(Topic ID: 219714)

Roller Coaster Tycoon owners club. All are welcome.

By Scribbles

3 years ago


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  • 475 posts
  • 83 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by pinballlarry1
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders

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There are 475 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.
#451 34 days ago
Quoted from roboclan:

Has anybody done a backboard graphic what do you think of these for the back
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I am not aware of any available alternate translites, but would be curious what could be done and consider one.

#452 34 days ago

Not a translite but the board at the back of the Playfield its blue you know the typical stern background

#453 34 days ago
Quoted from roboclan:

Not a translite but the board at the back of the Playfield its blue you know the typical stern background

Ohhhhhh… hum. I never really thought about that. Mine is solid blue.

#454 33 days ago

Completed playfield cleaning today, began reassembly. There are a lot of parts to fit together, glad I took lots of pictures. Installed Cliffy protectors on the right ramp sides, turned out great. so far with no wire forms:100_5392 (resized).JPG
Right ramp was pretty beat up on both sides:100_5376 (resized).JPG
Right side of ramp, removed existing post, screw in new post with threads on top:100_5379 (resized).JPG100_5380 (resized).JPG
Had to unscrew the single drop target bracket to get the extra nylock nut on the underside threads, tight quarters, but very secure now:100_5381 (resized).JPG100_5382 (resized).JPG
Left side of ramp gets a taller wood screw post with top threads and a shaved down sleeve to fit in tight behind the new metal protector:100_5383 (resized).JPG
loosely assembled everything, marked holes on right ramp, CAREFULLY drilled them, came out good.100_5384 (resized).JPG
The right side upper hole was directly above an existing screw, since I had everything disassembled, I used a longer 6-32 screw to come up from below the plastic and be secured with a nylock nut, the left side upper is a wood screw directly into the plastic ramp.
Right side protector finished:100_5387 (resized).JPG
Left side protector finished:100_5388 (resized).JPG
looking up the ramp:100_5389 (resized).JPG
looking down the ramp from the backside:100_5390 (resized).JPG
Since my right ramp was horribly damaged, and replacements are non existent, the Cliffy package made sense to me. It looks great and should work perfect. It took me 2 solid hours to get the right ramp modified and back in place. Of course I needed 10 extra minutes and several choice words when I realized I forgot to install the rubber post sleeve on the right entrance. Had to take a short break to cool off!

#455 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Continued playfield cleanup on the left side, before:[quoted image] After:[quoted image]Before:[quoted image]After:[quoted image] Not quite done yet, but going thru a lot of Qtips and towels.
Installed the Cliffy shooter lane protector, perfect fit! Noticeable damage to the wood:[quoted image] installed:[quoted image][quoted image]
Next up, rebuilding the 4 flippers and figuring out what to do with the damaged ramps.

That's awesome! It looks fantastic. I wish I would have taken before pics.
I just rebuilt all my flippers. And i just changed the pop skirts. And once my cliffy for the right ramp arrives it should be 100%.
Here are a couple of pics of some more crap I added. Lol.

IMG_20210812_215025 (resized).jpgIMG_20210805_010622 (resized).jpgreceived_566233411173547 (resized).jpeg
#456 31 days ago

Erak, I do like your coaster car add on items, they fit the theme perfectly. Once I get my RCT properly functional, I will see about adding them also. I fired up the game last night, and it wants to play. However, there is trouble on the I/O driver board, looks like the 20 volt bridge rectifier is bad for starters. Going into the electronics next!

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2 weeks later
#457 18 days ago

The trouble is in the 20 volt low power solenoid wiring somewhere on the playfield. The I/O driver board operates fine as long as connector J7 is not connected. Previous board repairs were done by someone who can solder better than I.100_5605 (resized).JPG The burned/blown out hole is the thru hole where the AC power goes to BR2 to produce the 20 volt DC.100_5604 (resized).JPG The nice solid wire on the backside bypasses the burned path. 100_5601 (resized).JPG There was lots of black "electronic dirt" (proper name??) on the metal back panel, looks like dark shadows. 100_5600 (resized).JPG Cleaned right off easily, but the flamethrower burn is permanent!100_5598 (resized).JPG The proximity to the fluorescent lamp tube has affected the ribbon cables.100_5593 (resized).JPG Will inspect the low power coils and wiring back to J7 next.

#458 16 days ago

Found it! Bad diode on coil #25 left diverter.
The wiring on J6 and J7 is kind of convoluted. My 20 volt fuse would blow when J6 and J7 were both connected, but not when either was disconnected. That told me the problem was in a circuit that went thru both connectors. IO wiring J6 J7 (resized).jpg I figured it was a coil and not a flashlamp, so I started with J7 pin 1 brown power wire that goes to every 20 volt coil . Orange power wire on J6 pin 10 goes to only flash lamps. When I ohmed the coil wires from J7 wire 1 over to J6 wire 1,2 and 3, I found 2 ohms on wire #1 left diverter, 51 ohms on wire #2 right diverter, and 4 ohms on wire #4 dunk the dummy. The nice coil ohm chart in the manual told me that both diverter coils should be 51 ohms so 2 ohms on the left diverter is bad. Took the coil off the diverter assembly and there was the diode, squished under the coil, totally hidden and literally 1/2 gone.100_5621 (resized).JPG Snipped it out and now the coil reads 51 ohms. The diode casing actually melted into the plastic of the coil. 100_5622 (resized).JPG Will install a new diode and try it again.

#459 15 days ago

Update: fixed left diverter coil, 20 volt power is now good, all flashlamps and low power coils working! But, the single drop target broke off the bottom piece and now it sticks up above the playfield and can't drop down flush. More work tomorrow, it's 9:30pm and I am tired.

#460 13 days ago

Update: Fixed single drop target assembly with new target, working now. Had to replace Q25 on I/O driver board for left diverter, it was always on. Now the left diverter functions properly in test and in game play. I just wish my soldering skills were not deteriorating along with my eyesight as I age......
Played a few games, still working on minor issues. Does anyone know if the snack bar kick out is adjustable? Mine shoots the ball onto the playfield and it always hits the slingshot top post and goes off to the left. I assume it was intended to kick out directly to the right flipper. I tried loosening every screw associated with the under field parts but there is no movement available. Not seeing how to correct this.

#461 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

I just wish my soldering skills were not deteriorating along with my eyesight as I age......

I assume it was intended to kick out directly to the right flipper.

I hear that, either to close or to far depending on whether I have glasses on. Feel like I need to climb into the cab.

Mine kicks out to the right flipper about 90% of the time I'd say. Not sure if it's adjustable.

#462 10 days ago

Can anyone explain the "secret message" that shows up on the dmd after pushing the flipper buttons as 2L and 1R four times? I searched the internet for some reference but have come up with nothing. This is what my game shows:100_5686 (resized).JPGMust mean something to someone??? I added a custom message but that made no difference.

Played several games today, then without warning, the autofire solenoid started activating over and over. Turning the game off then on did not stop it. When a ball is fed to the shooter lane, the autofire does not activate. But when the ball is plunged and the shooter lane is clear, the autofire solenoid comes on 2 times per second. The game actually displayed a tech advisory that the autofire solenoid has failed. Quick check of switches and coils show them all registering and operating. Digging back into the game tomorrow!! Hoping to find correct all the glitches sooner rather than later, the grandkids have been waiting to play!

#463 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Can anyone explain the "secret message" that shows up on the dmd after pushing the flipper buttons as 2L and 1R four times? I searched the internet for some reference but have come up with nothing. This is what my game shows:[quoted image]Must mean something to someone??? I added a custom message but that made no difference.
Played several games today, then without warning, the autofire solenoid started activating over and over. Turning the game off then on did not stop it. When a ball is fed to the shooter lane, the autofire does not activate. But when the ball is plunged and the shooter lane is clear, the autofire solenoid comes on 2 times per second. The game actually displayed a tech advisory that the autofire solenoid has failed. Quick check of switches and coils show them all registering and operating. Digging back into the game tomorrow!! Hoping to find correct all the glitches sooner rather than later, the grandkids have been waiting to play!

First thing I would check would be the shooter lane switch in switch test.

#464 9 days ago

All good once again! Yes the shooter lane switch diode was broken on one leg, easy solder fix. Also found the "A" lane upper rollover switch diode leg broken, fixed also. Two ball traps also fixed. One under the yellow ramp on the left outlane, added a 1/8" plastic spacer to raise the ramp a bit. Second in the snack bar hole if the ball rolled back down the ramp for the skill shot, sometimes the ball would land just right to sit on top of the edge of the plastic subway and the left side of the playfield wood.100_5698 (resized).JPGIt actually landed here 3 times in just a few games.
Added a small self stick black rubber bumper on the side of the playfield hole, it seems to push the ball just enough to keep it from getting trapped. 100_5700 (resized).JPGWe shall see.
when I showed the granddaughters the "secret message" on the dmd, they said "that face is the Roller Coaster Tycoon guy"! Are they correct??

#465 9 days ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

All good once again! Yes the shooter lane switch diode was broken on one leg, easy solder fix. Also found the "A" lane upper rollover switch diode leg broken, fixed also. Two ball traps also fixed. One under the yellow ramp on the left outlane, added a 1/8" plastic spacer to raise the ramp a bit. Second in the snack bar hole if the ball rolled back down the ramp for the skill shot, sometimes the ball would land just right to sit on top of the edge of the plastic subway and the left side of the playfield wood.[quoted image]It actually landed here 3 times in just a few games.
Added a small self stick black rubber bumper on the side of the playfield hole, it seems to push the ball just enough to keep it from getting trapped. [quoted image]We shall see.
when I showed the granddaughters the "secret message" on the dmd, they said "that face is the Roller Coaster Tycoon guy"! Are they correct??

Check the installation of the plastic subway channel below the playfield. I just looked at mine and significantly less of the upper 'corner' on the left is visible from the top. There is no way for a ball to get stuck on mine. Perhaps your subway was replaced with an 'unusual' repro or the screws were put in at an angle causing your whole subway to be shifted towards the front of the playfield?

#466 8 days ago

Upon closer examination of the subway tunnel plastic, it can not move over or down. It is up against other parts and has no room to move. 100_5703 (resized).JPG A previous tech made this field expedient plastic piece that he screwed under the playfield to keep the ball from sitting in this area.100_5707 (resized).JPG 100_5708 (resized).JPGRealized I left it out when perusing the "before" pictures, I reinstalled it.100_5711 (resized).JPG
Ball trap is eliminated now. While I had the subway tunnel out, I also removed the stainless steel kicker housing. The coil and plunger are not off center and shoot the ball nicely. I was able to turn the entire assembly just a bit so the scoop aims toward the right flipper. Just enough movement to need new screw holes. After reassembly and game testing, the snack bar kickout still sends the ball into the right sling top post 99% of the time. Game is beginning to frustrate me so I will leave it be as is for a while!100_5712 (resized).JPG

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#467 8 days ago

And I just realized that the background sounds and music are malfunctioning. They can be heard very faintly in the speakers, but the main sounds and voices come out loud and clear. Tried volume level 15 max in adjustment menu, no change. ugh

#468 5 days ago

Hi folks!

Let me introduce myself, I'm Rick from Tasmania, Australia, only cam across this forum in the last 24 hours and what enjoyable reading it is

I purchased my first pin around October last year, and other than a burnt out coil, it has been playing perfect for me

Ohh, and of course my first pin is RCT

I have already been given inspiration from this thread and have ordered some new coloured LED's to replace the excessive white LED's in the pin, thankyou for that.....

I hope to learn more here from you all and I look forward to future chats with you all

#469 4 days ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

And I just realized that the background sounds and music are malfunctioning. They can be heard very faintly in the speakers, but the main sounds and voices come out loud and clear. Tried volume level 15 max in adjustment menu, no change. ugh

You need to change in adjustment #34 background music volume set to 01. It is reverse 1 is loudest. 15 is quitest. Then adjust the main volume.
At least that's how I had to set mine to not be ear piercing callouts and louder music.

#470 4 days ago
Quoted from erak:

You need to change in adjustment #34 background music volume set to 01. It is reverse 1 is loudest. 15 is quitest. Then adjust the main volume.
At least that's how I had to set mine to not be ear piercing callouts and louder music.

Or maybe that's just the callout volume.

#471 3 days ago

well shoot, that's what I get for not reading the details in the manual. thanks Erak, I put adjustment 34 back to 01 and all the wonderful sounds can be heard perfectly. Curiously, I played several game this morning, and the snack bar kickout is now shooting the ball directly at the right flipper. I didn't do anything so not sure why but I'm going to leave it alone!

#472 2 days ago

1st Question guys

I have been motivated to change out some of the white LED's in my RCT and came across a socket behind the "EAT" targets, without a globe in it, there are 2 sockets behind there, 1 is a #44/47 type globe socket and my empty socket is much larger......does this larger socket actually get used and if so, at what point in the game does it activate?

#473 2 days ago
Quoted from Ricbec:

1st Question guys
I have been motivated to change out some of the white LED's in my RCT and came across a socket behind the "EAT" targets, without a globe in it, there are 2 sockets behind there, 1 is a #44/47 type globe socket and my empty socket is much larger......does this larger socket actually get used and if so, at what point in the game does it activate?

That's a pretty important bulb! It is used to indicate that a ball is getting ready to kickout of the scoop. Anytime the ball goes under the playfield, that bulb will start to flicker a second or two before the scoop ejects it. You'll want to replace that bulb and see what you are missing! It's supposed to be a #89 incandescent bulb (not sure what an LED bulb would look like flashing as it does. LED may be too distracting)

#474 2 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

That's a pretty important bulb! It is used to indicate that a ball is getting ready to kickout of the scoop. Anytime the ball goes under the playfield, that bulb will start to flicker a second or two before the scoop ejects it. You'll want to replace that bulb and see what you are missing! It's supposed to be a #89 incandescent bulb (not sure what an LED bulb would look like flashing as it does. LED may be too distracting)

Thanks!.....I'll set about getting one in there

#475 2 days ago

I put an LED flasher in my snackbar area, it is covered by the EAT plastic so it does not offend my eyes. Very important to get the warning that the ball is coming quick. All LED's in my game and I love them

There are 475 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.

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