(Topic ID: 354902)

Royal Flush - Drop Target replacement

By FleetMitch

3 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by BubbaK
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 months ago

Buying new plastic was easy - so how do I get the old ones out? Do I need to disassemble all mechanisms along the rod, and then rebuild from center out?

#2 3 months ago

Check out the Goat Shed EM pinball repair videos on YouTube.

#3 3 months ago

I'm one of those people who takes off the back plate, then with a cut-off wheel, cuts out a little section of the metal behind each drop target so that you can just unhook the top spring and pull the target easily out of the mech from the back without unscrewing or loosening anything else. It's a little more work initially, but once you've cut the little sections out of the frame, replacing targets is really easy forever.

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from paulace:

I'm one of those people who takes off the back plate, then with a cut-off wheel, cuts out a little section of the metal behind each drop target so that you can just unhook the top spring and pull the target easily out of the mech from the back without unscrewing or loosening anything else. It's a little more work initially, but once you've cut the little sections out of the frame, replacing targets is really easy forever.

I need to hear more about this method.. I normally unscrew the bottom and other side, then with a wire pull the spring and finegal the target out.

#5 3 months ago

It’s been a lonnnng time since I replaced banks of drop targets(Dimension was fun! : ) but I’ll do my best.
The main part of what I did was take a coat hanger and follow through the targets/bank assembly as you do them and then reverse the process. Steve Young gave me the tip. I can’t even remember what nuts came off but they were on each end. Sorry for the vagueness. Like I wrote the coat hangar was the main part. Hope that makes some sense to you. I also used a dental pick type tool for the springs. The more you do the easier it will get.

#6 3 months ago

Yeah, it's that finegaling part that I was trying to avoid. So I just unscrew that back plate, cut a little square of metal out of the bottom plate behind the bottom of each target, and then once you unhook the top spring, they just come right out easily. The back plate supports the bottom plate, so there doesn't seem to be any structural issue. I think Gottlieb eventually started making the bottom bracket without the little metal pieces behind the drop targets later anyway.

You can do this with the drop target mech in place, which is nice. Just drape a towel over the open cabinet to keep any cutting debris out of the machine.

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from paulace:

Yeah, it's that finegaling part that I was trying to avoid. So I just unscrew that back plate, cut a little square of metal out of the bottom plate behind the bottom of each target, and then once you unhook the top spring, they just come right out easily. The back plate supports the bottom plate, so there doesn't seem to be any structural issue. I think Gottlieb eventually started making the bottom bracket without the little metal pieces behind the drop targets later anyway.
You can do this with the drop target mech in place, which is nice. Just drape a towel over the open cabinet to keep any cutting debris out of the machine.

I know the spot you are talking about and that thought has crossed my mind.. I'll have to pay attention next time I have one apart.

As for grabbing the spring, I use a piece of mig welding wire. I bent a small hook in it and a handle on the other end. Its small enough to hook the spring and makes it easy to hook and unhook the spring from the target. I think a coat hanger is too big.

#8 3 months ago

Oh yeah - coat hanger would be way too big for a spring hook. I think they talk about using a coat hanger as push-rod to slide in as a temporary replacement for the shaft so you can more easily remove the targets.

I'm a piano tuner, and have miles of piano wire, so I just made a spring hook out of that...works great!

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from paulace:

I'm one of those people who takes off the back plate, then with a cut-off wheel, cuts out a little section of the metal behind each drop target so that you can just unhook the top spring and pull the target easily out of the mech from the back without unscrewing or loosening anything else. It's a little more work initially, but once you've cut the little sections out of the frame, replacing targets is really easy forever.

I've also used the method that Paulace describes. Clay Harrell describes it with some pics on his Jumping Jack resto guide...
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/jjpf.htm#targets

#10 3 months ago

DO NOT cut into the frame. Way too invasive. Follow advice above to pop 1 end of the spring off with a small hook on the end of a stiff wire. Take the C clips off both ends of the rod that holds them in place. Then as you slide out that rod, follow it on the other end with the proverbial coat hanger. Then leave a small gap , enough to slide out the target. There is a floppy bar that seems to do nothing that is also barely in the way, pop off one end and let it flop down. Target will come out easily, and this is not difficult. And yes, Steve at PBR says this is how to do it.
Bob, in Vt

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

I've also used the method that Paulace describes. Clay Harrell describes it with some pics on his Jumping Jack resto guide...
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/jjpf.htm#targets

Pictures makes sense. Thanks for the link..

paulace That makes more sense for the coat hanger.. I thought he was trying to pull springs with it. Piano wire is handy to have around for sure..

#12 3 months ago
Quoted from Drain1:

DO NOT cut into the frame. Way too invasive. Follow advice above to pop 1 end of the spring off with a small hook on the end of a stiff wire. Take the C clips off both ends of the rod that holds them in place. Then as you slide out that rod, follow it on the other end with the proverbial coat hanger. Then leave a small gap , enough to slide out the target. There is a floppy bar that seems to do nothing that is also barely in the way, pop off one end and let it flop down. Target will come out easily, and this is not difficult. And yes, Steve at PBR says this is how to do it.
Bob, in Vt

You realize that later on, Gottlieb modified the frame to do exactly what has been discussed here?

It's hardly invasive. You're cutting out very small pieces of metal on the exterior of the frame that aren't needed for anything. Obviously Gottlieb thought this was the way to go.

#13 3 months ago

You guys are making this much harder then it needs to be.... I take the back off then remove the screws holding the top plate, replacing one of them with a small zip-tie to hold the plate somewhat in-place and retain the second set of springs on the fingers. With this top plate loose I can slip the bottom of the drop target out of the slot (swing the plate up), pop it off the finger then use a pick to pop the spring off. I can do a bank of 5 in about 10 minutes depending on the cleanup of the pieces. Taking the center rod out makes a lot of work and only needed if you have to replace badly worn fingers

#14 3 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

You guys are making this much harder then it needs to be.... I take the back off then remove the screws holding the top plate, replacing one of them with a small zip-tie to hold the plate somewhat in-place and retain the second set of springs on the fingers. With this top plate loose I can slip the bottom of the drop target out of the slot (swing the plate up), pop it off the finger then use a pick to pop the spring off. I can do a bank of 5 in about 10 minutes depending on the cleanup of the pieces. Taking the center rod out makes a lot of work and only needed if you have to replace badly worn fingers

This is basically what I do, although I haven't used a zip tie to hold it together.. Usually I deal with it flopping around.

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