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(Topic ID: 104328)

Rollergames PCB: Clean, Repair, or Repro


By nerdygrrl

6 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by nerdygrrl
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#1 6 years ago

I picked up a Rollergames this week that had been sitting for quite sometime (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-monday-pickup-250-rollergames). Unfortunately the previous owner had not removed the batteries and they of course puked all over the PCB. At first glance I thought I got away fairly clean, but upon closer inspection it looks like 1/2 of the components on the board have been effected. Most of the solder joints and legs are fuzzy and some of the foil has come up.

I guess I am looking for opinions on how to proceed. Should I neutralize and take a fiberglass pen to everything, send it out for repair, or go repro?

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#2 6 years ago

That one sand cap is crazy, like the statue of liberty melted into it!

I know it looks bad, but I've seen and repaired worse. Buzz out a few traces and see if you get continuity easily. If not, it may not be worth your time or anyone's for that matter.

#3 6 years ago

Pictures only tell so much of the story, especially when corrosion is involved.

Here's how I'd proceed

To truly neutralize corrosion, you can't just do a vinegar/water bath and hope for the best. It gets under stuff and hides, and just when you stop looking, it comes back, like rust on a car.

Any board is repairable, even if it's got a silver dollar sized hole burnt in it. The question becomes, is it *economically* repairable.

So, I'd go 1 of 2 ways

#1) Buy a repro board, or a good used clean board, stick it in the game, move on. Stick the old one on eBay and get $40-50 for it. There's no reason to spend big bucks on a Rottendog board in that game. That's a players game, and your goal, IMO, is to get it going as best as you can, for the best price you can get it going for.

#2) Neutralize the board with one of the common methods people do in pinball, see how much labor it takes to get it working 100%, and then take a couple cans of clear acrylic paint and clearcoat both sides of the board

#2 will buy you some time, assuming you can get it working without stripping half the dang board. The clearcoating will keep oxygen from getting to the alkaline, theoretically, and that might slow or even stop the erosion

#4 6 years ago

Thanks for the input guys. I may just look for a good clean 11C board. $300 for a repro wouldn't be too bad, but I don't know what else is going to be needed so I am a little hesitant about dropping that kind of cash w/o knowing what else lurks.

#5 6 years ago

Any sys11 board will work. Don't pass up a deal on any flavor of sys11!

#6 6 years ago

I have all Repro boards in mine...Pinscore LED display $200, new power supply from pinscore $80 (no high voltage), new interconnect board $100...new MPU (no batteries at all) $300...if you spent $250 on the game you will be in it for under $1000 and have a bulletproof Rollergames....Which you will want...since you are never getting rid of it.

Such a great game.

And sorry to 1-up you, but I got mine for free. I knew someone that had one in the living room for years kinda working. He was moving and said if you are willing to drag it out then it is yours. Gladly took it.

I also recommend LED's...

#7 6 years ago

I posted somewhere else but I also recommend doing a right upper flipper rebuild...that needs to be in tip-top shape if you want it playing well.

#8 6 years ago

Thanks for all of the advice. I love projects, they just don't love my wallet. By the time I get this up and running I will more than likely be in the standard RG price range. I'm just glad that at least it's out of the garage and on its way to running again.

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