Pictures only tell so much of the story, especially when corrosion is involved.
Here's how I'd proceed
To truly neutralize corrosion, you can't just do a vinegar/water bath and hope for the best. It gets under stuff and hides, and just when you stop looking, it comes back, like rust on a car.
Any board is repairable, even if it's got a silver dollar sized hole burnt in it. The question becomes, is it *economically* repairable.
So, I'd go 1 of 2 ways
#1) Buy a repro board, or a good used clean board, stick it in the game, move on. Stick the old one on eBay and get $40-50 for it. There's no reason to spend big bucks on a Rottendog board in that game. That's a players game, and your goal, IMO, is to get it going as best as you can, for the best price you can get it going for.
#2) Neutralize the board with one of the common methods people do in pinball, see how much labor it takes to get it working 100%, and then take a couple cans of clear acrylic paint and clearcoat both sides of the board
#2 will buy you some time, assuming you can get it working without stripping half the dang board. The clearcoating will keep oxygen from getting to the alkaline, theoretically, and that might slow or even stop the erosion