(Topic ID: 307296)

Rottendog Power Driver Board – Replaced transistor = flashers weak?

By AaronZOOM

2 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by G-P-E
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#1 2 years ago

I recently had an issue with my IJ where the right ramp flashers were all locked on. Thanks to some digging and some guidance from Pinside, it was isolated to a single faulty transistor on my Rottendog driver board (WDB089). I replaced it, and that seemed to solve the problem of the flashers staying on, but now the flashers in question are…dimmer? Only the ones associated with the right ramp, though – all other flashers are just as bright as ever. You can see it in this test mode video comparing the normal bright left ramp flashers to the now dimmer right ramp:

The Rottendog board is laid out a bit different than the original board was. For one it has far fewer transistors than listed in the original manual, and instead has a whole bunch of what appears to be surface mount resistors on the backside of the board behind the transistors, making transistor replacement a little trickier. I wish I had taken a picture, but everything is already hooked back up.

Anyone with a Rottendog power board have any insight on this? Problem with the new transistor? Improper placement of the resistor on the backside? Something else I’m missing? I’m still an amateur when it comes to electronic components, so any simple explanation or thoughts on a possible solution is appreciated!

Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

What transistor part number did you install? The Rottendog board does not use TIP102 parts.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

What transistor part number did you install? The Rottendog board does not use TIP102 parts.

It doesn't? Well, shoot. I used a TIP102 transistor to replace the transistor at Q24 based on the advice I got in another thread.

What should I have used?

#4 2 years ago

What was the part labeled that you did remove?

I ask because I don't currently have access to a Rottendog WPC driver board schematic.

The OEM Bally/Williams WPC driver board does use TIP102 transistors.

#5 2 years ago

Aw hell. I just used TIP102 since that's what I had on hand, and what was recommended to me. Stupidly, I never thought to read the actual component myself, which is 100% my fault.

Looking at it now, I see this:
Screenshot 2022-01-03 174710 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2022-01-03 174710 (resized).jpg
You can see the replacement at Q24 amongst all the board originals.

Thanks for that! Maybe you can help me out with one more thing...
Of all the markings on the Rottendog component, I'm not sure what to call this other transisitor (H16 FQP 13N10L?). i.e. What should I actually be searching for on DigiKey?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

It doesn't? Well, shoot. I used a TIP102 transistor to replace the transistor at Q24 based on the advice I got in another thread.
What should I have used?

I think the RD board uses a MOSFET, which basically only needs a voltage on the gate, where as the TIP102 needs some base current (which the RD board can't supply).

Doing a quick google search looks like it's a 20N10L?

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

looks like it's a 20N10L

Correct, which is according to the schematic. Looks like the board originally used FQP13N10L parts.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Aw hell. I just used TIP102 since that's what I had on hand, and what was recommended to me. Stupidly, I never thought to read the actual component myself, which is 100% my fault.
Looking at it now, I see this:
[quoted image]
You can see the replacement at Q24 amongst all the board originals.
Thanks for that! Maybe you can help me out with one more thing...
Of all the markings on the Rottendog component, I'm not sure what to call this other transisitor (H16 FQP 13N10L?). i.e. What should I actually be searching for on DigiKey?

Search for 13N10L

Edit: Just saw the post above my post that the 20N10L might be correct after all...

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Aw hell. I just used TIP102 since that's what I had on hand, and what was recommended to me. Stupidly, I never thought to read the actual component myself, which is 100% my fault.
Looking at it now, I see this:
[quoted image]
You can see the replacement at Q24 amongst all the board originals.
Thanks for that! Maybe you can help me out with one more thing...
Of all the markings on the Rottendog component, I'm not sure what to call this other transisitor (H16 FQP 13N10L?). i.e. What should I actually be searching for on DigiKey?

This:
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2123

(Same marking)

#10 2 years ago

Thanks, all! Back on track - appreciate the help.

#11 2 years ago

IRL540 is a good substitute for 20N10L.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/IRL540

#12 2 years ago

You beat me to the punch. Searching for the 20N10L, seems like that might be a discontinued part?

Ditto on the IRL540. If the OP was in the states, I'd send him one!

#14 2 years ago

It's a bog standard MOSFET rated at 13 amps 100 volts with a low voltage gate trigger (hence the "L" in the part number).

Pretty much any common low gate voltage MOSFET will work here - it is not critical.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Thanks, all! Back on track - appreciate the help.

Might as well order a few since they are fairly cheap. Likely shipping is the biggest cost.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from pins4u:

It's a bog standard MOSFET rated at 13 amps 100 volts with a low voltage gate trigger (hence the "L" in the part number).
Pretty much any common low gate voltage MOSFET will work here - it is not critical.

Good to hear, I'd prefer to order from within Canada. Ordering from Marco is a minimum $40 international shipping charge, which goes for most pinball-specific suppliers in the States.

I'll just grab a handful of 13N10L transistors from a local supplier. Thanks!

#17 2 years ago

Another sub that is a bit better and tends to be easier to find is IRL530N (full part number is IRL530NPBF).

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