Have you spoken with RD? I know that would be my first move. This is not normal in any sense of the word. Not only that but I have never heard of such an issue. Crazy Man!

Did you ever have the opportunity to check for voltage spikes or high voltages on the lines.
-Mime

I agree 100% but how?
The mpu would have to somehow be allowing too much voltage into the lights. So I wonder if you could get one of those fancy multimeters that has memory and records it's highest reading, then play for a while or let sit in burn in mode or both and see if you get a spike. High voltage is obviously coming onto the lights.
-Mike

This is a great example of why you should not use aftermarket modifications such as LED's or supposed "improved" boardsets. Think aboot if a home or business was affected by a machine fire.

Those boards are fairly cheap, why not just swap another one in and problem solved? That way you don't have to wait for RD to get back to you and waste all of your time - and you're right, their responses are very hit and miss.

I have a RD board in my bride also for a couple years or so. Never had an issue with it

I had an issue with a T2 with an original boardset a while back. LEDs were melting, and solenoid fuses were blowing occasionally. There didn't seem to be anything in common as to which LEDs melted, since they were on different rows & columns in the lamp matrix. Then unexpectedly, the DMD glass cracked. Then I rebuilt the DMD board and replaced the DMD, and no more melted LEDs. It's been almost a year since then, and the melting LED issue hasn't resurfaced.

I still don't quite understand if/how the two things were related, or if it was just coincidence. But for what it's worth, there's another avenue to possibly investigate.

The feature lamps work by strobing 18v quickly to get average around 6v. If the 18v is locked on a lamp would look really bright and an LED may burn up. I suppose the MPU could be at fault, but it could be something on the power driver board or even the LEDs themselves.

Your other thread shows another possible common denominator... budget LEDs with a current limiting resistor value to achieve max brightness at the sake of longevity. Maybe a bad batch of LEDs so maybe trying a higher quality SMT style LED. The SMT ones are so much better quality that its worth it.

Are you using the same asic chip between boards?

The ASIC on the MPU tells the driver board to read the CPU data bits to use those to update the lamps. The rest of the lamp driving is done on the power driver board.

For MPU to be a problem it would have to be telling the driver board to leave on the lamps and not strobe them rapidly. Make sure no pins on the asic got damaged when you moved it over to the new board.

Best I can tell the Rdog MPU is pretty faithful to the original WMS design electrically so I don't think it would be a design of the replacement board issue.

I was a tester for Jim and his boards for several years. He was always good in helping troubleshoot. I hope his suggestions fix your issue.