RollerCoaster Tycoon
Stern, 2002Quoted from JPKnapp:This is probably it. I do tend to hold the flipper up a lot. So the flipper would have worked, but just got burnt out because the coil kept going trying to "open" the flipper? And the remedy is a new coil and getting those EOS wires connected to the right spot?
Could be the fix. The next question then becomes, why were the wires cut off of the Eos switch by someone previously?? Ahhhh the joys of buying a used pinball 
I just bought a RCT and the small led display displays words fine but the digits aren't defined,you can make out some parts of the numbers, yet in the test mode the display checks out, any help would be appreciated.
IMG_0869 (resized).JPGIMG_1498 (resized).JPGIMG_4077 (resized).JPGIMG_8223 (resized).JPGCan anyone tell me if Gottlieb A19508 would be a suitable replacement for stern 515-6916-01? It’s the coil to trip the drop target bank.
Quoted from JPKnapp:Has anyone put LEDs in theirs and can you share a specific list of colors and bulb types that go into this game? It's my first do-it-myself attempt. Baby steps I know.
A number of companies like Cointaker have kits available. 
Quoted from jaytrem:Looks like the wires were removed from your EOS switch (the switch on the flipper assembly). Might have burnt up your coil if you've been holding the flipper up.
Even with the wires removed from the Eos switch, the coil will not burn.
Quoted from JPKnapp:Has anyone replaced or somehow modified the back glass lighting? That single fluorescent bulb is awful. I'm thinking an LED strip, but I dont know how I'd power it. Any thoughts?
You can bypass the fluorescent ballast and install an LED tube that runs off of straight 120v. I did it on my RBION. Its been a while and I don't remember exactly what I did, but if you do a search in the threads, it has been documented. I mainly did it to get rid of the awful ballast hum.
Quoted from HighVoltage:I know these are often broken, but on the RCT I picked up, this is completely missing. Anyone have an extra Eat/Info plastic, or can send me a scan so I can make one?
Pinball Center sells them. Not sure if they ship to the US though. So if you have a friend in Canada....
I'll scan mine later today. It's in 2 pieces, I'll glue it first.
Eat plastic scan is here...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j5eYMi_-ENWb5o_9L2Il59fpT7bos1hF/view?usp=sharing
Another new owner here... and like many others, looking for a replacement left plastic ramp, as mine is well and truely beaten 
Quoted from toibs:Another new owner here... and like many others, looking for a replacement left plastic ramp, as mine is well and truely beaten
Not sure you'll find one. Better set your sights on a repair of the old one in the meantime. Unfortunately.
Quoted from StavrosMilos:Can anyone tell me if Gottlieb A19508 would be a suitable replacement for stern 515-6916-01? It’s the coil to trip the drop target bank.
just for anyone’s benefit, yes. It works just fine but you have to wire it backwards because the diode is flipped.
Before doing this however, check the transistors, otherwise or it may also go up in flames.
Quoted from McSquid:My RCT won Best in Play: Modern (2000-present) at the Pintastic show in Sturbridge! I thought you guys might appreciate the topper I built. A functional model rollercoaster activated by the rocket shot. Here is a quick video my friend took:
[quoted image]
Thats a great mod. Good job, how did you get it to activate with rocket?
If you have some insight i'd love to try and mod mine as well
FYI, just posted my new RollerCoaster Tycoon roller coaster mod for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109934
RCT1 (resized).jpgRCT2 (resized).jpgRCT3 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:FYI, just posted my new RollerCoaster Tycoon roller coaster mod for sale:
I have what I believe is the first prototype RCT model coaster. It looks great!! Perfectly marches the backglass and slingshot art.
You just have to be a bit creative with the mounting. I used two star posts to support a piece of lexan. Be sure to shape the corners of the lexan so it doesn't interfere with the habitrails. Then I used some 3M mounting tape to secure the model to the lexan. It's a very rigid setup that can easily be removed if ever desired.
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OK, I am late to the party, but I just found a nice HOU machine, now 'in-transit' to me in the SF bay area. I look forward to diving in...
Out of nowhere I find the pictured post sitting in the right Outlane area near the play field insert with “special” marked on it. It appears to be 2-1/4 inch long, no threaded hole at top. On the manual page 69, it’s the post #12 pictured at top, third from right.
I can’t find where it goes anywhere. Anyone recognize this post?
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from Pinballlew:Is it the pop up post near the A lane at the top left of play field? Normally flush with the play field connected to a solenoid to pop up and stop the ball.[quoted image]
Good guess as it appears to the same, but that one was intact. With a fresh night sleep, I looked again and I did just find it. It's the post on the right side of the right ramp staring me in the face! (the left side of the ramp has a yellow narrow stand-up target). Looks like an easy fix. Odd that it travelled so far on the playfield before I noticed it, unless it launched with a hard hit???!?!
All good.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Looks like an easy fix.
Also looks like a good time to put your hands on every post in the game. If one was so loose that it lost the nut on the bottom, others are loose. Just pinch them all and give them a shake back and forth. If you feel ANY movement, they need attention. The bonus is that a properly tight game plays much better, as you don't lose so much energy when you hit a post.
Quoted from DaveH:Also looks like a good time to put your hands on every post in the game. If one was so loose that it lost the nut on the bottom, others are loose. Just pinch them all and give them a shake back and forth. If you feel ANY movement, they need attention. The bonus is that a properly tight game plays much better, as you don't lose so much energy when you hit a post.
Its my weekend project...
I have to report that after a couple of weeks with this machine, it has really grown on me. Pat Lawlor/John Youssi team never dissappoints!
I have a question about sound. I noticed there is a minor but noticeable hum/buzz coming from the sound board. I have seen folks adjusting R106 and R110 on other Whitestars (like Monopoly), but haven't seen any reports on RCT. I also found Stern Bulletin Nr. 133 (which talks specifically about a design change related to quiet installations versus noisy arcades.) SB133 was written for Monopolofy and suggests changing two resistor values. I noticed that R106/R110 are 10K and 33K are ALREADY on the RCT schematic as those values and the bulletin suggests simply REPLACING the existing resistors to 10K and 33K respectively. Lowering those values regardless of pinball title has the effect of lowering the gain of the backbox & cabinet woofer respectively. My board already has the 10K/33K combination, so I am considering furthar lowering by adding another resistor in parrallel. (When connected in parrallel, 10K+10K yields a net value of 5K for R106, 33K+33K yields a net value of 16.5K for R110)
Question: Anyone dealt with this mod in RCT? Comments welcome.
Working on a RCT machine I got a few weeks ago. Seem to be having trouble with the three-target drop bank. For some reason the center target falls on its own a few seconds after it has been raised, regardless of any ball hitting it. I looked underneath and there is a tiny coil mounted right below the middle target. Not sure what that one does. Anyone have some experience with normal operation of this mechanism would be welcome.
Also, it looks like removal of the entire bank requires some switch connectors to be removed, and then the two coild to be un-soldered. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance...
Has anybody made a replacement "EAT" plastic yet? And a full plastic protector set that includes the EAT plastic protector?
Quoted from Markharris2000:Working on a RCT machine I got a few weeks ago. Seem to be having trouble with the three-target drop bank. For some reason the center target falls on its own a few seconds after it has been raised, regardless of any ball hitting it. I looked underneath and there is a tiny coil mounted right below the middle target. Not sure what that one does. Anyone have some experience with normal operation of this mechanism would be welcome.
Also, it looks like removal of the entire bank requires some switch connectors to be removed, and then the two coild to be un-soldered. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance...
The target is supposed to fall. It prevents a ball from getting trapped behind it. The center target only stays up in a couple modes.
Quoted from planters49:Has anybody made a replacement "EAT" plastic yet? And a full plastic protector set that includes the EAT plastic protector?
Pinball center overseas sells the EAT plastic, but they don't ship to the US. If you contact Pinsider Zitt, he is doing a group buy soon. You can get on the list to order that very plastic.
Quoted from planters49:Has anybody made a replacement "EAT" plastic yet? And a full plastic protector set that includes the EAT plastic protector?
Quoted from GLSP3022:Pinball center overseas sells the EAT plastic, but they don't ship to the US. If you contact Pinsider Zitt, he is doing a group buy soon. You can get on the list to order that very plastic.
They are out of stock on it right now as well. (But get on their waiting list as I think the number of waiting list people determines when they fund another run of repro plastics.)
Quoted from GLSP3022:The target is supposed to fall. It prevents a ball from getting trapped behind it. The center target only stays up in a couple modes.
ohhhhh, that would explain what I see! Thanks. ( I need to watch it in action a bit more to know what to expect ).
Quoted from Markharris2000:ohhhhh, that would explain what I see! Thanks. ( I need to watch it in action a bit more to know what to expect ).
It falls so you can make the shot around the loop to start a mode.
Quoted from GLSP3022:Pinball center overseas sells the EAT plastic, but they don't ship to the US. If you contact Pinsider Zitt, he is doing a group buy soon. You can get on the list to order that very plastic.
Shipping to Canada is also very cheap, I believe cheaper than what they charge to ship to Europe. Every one should have a friend in Canada!
Has anyone on this thread run across a source for a repro RIGHT RAMP on RCT? Mine could used to be replaced at some point. I put Cliffy's protector on it which covers the whole thing anyway, but I think the ramp itself would be great to swap. Let me know if you have seen it online anywhere.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Has anyone on this thread run across a source for a repro RIGHT RAMP on RCT? Mine could used to be replaced at some point. I put Cliffy's protector on it which covers the whole thing anyway, but I think the ramp itself would be great to swap. Let me know if you have seen it online anywhere.
Unobtanium. Nobody makes it, and none of the current ramp manufacturers want to do it because they wouldn't sell enough to make back the tooling costs.
Fortunately as you said, the Cliffy set can cover the damage in most cases. I found an NOS left ramp at a show once, but unfortunately that broke under it's own weight just sitting on a shelf in my garage. If you ever do find sets for sale, there have been a lot of requests here over the years.
Quoted from caseyj:How hard is it to swap the Display to a color display from the monochrome? Or is it even possible?
I just did it with both a PIN2DMD and a COLORDMD recently. Easy either way!!! Intially I tried the Pin2DMD to save some $$$, but the colorization file for RCT in the Pin2DMD approach has a few bugs. That said, the coloring for the ColorDMD is a bit lack-luster, but it doesnt have any bugs. Neither is 100% perfect but I ended up going with a ColorDMD and it looks great. Either way, takes 20 minutes to install. Fits right in place.
ColorDMD is $400, Pin2DMD is $200. Both are plug and play, both mechanically fit right in.
PM me for help if needed.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Just picked one up. Haven't even had time to set it up.
[quoted image]
Nice job. There is something kind of addictive about it... The soundtrack will be bouncing around your head after you play a few games. One note: You'll probably want to due the R106/R110 mod on the sound board as the amount of idle 'hum' is pretty noticeable on this whitestar. Just grab a couple of 5K-10K resistors and its a 5 minute solder in place.
Enjoy!!!
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I didn't read through the whole thread yet, but does anyone else have terrible with the ball getting stuck on the y next to the diverter on the left. When the diverter is down, if it's not moving fast enough, it just sits there
[quoted image]
Yep...install small washers between the plastic ramp and the metal wire ramp for ball clearance 
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Just picked one up. Haven't even had time to set it up.
[quoted image]
Five more things to consider:
1) cliffs sells a set of protectors for the right ramp. Not the surface protectors he is known for, but actual standup ramp shield sides for the right ramp entrance which is more than likely fairly damaged.
2) the two narrow standup yellow targets usually get crooked based on getting pounded on the sides. PBL sells a standup bracket replacement that essentially locks the target straight up.
3) Mr_Tantrum sells a set of custom 3D decals for all the targets which add a bit of cushion to the ball hits. Perfect compliment to the game theme.
4) colorDMD and Pin2dmd both offer color displays compatible with RCT.
5) if you get tired of the troll hair color, there are a bunch of other choices on eBay for $12 or so. It is a standard 3 inch troll by Russ, but has the arms bent inward with a heat gun.
Hey Guys, just became a member of the club! Picked a game that was in route it's whole life so it's a little rough. Seems much of the lighting has been updated, but seems to have some missing parts, broken plastics, and some PF wear. All in all, was a deal - so couldn't pass it up! Just ordered some protectors from Cliff. Would love any suggestions on things to check for! Plan on tearing down the playfield to do a deep clean and asses damage..
PXL_20210509_221116798 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221129511 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221131086 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221132951 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221134734 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221136899 (resized).jpgPXL_20210509_221141865 (resized).jpgHad the middle bumper coil melt and smoke up the machine Friday night. Happened to have a couple of Williams 26-1200 coils, so that was OK. Pulled the board and replaced the transitory with a mosfet. Went through a night of heavy play with no other problems.
It does occasionally hang on the back orbit. Can't see anything that would cause it, so I'm a bit mystified.
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Had the middle bumper coil melt and smoke up the machine Friday night. Happened to have a couple of Williams 26-1200 coils, so that was OK. Pulled the board and replaced the transitory with a mosfet. Went through a night of heavy play with no other problems.
It does occasionally hang on the back orbit. Can't see anything that would cause it, so I'm a bit mystified.
Where in the back orbit is it hanging? I have only seen it hang once on top of the up-post (due to mis-height alignment) and once on top of the post between A and B (replaced the post rings).
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Knoxville, TN