(Topic ID: 245462)

Rollergames - Various issues + Fuse listing errata?

By djodars

4 years ago



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AuxiliaryPowerDriverBoardPage44 (resized).png

#1 4 years ago

Hi fellow pinheads,

I bought my first pinball machine a few weeks ago ( Rollergames ) and I've been struggling with a few issues.

When we played the first game, I found out that the Knocker (07A), Upper kickback (13), Lock Kickback (14), Ramp Diverter (18) and Outlane kickback (20) weren't working.

I read a few tips on system11 and busted out the DMM. The Outlane kickback (20) was only reading 1.4v at both lugs even in diagnostic mode, so it made sense that it wasn't working properly.

I checked all the fuses on and they all beeped but I found out some of them were way higher in amperage than they should be so I replaced them with what is listed in the manual. Still not working but wasn't surprised. Then I found out there was a hidden fuse below the playfield (2 1/2A) that was blown. I replaced that one and now the Outlane kickback (20) worked but was stuck open. Also, the flippers were super weak. Then I saw that the F7 fuse on the auxiliary board had blown. Replaced it and now the 3 bank target (WAR) doesn't reset, the ball popper doesn't work and all the other problems that I had before stayed too.

Today I was reading the manual and there seems to be an error somewhere regarding the correct fuses to use.

Could it just be my problem all along was the blown fuse and since I replaced the (2-F4 and 2-F7) 7A for a 21/2A and 4A respectively that it doesn't have enough power to work properly?

Thanks for your help!
AuxiliaryPowerDriverBoardPage44 (resized).pngAuxiliaryPowerDriverBoardPage44 (resized).pngFuseListingPage40 (resized).pngFuseListingPage40 (resized).png

#2 4 years ago

OK so I tried to continue diagnosing the issue today:

I replaced the Aux. F4 and F7 fuses with 7A fuses again and put a new 2.5A under the playfield because it was blown.
Powered the game on, ran the solenoids diagnostics and the 13, 14, 18 were now working. As soon as the test got to 20 (Outlane Kickback) though, it did not fire and when it circled around, 13, 14 and 18 weren't working anymore. Looked at the fuse under the playfield and sure enough, it had blown.

- Checked the diode and the transistor on the high current driver assembly, everything was reading fine.
- Checked the diodes on the Aux. board as well as the transistors, everything reads fine.
- Same thing with the CPU board transistors, none of them "beeped" as shorted...
- Removed and resoldered the Upper Kickback (13) as I thought the diode could be bad. (Is there even supposed to be a diode on this coil? I don't see this anywhere in the schematics)

Anyway, so I think the issue must be with the Outlane Kickback now but... what could make the fuse(s) blow? (Either Aux. F4 or under the playfield, both are related to the same solenoids I think)
Is it normally a bad component somewhere (diode, transistor, other?)

#3 4 years ago

It's a while since I had Rollergames (which is a great pin btw)

I would take the outlane kicker out of circuit, replace the fuse and see if it blows. If not you know this is the problem area and can then concentrate on the components related to it.

1 week later
#4 4 years ago

I'm back!

I unscrewed and replaced the fuse holder that is located below the playfield, clipped the old quick-disconnect terminals and crimped some new ones.
This fuse holder is now visible and allowed me to easily found the issue. I put a new fuse in and ran the coil diagnostics. As soon as it hit the Ramp Diverter (18) coil, the fuse blew.

So I removed the plastic in the back and the coil looks totally toasted. I clipped one of the wire and put some electrical tape at the end of it.
I put a new fuse in and everything else is now in working order!

So now...

1. This coil is NOT easily accessible. Looks like I'll have to take the playfield out to replace it. Does anyone know of an "easy" method to do so?
I do not have a rotisserie and would love to be able to avoid building one just for this.

2. While running the diagnostics previously, I also saw that the left flipper was sometimes twitching when other coils were firing. Is that normal?

1 week later
#5 4 years ago

If you are talking about removing the upper left coil for the ramp diverter, you may need to remove the diverter bar and remove plunger first in order to get the coil out. Which coil are you using? Make sure to use the updated one, which I believe is the 12-2600, but double check first. Definitely remove or partially remove the WAR sign and you may want to remove the flasher caps as well to give yourself more room to work, youll need it.
There are 2 small clip rings that need to be removed to get the diverter bar off, and then you lift the bar off the nub seats. At this point, you should be able to figure out how to get the coil out. 4 screws i think. You're not kidding, it's a tight fit working back there. There are times when I was able to work on it when flat, but sometimes I had to prop up the playfield to access some parts with that diverter area. I'm having some strange issues with mine after putting in a new diverter bar, I have a feeling the plunger is not long enough because I left out a spring between plunger and diverter, so it gives a buzzing noise, which I'm sure is not normal. Any help or photos you can provide would be helpful! Good Luck!

#6 4 years ago

Replacing the cooked coil has to be done of course - finding out why it did that is the next step. You don’t want to have to replace a pain in the ass location coil twice!

A Shorted drive / pre-drive transistor i would want to test next. Look up which transistor is associated with this coil and even just have a look at the mpu and see if it has been replaced already. If it had then you pay have to paddle even further upstream to find your issue. When testing any diode be sure to remove one leg from circuit, otherwise you may not be testing just that component.

Good luck - it won’t be over the top too difficult to repair this. Pinside is great for drama but also for tech help and will help you along the way.

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