(Topic ID: 130863)

Rottendog vs. Used original Williams Driver board


By Zampinator

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by someoneelse
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“What board would you choose?”

  • New Rottendog board 8 votes
    31%
  • Used Working Williams original board 18 votes
    69%

(26 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

#1 4 years ago

My FT needs a new driver board. The seller has offered two replacement options:A) a perfect working used Williams oem board, or B) pay 50% towards a New Rottendog board. It would cost me about $150. Which would you choose & why?
Thanks,
Zamp

#2 4 years ago

The OEM board. Rottendog boards are not 100% correct.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from WonkoTSane:

The OEM board. Rottendog boards are not 100% correct.

What's not 100% correct? I was under the understanding that they are, except improved in some ways.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from Zampinator:

What's not 100% correct?

I have found connectors where the pins are not in the correct order and have had to change wiring to make things work. Other people have found small issues like power supply boards where the 12v filtered and 12v unfiltered are backwards because of board design issues.

An OEM board that has not been hacked will be the way the manufacturer intended. An aftermarket board may not be.

#5 4 years ago

Jim makes and supports a great product. That being said, always go OEM if given the choice (unless we are talking Plasma displays vs. LED).

With OEM you have plenty of folks who understand the logic, plenty of places to get schematics, etc,,,,

#6 4 years ago

Rottendog every time Rather have a new board vs old. have never had a problem with over 12+ boards from Jim.

#7 4 years ago

My only experiences with Rottendog boards are the cheap fuse clips he uses. Most of my repairs to those boards have been replacing broken fuse clips.

Quoted from Patofnaud:

unless we are talking Plasma displays vs. LED

Not sure about this statement. I only had one game with an LED display and it went bad in 2 months. Replaced it with a HV board and plasma and it's been running fine for 2 years.

#8 4 years ago

On my TZ, I went with a PinLED driver board. No wiring issues that I came across, and my +5v is stronger and stabler than snot on a bagel. Was really pleased with it. (Plus, I got SCHEMATICS for it, so if anything DOES blow, I can fix it.)

#9 4 years ago

I say go original if you can. I have had 5 problems with Rottondog over the years. They have saved 15 games for me, but 5 were a pain in the ass to fix.

#10 4 years ago

The support from Jim is the reason I would go the Rottendog way on this one.

#11 4 years ago

Can't vouch for Rottendog based on some experiences I've had. Good luck though.

#12 4 years ago

I've used tons of RD boards, good stuff.

Of course there have been some bumps in the road over the years that have gotten fixed, but obviously, there were problems on the Williams boards, too.

#13 4 years ago

If you know how to repair stuff, go OEM
if you are not handy with electronics, go RD

#14 4 years ago

Either or, I'll tell you this, you won't find a better guy to deal with than Jim if something is wrong with his products. The guy enjoys helping people with problems and fixes them in a timely manner. Good dude!

#15 4 years ago

I went with the used Williams board, Everything is working 100%
Thank you for all of the input

#16 4 years ago

Good call! Rottendog is decent, and redesigned boards will be more and more useful as old components become obsolete. At this point, though, original boards are easy to find parts for and plenty of people understand them.

I've had issues with 2/3 of the Rottendog boards I've put into games. None were difficult to fix, but I don't expect to have to dick around with a practically new board.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

Good call! Rottendog is decent, and redesigned boards will be more and more useful as old components become obsolete. At this point, though, original boards are easy to find parts for and plenty of people understand them.
I've had issues with 2/3 of the Rottendog boards I've put into games. None were difficult to fix, but I don't expect to have to dick around with a practically new board.

Believe you story, just curious what problems you had. looking to learn for future reference. Hope you can share some specifics.

Thx.

#18 4 years ago

I have several Rottendog boards with no problems for several years now.

#19 4 years ago

No one is suggesting that every rotten dog board is garbage or anything. So posts like "I've had rottendog boards working" don't really disprove what people are saying is wrong with them.

For the most part, rottendog boards are decent options. I've used them a lot. The power driver boards are not stable in TZ or sttng - those games reset with them. I've experienced this several times over the years. Swapping the rd board with say TZ and an Adams family allows both machines to work. I'd happily use a rd in a wpc game as long as it's not one of the two above.

I was the one that discovered and wrote a post on the 12v problem on the data east power board. It's a real issue that still exists today. I contacted Jim about it and never got a response.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

I was the one that discovered and wrote a post on the 12v problem on the data east power board. It's a real issue that still exists today. I contacted Jim about it and never got a response

I had the same problem with one and the answer was to switch the 12v from regulated to unregulated as the originals were designed but it still did not fix the problem with the DMD getting scrambled. Putting in another Data East board did fix the problem, but later I found out that slightly low line voltage was the real culprit. The Rottendog board is more sensative to line voltage fluxuations.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

The power driver boards are not stable in TZ or sttng - those games reset with them. I've experienced this several times over the years.

This is kind of funny because I used a RD PDB only in my TZ and my STTNG while the original boards were out for servicing.
Being lazy it stayed in TZ for almost a year and in STTNG for at least 8 months.

While i never had any resets or other major problems, both games showed massive ghosting with the insert LEDs (the "good ones" = "non-ghosting" LEDs) using the RD PDB. After changing back to the original boards ghosting was completely gone again. It's hard to describe, but in my lack of technical expertise the Rottendog board feels as if it slightly "overpowers" the games.

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