(Topic ID: 330014)

Rollergames keep blowing right flipper fuse

By FunhouseRudy

2 days ago



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  • 6 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PINTEC
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#1 2 days ago

I have a Williams Rollergames and it keeps blowing fuse F5 on the auxiliary power/driver board (the fuse for the right flippers). When it blows, it is incredibly inconsistent (some times the flipper is being held, sometimes mid ball, sometimes at the beginning of a ball). First time it happened was after about 200 games. Then again after another 100 and then another 100. Now it's blowing them about every 10-30 games. Every time it blew, I would check over the flipper mechs and replace the 2a slow blow fuse (which is what the manual calls for). Every thing always seems to be fine

The game had its high current driver board blow and needed replaced. I also replaced the power supply and the auxiliary power/driver board. I recently rebuilt the flippers thinking it may be a coil or end of stroke issue but again, it popped after about 40 games.

Both right coils have diodes that test fine and resistance values look good (one is reading 3 ohms higher than it should on the secondary but I don't know if that would do it)

End of stroke switches and caps are brand new and functioning normally

I just don't know what else to check at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks!

#2 2 days ago

Many fuses sold as "slow blow" today do not exactly match the slow blow criteria. Since you checked the coils and EOS switch, and the fuse only blows every 10-30 games, I would replace the fuse with 3 or 4 amp slow blow. It will still protect against shorts or stuck closed EOS switch. But anyway, to make sure your EOS is OK, check that the fuse does not blow while holding the flipper up for extended time (half a minute maybe).

#3 1 day ago
Quoted from Tuukka:

Many fuses sold as "slow blow" today do not exactly match the slow blow criteria. Since you checked the coils and EOS switch, and the fuse only blows every 10-30 games, I would replace the fuse with 3 or 4 amp slow blow. It will still protect against shorts or stuck closed EOS switch. But anyway, to make sure your EOS is OK, check that the fuse does not blow while holding the flipper up for extended time (half a minute maybe).

I tried a 3 and 4 amp slow blow recently. The 3 amp blew just like the 2 amp ones and the 4 was going well until about the 7th game when something got hot inside the backbox and started to smell. The smell was definitely coming from the backbox and seemed to be coming from the new driver board. Nothing was smoking and everything seemed visually OK. The 4 amp fuse never popped. The game was still running fine but was shut off when the smell occurred. I've never timed holding the flipper. Maybe I'll pop a 2 amp and test each coil individually for 30 seconds like you suggested and try again

#4 1 day ago

Next time you smell something, touch the connectors and see if any are excessively hot. A suspect in this type of situation is the interconnect board, the pins are always burnt and sometimes there's hacks on the connectors.

The only other thing the flippers run through is the flipper relay. Your flippers' coils haven't been changed to a series wound have they? Also might be worth replacing the diodes on them too.

#5 1 day ago
Quoted from slochar:

Next time you smell something, touch the connectors and see if any are excessively hot. A suspect in this type of situation is the interconnect board, the pins are always burnt and sometimes there's hacks on the connectors.
The only other thing the flippers run through is the flipper relay. Your flippers' coils haven't been changed to a series wound have they? Also might be worth replacing the diodes on them

Next time you smell something, touch the connectors and see if any are excessively hot. A suspect in this type of situation is the interconnect board, the pins are always burnt and sometimes there's hacks on the connectors.
The only other thing the flippers run through is the flipper relay. Your flippers' coils haven't been changed to a series wound have they? Also might be worth replacing the diodes on them too.

I did feel around the board after I shut it off, (sorry, I forgot to mention that) the relay was pretty warm. The heat sinks on the bridge rectifiers were also warm but I figured that would be somewhat typical. The connectors felt fine. I believe I felt the 2 connectors on the interconnect board and they also felt cool but it sounds like it may be worth pulling the interconnect board out and checking that out as well. I am still very new to pinball repair and i really appreciate the help. Before Rollergames, I've never really dealt with anything like this on other pins I've owned

#6 1 day ago

End of stroke switches and caps are brand new and functioning normally
I just don't know what else to check at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks!

Check that the EOS switch gap is present

Manually move each flipper to the end of stroke and confirm gap.

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