Some of your switch "stays" aren't adjusted right.
They are there to hold one side of the switch stationary (more or less) and prevent switch "bouncing". I'd get all of those adjusted first.

I don't think that will cure the issue though.
Most of the time that I see this, it's caused by the drop target dropping too slowly. When knocked down, they should "snap" down very rapidly.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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see here for an example of what Chris is mentioning:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-em-tech-tip-mystery-stuck-switches

If that doesn't yield anything, report back. Then can look at whether X and G are deactivating when they should.

I can also see in the picture that the reset bar is missing a part. There should be a gutter shaped piece of metal along that reset bar. Without it, the reset bar will cut into the "lifting fingers", and eventually, enough that the target won't be lifted far enough to reset.

If you know what to look for, you can see it in this picture:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Volleydrop011.jpg
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.carter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
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Hmm, and now that you mention it, it's also missing all the rubber stops for the triggers too.

(can see the black circle remains of where they were.)

(OK, there are a couple left I see now.)

When a drop target switch closes, it activates (energizes) the X relay.

A switch closing on the X relay activates the G relay (which is the Hole relay; the drop targets score the same as the kickout hole value).

A switch closing on the G relay causes the score motor to run. Since the continuous scoring also has the score motor running, then first need to confirm if it is the G relay causing it.

The X relay is locked on (stays energized) via a switch on itself, and a switch at score motor position 2B. When the switch at motor 2B opens, X should de-energize.

The G relay is locked on via a switch on itself and another switch on the score motor (which I can't make out on the schematic; check yours for the correct one).

So, with the playfield up and the game getting into this state, observe the X and G relays. See if they are both locked on, and pay particular attention to whether they stay locked on 'solid' or whether they show a small moment of de-energizing/re-energizing.

If one is staying on solid, then that suggests the score motor switch for the lock on path isn't opening.

If they 'blip' off then back on, then that suggests a switch back at the drop target is still re-driving X.

Did you observe the X and G relays while the score motor was running? What was the result?

Both of these relays are locked on via score motor switches at position 2B (but different switches). It's not the easiest position to see/access, but those switches would be worth checking to see that they are opening correctly, and that the switch stack there is tight.

First make sure the switch stack screws are in tight (so the switches can't be loose).

In this case, since the lifter blade is pushed up via the cam peg, you may need to bend the whole stack a bit closer to the peg, so that when the peg hits the lifter blade, there's enough lift motion to open the blades being lifted (rather than trying to open the switches more alone).

Working on score motor switches while the board is still in the game is really pretty much a PITA.

And position 2B is about the worst one to access. Sometimes it helps to remove the cotter pin and flip the score motor up. A good, strong light also helps.

Normally I'd suggest doing this with the score motor board pulled out (and systematically going through everything at once), but for just the once issue to resolve there's too much chance of introducing other problems.

Just one pin.

Not to add to the potential for confusion. But it's very possible to have a hard to diagnose switch short on the score motor stacks due to the switch blade contacting the screw holding down the stack. The switch stack should (should) have insulating sleeves that guard against this- however these occasionally crack or are missing (one fell out 30 yrs ago whatever). It really seems like your seeing mid adjusted switches and this is your issue. However, just file this away as something else to consider if it's not immediately apparent why it does not fix. Also- check the back of the switch stack for solder tabs that are bent too close and perhaps making intermittent contact. And finally- The cams on the score motor or possibly the tabs on the bottom of the switch stack that engage the cams- either can be worn to the point where either the switches never fully seat or never fully quite engage. I had a switch stack in a game that was problematic and discovered a few mm wear on one side of a tab on a switch stack and was able to loosen it and just twist it enough so the other half of the tab hit the cam and all was good.

I am not suggesting you inspect these things right now as it seems like you found fishy behavior (oh check for insulating fish tape between switches on stack too)- keep on track with what your doing but remember these potential issues going forward.

Take caution when playing with the score motor. I personally can speak from experience here- it's all to easy to be convinced you took it apart carefully and made it all good when in fact you introduce another problem. Obviously there are many points of failure in there and this is not the place to go in and start ripping apart the entire thing unless your absolutely certain you can read the schematics and adjust every single switch to the correct factory setting. Just go SLOW and make very very sure your working on the right switch! So easy to be wrong and pay for it. I swore up and down I knew what I was doing and rebuilt an entire score motor and then wasted over a week on this forum swearing it could not be the score motor switch stack because I had @fixed it- turns out I had not-

My pleasure sir.
I'm happy to hear that you are making progress.
But let's not stop now...

Royal Flush drop targets will score 1000, 2000, 3000, or 4000 dependent on the number of Jokers made.

...at score motor 2B.

A switch on G causes the score motor to run.

Motor switches at 1A will pulse 5 times per 1/3 revolution.
The logic that implements the 1000 to 4000 scoring is found at row 7 of the schematic, and captured below.

image.jpg

Looking at the motor sequence chart...

image.jpg

...we see that normally closed switches at motor 2C, 3B, and 1B open in turn (shown by the black bars). This circuitry causes one or more of the 1000 point scoring to "drop out" and not be scored.

The easy case to understand is when all 3 jokers have been hit, and 4000 points should be scored.

The motor starts turning, and begins to pulse the 5 times due to motor 1A.
The normally closed motor switch at 4C remains closed until all scoring has been completed.

When the motor reaches the first pulse of motor 1A, the following switches, in series, are all closed...motor 1A, motor 4C, motor 1B, motor 3B, motor 2C, and a switch on G. This causes the game to score 1000 points by energizing relay L (1000 point relay).

When the motor reaches the second pulse of motor 1A, motor 2C has dropped out, so the prior path described can't be followed. But, since the purple joker has been hit (trip relay 3B), the following path can be made to score the second 1000 points. Motor 1A, motor 4C, motor 1B, motor 3B, G, trip relay 3B, and yet another switch on G. Again, L is energized to score 1000.

When the motor reaches the third pulse of motor 1A, motor 3B has dropped out, so once again, another path must be followed. Since the white joker has been hit (trip relay 2B), the following path can be made to score the third 1000 points. Motor 1A, motor 4C, motor 1B, G, trip relay 2B, yet another switch on G, motor 2C, and the final switch on G.

You get the picture, and can extrapolate for the fourth pulse of motor 1A, and scoring the fourth 1000 points.

For the fifth pulse of motor 1A, motor 4C drops out, and no more scoring is possible for the remaining 1/3 revolution of the score motor.

To complete the action, motor 2B (21H on the schematics) opens up, G is "unsealed", the motor continues to run until the switch stack at motor 1C drops into the cam slot, the motor "carry through switch" at motor 1C opens, and the motor stops.
Q.E.D. (all done).

The game is now ready for the next scoring event.

The guys who built these games, all without the aid of computers, were true geniuses.

If you don't have a contact adjuster tool from The Pinball Resource (or other), get one.

Now...soldier on...and get this thing 100%
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chiblr/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

The kickout hole is activated via a normally open switch on G in series with a normally closed switch on X, normally open switch at motor 4C, and a normally closed switch on BX.

G is activated by either the kickout hole switch itself, or X. And X is activated by the drop targets (which score the same value as the kickout hole, as noted above).

But the reason that the normally closed switch on X is in the path is to avoid activating the kickout hole when G is activated via X (i.e. so the drop targets don't activate the kickout hole). The goal is that since X is activated from a drop target, that normally closed switch will be open while X is active, and block the path to activate the kickout hole coil.

Since the game is sometimes able to activate the kickout hole when a drop target is hit, then that suggests the path through that X switch is getting closed while G is still active and motor 4C closes. It could be as simple as adjusting that switch on X (so that it more fully opens).

welcome to my world...

you are in good hands though...

Yep.

Did you tighten the switch stacks on X and G before making adjustments?

Some pictures might yield some clues also.

It's basically a timing interaction between those motor 2B switches and X and G switches.

Another possibility is that the armature plate on G has gotten magnetized and isn't releasing as well. Or the spring is a bit tired. If G is slow in releasing, then it can do weird things like this. Can try swapping springs with another relay (just to see if it's an improvement).

Another thing to check, just to be sure, is that the "switch dogs" haven't been moved. There are 5 of them on RF. All of them should be in the "S" position with the exception of motor 2C, which should be in the "L" position. Sometimes people shotgunning will move these switch dogs, and mess up the timing of the score motor switches.

Some advice...don't adjust anything unless you have a strong reason for doing that. Don't simply "try" something. Reason through the schematics. "Trying" results in switches getting so far out of adjustment that it takes much longer to get the game working again.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

look on your schematic on the left side, for the thing that looks like a tuning fork with an 'S' and 'L' on it. That's the switch dog bracket. The switch dog is the black metal insert that sits in the 'S' or 'L' slots in the bracket.

motor 2B, X, and G

The switch dog on 2C looks fine.

But on 2B, I see fishpaper on the inside switch, but I can't quite tell if there's fishpaper on the next switch. When that switch stack lifts, are those separated blades able to touch?

X and G look OK from appearances at least.

It's just a strip of paper that insulates in between two blades. You'll see several pieces of it in the switch stack at 2C, for example. They just kind of float in between the metal blades (see pic #4).

Tough to tell much, as good as those pics are.
Could you recap, what exactly is the behavior you are seeing?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpges.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

First clue is that the kickout hole should not be kicking
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpags.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

No. And you should stop attempting to adjust the springs. That's a shotgun move. In all my years of fixing EM games, I've never had to take a loop out of a relay spring.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpags.charter.net/chibler/Pinbal/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info