Just pulled my 3 bank drop target on my rollergames. I need to go through the assembly and clean it, etc. Anyone seen silicone like this on a board and possible reason for it. The targets currently are only resetting at the end of a ball, not when the third one drops.

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Upon further inspection, it looks like you might be right. I just emailed Great Lakes Modular to see if their replacement version will work. I can't seem to cross reference my exact part number online.

Ordered a replacement from Great Lakes Modular. I'll report once it's installed.

Well, the new board hasn't fixed my issue. I didn't do a switch test before (which I should have), but now doing a switch test, the 3 bank drops are a fault, which is probably the same as before. The coil for the drops works fine in the coil test, but when powering up the pin, the drop coil energizes about 7 times then stops. When you knock down the third drop target they don't reset. They only reset when you start a new ball. I have reseated the connectors at the board was well as at the backbox interconnect. Next logical choice for a direction?

I do have a multimeter. I can check voltage. As far as sound and scoring, I just checked and when knocking them down they don't make any noise or produce a score.

I just used the jumper from 1J8 pin 8 to 1J10-9, -8, -7. With the game in play mode, it does react like it should by triggering pins J10 -9, 8, 7 Etc. Manually hitting W, hitting A, hitting R and then they reset. I also just checked continuity with all wires going from J1 to 1J10 and 1J8, and all had continuity. Issue somewhere between DT board and J1? I don't see any corrosion or discoloration on the connectors or the boards. But I have not removed any boards to look on the flip side.

I don't have a spare IDC connector to switch out and try. I have checked continuity between the board and J1 with no issues. I have just pulled the CPU and the backbox interconnect board. Backs of both look fine with no oxidation, loose pins, etc. The only spot on the interconnect board was at the J6 input which has been resoldered on the back (picture attached).

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Thanks to both of you for your knowledge. Out of town tomorrow into Friday. I will do some more searching when I'm back and report with an update.

Haven't left yet so I just checked for power at the DT. I have 11.8V at J2-1 and J2-3. I had also confirmed continuity from J8 pin 8 to the DT board. I took a couple of pictures off topic of the interconnect wiring coming over the front of the interconnect. One definitely powers the backbox lighting. The other goes in the cabinet. I'll do some more digging once I'm back. Thanks again.

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So far, everything seems to have checked out. Power at DT is up on the board itself so it is going through the connector. I have checked the back of the CPU to confirm signal is getting through 1J8 IDC all the way with continuity from the DT board. I have continuity on all spots that have been mentioned, including the row. Locally, I found an IDC connector (13 pin, not 9, but nothing gets in the way) that I have rewired at the 1J8 location. But I still have the same issue. I didn't mention initially, because I figured no correlation, but I have three other errors in switch test which are ball trough 1, 2, and 3. Looking through the matrix, they run through 1J8-2. Again, I have checked continuity with those wires and they work. I have not noticed that these switches haven't worked properly.

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I completely unplugged the drop targets at the board so I could play a few games tonight. Obviously the coil gets a signal from another direction, because the drop targets reset at the end of a ball, and at the beginning of a game. If only they would register. Ahhh, the search continues.............

Thank you. When I have a chance to get back into trouble shooting, I will let you know what I find.

Well, I'm not sure if this is good or bad. I do have continuity from the J8-8 back of IDC to R139, as well as all the way from R139 to the drop targets.

I don't know if this has any relation to my switch problems, but my CPU diagnostic LED2 is blinking very fast. Too fast to be able to read any sort of code from it. Tonight, I also redid the jumper scenario in Switch Mode (IJ8 pins to the IJ10 pins using the matrix diagram). The display registered the WAR targets with sound, and I also did the ball trough switches as well which registered with sound.

All those check out with continuity. As well as J1-3 at DT board to resistor SR9-6 and J1-1 at DT board to SR9-4.

In a large nutshell. "WAR" lights come on at the start of a game and drop targets will reset at the end of a ball or when restarting a game. But don't register individually, or reset once all three knocked down. I was reading on Pinwiki about possible causes and it was mentioned about failed column drive transistors (Q42 through Q49). Should I test those somehow or with the continuity I have, they should be working? I appreciate your continued following and suggestions with this issue. I hope to continuing learning and be able to assist others in time.

Well...............I finally figured out my issue. I feel stupid on one hand, but happy on the other. I had installed the opto board facing in the wrong direction. The opto's weren't reading what they needed to read. To my credit, I originally pulled the drop targets and opto board because they did not register or work properly. So I believe it was installed incorrectly prior to me purchasing the machine. Thanks to all who assisted in this journey. A special thanks to Maestro for going the extra mile with troubleshooting possibilities.

My bad on that one. I did not take a picture of the board installation because I obviously wasn't thinking about what the optos actually do. Someone had mentioned to me about cleaning optos, and that's when I realized my optos on the board were new and maybe not installed correctly. I should know from numerous other "things" over the years. Look at the most basic, simplest possibility before delving in up to your shoulder. I'll be better in the future to take every conceivable photo to assist either myself or someone else.

I had noticed the same thing when I went back to that photo. So the board was bad and the replacement worked once I put it in properly. And yes we are only human.

Thanks Maestro. I appreciate the time you took to go through a ton of troubleshooting. Even if it was my bad, I have learned quite a bit in the process.