(Topic ID: 101198)

Rollergames playfield lights all stopped working - Please help a noob! Williams

By pinheadpurdy

9 years ago

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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Hawk007
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 9 years ago

Hi, I got my first pin a few weeks ago and have been experiencing growing pains! It's had intermittent startup trouble - often it triggers the cabinet knocker and rarely it completely fills the score display fully. A couple times it has blown fuses for the flippers and poppers. I upgraded the Aux Power Board, but didn't seem to fix anything.

Now it has shut down the main phase of all the playfield lights. It seems to have a sub-circuit for accent flashes and that still works, but during idle and gameplay, the majority of bulbs do not light (figure-8, 'SKATE', WAR, 123, JET, jetways, ABC, pit lamps, WILLIAMS letters). Some of the bare bulbs, the jet bumper lights and the seven big red lights at the top still work. I have checked all the fuses with a multi meter and they check out OK. Any advice out there? Thanks!


#2 9 years ago

Start with checking all your connections on the MPU and lamp driver boards, you'll no doubt find some dull, oxidized pins and connectors.

#3 9 years ago

Check all connectors first but more than likely you have a power supply problem. Check for power and make sure it is within specs. Sounds like a blown BR. Also check all fuses and make sure they are good with a dmm out of the game and the right value.

#4 9 years ago

Thanks, I did some further fuse checking and it seems that all the fuses on the main power board are giving fluctuating readings. Could main pwr brd fuses cause this problem?

#5 9 years ago

Hawk, what is "BR"? I am just checking for continuity on the fuses - is there a different setting I should be using?

#6 9 years ago

"BR" stands for bridge rectifier. To check for continuity of fuses, it's easiest to set your meter to 'beep' or the speaker setting between 200 and the diode setting. (->+)

#7 9 years ago

There's a fuse mounted to the right side of the backbox. Is it blown? Bottom right corner of the head.

#8 9 years ago

Hi guys, thanks for getting back to me. Wolf - I'm definitely getting inconsistent beeps on several fuses on the main pwr brd - the fuses on the other boards give a healthy constant beep.

John - I had only done visual inspection on that separate fuse - I went to pull it to check it properly and it fell apart. Looks like I need to replace all these old fuses!!

While I've got you awesome dudes - I noticed some soot-like buildup under one of the flipper coils - could this be the cause of the flipper fuses blowing?

Also, I need to replace the 'extra ball' micro-switch and I have the part. I assume I need to solder the little resistor doo-dad back onto the new switch? Does the wiring look right on the micro-switch?DSCN3014.JPGDSCN3014.JPGDSCN3013.JPGDSCN3013.JPG

#9 9 years ago

The 'soot' under the flipper solenoid is probably carbon dust, the common dirt found around most solenoids that create problems as it finds it's way into mechanical operations. (linkage, bushings,sleeves & plungers, etc.)
The resister 'doo-dad' is actually a diode, yes it needs to be there. Make sure you get it placed the proper way when soldering. (note the band on one end)
I can't verify the wiring though, the pic isn't quite clear enough on my screen.

#10 9 years ago

when you are using your meter to check the fuses, are you pulling them all the way out? Pull them all the way out and set you meter to what looks like a volume setting, to the right of 200 on your meter. Your meter should beep or buzz if the fuse is not blown when you touch the leads to either end.

If you do it while they are still in the holder you could get a false reading.

#11 9 years ago

Thanks guys! This info should certainly get me going in the right direction. Steve - at first I didn't pull the fuses and got false readings, then I did pull the fuses and several of them from the main pwr brd are fluctuating continuity (the beep cuts in and out). Seems weird - I would think that they are either blown or not, but I will assume they are faulty and replace them when I get more fuses. THANKS!! Pinsiders rule!

#12 9 years ago

Clean both ends of the fuse with a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper. May just be getting a poor connection.

#13 9 years ago

If a poor connection is the case, clean the fuse holder clips also, although they really should be replaced if it's a bad connection - that means they are weak and will pose more problems later.

If you're sure of good contact when checking the fuses and they are cutting in and out on the meter, just replace them.

#14 9 years ago

Good advice from several sources here!
Does the MPU board exhibit alkaline corrosion damage? System 11 games suffer heavily when such damage is present.

Here's a pic of a System 11 board with alkaline damage that has leached under the solder mask. The darker colored parts of traces are alkaline damage. Eventually, this will eat completely through the trace, severing connectivity.


Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#15 9 years ago

Fuses are either bad or good..not both... You MUST remove to test. Sorry I could not answer you earlier... I was outside in the yard doing chores making the lady happy lol. And yes as mentioned BR is bridge rectifier. The backbox fuse is probably the one thats gone along with its associated BR.
Test that fuse and let me know what you find.
And as Chris mentioned...Any corrosion or signs of any prior work at all? Maybe post a picture of your mainboard for all to glance at for you. Make sure it is a large file so we gets lots of detail.
Cheers and good luck. These are fun to fix and have such a reward as you get to PLAY!!!!

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