(Topic ID: 332746)

Rottendog MPU327 and 9211

By Bill62

1 year ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Bill62
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

Purchased both the Rottendog 327 and 9211 boards at considerable expense to upgrade two working great and no issues Firepower and Space Shuttle games. The logic and rational for me was to replace the old boards with something that would allow potentially years more of enjoyment since the original boards are 40 years old and have probably seen a lot of banging around and use. Both Rottendog boards have completely failed to perform as described/sold, and after 72 hours of waiting for a response, all I get is "did you check the dip switches" and "try the opposite switch setting" (!). Come on. Seems like the response could of been a more inquisitive or maybe more helpful at best. Both games are now with the Rottendog boards playing erratically, scoring incorrectly, and function/system menus are unattainable.

Knowing that there are a countless number of negative posts about these boards as well as the lack of support for them once you buy/pay them, should I just send the working original boards out for reconditioning now that they are out of the machines? Who is best for this? Appreciate the guidance. I just want to play my favorite games!

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill62:

Purchased both the Rottendog 327 and 9211 boards at considerable expense to upgrade two working great and no issues Firepower and Space Shuttle games. The logic and rational for me was to replace the old boards with something that would allow potentially years more of enjoyment since the original boards are 40 years old and have probably seen a lot of banging around and use. Both Rottendog boards have completely failed to perform as described/sold, and after 72 hours of waiting for a response, all I get is "did you check the dip switches" and "try the opposite switch setting" (!). Come on. Seems like the response could of been a more inquisitive or maybe more helpful at best. Both games are now with the Rottendog boards playing erratically, scoring incorrectly, and function/system menus are unattainable.
Knowing that there are a countless number of negative posts about these boards as well as the lack of support for them once you buy/pay them, should I just send the working original boards out for reconditioning now that they are out of the machines? Who is best for this? Appreciate the guidance. I just want to play my favorite games!

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

...But you should make sure the bridge rectifier fuse mod is in place (on Firepower at least, not sure on space shuttle) and consider having the batteries mounted remotely or installing nvram to eliminate batteries altogether.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
...But you should make sure the bridge rectifier fuse mod is in place (on Firepower at least, not sure on space shuttle) and consider having the batteries mounted remotely or installing nvram to eliminate batteries altogether.

Yes, lesson learned! Both original boards have have the nvram and I've done the Vid fuse mod on both as well.

#4 1 year ago

Your OEM boards are far superior in manufacturing quality.

Yes. Send them to your favorite board guy. I can take care of them if you wish.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Your OEM boards are far superior in manufacturing quality.
Yes. Send them to your favorite board guy. I can take care of them if you wish.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

Thank you Chris. I'll look into your services.

1 week later
#6 1 year ago

Rottendog boards are far from an upgrade.

Games like Firepower need all connectors repinned for added reliability.

Can you post a picture of the boards installed in the games?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Rottendog boards are far from an upgrade.
Games like Firepower need all connectors repinned for added reliability.
Can you post a picture of the boards installed in the games?

Hi, and thanks for reaching out. I put the original board back in Space Shuttle and it’s playing normal. I tried to do that in FP but the old boards didn’t boot up (didn’t survive the swap out/in again). Here’s a picture of the RD MPU327 back in and same issues remain (function menu not accessible and incorrect scoring)

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#8 1 year ago

I know they can be frustrating. I’ve fix both boards. If you swapped/added your own chips to the 9211 board and they are bad or not making good contact it wont work. The dip switches look correct on your mpu327. I would go into test mode to see if you can find what is scoring incorrectly. If you put your formally working old board in and push on the chips and 40. Pin connector it will probably boot again for you.

#9 1 year ago

Thanks pindel for the reply. I had the 9211 board built with all new chips. I was told that you could not use the original, at least in the Space Shuttle system. FP, I would love to get into the test/function setting mode, but that is the main issue. The coin door Advance only works up to the bookkeeping settings, then (I think at function 18) it won’t advance to the test or game settings. As I try to advance, the ball kicks out like starting a game and game resets back to function 00 as I recall. Otherwise, it pretty much plays great, (sound, lights, coils) except 2 small abnormalities. FIRE can light with only 3 letters completed and the Shield comes on with only 5 of the 6 targets hit. After this happens, it plays normal again as far as I can tell. It’s only a one time “error” per startup.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill62:

Thanks pindel for the reply. I had the 9211 board built with all new chips. I was told that you could not use the original, at least in the Space Shuttle system. FP, I would love to get into the test/function setting mode, but that is the main issue. The coin door Advance only works up to the bookkeeping settings, then (I think at function 18) it won’t advance to the test or game settings. As I try to advance, the ball kicks out like starting a game and game resets back to function 00 as I recall. Otherwise, it pretty much plays great, (sound, lights, coils) except 2 small abnormalities. FIRE can light with only 3 letters completed and the Shield comes on with only 5 of the 6 targets hit. After this happens, it plays normal again as far as I can tell. It’s only a one time “error” per startup.

The space shuttle does need special roms which You must have or it wouldn’t work. For firepower, It sounds like you are going into bookkeeping vs test. So depress the center button and advance one, you should see display test. Release center button and it will flow through displays. Then you can advance to the other test.

#11 1 year ago

For starters someone put a toggle switch in the middle and not the normal push button, but I don’t think that’s the issue as it all worked with the original boards. So following the manual (and what you said) I put it in manual down and depress Advance. I do get all displays going blank for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes right into audit mode (04-00 and the games ID in player 1). If I restart the machine again and start over, quickly try to beat the blank displays to get it advanced to diagnostics, it does the same thing. Goes to Audit Mode.

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#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill62:

For starters someone put a toggle switch in the middle and not the normal push button, but I don’t think that’s the issue as it all worked with the original boards. So following the manual (and what you said) I put it in manual down and depress Advance. I do get all displays going blank for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes right into audit mode (04-00 and the games ID in player 1). If I restart the machine again and start over, quickly try to beat the blank displays to get it advanced to diagnostics, it does the same thing. Goes to Audit Mode.
[quoted image]

Bill it's correct with the toggle and your Shuttle uses a button

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#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill62:

Purchased both the Rottendog 327 and 9211 boards at considerable expense to upgrade two working great and no issues Firepower and Space Shuttle games. The logic and rational for me was to replace the old boards with something that would allow potentially years more of enjoyment since the original boards are 40 years old and have probably seen a lot of banging around and use. Both Rottendog boards have completely failed to perform as described/sold, and after 72 hours of waiting for a response, all I get is "did you check the dip switches" and "try the opposite switch setting" (!). Come on. Seems like the response could of been a more inquisitive or maybe more helpful at best. Both games are now with the Rottendog boards playing erratically, scoring incorrectly, and function/system menus are unattainable.
Knowing that there are a countless number of negative posts about these boards as well as the lack of support for them once you buy/pay them, should I just send the working original boards out for reconditioning now that they are out of the machines? Who is best for this? Appreciate the guidance. I just want to play my favorite games!

Unless there were a bunch of hacks or battery damage the original boards run well once properly refreshed and appropriate updates done. If they are clean boards and working there is no reason to look for alternatives. I run original boards in almost all my games but do have a couple with some Rottendog boards.

For games where the original boards were trashed or missing then some of the Rottendog boards can be a good option. That 327 board you pictured appears to be the latest version of that board. There were issues on the really early version to watch out for but the one you bought should work well. I've used a couple and know others that run that board. You do need to check the DIP switches on the boards on each one since the markings for 1 and 0 are often backwards from what you would expect. That gets a lot of people and probably why they led with that as one of the responses.

On the 9211 board I have one that I ran in a Grand Lizard for a while when I was rebuilding the original boards for that game. System 11 games it seems to work ok in. System 9 machines are a bit more involved.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill62:

For starters someone put a toggle switch in the middle and not the normal push button, but I don’t think that’s the issue as it all worked with the original boards. So following the manual (and what you said) I put it in manual down and depress Advance. I do get all displays going blank for about 2-3 seconds and then it goes right into audit mode (04-00 and the games ID in player 1). If I restart the machine again and start over, quickly try to beat the blank displays to get it advanced to diagnostics, it does the same thing. Goes to Audit Mode.
[quoted image]

Yes, that is the correct switch. You should be able to switch down and hit advance. Everything goes out. Then hit advance again. It should go into display mode. If your switch is upside down then it would be the opposite. I’f it doesn’t do that I would assume there is a board issue

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#15 1 year ago

Good to know on the toggle switch. Thank you to Mike and pindel. I was comparing to Space Shuttle. The displays go out like it should, then pressing Advance again it just resets back to ready mode (credits come back, high score, all displays on). Like I said, it plays pretty well, just can’t set it to free play or make adjustments to scoring, because I can’t get into the Game Adjustments or Diagnostic menus. Crazy!

#17 1 year ago

Thank you again to everyone. Here is the latest update:

I put back in the original 2 boards (once again) and can access the game menu's, etc. So, clearly a defective RG MPU327 board. Pinball Wizard will accept a return, so I'm very happy for that customer service. However, pulling off the connectors multiple, multiple times has caused a few minor issues, so more research is needed to find out which connectors are now defective. Bottomline, I just should have left it all alone!!!

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