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(Topic ID: 244881)

Rottendog MPU089 melting LEDs


By Its_me_aj

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Its_me_aj
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 1 year ago

So previously I made a post that my funhouse has a bunch of issues and melted all the controlled lights into puddles of plastic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-melted-leds-and-blown-solenoid-fuses

Well fast forward to a couple weeks ago, I had my bride of pinbot at the Rocky Mountain showdown and it died on me at the show. I needed a MPU so I pulled the one from funhouse to make it through the show and everything was fine for the remaining time of the weekend. So yesterday I finally had time to set up bride and see what I could figure out with the original mpu. I set it up, checked everything out and turned it on.

There were only like 4 lights under the pf that were on and even those few were dim and flakey. I checked the plugs on the board and the related transients to the rows and columns and everything was fine. So I started looking at the LEDs and found that they were melted just like the ones I had in funhouse.

Common denomintor: the Rottendog MPU089. Before anyone says they are crap boards, I get it, but that’s what was available to me and I have had good luck with other rottendog products. Let’s try to just troubleshoot this instead of bashing the boards. There has to be a fix or logical explanation for why this board is melting LEDs. I’ve had rottendog mpus in other wpc games without any issues. I’m pretty sure this is a specific board problem.

#2 1 year ago

Have you spoken with RD? I know that would be my first move. This is not normal in any sense of the word. Not only that but I have never heard of such an issue. Crazy Man!

#3 1 year ago

I emailed but I doubt I will get a response till next week sometime

#4 1 year ago

Did you ever have the opportunity to check for voltage spikes or high voltages on the lines.
-Mime

#5 1 year ago

No. I figured nothing would have been correct since they have all been in different locTions when the issues occurred

#6 1 year ago

Just going off 2 different games, with the same issues and using the same board, there has to be something going on with that board

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Just going off 2 different games, with the same issues and using the same board, there has to be something going on with that board

I agree 100% but how?
The mpu would have to somehow be allowing too much voltage into the lights. So I wonder if you could get one of those fancy multimeters that has memory and records it's highest reading, then play for a while or let sit in burn in mode or both and see if you get a spike. High voltage is obviously coming onto the lights.
-Mike

#8 1 year ago

That’s where I’m lost. I had funhouse on location after the first incident and only had one other issue with the game since then that I’m not sure was 100% related. I had the mpu in bride for one day and had these same issues.

-4
#9 1 year ago

This is a great example of why you should not use aftermarket modifications such as LED's or supposed "improved" boardsets. Think aboot if a home or business was affected by a machine fire.

#10 1 year ago

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately that’s not helping fix this issue just in case anyone else ever has the same problem in the future.

#11 1 year ago

Those boards are fairly cheap, why not just swap another one in and problem solved? That way you don't have to wait for RD to get back to you and waste all of your time - and you're right, their responses are very hit and miss.

#12 1 year ago

I have a RD board in my bride also for a couple years or so. Never had an issue with it

#13 1 year ago

I had an issue with a T2 with an original boardset a while back. LEDs were melting, and solenoid fuses were blowing occasionally. There didn't seem to be anything in common as to which LEDs melted, since they were on different rows & columns in the lamp matrix. Then unexpectedly, the DMD glass cracked. Then I rebuilt the DMD board and replaced the DMD, and no more melted LEDs. It's been almost a year since then, and the melting LED issue hasn't resurfaced.

I still don't quite understand if/how the two things were related, or if it was just coincidence. But for what it's worth, there's another avenue to possibly investigate.

#14 1 year ago

The feature lamps work by strobing 18v quickly to get average around 6v. If the 18v is locked on a lamp would look really bright and an LED may burn up. I suppose the MPU could be at fault, but it could be something on the power driver board or even the LEDs themselves.

Your other thread shows another possible common denominator... budget LEDs with a current limiting resistor value to achieve max brightness at the sake of longevity. Maybe a bad batch of LEDs so maybe trying a higher quality SMT style LED. The SMT ones are so much better quality that its worth it.

#15 1 year ago

I’ve used comet 2835s exclusivly in all my games and never had an ounce of issues. These bulbs were mostly likely from different batches being these Games LEDs were installed a couple years apart. Bride has had no issues at all, being on location or at home. I didn’t have these problems till I put the board in from funhouse that gave me the same issues.

Is there somewhere in the mpu that controls the 18v?

#16 1 year ago

Are you using the same asic chip between boards?

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I’ve used comet 2835s exclusivly in all my games and never had an ounce of issues. These bulbs were mostly likely from different batches being these Games LEDs were installed a couple years apart. Bride has had no issues at all, being on location or at home. I didn’t have these problems till I put the board in from funhouse that gave me the same issues.
Is there somewhere in the mpu that controls the 18v?

The ASIC on the MPU tells the driver board to read the CPU data bits to use those to update the lamps. The rest of the lamp driving is done on the power driver board.

For MPU to be a problem it would have to be telling the driver board to leave on the lamps and not strobe them rapidly. Make sure no pins on the asic got damaged when you moved it over to the new board.

Best I can tell the Rdog MPU is pretty faithful to the original WMS design electrically so I don't think it would be a design of the replacement board issue.

#18 1 year ago

The ASIC is the one that came with the RD board.

#19 1 year ago

Heard from RD today. They recommended the asic chip and/or 68B09E.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Heard from RD today. They recommended the asic chip and/or 68B09E.

I was a tester for Jim and his boards for several years. He was always good in helping troubleshoot. I hope his suggestions fix your issue.

#21 1 year ago

Another update: sending the board back to RD. They want to look at it. Hopefully they figure something out. So far their customer service has been great!

1 month later
#22 1 year ago

Update: rottendog swapped out the board with a new one. They couldn’t find any issue with the old one. The only down fall I do see though is that they reused the ASIC chip and other chips from the old board. I haven’t had time to test out the new bord really but hopefully it will go back out in location here in the next few days.

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