out of adjustment (U relay or SCM 2D or 1A). I think you already have done this, but make sure the U relay is pulling in after you score points.

For the other problem, as you said already, you likely just need to replace the 12-amp fuse for the backbox.

#19 3 years ago

FIXED. Thank you Thank you Howard. Motor switch C2. The old it looks like it’s touching when closed, honest it does. But it wasn’t. Adjusted a little tighter, and bingo. Or more correctly, second ball.

Now just a few minor lamp fixes, and other adjustment tweaks and it’s ready to make the final decision, add to my line up, or sell it. Will play it a while before deciding. But so far it’s brutal to play. 30,000 points feels like an accomplishment, and that’s not even half way to a free game.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

The old it looks like it’s touching when closed, honest it does. But it wasn’t. Adjusted a little tighter, and bingo. Or more correctly, second ball

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

Thanks, number two got me on this one. Visually I couldn’t see a gap. But in the last diagnosing with power off and turning motor wheel by hand, saw the contact didn’t move slightly when supposedly closed. Adjusted the gap tighter, and fixed.

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