Outside of the displays which do in a pinch but not my favorites, everything else Rottendog makes is dogshite.

Who is the new owner?

I have several of their rectifier boards in my early Ballys. And one solenoid driver board. And a MPU for my Jokerz! machine. No problems with them. And they all are several years old. We'll see how they hold up over time.

We have a couple of Rottondog boards in our TAF. Driver board and sound board. They have been in there for 5 years, no issues.

I have always had pretty good luck with RD

I have had a rottendog video board for my bsd. No issues for four yrs. ymmv

I have Rottendog MPU, DMD board, 8-driver board, and fliptronics board in my STTNG and they have all been rock solid. I got the game really cheap and they came with it. I'm not sure of the manufacture date of the boards.

Had a customer witha rottendog power driver bd. Wrong triacs for GI circuit. Hard to diagnose.

What was bad that made it cost $165? I've fixed a few of their boards and none of them cost that much. Either your board was really messed up or I don't charge enough... One of the boards I fixed was the MPU/Driver combo that someone mixed up a couple connectors installing and took out the display driver chip on the RD board.

I'm not a fan of the small pads and really thin traces but I know of a lot of their boards have been running well for years.

Replacing the components is cheap, most components are cheap. Having the knowledge to find the components is the expensive part. Most guys who do board repair have backlogs of jobs to do.

I just saw ChrisHibler post in another thread that he had a backlog of 90 days

Where did you get a 326 board? Seems like they stopped making them a long time ago and they haven't been available for a few years.

I've put a few in customer's games and have had good luck. Even put one in a BK, which later versions had sound issues with. I've used lots of RD boards over the years and have only had a couple minor issues. That 326 board is likely the most loaded board they ever made. Lots and lots of components.

Yeah you make a good point. The cost to value on these boards is declining. Anything higher than that and it's cheaper to buy a more expensive board you can rely on.

For the early Williams if your MPU and driver aren’t eaten up by battery corrosion it’s less to completely go through your original boardset than buying just that combo board. Just wrapping up a whole set for a Laserball.

I accidentally shorted a lamp socket replacing a bulb (don't ask) on my RD DataEast driver board.....now one row of lamps don't work. Does RD fix their own boards or do I need to find someone to repair it? I don't see anything on their web page anymore about repairs.

Anyone who shows me a repair estimate from a faulty rottondog board ill give you a really nice discount on an equivalent pinball basement reproduction board to help meet new customers.

Probably an easy repair. Possibly lamp driver transistor is out for that row.

Thanks. I'm going to try replacing the transistor and if that doesn't work I will send for repair. I confirmed its the board by using another known working board in its place.

I can tell you that board repair guys absolutely hate this statement.
You really should send it to a pro to get it done right.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Chris, I will be in contact soon about a new WPC89 board. To get it professionally done right.

Chris told me that he is not repairing rottendog boards anymore due to the shitty build quality. Wanted him to repair a system 80 driver board that's doing some crazy stuff. He wouldn't take it

Can you elaborate on what the build issues were? So far the build quality on all the Rottendog boards I've had to repair was good. Main issues I had were that they have tiny pads and the leads on the IC's are folded which make repairs a pain but that aside I saw no issues with build quality. Was it a particular board?

He didn't give me a exact reason just that he wasn't doing the rottendog boards due to quality issues. The board I was wanting to send him was a gottlieb system 80b driver board that would lock coils on on power up. My old gottlieb board went in and fired right up.

I've never had any of their Gottlieb boards in for repairs. Just their WPC and all in one early Williams combo boards.

I'll send you one if you want to give it a shot. I would like to have it repaired if possible.

@robotworkshop, as codered9394 mentioned, I decline the opportunity to repair RD System 80 MPUs and WPC/WPC95 MPUs due to build quality.

I might have crossed signals with codered about the Gottlieb driver board. I will repair those, along with WPC driver boards.

The build quality issues with the RD MPUs are what you mentioned.
...the traces are super fine.
...the via holes sometimes almost miss the trace
...the board layout is sometimes different
...the schematics suck. Original schematics can't reliably be used

While I'm complaining about RD, the connectors used suck. The PS have known issues with design. The boards "creak" when flexed, which makes me wonder about solder joints.

I won't work on Swemmer System 80 MPUs either. OEM schematics don't match that board either.

I'm glad aftermarket boards are available, but I'd repair a janky OEM board any day before using some of the aftermarket boards that are out there.

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Cool. Thanks for the update Chris

It is not a rotten dog board by the way. It is a new just shipped replacement board from pinball basement, that arrived with cold solder joints on two transistors. After two bad boards in a row, not dealing with basement anymore.

I had someone ship me a few WPC driver boards for repair. One was a Pinball Basement driver. I noticed the nut and bolt on the smaller heatsink had come loose and fell off in the shipping box. I re-installed those (tightly) and didn't see anything burned up so just returned that board. It is so new that it should have been covered under warranty and asked the owner to send it to them to check out. Didn't want to charge for a repair that they could have covered under warranty.

Hey all - I've had a Rottendog BPS022 running fine in my EBD for the last couple years and this morning the scoring displays were showing garbage (alternate dim/bright, blank displays get random segments lit, displays flashing on and off, etc.). Put in an Alltek SDB, all was fine.

Something is amiss with the Rottendog high voltage circuit - here are the test point values:

TP1: +5.2VCD (ok)
TP2: +12.4VDC (ok)
TP3: +240.4VDC (should be +300VDC)
TP4: +240.4VDC (should be +180VDC)

Board is clean, and I suspect the HV voltage regulator at U1 (LM317HVT). I have a replacement LM317HVT but the heat sink on the original is attached with a rivot and I can't figure out how to get it off. Suggestions? And presuming I get it off, can I just secure the heat sink to the new LM317HVT with a screw and nut?

Rottendog SDB (resized).jpg

Rottendog SDB (U1) 01 (resized).jpg

Rottendog SDB (U1) 02 (resized).jpg

I recently got a Riverboat Gambler Williams System 11C and the hum and noise buzzing coming from speakers was unbearable. It has a RD System 11 B/C power supply. Read in forums that the Rottendog PS was much worse than original for this. I did a lot of testing and found a large capacitor on the +12V stopped the higher frequency buzz noise and a lot of the humming.
Here is a photo of the fix:

Rottendog System11 PS Fix (resized).jpg

When they are riveted you typically have to drill out the rivet the use a screw and nut to secure the replacement. Just watch out for metal shavings.

That would be DumbAss and there is another that has had a lot of issues with QC and customer service, but makes new boards, @Pinball_Basement. I would like to see that business get their shit together.

TP3 should be around 240VDC, not 300VDC
Your TP4 being the same voltage as TP3 means the the U1 regulator input to output pins are shorted as you suspected.
Note your board has an uprated regulator "TL783C" that has a higher voltage differential spec of input to output (125V) vs the LM317HVT/LM317AHVT of only 60VDC
These are below spec for this application where the output is configured for 180VDC.

See here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/u1-lm317hvt-on-rottendog-drive-board-question#post-5111487

The LM317 were a common failure on those Rottendog boards.

Thanx for the link to that discussion. Thinking maybe I'll just do away with the HV on this Rottendog for good and be done with it. I'm running LED displays in my Mata Hari....maybe I'll put the Rottendog in there and pull the HV fuse while running the original, working Bally SDB from my Mata Hari in my EBD.

Sounds like a good plan..

Pinball basement I will take you up in a system 3-7 combo board got a brand new today and transistors were blown straight out of the gate. Changed the first one and then 3 more went. Hoping pinball wizard will go good for it or rebuild it But I got a new original pcb and sending the original driver board out for rebuilding I put it in a disco fever. I have voltage issues to so I need to solve that but I found the 28v for the coils fuse missing I feel bad for my customer paying for the troubleshooting.

my rottendog board is a different version....can anyone show me where to add the large capacitor to eliminate the humm in my diner

IMG_0800 (resized).jpg

still looking for a solution for the hummmmmm

Two different boards shown for WDP011C power supply

Somewhere between the WDP011C shown by Kent_Diego and the WDP011C board shown by zerbam -- RD finally read the data sheet for the regulator and added bulk filtering to the unregulated 12V supply. Kent's board did not appear to have bulk filtering installed which is what the added 12000uF axial electroltyic cap does. On the zerbam photo - bulk filtering is already installed.

These WMS sound boards didn't hum when WMS used their own isolated 12v supply and voltage regulator for the sound board. Kind of hard to go back to that setup, but isolating the sound board power supplies should helps. Starting at system 9 you basically have to live with some level of background hum. Can't see the back of the board, but the ground traces look kind of thin on that board. I have cleaned up hum on a sound board just by doing the ground better. In the Bullseye 301, which used a bootleg of the WMS sound board, they ended up soldering wires on the back of the board to the v-reg, filter cap, amplifier grounds. I thought "what the hell is this" and cut it of, started humming bad. They used puny little ground traces.

There is a thread somewhere about people putting a buck/boost regulator in line with the sound board +12v on other games(DE?) to clean up hum you all might find interesting and couple possibly be applied here.

Been working on the Bally Eight Ball Deluxe....
Put new CPU in an a Rotten Dog Driver Board.
Then my Squawk &Talk stopped working....
Test the Squawk & Talk in my fully working eight ball Deluxe.... board works.....
Pulled a spare original driver board works fine....
Put a new HomePin Driver Board in works fine....

So what is the issue with the rotten dog board....
My game doesn't seem to like it or is there something blown on this board....
with the rotten dog driver board all I get is garbage coming out of the speaker......
The Squawk & Talk flashs fine ....

IMG_20230715_154221903 (resized).jpg

Have you measured the voltages on the Rottendog driver?